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I've been a retirement plan administrator for years and see this confusion all the time. When a 403(b) has both pre-tax and after-tax contributions, the rollover reporting can get messy. The distribution code "BG" is telling you something important. The "B" means qualified plan distribution, and the "G" specifically indicates this includes after-tax contributions. Those after-tax contributions ($12k in your case) should roll into your Roth IRA tax-free since you already paid tax on them. Only the earnings on those after-tax contributions (the $2k difference) would potentially be taxable when moving to a Roth. But if this was a direct transfer between trustees, even that might be reported differently. The blank in box 2a with unchecked box 2b is basically the provider saying "we don't know your tax situation, so we're not specifying the taxable amount.
That's super helpful, thanks! One thing I'm still confused about though - if the provider isn't specifying the taxable amount, how do I properly report this on my taxes? Is there a specific form or worksheet I need to use to calculate the taxable portion? I don't want to accidentally pay taxes on money that's already been taxed.
You'd report this on Form 8606, "Nondeductible IRAs." This form helps you track your basis (the after-tax contributions) to ensure you don't pay tax on it again. For the taxable portion (the earnings), you'd include that amount on line 4b of your Form 1040. Be sure to write "Rollover" next to line 4a to indicate this was a retirement account rollover. The difference between your gross distribution and the after-tax contributions ($2,000 in your case) would be the potentially taxable amount if you're converting to a Roth.
Has anyone used TurboTax to handle this kind of situation? I'm going through something similar and wondering if the software can handle these complex rollover situations correctly.
I used TurboTax last year for my 403(b) to Roth conversion and it handled it pretty well! The interview process asks specific questions about rollovers and walks you through entering all the information from your 1099-R forms. It specifically asked about pre-tax vs after-tax contributions and calculated the taxable portion correctly. Just make sure you have all your forms ready and enter the information exactly as it appears. TurboTax will prompt you about the distribution codes and ask if you rolled over to a qualified account. The software is actually pretty good at handling these retirement account scenarios.
Thanks for sharing your experience! That's reassuring to hear. I've got all my forms together, so I'll give it a try. Did you have to fill out Form 8606 separately or did TurboTax generate that for you automatically when you entered the information?
Has anyone here used the Retirement Tax Worksheets from IRS Publication 575? I had a similar 1099-R situation and that publication helped me figure out the taxable vs. non-taxable portions. The key is knowing whether you made after-tax contributions (which you'd need records for) or if everything was pre-tax. Also, Box 7 on your 1099-R has a code that can give you clues about the distribution type. What code is in Box 7 of your form?
Box 7 on my 1099-R has the code "7" in it. Not sure what that means exactly. As far as I know, all my contributions were pre-tax, but I'll have to double check my old statements. I'll look up that IRS Publication 575 you mentioned - thanks for the tip!
Code 7 typically means a normal distribution, no known exceptions to the additional tax. So if you're under 59½, you're likely subject to the 10% early withdrawal penalty unless you qualify for an exception. If all your contributions were pre-tax (which is most common with 401k plans), then unfortunately the entire distribution is typically taxable. Publication 575 has worksheets that can help confirm this. Your plan administrator should also be able to tell you if you ever made after-tax contributions, which would give you some non-taxable basis.
I went through this exact same situation a few years ago and it's definitely frustrating! When Box 2a is blank with "taxable amount not determined" checked, it usually happens when the plan administrator doesn't have complete records of your contribution history or basis in the account. Here's what I learned: You'll need to determine the taxable amount yourself using your contribution records. Since you mentioned it was a traditional 401k with pre-tax contributions for 8 years, the entire $42,800 is likely taxable as ordinary income. However, I'd strongly recommend double-checking a few things: 1. Pull out all your old 401k statements to verify you never made any after-tax contributions (sometimes called "designated Roth contributions" or "non-deductible contributions") 2. Check if your employer ever made any after-tax contributions on your behalf 3. Look at Box 5 on your 1099-R - if there's an amount there, it represents any after-tax contributions that wouldn't be taxable The good news is that medical expenses and home repairs might qualify you for exceptions to the 10% early withdrawal penalty if you're under 59½. Medical expenses that exceed 7.5% of your adjusted gross income can be an exception. Keep all your receipts and documentation! I'd recommend consulting with a tax professional for your specific situation, but at least now you know what direction to head in.
This is really helpful, thank you! I just checked my 1099-R and Box 5 is completely empty, so I guess that confirms no after-tax contributions. Looking back at my old statements, everything does appear to be pre-tax contributions like I thought. One question about the penalty exceptions - you mentioned medical expenses over 7.5% of AGI. Does that mean if my adjusted gross income is around $65,000 this year, I'd need medical expenses over about $4,875 to qualify for the exception? I had some major dental work done ($3,200) plus some other medical bills, but I'm not sure if I'll hit that threshold. Do I need to have paid these expenses in the same year I took the distribution, or can they be from previous years? Also, for the home repairs - are there specific types that qualify, or does any home improvement work count toward the penalty exception?
This is a really common confusion for new independent contractors! You're absolutely right to question it, but here's the deal: when you're self-employed (which is what a 1099 means), ALL payments from your client - including reimbursements - get reported as income on the 1099. This might seem unfair, but it actually works in your favor. Here's why: You get to deduct your actual business mileage on Schedule C at the IRS standard rate (67 cents per mile for 2024). So if you drove 18,000 business miles, that's a $12,060 deduction! Since your reimbursement was only $10,800, you'll actually get to deduct MORE than what was included in your income. Don't ask for a corrected 1099 - that's not how it works for contractors. Just report the full income amount and then claim your mileage deduction. Make sure you have good records of your business trips (dates, destinations, business purpose, and mileage). A simple mileage log or phone app works fine. The key is understanding that as a contractor, you report ALL income and then deduct ALL legitimate business expenses. In your case, this should actually reduce your tax bill compared to what you're expecting!
This is super helpful! I'm new to being a contractor and had no idea that reimbursements would be treated as income. So just to make sure I understand - even though my client paid me $10,800 for mileage "reimbursement," I can still deduct the full IRS rate of 67 cents per mile for all my business driving? That would actually give me a bigger deduction than what they paid me, which seems almost too good to be true. I've been keeping track of my miles in a notebook - is that good enough for the IRS, or do I need something more formal? And do I need to keep gas receipts too if I'm using the standard mileage rate?
Yes, exactly! You can deduct the full IRS standard rate regardless of what your client reimbursed you. So at 67 cents per mile for 18,000 business miles, you'd get a $12,060 deduction even though they only "reimbursed" $10,800. That extra $1,260 in deductions is legitimate and helps offset the fact that the reimbursement was incorrectly treated as income. Your notebook is perfectly fine for the IRS - you just need to show the date, destination, business purpose, and mileage for each trip. Don't worry about gas receipts if you're using the standard mileage rate - that rate is meant to cover all vehicle expenses including gas, maintenance, depreciation, etc. You can't double-dip by claiming both the standard rate AND actual expenses like gas receipts. The standard mileage method is usually simpler for most contractors since you don't need to track every car expense. Just keep that mileage log updated and you'll be all set!
Great thread everyone! As someone who's been doing contract work for a few years, I want to emphasize something that might not be obvious to newcomers: keep your mileage log updated throughout the year, not just at tax time. I learned this the hard way my first year when I tried to reconstruct 12 months of business driving from memory and old calendar entries. Now I use a simple smartphone app that tracks my trips automatically, but even a basic notebook works fine as long as you're consistent. Also, don't forget that your business mileage includes trips to pick up supplies, meet clients, travel between job sites, and even trips to the bank to deposit checks or the post office to mail invoices. It all adds up! The key is that it has to be for business purposes - your regular commute to a main office location doesn't count, but travel between different client locations during the day does. One last tip: if you're driving a lot for work like the OP, consider setting aside money quarterly for estimated taxes. That 1099 income without withholding can create a big tax bill in April, but the mileage deduction will definitely help reduce what you owe.
This is such valuable advice! I wish I'd known about tracking mileage consistently from the start. I'm curious - for those smartphone apps you mentioned, do they automatically categorize trips as business vs personal, or do you still have to review and mark each trip? I'm always worried about accidentally claiming personal miles as business deductions. Also, the point about quarterly estimated taxes is huge. I got hit with underpayment penalties my first year because I didn't realize how much I'd owe. Now I set aside about 25-30% of each payment, but with good mileage deductions like what's being discussed here, that percentage might be lower than I thought.
I just went through this exact same situation with my Empower rollover! The BG code combination was throwing me off too, but after speaking with a tax professional, here's what I learned: The "B" indicates it's from a designated Roth account (like Roth 401k), and the "G" confirms it was a direct rollover. Since you rolled from one qualified plan to another, this should be completely non-taxable. The blank box 2a with "Taxable amount not determined" checked is actually normal for these situations. Empower is basically saying "we're not calculating the taxable portion because this should be handled as a rollover by the taxpayer." When I entered mine in TurboTax, I just had to make sure to answer "Yes" when it asked if this was a rollover. The software automatically treated it as non-taxable after that. You definitely still need to report the 1099-R on your return though - the IRS needs to see that you received it and properly handled it as a rollover. The different amounts in box 1 vs box 5 just represent your total distribution vs your original contributions. Since it was a proper rollover, you don't need to calculate anything - just report it correctly as a rollover and you should be all set!
This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you so much for breaking down what the B and G codes mean together - I've been stressing about this for weeks thinking I might owe taxes on my rollover. It's reassuring to hear from someone who went through the same situation with Empower. I'll make sure to answer "Yes" to the rollover question when I enter this in my tax software. Really appreciate you taking the time to explain the whole process!
I had a very similar situation last year with my 401k rollover and those BG codes on the 1099-R form. What helped me was understanding that you absolutely need to report this on your tax return even though it's not taxable - the IRS cross-references the 1099-R they received from Empower with what you report. The key thing is when your tax software asks about the distribution, make sure you clearly indicate it was a "direct rollover" or "trustee-to-trustee transfer." Most tax software will have a specific question about this. Once you mark it as a rollover, the software should automatically treat the entire amount as non-taxable. One thing to double-check: make sure the rollover was completed within 60 days if it wasn't a direct trustee-to-trustee transfer. If it was done properly between the two Empower accounts, you should be fine. The blank box 2a is actually working in your favor here - it means Empower isn't claiming any portion is taxable, which is correct for a proper rollover. Don't stress too much about calculating the taxable portion yourself - that's exactly why they left box 2a blank and checked the "not determined" box. Just report it accurately as a rollover and you'll be good to go!
Caleb Bell
For what it's worth, I itemized deductions as a dependent last year and it was definitely worth it in my case. Had about $14,000 in medical expenses after a major surgery (which easily cleared the 7.5% AGI threshold) plus some charitable donations. The key thing I learned is that you need to be the one who actually paid the expenses if you want to claim them. So I made sure to pay my medical bills directly from my account rather than having my parents pay them, even though they offered. Made documentation much cleaner for tax purposes.
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Katherine Hunter
ā¢Did you use any specific tax software that handled the dependent itemization well? I'm worried the mainstream ones might not correctly calculate everything for my situation.
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Caleb Bell
ā¢I used TaxAct last year and it handled everything correctly. The key is to indicate that you're being claimed as a dependent at the beginning of the process. Then when you get to the itemized deductions section, it will apply all the correct limitations automatically. I did double-check the calculations myself just to be sure. One thing to watch for - make sure you're using the dependent standard deduction amount when comparing whether itemizing is worth it, not the regular standard deduction amount that the software might show you initially.
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Aidan Percy
Katherine, you're definitely on the right track asking about this! As a dependent, you can absolutely file your own return and itemize deductions if it benefits you. Looking at your specific situation: Your $2,800 in medical expenses could be partially deductible since they need to exceed 7.5% of your $18,500 AGI (so about $1,388). That means roughly $1,412 of your medical bills would qualify. Your $500 charitable donation to the university is fully deductible since you made it with your own money. However, those job expenses related to your internship likely aren't deductible anymore due to tax law changes in 2018 - unreimbursed employee expenses were eliminated for most people. So you'd potentially have around $1,912 in itemized deductions ($1,412 medical + $500 charitable). As a dependent, your standard deduction would be $18,900 (your earned income plus $400, but capped at the regular standard deduction). In your case, itemizing probably wouldn't be worth it since your itemized amount is much lower than the standard deduction. The good news is you can still claim these on your own return - they don't go to your parents just because you're a dependent. Just make sure you have good documentation showing you personally paid these expenses!
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Ingrid Larsson
ā¢This is really helpful, thank you! I had no idea about the 7.5% AGI threshold for medical expenses - that explains why the tax software was showing such a small deduction amount. So if I'm understanding correctly, even though I have $2,800 in medical bills, only the portion above $1,388 would actually count toward itemized deductions? And you're right about the standard deduction being higher - I was getting confused because some online calculators were showing me the regular amount instead of the dependent limitation. Sounds like I should probably just go with the standard deduction this year, but it's good to know I have the option to itemize on my own return if needed. One follow-up question though - do I need to file a return at all if my parents are claiming me and I'm taking the standard deduction? I had taxes withheld from my paychecks so I think I might be due a refund.
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