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Has anyone had issues with FreeTax USA calculating capital gains incorrectly? I manually entered my ETrade 1099-B info last year and my calculated tax seemed way off compared to what ETrade's tax summary showed.

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This usually happens because of wash sale adjustments or if you didn't properly classify long-term vs short-term gains. When you enter the data manually, it's easy to make small errors that compound. FreeTax USA's calculations are generally accurate, but garbage in = garbage out. Double check that your cost basis method matches what's on your ETrade forms, and that you've properly accounted for any wash sales that ETrade has flagged.

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The Boss

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I've been using FreeTax USA for about 4 years now and while it doesn't have direct import from ETrade like TurboTax does, I've found a pretty efficient workflow for handling my investment income. For your 50+ transactions, definitely use the summary method that was mentioned earlier. ETrade actually provides a tax summary document along with your 1099-B that groups transactions by holding period and acquisition dates. You can use this to enter blocks of transactions rather than each individual trade. Also, make sure you're using ETrade's "Gain/Loss Realized" report which you can download as a CSV. While FreeTax USA can't import it directly, you can at least copy/paste chunks of data rather than typing everything from scratch. Just be extra careful about wash sales - ETrade marks them clearly but you need to make sure FreeTax USA applies the adjustments correctly. The time savings vs TurboTax fees has been totally worth it for me, even with the extra manual work.

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Mason Lopez

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Thanks for the detailed workflow! This is really helpful. I'm curious though - when you use ETrade's "Gain/Loss Realized" report, do you find that FreeTax USA's wash sale calculations match up exactly with what ETrade shows? I've heard some people mention discrepancies and I want to make sure I don't mess anything up on my first year switching from TurboTax. Also, do you happen to know if there's a limit to how many transactions you can group together in the summary method? With 50+ trades, I'm hoping I can consolidate them into just a few summary entries.

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Wait I'm confused - I thought home office deduction was part of itemizing? So if I take standard deduction I can't claim my home office for my sole proprietorship? I've been doing this wrong for years then!

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Carmen Ruiz

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You're actually mixing up two different home office deductions! There's the employee home office deduction (which was suspended until 2026 and would have been part of itemizing) and the business home office deduction for self-employed people like you. As a sole proprietor, you claim your home office on Form 8829 or the simplified method on Schedule C. This is completely separate from the standard deduction vs. itemizing decision. You can absolutely take the standard deduction AND still deduct your home office as a business expense if you're self-employed.

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This is such a common misconception! I went through the exact same confusion when I started my consulting business. The key thing to remember is that Schedule C business expenses and the standard deduction operate on completely different "levels" of your tax return. Think of it like this: Schedule C calculates your net business profit (gross income minus business expenses), and that net profit number flows to Line 3 of your Form 1040. Then, much later in the process, you decide whether to take the standard deduction or itemize your personal deductions. So yes, absolutely organize those receipts and track your business expenses! Every legitimate business expense reduces both your income tax AND your self-employment tax (which is 15.3% on net earnings). Even if your business has slowed down, those deductions are still valuable. For your accountant, provide everything you mentioned: all 1099s/W2s, organized business expenses by category, and your investment statements. Since you have a Solo 401k, make sure to include any contributions you made there too - those are also deductible regardless of whether you itemize or take the standard deduction.

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Ethan Clark

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This explanation really helped clarify things for me! I'm new to being self-employed and was totally confused about how business deductions work with the standard deduction. One follow-up question - you mentioned Solo 401k contributions are deductible regardless of standard vs itemized. Where exactly does that deduction show up on the tax return? Is that also on Schedule C or somewhere else on Form 1040? I'm trying to make sure I understand all the different "buckets" of deductions so I don't miss anything when I prepare my info for my accountant.

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Amina Diop

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Quick question - if I only made like $300 total from casual trading, do I still need to file all these extra forms? Seems like a lot of work for so little money.

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Oliver Weber

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Yes, legally you need to report ANY capital gains regardless of amount. The $300 is still taxable income. The good news is that if your total taxable income is low enough, your capital gains rate might be 0%. But you still need to report it.

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Kolton Murphy

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@Sofia Gutierrez - Yes, you absolutely need to report all your trading activity! Since you made $2,800 in gains and had $1,200 in losses, your net gain of $1,600 is definitely taxable income that must be reported. The key thing to understand is that it doesn't matter whether you withdrew the money or not - the IRS considers the trades "realized" the moment you sell, regardless of whether the cash stays in your brokerage account. Your brokerage should have sent you Form 1099-B which summarizes all your trades. You'll use this to fill out Schedule D (Capital Gains and Losses) and potentially Form 8949. The good news is you don't need to list every single trade individually on your return if your 1099-B shows all the required information - you can usually summarize them into categories. One important thing to watch out for: if you sold any stocks at a loss and then bought the same or "substantially identical" stocks within 30 days, you might have wash sales which can disallow some of your losses. Your 1099-B should show these adjustments if they apply. Since this is your first year dealing with this, consider using tax software that can import your 1099-B directly, or consult with a tax professional if the forms seem too overwhelming. Better to get it right than risk issues with the IRS later!

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This is really helpful! I'm also new to trading and had similar concerns about reporting requirements. One follow-up question - you mentioned that we can summarize trades into categories instead of listing each one individually. How exactly do we determine what qualifies as "substantially identical" for wash sale purposes? Like if I sold Apple stock at a loss and then bought an Apple ETF a week later, would that trigger the wash sale rule?

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Riya Sharma

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I just want to warn everyone not to skip reporting crypto, even if you think the IRS won't know. I did that in 2021 because I had a small loss and didn't get any tax forms, and I got a CP2000 notice last year saying I owed taxes plus penalties. Apparently my exchange DID report my transactions to the IRS using some form I never received. Had to pay about $800 more than I would have if I'd just reported correctly in the first place. Don't make my mistake!

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Which exchange was this? I'm using Kraken and haven't received any forms from them despite trading over $10k in crypto last year.

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Ruby Knight

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Just to reinforce what others have said - yes, you absolutely need to file Form 8949 even without a 1099-B. I'm a tax preparer and see this situation constantly with crypto clients. The key thing to understand is that cryptocurrency transactions are treated as property sales by the IRS, so every sale triggers a taxable event regardless of whether you received tax documents. Your $3,200 loss is actually valuable - it can offset other capital gains or up to $3,000 of ordinary income. For H&R Block, when it asks about the 1099-B, select "transactions not reported on Form 1099-B" and check box C on Form 8949. You'll need to manually enter each transaction with purchase date, sale date, proceeds, and cost basis. Keep detailed records of all your transactions - the IRS is increasingly focused on crypto compliance and many exchanges do report to them even if they don't send you forms. Don't risk an audit by not reporting. The penalties for underreporting are much worse than the time it takes to fill out the form properly.

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Vera Visnjic

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This is really helpful advice from a professional perspective! I'm new to crypto and taxes and honestly feeling overwhelmed by all this. When you say "keep detailed records," what exactly should I be tracking? I've been using multiple exchanges and sometimes moving crypto between wallets - do I need to document every single transfer too, or just the actual buy/sell transactions? Also, is there a simple way to calculate cost basis if I've been dollar-cost averaging into Bitcoin over several months?

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Vince Eh

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This entire thread has been a lifesaver! I'm doing my taxes for the first time ever and was completely panicking when I saw all these cryptic entries in Box 14 on my W-2. I literally spent two hours googling "what is Box 14" and getting more confused by conflicting information. The systematic approach that Ezra mentioned is exactly what I needed - check if software prompts for it, look for state codes, and when in doubt leave it out. I was definitely falling into the trap of trying to enter everything "just to be safe" which would have probably caused more problems. I just went through my W-2 again with this new framework and it's so much clearer now. My "HEALTH" and "DENTAL" entries are obviously just informational employer contributions, and my "401K" entry is just showing me the total I contributed (already reflected in reduced Box 1 wages). But I did catch a "CA-SDI" entry that I almost overlooked - glad I know to look for those state abbreviations now! It's honestly ridiculous that the IRS doesn't provide clearer guidance on this stuff. Box 14 feels like it was designed to confuse people. Thank you all for breaking it down in plain English and sharing your real experiences instead of just pointing to incomprehensible IRS publications!

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Welcome to the tax-filing club! Your experience sounds exactly like mine when I first encountered Box 14 - I think we've all been through that "googling for hours and getting more confused" phase. It's honestly a rite of passage for anyone brave enough to do their own taxes! You nailed it with the systematic approach - it really does turn what feels like an impossible puzzle into something manageable. And good catch on that CA-SDI entry! Those state disability insurance deductions are so easy to miss but can actually save you real money on your state return. Your point about the IRS guidance (or lack thereof) is spot on. For something that appears on basically every W-2, you'd think they'd provide clearer instructions about what actually matters vs. what's just informational clutter. At least we've got communities like this where people share practical advice instead of pointing to those indecipherable tax code publications! Sounds like you've got a solid handle on it now though. The fact that you went back through with the new framework and could clearly distinguish between the informational stuff and the actionable CA-SDI entry shows you totally get it. You're going to do great on your first self-filed return!

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Noah Irving

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This thread has been absolutely invaluable! I'm also a first-time self-filer and was getting completely overwhelmed by Box 14 entries. I had no idea that most of them are just informational - I was trying to find a place to enter every single item in my tax software and getting frustrated when nothing seemed to fit. The distinction between informational items (like employer health premiums) and actionable state-specific deductions (like SDI/SUI entries) is a game-changer. I just reviewed my W-2 with this new understanding and found entries for "HEALTH $2,400" and "LIFE $180" which are clearly just employer benefit reporting, plus a "NJ-SUI $150" that I now know I should actually enter for my state return. It's crazy how much anxiety Box 14 was causing me when most of it literally doesn't need to go anywhere on the tax return! The systematic approach everyone outlined - let your software guide you, look for state abbreviations, and when in doubt leave informational stuff out - makes this so much more manageable. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences and practical tips. This community is so much more helpful than trying to decipher IRS instructions or generic tax advice websites!

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