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This situation is so confusing to me. My understanding was you can't claim kids that aren't yours? But then others are saying you can claim neices and nephews? what are the actual rules?? I'm getting ready to file for 2024 and my sister's kids live with me so i need to know.

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You absolutely can claim nieces and nephews or other relatives if they meet the IRS tests for qualifying dependents. They need to live with you for more than half the year, you need to provide more than half their support, they can't provide more than half their own support, and they can't be claimed by anyone else.

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Oliver Brown

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This is a really tough situation your cousin is in, but there might be more hope than his tax preparer is suggesting. I went through a similar audit two years ago and learned a lot about how the IRS evaluates these cases. First, regarding the HOH status - the fact that his ex-wife is using the same address is definitely what triggered this audit, but if they're truly living in separate households (even at the same address), he might still qualify. The IRS looks at whether you're maintaining separate living spaces and financial responsibilities. If they're sharing the same physical unit, then unfortunately only one can claim HOH. For the dependents, he's right to focus on proving his son lived with him - that's his strongest case. The niece and nephew situation is much trickier. Even with Form 8332 from his brother, he still needs to prove they lived with him for more than half the year AND that he provided more than half their support. If the kids were just visiting frequently but not actually residing with him, those claims might not hold up. The financial impact of losing HOH and two dependents could be significant - potentially several thousand dollars. But if he can keep HOH status with just his son as a qualifying person, that would minimize the damage considerably. I'd suggest getting a second opinion from a CPA or enrolled agent who specializes in audit representation, not just a tax prep service.

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Just wanted to add something important - don't forget about the Qualified Business Income deduction (Section 199A). Since you're self-employed with DoorDash, you can potentially deduct up to 20% of your net profit! Most of the free tax software should calculate this for you, but sometimes they miss it. On a $1050 income with expenses, it might not amount to much, but it's still free money!

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Yuki Tanaka

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I had no idea about this! Does this apply even with my small amount of income? And is this in addition to the standard deduction everyone gets?

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Hey Yuki! I went through the exact same situation last year with my first DoorDash 1099-NEC. Here's what worked for me: I ended up using Cash App Taxes (completely free) and it handled everything perfectly. The interface is really user-friendly for beginners and walks you through each step. It automatically calculated my self-employment tax and even caught deductions I hadn't thought of. One thing I wish I had known earlier - start tracking EVERYTHING now for 2025! Not just mileage, but also: - Phone bill percentage (since you use it for the app) - Car maintenance and repairs - Any delivery bags or equipment - Even hand sanitizer if you bought it for work Also, don't stress too much about the self-employment tax calculation - the software does it all for you. With your income level, you're looking at about 15.3% SE tax on your net profit (after expenses), but then you get to deduct half of that SE tax, which reduces your overall tax burden. The whole process took me maybe 2 hours once I had all my documents ready. You've got this!

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This is super helpful, Liam! I'm also new to gig work taxes and had no idea about tracking phone bills or hand sanitizer as deductions. Quick question - when you say "phone bill percentage," how do you figure out what percentage to claim? Do you just estimate how much you use your phone for DoorDash versus personal use, or is there a more official way to calculate it? Also, did Cash App Taxes give you any guidance on what documentation to keep for these expenses, or did you just save all your receipts?

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Adriana Cohn

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Thank you all for the detailed explanations! This has been incredibly helpful. I filed on March 7th with head of household and dependent care credits, so it sounds like I'm right in line with the typical timeline everyone has described. It's reassuring to know that "accepted" really is just the first step and that 2-3 weeks in that status is completely normal, especially with credits that need verification. Based on what Giovanni shared about their March 3rd filing getting approved after 19 days, I'm probably looking at another week or so before seeing any movement. I'll stop obsessively checking the Where's My Refund tool multiple times a day and switch to once every few days like Zainab suggested. This community has been so much more helpful than any of the official IRS resources for understanding what these status updates actually mean!

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I'm so glad this thread helped clarify things for you! I was in the exact same boat when I filed my first return as head of household a few years back - the wait between "accepted" and actually getting processed felt endless, and the IRS resources really don't explain the difference clearly. It's great that you found this community because honestly, hearing from people who've been through the same situation with similar credits is way more reassuring than trying to decode the official IRS language. Best of luck with your return - hopefully you'll see that status change soon!

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I went through this same confusion last year! "Accepted" definitely just means the IRS received your return and it passed their basic automated checks - like your SSN matches their records, the math is correct, and there are no obvious formatting errors. It's basically confirmation that your return made it into their system successfully. The actual review of your deductions, credits, and eligibility happens during the "processing" stage, which comes after accepted. Since you filed as head of household with dependent care credits, those will need to be verified during processing, which typically adds a few extra days to the timeline. I filed with similar credits last year and went from "accepted" to "approved with DDD" after about 21 days total. The IRS tends to batch process returns with certain credits together, so don't worry if it seems to sit in "accepted" status for a while - that's completely normal!

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Lucy Taylor

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This explanation really helps break down the process! I'm new to filing taxes and was getting confused by all the different status terms. Your point about batch processing makes a lot of sense - it would explain why some returns seem to move faster than others even when filed around the same time. I'm curious though, when you say it took 21 days total from accepted to approved, was that 21 calendar days or business days? I filed about 10 days ago and I'm trying to get a realistic sense of when I might see movement.

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Melissa Lin

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Has anyone used TurboTax Self-Employed for their LLC? I'm wondering how picky it is about the comma in the business name field and if it matches that format to all the forms it generates.

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I use TurboTax Self-Employed for my LLC. The software lets you enter your business name exactly as you want it, including commas. Whatever you type in the business info section carries through to all the forms it generates. Just be consistent with what's on your EIN letter.

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Melissa Lin

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Thanks for the info! I'll make sure to enter it exactly as it appears on my EIN letter. I was worried about format inconsistencies causing issues with the IRS matching systems.

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I went through this exact same confusion when I first started my LLC! After dealing with multiple tax forms and even getting a notice from the IRS about a name mismatch (turned out to be unrelated), here's what I learned: The key is to use your business name exactly as it appears on your EIN confirmation letter from the IRS. This is the "official" version they have in their system. If your state registration has the comma but your EIN letter doesn't (or vice versa), go with the EIN letter format for all federal tax documents. I keep a copy of my EIN letter handy whenever I'm filling out tax forms so I can reference the exact spelling and punctuation. It's saved me from second-guessing myself every tax season. The IRS matching systems are looking for consistency with what's in their database, not necessarily what your state has on file. For what it's worth, I've never heard of anyone getting into trouble specifically over comma placement - it's usually bigger discrepancies like completely different business names or missing the LLC designation entirely.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm just getting started with my LLC and I was wondering - when you say "EIN confirmation letter," are you referring to the CP575 notice that the IRS sends after you apply for an EIN? Or is there a different document I should be looking for? I want to make sure I'm using the right reference document for my business name formatting.

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This has been such a helpful discussion! I'm a new landlord (just bought my first rental property 6 months ago) and I've been putting off dealing with my refinancing costs because I was so confused about the tax treatment. Reading through everyone's experiences, especially the breakdown about Section B vs Section C on the closing disclosure, finally makes this manageable. I refinanced right after purchasing to get a better rate, so I have about $4,200 in closing costs that I now know how to properly categorize. One thing I'm curious about - for those of you who have been doing this longer, do you use specific software or spreadsheets to track all these amortization schedules? With a 30-year loan, keeping track of the monthly amortization amounts over decades seems like it could get unwieldy, especially if you refinance multiple times like some of you have mentioned. Also, when you're doing your annual tax prep, do most tax preparers understand these nuances about rental property refinancing costs, or do you find you need to educate them? I want to make sure whoever I work with next tax season knows what they're doing with investment property taxes.

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Mei Chen

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Welcome to the rental property world! For tracking amortization schedules, I personally use a simple Excel spreadsheet with separate tabs for each refinance. I set up formulas to calculate the monthly amortization amounts automatically, so I just need to reference it each year when doing taxes. Some people use property management software like Buildium or Rent Manager that can track this stuff, but honestly a well-organized spreadsheet works just fine. Regarding tax preparers - this is hit or miss unfortunately. Many general tax preparers don't deal with rental properties regularly and may not fully understand the refinancing cost nuances we've discussed here. I'd recommend specifically looking for a CPA or EA (Enrolled Agent) who advertises experience with real estate investors. When interviewing potential preparers, ask them specifically about how they handle refinancing costs for rental properties - their answer will tell you quickly if they know their stuff. Don't be afraid to educate your preparer if needed! Bring documentation like your closing disclosure with your own notes about which costs should be amortized vs added to basis. A good tax professional will appreciate your preparation and organization.

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Great question about tracking software! I've been managing rental properties for about 5 years now and went through several different approaches before finding what works for me. I started with Excel but found it got messy when I had multiple properties and refinances to track. Now I use QuickBooks for Rental Properties - it has built-in features for tracking loan amortization and can automatically calculate the monthly amounts to deduct. The initial setup takes some time, but once it's configured, it handles the calculations and even reminds you about the deductions at tax time. For tax preparers, I echo what @Mei Chen said - definitely find someone who specializes in real estate. I learned this the hard way when my first tax preparer incorrectly added all my refinancing costs to basis instead of amortizing them. Had to file an amended return and pay additional taxes plus penalties. Now I work with a CPA who has about 30% of her practice focused on real estate investors, and she actually catches things I miss sometimes. One tip: before your first meeting with a new tax preparer, ask them to walk you through how they would handle a hypothetical refinancing scenario for a rental property. If they mention amortizing loan costs over the loan term, you know they understand the basics!

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This thread has been incredibly educational! I'm dealing with a similar situation - just refinanced my rental duplex and have been stressing about how to handle the $5,400 in closing costs. The Section B vs Section C breakdown on the closing disclosure is genius - I never would have thought to categorize it that way. Just went back and looked at mine: most of my costs ($4,100) are in Section B (loan origination, processing fees, etc.) so those need to be amortized over 30 years. But I do have about $1,300 in Section C costs (title insurance, recording fees) that can potentially be added to my cost basis. One follow-up question: if you pay discount points to buy down your interest rate during a refinance, do those always have to be amortized? Or are there any circumstances where points can be deducted immediately for rental properties? I paid $2,000 in points and I'm hoping there might be some way to accelerate that deduction since it was specifically to reduce my ongoing financing costs. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - this is exactly the kind of practical guidance you can't easily find elsewhere!

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Miguel Silva

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Great question about discount points! Unfortunately, for rental properties, discount points generally must be amortized over the life of the loan just like other loan origination costs, even though they're paid upfront to reduce your interest rate. This is different from owner-occupied properties where points can sometimes be deducted immediately. For investment properties, the IRS treats points as prepaid interest that needs to be spread out over the loan term. So your $2,000 in points would be amortized over 30 years, giving you about $67 per year in deductions. The one exception would be if you use the property as your primary residence for part of the year (like if you live in one unit of your duplex), but even then it gets complicated with partial deductions. I know it's frustrating to pay that much upfront and not get the immediate tax benefit, but remember that when you eventually pay off the loan (either through refinancing again or selling), any remaining unamortized points can be deducted in full that year. Plus, the lower interest rate you got will save you money every month, which is the real benefit of paying points in the first place. Your categorization using Section B vs C sounds spot-on though - you're definitely on the right track with how to handle everything else!

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