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Great thread! I wanted to add one more important consideration for your specific situation, Lena. Since you mentioned you're expecting about $1 million in taxable income from your partnership, you should be aware of the Section 179 income limitation. For 2025, the Section 179 deduction begins to phase out when you purchase more than $3.05 million in qualifying property during the year, and it's completely eliminated if you exceed $4.27 million. But more importantly for most people, your total Section 179 deduction cannot exceed your taxable income from all active businesses. In your case with $1M in income, this shouldn't be a problem, but it's something to keep in mind. Also, since you mentioned you own two accounting firms, make sure you're considering the aggregate income from both businesses when calculating your eligible deduction amount. One last tip: If you're considering multiple vehicle purchases, remember that the $28,900 SUV cap applies per vehicle, not per taxpayer. So if you bought two qualifying SUVs, you could potentially take up to $57,800 in Section 179 deductions (subject to your business use percentage for each).

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Olivia Clark

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Thanks for bringing up the income limitations, Charlee! This is really helpful context. I hadn't fully considered how the aggregate income from both my accounting firms would factor into the Section 179 calculations. Your point about the per-vehicle SUV cap is particularly interesting - I was thinking it was a total limit, but if I could potentially get $28,900 per qualifying SUV, that changes my planning significantly. Quick question: When you mention "taxable income from all active businesses," does that include the full K-1 income I receive from my partnership, or are there adjustments I need to make for passive vs. active income classification? I want to make sure I'm calculating my eligible deduction base correctly before making any major vehicle purchases.

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Great question about the active vs. passive income classification! For Section 179 purposes, you need taxable income from the active conduct of any trade or business. Since you're actively involved in both accounting firms as an owner-operator, the K-1 income from your partnership should generally qualify as active business income. However, there are a few nuances to consider: The income must be from businesses where you materially participate. As an accounting firm owner, you almost certainly meet the material participation tests, so your K-1 income should count toward your Section 179 income limitation. Just be aware that if you have any passive rental income or other passive activities, those wouldn't count toward your Section 179 income base. But salary, self-employment income, and active business income from partnerships (like your situation) all qualify. Also, remember that the income limitation is calculated after considering all your business deductions, not just gross income. So your $1M figure should work well for Section 179 planning, assuming that's your net taxable business income rather than gross receipts.

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Isaac Wright

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This is such a comprehensive discussion! I wanted to add one more consideration that might be relevant for your situation, Lena. Since you're dealing with a high-value luxury vehicle like the Mercedes EQS SUV, you should also be aware of the luxury auto limitations that can interact with Section 179. Even though the Section 179 SUV cap is $28,900 for 2025, if your vehicle falls under the luxury auto rules (which vehicles over $64,300 typically do), there are additional depreciation limitations that can affect your total first-year deduction when combining Section 179 with bonus depreciation. For luxury vehicles in 2025, the first-year depreciation cap (including Section 179 and bonus depreciation combined) is around $21,560 for passenger automobiles, though SUVs over 6,000 lbs GVWR are generally exempt from these luxury auto limits - which is actually another advantage of choosing qualifying heavy SUVs. Since your Mercedes EQS SUV meets the weight requirement, you should be able to take the full $28,900 Section 179 deduction plus 80% bonus depreciation on the remaining business-use portion without hitting the luxury auto caps. This is one of the key reasons why many business owners specifically choose SUVs over 6,000 lbs - they avoid both the luxury auto limitations and can access the more favorable depreciation treatment. Just make sure to confirm the exact GVWR specification with the dealer, as sometimes different trim levels of the same model can have slightly different weights that might affect eligibility.

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This is incredibly helpful, Isaac! I had no idea about the luxury auto limitations and how they interact with Section 179. The fact that SUVs over 6,000 lbs GVWR are exempt from those luxury auto caps makes the Mercedes EQS SUV even more attractive from a tax perspective. Your point about confirming the exact GVWR with the dealer is spot on - I'll definitely double-check that the specific trim level I'm considering actually meets the 6,000+ lb requirement. It would be devastating to make a $200,000 purchase assuming I'll get the favorable tax treatment, only to find out later that the vehicle doesn't qualify. One follow-up question: You mentioned 80% bonus depreciation for 2025. Is this percentage scheduled to decrease further in future years? I'm wondering if there's any advantage to making this purchase in 2025 versus waiting until 2026, aside from just needing the vehicle for business purposes now. Thanks again for all the detailed insights - this thread has been more helpful than hours of research on my own!

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This is exactly the kind of strategic thinking that can make a huge difference in your FAFSA results! Your approach of maxing out retirement contributions is spot-on - those accounts are completely excluded from the FAFSA asset calculation. One additional consideration: since you mentioned you have 5 paychecks left this year, make sure your employer's payroll system can handle the increased contribution amounts in time. Some companies need advance notice for significant 401k changes, especially near year-end when they're processing annual limits. Also, regarding your RV loan payoff strategy - that's smart because it reduces your cash assets (which count against you) while eliminating debt (which doesn't help you on FAFSA anyway since consumer debt isn't considered). Just make sure the timing works with your cash flow needs. The timing of your mutual fund sales is crucial too. You want those gains to show up in the tax year before your child's sophomore year FAFSA if possible, since FAFSA looks at the "prior-prior year" tax return. This way the income bump won't affect aid calculations until later in college when you've already benefited from the asset sheltering. One last thought - consider whether any of those mutual fund positions have losses you could harvest first. You can offset gains with losses while still accomplishing your goal of moving assets to retirement accounts.

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This is incredibly comprehensive advice, thank you! The point about employer payroll timing is something I hadn't thought about - I'll check with HR tomorrow to make sure they can process the contribution changes in time. The timing strategy you mentioned about mutual fund sales is particularly interesting. So if my kid is starting college fall 2025, the FAFSA will look at our 2023 tax return for the first year, right? That means any gains from sales this year (2024) won't hit the FAFSA calculation until his sophomore year. That gives us more flexibility with the timing. I do have some positions with losses that I could harvest first - mostly some tech stocks that are underwater. Would it make sense to sell those at a loss this year and then use the proceeds to fund the IRA contributions, while keeping the winning mutual funds for next year's sales?

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Actually, I need to correct something about the FAFSA timing. For students starting college in fall 2025, the FAFSA will use your 2023 tax return (the "prior-prior year" rule). So any capital gains from sales you make in 2024 won't appear on the FAFSA until your child's sophomore year, which is exactly what you want! Your tax loss harvesting strategy is excellent. Selling the underwater positions this year accomplishes several things: you get tax losses to offset other income, you free up cash to max out IRA contributions, and you avoid having those losing positions drag down your portfolio. Just be careful about the wash sale rule - don't repurchase the same or "substantially identical" securities within 30 days of the sale. One more tip: if you have any losing positions in taxable accounts and winning positions of the same funds in retirement accounts, you could sell the losers in taxable and buy more of the winners in your IRA/401k. This lets you maintain your overall asset allocation while harvesting the tax benefits.

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Your strategy is really solid! I went through this same process two years ago with my oldest. One thing I'd add - don't forget about the American Opportunity Tax Credit (AOTC) when planning your income levels. You can claim up to $2,500 per student for the first four years of college, but it starts phasing out at $80K AGI for single filers ($160K for married filing jointly). Since you're looking at around $106K taxable income after retirement contributions, you should still qualify for the full credit. But it's worth keeping in mind for future years - sometimes it makes sense to manage your retirement withdrawals or Roth conversions to stay under the AOTC phase-out thresholds while your kids are in school. Also, regarding your question about distributions not counting as income for FAFSA - be careful here. While retirement account balances don't count as assets, any distributions you take (including both contributions and earnings) DO count as income on the FAFSA. So if you need to tap those accounts during college years, it will affect aid eligibility for the following year. The beauty of your current plan is that you're sheltering assets NOW while your child is applying, but you're not planning to take distributions until much later when FAFSA won't matter anymore.

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Sunny Wang

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This is really helpful context about the AOTC! I hadn't fully considered how that credit phases out. Your point about managing future retirement withdrawals to stay under the phase-out thresholds is smart planning - it's not just about the current FAFSA filing but thinking ahead to all four years of college. The clarification about distributions counting as income is crucial too. I was getting confused about that distinction. So our current strategy of moving assets into retirement accounts helps us now for FAFSA purposes, but we need to be careful about timing any future distributions during the college years. Good thing we're planning this as long-term retirement money anyway! Do you know if there's a particular order that makes sense for tapping different accounts if we absolutely had to access funds during college? Like Roth contributions first since they don't trigger income, then maybe 401k loans, then traditional IRA/401k distributions as a last resort?

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One thing to be really careful about with C Corp wind-downs is the accumulated earnings tax (Section 531). If the IRS determines that you've been accumulating earnings beyond the reasonable needs of the business just to avoid dividend distributions, they can hit you with a penalty tax on top of everything else. This is especially relevant for single-shareholder C Corps that have been inactive but sitting on retained earnings. For your specific situation with $25K in loan repayments and $10K in E&P, document everything meticulously. The IRS will want to see that the loans were legitimate business transactions with proper terms from the start. If you're planning to wind down completely, consider doing it in phases over multiple tax years to spread out the tax impact rather than taking everything in one year and potentially pushing yourself into higher tax brackets. Also, don't forget about state tax implications - some states have their own rules about C Corp distributions and dissolutions that might differ from federal treatment.

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This is really helpful about the accumulated earnings tax - I hadn't even considered that aspect! Quick question about the phased approach you mentioned. If I spread the distributions over multiple years, does that reset my basis calculations each year, or do I need to track the cumulative basis reduction across all the distribution years? Also, are there any minimum distribution requirements once you start the wind-down process, or can I really control the timing as much as I want?

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Micah Trail

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Great question about the phased approach! Your basis reduction is cumulative across all distribution years - you don't get to "reset" it annually. So if your initial basis is $5K and you take $3K as return of capital in year 1, your basis drops to $2K for year 2 distributions. Regarding timing control, there generally aren't minimum distribution requirements for C Corps in wind-down mode, which gives you flexibility. However, be careful not to drag it out too long - the IRS could question whether you're truly winding down if the process stretches over many years without legitimate business reasons. One strategy I've seen work well is taking the loan repayments first (since those aren't taxable), then spreading the E&P distributions over 2-3 years to manage your tax brackets. Just make sure you maintain proper corporate formalities throughout the process and document the business reasons for your timing decisions. State requirements may vary, so check your state's rules about inactive corporations and any ongoing filing obligations. @76a129710797 mentioned the accumulated earnings tax - that's definitely something to watch if you're sitting on significant retained earnings without clear business justification for keeping them in the corp.

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One thing I'd add to this excellent discussion is to consider the timing of when you actually receive the loan repayment funds versus when you take the dividend distribution. The IRS looks closely at the substance over form, so if you're taking both transactions simultaneously or very close together, they might view it as one large distribution rather than separate transactions. I'd recommend clearly documenting the loan repayment first, wait a reasonable period (maybe a quarter or two), then handle the dividend distribution separately. This creates a cleaner paper trail and reduces the risk of the IRS challenging the characterization of your transactions. Also, since you mentioned this is essentially a wound-down operation, make sure you're not triggering any personal holding company tax issues if you have significant passive income. With inactive C Corps, sometimes rental income or investment income can create unexpected tax complications that are separate from your distribution planning.

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Dylan Fisher

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This is really smart advice about the timing separation! I'm actually dealing with a similar situation right now and was planning to do both transactions in the same month, but you're absolutely right that it could raise red flags with the IRS about substance over form. Quick follow-up question - when you mention waiting "a quarter or two" between transactions, is that based on any specific IRS guidance or just best practice from your experience? I'm trying to balance the timing strategy with my cash flow needs since I do need access to these funds relatively soon. Also, regarding the personal holding company tax you mentioned - what's the threshold for passive income that would trigger those rules? My C Corp has been mostly dormant but does have a small amount of rental income from some equipment we lease out.

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Great question! You're absolutely right that you should qualify for the 0% federal long-term capital gains rate. With your taxable income of $40,361, you're well under the $47,025 threshold for single filers in 2024. To verify you're not being charged federal tax on your $1,842 in long-term capital gains, check these specific places on your tax return: 1. **Form 1040, Line 7** - This shows your capital gains income 2. **Schedule D, Line 16** - This calculates your capital gains tax 3. **Form 1040, Line 16** - This is where capital gains tax would appear on your main form If you're truly in the 0% bracket, Line 16 on your 1040 should show $0 for capital gains tax, even though the gains are included in your total income. Most tax software will also have a "tax summary" or "detailed calculation" view that breaks down exactly how much tax you're paying on different types of income. Look for a section that specifically mentions "long-term capital gains tax" - it should show $0. You're correct that you'll still owe state taxes on these gains (assuming your state taxes capital gains), but federally you should be in the clear!

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Rhett Bowman

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This is super helpful! I'm new to investing and capital gains taxes, so breaking down exactly which lines to check makes this so much clearer. I've been worried I was missing something obvious about how the 0% bracket works. Quick follow-up question - if I'm planning to sell more stocks before year-end, is there a calculator or tool that can help me figure out exactly how much I can sell while staying in the 0% bracket? I don't want to accidentally push myself into the 15% rate by selling too much at once.

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Sarah Jones

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@Rhett Bowman Great question! For calculating how much you can sell while staying in the 0% bracket, you need to work backwards from the threshold. Since you re'single, you can have up to $47,025 in taxable income and still qualify for 0% on long-term capital gains. Here s'the math: Take the $47,025 threshold, subtract your current taxable income excluding (any new capital gains you re'planning ,)and that s'your remaining room "in" the 0% bracket. So if your current taxable income from wages, interest, etc. is $40,000, you d'have $7,025 of room left for additional long-term capital gains at the 0% rate. Several people mentioned the taxr.ai tool earlier in this thread - that seems like it would be perfect for this type of calculation since it shows you exactly where you stand in each bracket and how additional sales would affect your taxes. Much easier than doing the math manually, especially when you factor in things like wash sale rules or different holding periods for different stocks.

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As someone who's been through this exact situation, I can confirm you're absolutely correct about qualifying for the 0% federal rate! Your math looks spot-on. One thing that really helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet to track my "tax bucket" throughout the year. I list my expected ordinary income, then track how much "room" I have left in the 0% capital gains bracket before hitting that $47,025 threshold. This way I can make strategic decisions about when to realize gains. Also, since you mentioned you're using tax software, most programs have a "what-if" scenario feature where you can add hypothetical income (like additional capital gains) to see how it affects your tax liability. This is super useful for year-end planning - you can see exactly how much more you could sell while staying in the 0% bracket. One last tip: if you do end up with gains that would push you slightly over the threshold, consider whether you have any capital losses you could harvest to offset them. Even small losses can help keep you in that sweet 0% bracket!

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This is excellent advice about the spreadsheet tracking! I'm definitely going to set something like this up. One question though - when you mention "capital losses you could harvest," do you mean selling losing investments to offset gains? And does it matter if those losses are short-term vs long-term when offsetting long-term gains? I have a few stocks that are down and wondering if it makes sense to sell them before year-end to stay in the 0% bracket.

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! As someone who's been on the fence about UHC's Apple Watch program, seeing all these real-world experiences has given me a much clearer picture of what to expect. A few things that really stood out to me: 1. The tax hit is significant but predictable if you plan for it 2. Documentation and staying on top of deadlines seems crucial for success 3. The program works best for people who are already active rather than those hoping it will motivate lifestyle changes One question I haven't seen addressed - has anyone used the Apple Watch's health data for anything beyond the UHC program requirements? I'm wondering if the detailed heart rate, sleep, and activity data might be useful for discussions with my doctor or for other health-related purposes that could add value beyond just meeting the wellness program goals. Also, for those who completed the program successfully, did you find that the health insights from the Apple Watch were genuinely helpful, or was it mainly just a way to get a discounted device? I'm trying to weigh whether the health benefits justify the complexity of the program versus just buying a watch outright. Thanks everyone for sharing such detailed experiences - this is exactly the kind of real-world perspective you can't get from UHC's marketing materials!

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Great question about using the health data beyond UHC requirements! I've been using my Apple Watch data in discussions with my doctor and it's been surprisingly valuable. The detailed heart rate trends helped identify some irregularities that led to early detection of a minor heart condition that might have gone unnoticed otherwise. The sleep tracking data has also been useful - I was able to show my doctor clear patterns of poor sleep quality that helped us adjust my approach to managing work stress. Having months of objective data rather than just subjective "I don't sleep well" complaints made those conversations much more productive. Beyond medical discussions, I've found the activity trends helpful for understanding how my energy levels correlate with different types of workouts and rest periods. It's given me better insights into optimizing my fitness routine than I had with just basic step counting. So while I initially got into the UHC program mainly for the discounted device, the health insights have actually become the most valuable part for me. The program requirements kind of forced me to pay attention to the data consistently, which I probably wouldn't have done otherwise. That said, you could get these same benefits by buying an Apple Watch outright and using it consistently. The UHC program just provides the financial incentive to actually stick with tracking regularly rather than letting the watch sit in a drawer after a few months!

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LongPeri

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This has been such a comprehensive discussion! I'm a tax accountant who works with a lot of clients navigating these employer wellness programs, and I wanted to add one more perspective that might help folks making this decision. One thing I've noticed is that many people focus heavily on the immediate tax implications but don't consider the potential long-term health cost savings. Several of my clients who've gone through UHC's Apple Watch program have told me that the consistent health monitoring helped them catch issues early or motivated them to maintain better habits that reduced their healthcare costs over time. From a pure financial planning perspective, if the watch helps you avoid even one urgent care visit or catch a health issue early, the tax savings from reduced medical expenses could more than offset the initial tax hit from the imputed income. That said, I always advise clients to treat the wellness requirements as a serious commitment. I've seen too many people get excited about the "free" device and then struggle with the ongoing obligations. The key is being honest about your lifestyle and whether you can realistically maintain the activity levels for a full year. For anyone moving forward with this, I'd recommend keeping detailed records not just for UHC compliance, but also for your own tax planning. Health-related expenses can sometimes be deductible, and having comprehensive data makes it easier to identify potential tax benefits down the road.

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