IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Raul Neal

•

This is such a helpful discussion! I'm actually dealing with a similar situation right now - filed my return two weeks ago and just discovered I missed claiming some charitable deductions that would save me about $800. Based on what everyone's shared here, it sounds like superseding is definitely the way to go since we're still before the deadline. The point about avoiding penalties and interest on additional taxes is huge, and I like that it becomes the "only" return rather than having two separate filings to track. One question though - for those who've done superseding returns, how do you handle the payment situation? If my original return showed I owed $2,000 but my corrected return shows I only owe $1,200, do I still need to pay the original $2,000 by April 15th, or can I just pay the corrected amount? I don't want to accidentally underpay and get hit with penalties. Also really appreciate the mentions of taxr.ai and Claimyr - I had no idea these services existed! Might have to check them out since I'm definitely not confident about doing this correctly on my own.

0 coins

Paloma Clark

•

Great question about the payment timing! Since you're filing a superseding return before the deadline, you only need to pay the amount shown on your corrected return ($1,200 in your case). The superseding return completely replaces the original, so the IRS will only see the corrected tax liability. Just make sure your superseding return is properly filed before April 15th and clearly marked as "SUPERSEDING RETURN" at the top. As long as it's filed on time, you'll avoid any underpayment issues since the IRS treats it as your original and only return. I'm new to this community but have been through a similar situation myself. The peace of mind from getting it right the first time (well, second time!) is definitely worth the extra effort of filing a superseding return.

0 coins

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation where I need to correct some 1099-INT reporting that I missed on my original e-filed return. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the importance of keeping good records when you supersede. My tax preparer recommended that I keep copies of both the original return AND the superseding return, along with a detailed note explaining what changed and why. This way if there are ever any questions down the road, I have a clear paper trail showing the corrections were made in good faith before the deadline. Also, for anyone considering the paper filing route for superseding returns - make sure to send it certified mail with return receipt. Given how important it is that the IRS receives and processes the superseding return before they process your original e-filed one, having proof of delivery and timing can be crucial if there are any processing delays or mix-ups. The deadline stress is real, but it sounds like superseding is definitely the right approach when you catch errors this close to April 15th!

0 coins

This is exactly the kind of documentation advice I needed to hear! I've been so focused on figuring out supersede vs amend that I hadn't even thought about the record-keeping aspect. The certified mail suggestion is brilliant - I can definitely see how proving delivery timing would be important if the IRS somehow processes things out of order. I'm planning to go the paper filing route for my superseding return since my tax software won't let me e-file it, so I'll definitely be sending it certified. Question for you - when you say keep detailed notes about what changed and why, do you mean just personal records or should I include some kind of explanation letter with the superseding return itself? I want to make sure I'm being as clear as possible about why I'm filing the correction.

0 coins

Eva St. Cyr

•

Has anyone dealt with this situation where you switch jobs mid-year? My first employer had a dependent care FSA (which I did use), and now my new job offers one too. Can I contribute to both in the same year or is there some annual limit across all employers?

0 coins

Aaron Boston

•

Great question! There's an annual limit that applies across all employers for Dependent Care FSAs. For 2023, that limit was $5,000 for single filers or married filing jointly ($2,500 if married filing separately). If you've already participated in a DCFSA at your previous employer this year, you need to count those contributions toward your annual limit at your new job. For example, if you contributed $2,000 at your old job, you can only contribute up to $3,000 at your new employer for the year. Make sure to inform your new employer's HR about your previous FSA contributions so they can adjust your maximum accordingly. If you accidentally exceed the annual limit, it can create tax complications.

0 coins

Camila Jordan

•

I went through almost the exact same situation last year! My employer contributed $2,800 to my dependent care FSA, I left in September, and never used a penny of it. I was panicking about my taxes too. Here's what I learned after talking to a tax professional: The Box 10 amount on your W-2 is NOT added to your taxable income, so it won't make you owe more taxes directly. It's just informational reporting. However, it does reduce the expenses you can claim for the dependent care credit. The silver lining is that with $15,000 in daycare expenses for two kids, you're still in great shape! You can claim the credit on $11,700 ($15,000 - $3,300), which is well under the $16,000 maximum for multiple children. Depending on your income, this could still be a substantial credit. I know it feels unfair - and honestly, it kind of is - but you're definitely not "screwed" tax-wise. The dependent care credit on your remaining eligible expenses should still provide meaningful tax savings. Don't let this phantom FSA money stress you out too much!

0 coins

Malik Johnson

•

This has been an absolutely incredible thread! As someone who just started a small general contracting business specializing in home renovations, I had no clue about the complexities of charitable donation tax implications. The education I've received here is invaluable. The key distinction between materials (deductible at cost basis with proper documentation) versus labor/services (not deductible as charity but still regular business expenses) is now crystal clear thanks to everyone's detailed explanations and real-world examples. What really stands out to me is how helpful this community has been in sharing actual audit experiences - especially @Mei Chen's story about the IRS being reasonable with smaller contractors who have good faith documentation. That takes a lot of the fear out of potentially being audited. I'm planning to do some renovation work for our local domestic violence shelter, and this thread has given me the complete roadmap: track materials separately from labor, keep detailed receipts, use Form 8283 for donations over $5,000, get proper acknowledgment letters from the organization, and stick to actual cost basis rather than trying to inflate values. The resources mentioned here (taxr.ai for documentation help and claimyr.com for IRS communication) are definitely going on my list to check out before starting the project. Thanks to @Raj Gupta for starting this discussion and to everyone who contributed their expertise. This thread should be required reading for any construction business owner considering charitable work!

0 coins

AstroExplorer

•

This thread has been absolutely fantastic for understanding construction charitable donations! I'm just starting out as a small contractor and had no idea about the complexity involved in properly documenting these tax situations. The key takeaway that materials are deductible at cost basis while labor is not deductible as charity (but still counts as business expenses) makes perfect sense now. I really appreciate everyone sharing their real audit experiences - it's reassuring to know the IRS is reasonable with smaller contractors who document things in good faith. I'm planning to help renovate our local food bank's storage facility and now I know exactly what I need to track: keep all material receipts separate, document labor hours for my records, prepare Form 8283 if materials exceed $5,000, and get a proper acknowledgment letter that clearly separates materials from services. The resources mentioned here like taxr.ai and claimyr.com sound incredibly useful for getting the documentation right and avoiding costly mistakes. As a newcomer to business taxes, having professional guidance on these complex situations seems worth the investment. Thanks to everyone who shared their knowledge and experiences - this community wisdom is exactly what small business owners need to do good work while staying compliant!

0 coins

Emma Bianchi

•

This thread has been such an amazing resource! As someone who's completely new to the construction industry and business ownership, I was totally overwhelmed when I first started reading about charitable donation tax rules. But seeing everyone break it down with real examples and experiences has made it so much clearer. The food bank storage facility project sounds like a great way to give back to your community! Based on everything discussed here, it seems like you've got a solid plan - tracking materials separately, keeping good records, and getting proper documentation from the food bank. One thing I'm curious about from reading through all these experiences - has anyone found that doing charitable work actually helped their business grow through word-of-mouth referrals? I'm wondering if the community goodwill aspect makes the complexity of the tax documentation worth it beyond just the deduction benefits. Also, for someone just starting out like both of us, would you recommend doing a smaller charitable project first to get familiar with all the documentation requirements before taking on something bigger? I'm thinking it might be easier to learn the process with a simpler project that doesn't hit the $5,000 Form 8283 threshold right away. Thanks for sharing your plans - it's inspiring to see new business owners committed to giving back to their communities while building their companies!

0 coins

Asher Levin

•

The software you used to calculate your taxes separately might not be showing you the full picture. When filing separately, there are several disadvantages: - You can't claim Earned Income Credit - You can't claim education credits like the American Opportunity or Lifetime Learning Credits - You can't exclude interest from savings bonds used for education - If one spouse itemizes, both must itemize even if the standard deduction would be better for one - IRA contribution deductions might be reduced or eliminated - Child and dependent care credit is usually reduced Try running the full calculation with these limitations and see if separate filing still looks better. Software sometimes doesn't apply all these restrictions when you're just exploring options.

0 coins

Serene Snow

•

Is this still true with the new tax law? I thought they changed some of this stuff.

0 coins

This is actually more common than you'd think! I went through the exact same thing last year. The key issue is usually withholding - when both spouses work and select "married" on their W-4s, the withholding tables assume you're the primary or only earner in the household. What happens is your individual withholdings are calculated as if each of you is married to someone with no income, but when you combine your incomes for joint filing, you get pushed into higher tax brackets that your withholdings weren't designed to handle. A few things to check: Look at whether any of your tax credits phase out at your combined income level that wouldn't phase out individually. Also, if you have any side income, investments, or other non-W-2 income, that can throw off the withholding calculations even more. For next year, definitely use the IRS withholding calculator or consider having extra tax withheld from one of your paychecks. You might also want to make quarterly estimated payments if you have non-wage income. Don't amend to file separately without running the full calculation first - you'll lose access to several valuable credits and deductions that could make joint filing better overall despite the current year's surprise bill.

0 coins

Gabriel Ruiz

•

This is such a helpful breakdown! I'm dealing with a similar situation and wondering - when you mention using the IRS withholding calculator, how often should we be updating our W-4s? Should we recalculate every year or only when our income changes significantly? Also, do you know if there's a rule of thumb for how much extra to withhold when both spouses work? I want to avoid this surprise tax bill situation next year!

0 coins

Aaliyah Reed

•

Great question! I went through something very similar a few years ago. The key thing to understand is that the IRS counts "academic years" not credit hours when determining your four-year eligibility for the American Opportunity Credit. Since your dual enrollment credits were earned while you were still in high school, they don't count toward your four years of post-secondary education. The clock starts ticking after you graduate high school and enroll as a degree-seeking student at a college or university. Based on what you've described - only claiming the credit for two previous years and graduating in May 2022 - you should absolutely be eligible to claim it for 2022. The fact that you had 125 total credits doesn't matter for this purpose. Make sure you have your Form 1098-T from your university and documentation of your qualified education expenses. Also double-check that you meet the income requirements (the credit phases out starting at $80K for single filers in 2022). Don't leave money on the table! This credit can be worth up to $2,500 and is partially refundable, so even if you don't owe taxes, you could still get up to $1,000 back.

0 coins

Jean Claude

•

This is really helpful! I'm actually in a very similar situation - I did dual enrollment and earned about 45 credits while in high school, then went straight to a 4-year university. I've been worried that all those early credits would disqualify me from the American Opportunity Credit, but it sounds like they shouldn't count against the "four years" limit since I earned them before graduating high school. I've only claimed the credit once before, so I should still have eligibility remaining. Thanks for clarifying that it's about academic years as a post-secondary student, not total credits accumulated!

0 coins

Madison King

•

This is such a common source of confusion! I went through the exact same situation with my dual enrollment credits. The IRS Publication 970 is really clear about this - the "first four years of post-secondary education" refers to academic years enrolled as a degree-seeking student after high school graduation, not total credit hours accumulated. Your 68 dual enrollment credits from high school absolutely do not count against your four-year eligibility window. What matters is that you've only been enrolled at your university for a few years after graduating high school, and you've only claimed the credit twice before. Since you graduated in May 2022 and this sounds like it was during your third or fourth year of actual college enrollment (post-high school), you're definitely still eligible for the American Opportunity Credit for 2022. Don't let those early credits scare you away from claiming a credit you're entitled to! Just make sure you have your Form 1098-T from your university and keep records of your qualified education expenses. The credit can be worth up to $2,500, and up to $1,000 of that is refundable even if you don't owe any taxes.

0 coins

Amara Okafor

•

This is exactly the clarification I needed! I'm in my first year of college after graduating high school last year, but I came in with 32 dual enrollment credits from my junior and senior years. My college placed me as a sophomore based on those credits, which had me really worried that I might not qualify for the American Opportunity Credit. But reading all these responses makes it clear that those high school credits don't count toward the "four years" limit - it's about how long I've actually been enrolled in college after graduation, not my class standing or total credits. I haven't claimed this credit before, so I should definitely be eligible for the full four years starting with my 2024 taxes. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - this could save me thousands of dollars over the next few years!

0 coins

Prev1...4748495051...5644Next