IRS

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Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

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Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Carmen Ruiz

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Something nobody's mentioned yet - have you checked if your country has a tax treaty with the US? That can sometimes affect your filing requirements regardless of resident/nonresident status. I'm from India, and certain income is taxed differently because of the treaty.

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NebulaNomad

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I haven't checked that! My home country is Malaysia - would that make a difference even if I'm determined to be a nonresident alien? And how do I find out what the specific treaty provisions are?

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Carmen Ruiz

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Yes, tax treaties can definitely make a difference! Malaysia does have a tax treaty with the US, and it can affect how certain types of income are taxed even as a nonresident. The IRS has Publication 901 (US Tax Treaties) that summarizes the provisions, but they're not always easy to understand. The treaty might give you special treatment for scholarships, fellowships, or certain types of income. You can find the basics on the IRS website, but the actual treaty text is more detailed. When you file your taxes, you'd need to fill out Form 8833 to claim any treaty benefits.

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Has anyone used Sprintax for filing as a nonresident F-1 student? My university recommends it over TurboTax for international students.

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I used Sprintax last year as an F-1 student and it was pretty good. It's specifically designed for nonresident aliens so it asks all the right questions about visa type, entry dates, and tax treaties. It's a bit pricey compared to some other options but the peace of mind was worth it for me.

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GalaxyGlider

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Most likely it's in how they're handling your state taxes. I've used both programs and noticed TurboTax tends to be more aggressive with certain deductions while FreeTaxUSA is more conservative. I'd suggest this approach: 1. Look at federal AGI on both - are they the same? 2. Check if fed tax owed is identical 3. If those match, it's in the state calculation 4. If those don't match, compare Schedule A if you itemize For what it's worth, I've been using FreeTaxUSA for years and they've always been accurate for me.

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Do you think it's worth paying the extra for TurboTax if it finds extra deductions? I'm on the fence about which to use this year.

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GalaxyGlider

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Not necessarily. If TurboTax is showing a bigger refund, it's not always because it's finding legitimate extra deductions - it could be calculating something incorrectly. I've found FreeTaxUSA to be more accurate overall, especially for state taxes. Remember that paying more for tax software doesn't guarantee a bigger refund. It's about which software correctly applies the tax laws to your specific situation. If your return is fairly straightforward, FreeTaxUSA will likely give you the right result at a much lower price point.

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Has anyone checked line 30 on Form 1040 (Recovery Rebate Credit) on both returns? That was the source of discrepancy for me last year - one software automatically calculated it correctly while the other one needed manual input.

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That's actually a really good point. I had the same issue with the Recovery Rebate Credit two years ago. TurboTax asked me to manually enter what stimulus payments I received while FreeTaxUSA pulled it automatically from IRS records.

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One thing nobody mentioned - check if your parents are still claiming you as a dependent! If they are, it affects what deductions you can take. My first year working I screwed this up because my parents claimed me (I lived with them for 5 months that year) and I also claimed myself. Created a huge headache!

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Thanks for bringing this up! I did check with my parents and they're not claiming me anymore since I've been fully supporting myself since graduation. But that's definitely something I wouldn't have thought about before reading your comment. How do you know whether someone can claim you as a dependent? Is there like an age cutoff or income limit?

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There's actually a few tests the IRS uses. For a "qualifying child" dependent, you need to be under 19 (or under 24 if you're a student) and live with your parents for more than half the year. There's also a support test - if you provided more than half of your own financial support during the year, then your parents can't claim you, regardless of age or living situation. Since you mentioned you've been fully supporting yourself, you're definitely not a dependent anymore. It's definitely something that causes confusion that first year of independence! Glad you already sorted it out with your parents.

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Ethan Moore

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Everyone's focusing on standard vs itemized, but don't sleep on tax credits! Unlike deductions that just reduce your taxable income, credits directly reduce your tax bill dollar for dollar. The education credits are huge for new grads - American Opportunity Credit (up to $2,500) if you were in school part of the year, or Lifetime Learning Credit (up to $2,000) for your certification courses. These are WAY more valuable than deductions.

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This is the best advice here. When I was a new grad, I missed out on the American Opportunity Credit my first year because I didn't realize I could claim it for my final semester. That was literally $1,500 down the drain! Also check if your state has additional credits. In California, I got a renter's credit that most of my friends didn't know about.

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Thanks for this! I was in school for the spring semester before graduating in May, so I'll definitely look into the American Opportunity Credit. I had no idea there was a difference between credits and deductions until reading these comments. Do software programs like TurboTax automatically check for these credits, or do I need to specifically know to look for them? I'm worried about missing something important now.

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Ella Lewis

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Just wanted to add my experience - I had the same situation with Schwab last year (code 1 instead of code 2 on my 1099-R for Backdoor Roth). I called them and they refused to change it, saying it was coded correctly according to their systems. I filed with the form as-is, making sure my 8606 was perfect, and never heard anything from the IRS. No audit, no penalties, nothing. I think the financial institutions and the IRS aren't perfectly aligned on how these codes should be used, but as long as your 8606 correctly shows what happened, you're protected.

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Sophia Long

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Thanks for sharing your experience! That's really reassuring. Did you keep any documentation from Schwab about them refusing to change it, just in case?

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Ella Lewis

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I didn't keep any specific documentation from the call, but I did make notes for myself with the date/time and representative's name. I also downloaded and saved a copy of my 1099-R and 8606 in case I needed to reference them later. In retrospect, I probably should have asked for something in writing, but it all worked out fine. If you're really concerned, you could email Vanguard so you have a written response from them explaining why they used code 1.

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One more thing to consider - the IRS has gotten a lot better at recognizing Backdoor Roth conversions in recent years since they've become so popular. Their systems are more sophisticated than they used to be. I think 5 years ago this might have been more likely to trigger an issue, but now their computers are probably programmed to cross-check these scenarios specifically. Still good to be cautious and keep your documentation though!

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Has anyone heard about any updates to this process with the new tax bill? I just did my first Backdoor Roth this year and I'm nervous about doing the paperwork right.

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Something important that hasn't been mentioned: the timing! If you repay within the same tax year as the overpayment, your employer can just adjust your W-2. But since you're repaying in a different tax year, you'll need to handle it on your tax return using what's called "claim of right" provisions. Basically, you have two options: 1. Take an itemized deduction on Schedule A for the repayment 2. Claim a tax credit for the amount of taxes you paid on that income Option 2 is usually better if the amount is significant. See IRS Publication 525 under "Repayments" for the details. Keep all documentation from your employer about both the overpayment and your repayment.

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Jibriel Kohn

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Do you know if this applies to independent contractors too? I had a client overpay me on a 1099 job, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to handle repaying them.

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Yes, these claim of right provisions apply to independent contractors as well. The process is similar, but there are some differences since you received a 1099 instead of a W-2. For 1099 income, when you repay in a later year, you'll still use the same two options (deduction vs. credit), but the documentation is slightly different. Make sure you get a corrected 1099 from the client if possible, or at minimum a receipt documenting that you repaid the overpayment. This helps establish that you're not trying to double-dip by both keeping the money and claiming a tax benefit.

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Wait I'm confused... everyone's saying to repay the full amount including taxes, but isn't that basically paying taxes twice? Once when they originally withheld it and again when paying back money you never received?

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You're not paying taxes twice because you get to claim the tax portion back on your tax return. You repay the gross amount to the employer, then the IRS essentially "refunds" the tax portion to you when you file your return and claim it properly. It feels like paying twice in the moment, but it all balances out when you complete your taxes. The system is set up this way because your employer already reported the full amount to the IRS, and they need their books to match what they reported.

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