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Ask the community...

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StarSurfer

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One thing to keep in mind is the timing of when you lived in different parts of the house. The IRS has specific rules about mixed-use properties where part was your primary residence and part was rental. If you've lived in the main part continuously as your primary residence for at least 2 of the last 5 years before selling, that portion should qualify for the Section 121 exclusion. However, for the rental unit portion, even if it's in the same building, the IRS typically treats it as a separate property for tax purposes. This means you'll definitely owe the 25% recapture tax on all depreciation taken for the rental unit, and that portion won't qualify for the primary residence exclusion. For your home office depreciation, this gets a bit more complex - if the office is within your primary residence area and you stop using it as an office before selling, you might be able to apply the Section 121 exclusion to that portion's gain, but you'll still owe recapture tax on the depreciation taken. I'd strongly recommend getting a tax professional to help you allocate the sale proceeds between the different uses of the property to make sure you're calculating everything correctly.

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This is really helpful clarification! I'm just getting started with understanding depreciation recapture and had no idea that the IRS treats different parts of the same building separately for tax purposes. So if I'm understanding correctly, even though it's all one property, the rental unit portion gets treated like a completely separate investment property when it comes to the Section 121 exclusion? That seems like it could significantly impact the overall tax liability depending on how much of the total property value is attributed to the rental portion versus the primary residence portion. How do you typically determine the allocation between the different uses? Is it based on square footage, or are there other factors the IRS considers?

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Ryan Andre

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Great question about allocation methods! The IRS typically allows several approaches for determining the split between personal residence and rental portions, but square footage is the most common and defensible method. For example, if your rental unit is 800 sq ft and your total property is 2,400 sq ft, then 33% would be allocated to the rental portion and 67% to your primary residence. This percentage applies to both your original basis and the sale proceeds. However, you can also use other reasonable methods like: - Number of rooms (if they're similar in size) - Fair rental value comparison - Relative assessed values if your local tax assessor breaks them out separately The key is being consistent - whatever method you used when you first started taking depreciation deductions should generally be the same method you use when calculating the sale allocation. Keep good documentation of your methodology because the IRS may ask you to justify your allocation during an audit. One important note: if you've been using a specific percentage on your Schedule E forms over the years for the rental portion, stick with that same percentage for the sale calculation. Changing it could raise red flags.

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The Boss

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This is exactly the kind of detailed guidance I was looking for! I'm in a similar situation where I've been renting out about 30% of my home (based on square footage) for the past 4 years. I've been consistently using that 30% figure on my Schedule E forms, so it sounds like I should stick with that same percentage when I eventually sell. One follow-up question - when you mention keeping good documentation of the methodology, what specific records should I be maintaining? I have floor plans showing the square footage breakdown, but are there other documents the IRS typically wants to see if they audit the allocation? Also, do you know if there are any special considerations if you've made improvements to different parts of the property over the years? For example, if I renovated the rental unit's kitchen but not my own kitchen, does that affect how the basis gets allocated?

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Pedro Sawyer

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Sorry you're dealing with this! Just to add another perspective - double-check if you filled out a new W-4 when you started this job. The W-4 form changed completely in 2020 and no longer uses allowances. If you're using an old W-4 form from before 2020, the employer might have misinterpreted something. Or it could just be a data entry error where someone typed "9" instead of "0" or "1". For your bonuses, the standard supplemental wage withholding is 22% federal, not 18%. If they withheld less than that, it could explain part of why you're owing so much.

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Mae Bennett

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This is super important! My company had a systems switch and somehow all our old W-4 data got migrated incorrectly. Several people had bizarre allowance numbers that made no sense. They didn't even notice until people started complaining about weird withholding amounts.

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This sounds incredibly frustrating! The 9 allowances situation is definitely a red flag - that would drastically reduce your withholding throughout the year, which explains the large tax bill you're facing now. A few things to check immediately: 1. Request copies of all your paystubs from this year to verify what was actually withheld 2. Ask your HR/payroll department for documentation showing when and how your allowances were set to 9 3. Double-check that all your bonus withholding is properly included in Box 2 of your W-2 The good news is that if your employer made an error with your withholding allowances without your consent, you may be eligible for penalty relief from the IRS. They have provisions for situations where underwithholding wasn't the taxpayer's fault. For immediate relief, you can set up a payment plan with the IRS if you can't pay the full amount right away. And definitely submit a new W-4 form immediately to fix your withholding going forward - you don't want to be in this situation again next year! The bonus withholding should indeed be at 22% if they used the flat rate method, so 18% suggests there might have been an error there too.

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Lena Schultz

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I've dealt with this exact issue before with partnership returns. One thing that saved me was creating a detailed reconciliation worksheet between the accounting software balance sheet and Schedule L. Export your trial balance from the accounting software as of December 31st and compare each line item to what you've entered on Schedule L. Sometimes the issue isn't a missing transaction but rather a classification difference - for example, your software might classify something as "Equipment" while Schedule L requires it to be split between "Depreciable assets" and "Accumulated depreciation." Also check if there are any timing differences. Partnership tax returns are often prepared months after year-end, and sometimes additional transactions get recorded in the accounting system that should have been in the prior year. Look for any January entries that might actually belong in December. Since you're down to $3,200, I'd bet it's something simple like a rounding difference across multiple accounts or a single mid-sized transaction that got recorded in the wrong period. The good news is Schedule L problems are always solvable - the numbers have to be somewhere!

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This reconciliation worksheet approach is brilliant! I've been looking at this problem all wrong - just trying to match totals instead of going line by line. Your point about classification differences really resonates with me because I noticed our accounting software has some equipment listed under different categories than what Schedule L seems to expect. The timing difference issue you mentioned could definitely be part of our problem too. The partnership's accountant did make some adjusting entries in February that were supposed to be for December transactions, but I'm not sure if I properly reflected those on the tax return. I'm going to try your suggestion about exporting the trial balance and doing a detailed line-by-line comparison. With only $3,200 left to find, it's probably exactly what you said - either a classification issue or something that got recorded in the wrong period. Thanks for the systematic approach - this gives me a clear path forward instead of just randomly checking things!

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Amara Eze

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I went through a similar nightmare with a Schedule L that wouldn't balance last year! After hours of frustration, I discovered the issue was with how I was handling the depreciation. Make sure you're not double-counting depreciation anywhere. Check that: - Current year depreciation expense is properly reflected on the income statement - Accumulated depreciation is correctly updated on the balance sheet - Any Section 179 or bonus depreciation is handled consistently between your books and Schedule L Also, since you mentioned this is a construction partnership, watch out for work-in-progress (WIP) inventory. Construction companies often have jobs that span year-end, and the WIP can be tricky to value correctly. If they use percentage-of-completion accounting, make sure the WIP balance on Schedule L matches what's in their job costing system. One more thing - double check any equipment trades or disposals during the year. Construction companies frequently trade in old equipment, and if the gain/loss on disposal wasn't recorded properly, it can throw off both your fixed assets and equity accounts. You're so close with only $3,200 left to find! It's probably just one or two items that got missed or miscategorized.

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Amara Okafor

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The depreciation angle is something I hadn't fully considered! You're absolutely right about potential double-counting issues. I'm going to go back and trace through all the depreciation calculations to make sure everything flows correctly from the books to Schedule L. The work-in-progress point is really insightful too. This partnership does have a couple of jobs that were still ongoing at year-end, and I'm not confident I handled the WIP valuation correctly. Construction accounting can be so complex with all the timing issues around revenue recognition and job costs. I'll also check on any equipment transactions during the year. Now that I think about it, they did trade in an old excavator in November, and I remember the paperwork being confusing about the trade-in value versus the cash paid. That could definitely be part of my missing $3,200. Thanks for the specific things to look for - having these concrete items to check makes this feel much more manageable than just staring at numbers that don't add up!

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For future reference, you should also know that the tax treatment of relocation expenses changed significantly with the 2017 tax law (TCJA). Before 2018, qualifying moving expenses were tax-deductible and employer reimbursements could be excluded from income. Now, almost all relocation benefits are fully taxable (except for active military), which is why companies do the gross-up to help employees. Without the gross-up, a $10k relocation payment might only net you $6k after taxes, which doesn't help much with actual moving costs.

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Is there any talk about changing this back? Seems unfair that moving for work is now fully taxable when it's clearly a work-related expense. I'm relocating next month and trying to negotiate my package.

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Grace Lee

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There's been some discussion in Congress about restoring the moving expense deduction, but nothing concrete has passed yet. The provision was originally supposed to sunset in 2025 along with other TCJA changes, but recent legislation made most of the individual provisions permanent. For your negotiation, definitely push for a gross-up if they're offering relocation assistance. Without it, you'll lose a significant chunk to taxes. Also consider asking for them to cover specific expenses directly (like moving company costs) rather than giving you cash, as that might have better tax treatment in some cases. Worth discussing with a tax professional before you finalize anything.

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Zainab Ahmed

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I went through this exact same situation last year! The discrepancy between what you received and what's on your W-2 is actually pretty common with relocation bonuses. Your company likely did a "gross-up" calculation to ensure you received the full $10k after taxes. Here's what probably happened: They calculated that to give you $10k after all taxes (federal, state, FICA), they needed to report about $18k as taxable income. The extra $8k went directly to the IRS as tax withholding on your behalf. So you did receive the full benefit, just not all in cash. Double-check your final pay stub from last year - you should see the higher withholding amounts that correspond to the $18k gross income. When you file your taxes, you'll report the full $18k but you'll also get credit for all the taxes that were already withheld. It should balance out correctly and you won't owe extra taxes on money you didn't receive. This is actually a nice benefit from your employer since they covered the tax burden for you, but I agree they should have explained it better upfront!

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Ellie Kim

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Thanks for breaking this down so clearly! I'm dealing with a similar situation and this explanation really helps. One question - when you say "check your final pay stub," what specific line items should I be looking for? I see various tax withholdings but I'm not sure which ones would show the extra withholding from the gross-up calculation. Did your pay stub clearly label it as relocation-related withholding, or was it just mixed in with your regular tax withholdings?

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Does anyone know if you can track the status of an amended return? I'm worried about my amendment getting lost in the mail or something.

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Javier Cruz

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Yes, you can check amended return status using the "Where's My Amended Return" tool on IRS.gov or by calling their automated line. But you need to wait about 3 weeks after mailing before it shows up in their system. Definitely send it certified mail with tracking so you know they received it!

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Ryan Vasquez

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Another option to consider while waiting for the amendments to process is setting up a payment plan with the IRS if your parents are concerned about the immediate financial impact. They offer both short-term (120 days or less) and long-term installment agreements that can help spread out the payments. The short-term payment plan doesn't have a setup fee, and even if your refund comes through during those 120 days, any overpayment would be refunded back to them. This might be less stressful than paying the full amount upfront while waiting months for the amendment processing. You can set up payment plans online through the IRS website or by calling them directly. Just make sure to still file those amendments ASAP since the payment plan doesn't fix the underlying dependent status issue.

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Mateo Warren

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That's really helpful advice about the payment plan option! I didn't even know about the short-term 120-day plan with no setup fee. That could definitely take some pressure off while we wait for the amendments to go through. Do you know if there are any downsides to setting up a payment plan even if we expect to get the money back eventually?

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