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This is such a helpful thread! I've been dealing with a similar situation with my C corp consulting business. One thing I'd add is that beyond just the IRS considerations, banks and lenders also look at your salary when evaluating business loans or lines of credit. I learned this the hard way when I tried to get a business loan last year with a very low salary relative to my company's profits. The underwriter questioned whether my low salary indicated that the business wasn't actually generating sustainable income or if I was manipulating compensation for tax reasons. They wanted to see a more "normal" salary-to-profit ratio before approving the loan. So while you might be able to legally minimize your salary from a tax perspective, it could impact your ability to get business financing down the road. Something to consider in your overall compensation strategy, especially if you're planning to expand or need working capital in the future. For what it's worth, your current $125k salary on $430k in business income seems like a reasonable balance that shows both tax efficiency and business legitimacy to potential lenders or investors.

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Adriana Cohn

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That's a really valuable perspective about the lending implications! I hadn't thought about how salary structure could affect future financing opportunities. As someone new to running a C corp, it's helpful to understand that these compensation decisions have ripple effects beyond just tax optimization. Your point about the $125k salary on $430k revenue seeming reasonable really resonates with what others have shared in this thread. It sounds like there's a sweet spot where you're being tax efficient without creating red flags for the IRS, lenders, or other stakeholders who might evaluate your business structure. Thanks for sharing your experience with the loan underwriter - that's exactly the kind of real-world insight that's hard to find in generic tax advice articles. Did you end up adjusting your salary structure after that experience, or were you able to work with the lender using other documentation?

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Arjun Patel

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As a tax professional who's worked with hundreds of C corp clients over the past decade, I can confirm what several others have mentioned - the "reasonable compensation" rules are indeed applied very differently for C corps versus S corps. The key distinction is that with S corps, the IRS aggressively pursues cases where owner-employees pay themselves too little salary (to avoid SE taxes), while with C corps, they're generally more concerned with excessive compensation that reduces corporate taxable income. For your situation with $430k in business income and a $125k salary, you're actually in a very defensible position. That's roughly a 29% salary-to-revenue ratio, which aligns well with industry standards for professional services businesses. A few practical considerations for your decision: 1) Maintaining adequate salary protects your Social Security benefits calculation 2) Higher salary allows for better retirement plan contributions (401k, etc.) 3) Consistent salary structure helps establish business legitimacy for potential audits While you technically could reduce your salary significantly without violating specific C corp rules, your current structure provides good balance between tax efficiency and business credibility. I'd recommend documenting your salary determination with industry compensation surveys to support your position if ever questioned.

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This is incredibly helpful professional insight! As someone who's been trying to navigate these waters mostly through online research and conflicting accountant advice, having concrete percentages and industry benchmarks is exactly what I needed. Your point about the 29% salary-to-revenue ratio being defensible really puts things in perspective. I was getting stressed about whether $125k was too high or too low, but it sounds like I'm actually in a good spot that balances multiple considerations beyond just tax optimization. The reminder about Social Security benefits is particularly valuable - I hadn't really considered how artificially low salaries now could impact my benefits calculation down the road. At 35, I still have 30+ years until retirement, so maintaining a reasonable salary track record probably makes sense for long-term planning. Do you have any specific recommendations for industry compensation surveys that would be most credible if I ever needed to document my salary determination? I want to make sure I'm using sources the IRS would find legitimate.

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Amun-Ra Azra

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I completely understand your frustration! The W4 Multiple Jobs Worksheet is notoriously conservative and often results in excessive withholding, especially for part-time second jobs like yours. Here's what I'd recommend: For your main full-time job, fill out the W4 completely with all your filing status, dependents, and deductions. This should be your "anchor" W4 that does most of the heavy lifting for your tax situation. For your part-time job, try this simpler approach: Just check the box in Step 2(c) "There are only two jobs total" and leave everything else standard. This will withhold at higher single rates but should be much more reasonable than the $95 the worksheet calculated. If you want to be more precise, you can also use the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator online (it's the official IRS tool) which handles multiple jobs much better than the paper worksheet. It'll give you specific dollar amounts to enter in Step 4(c) of each W4. The key thing to remember is that the worksheet assumes worst-case scenarios. With only 15 hours per week, you're probably looking at maybe $20-40 per paycheck in additional withholding, not half your pay! Don't let the intimidating worksheet discourage you from earning that extra income.

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Caleb Stark

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This is really helpful advice! I'm new to having multiple jobs and was also confused about the W4 process. One quick question - when you mention the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator, do you need to update it regularly throughout the year, or is it more of a one-time setup? I'm wondering how often I should be checking to make sure my withholding is still on track, especially since my part-time hours might vary from week to week.

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@0b90cf49d9d3 Great question! I'd recommend checking the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator quarterly or whenever there's a significant change in your income/hours. Since your part-time hours vary, you might want to use an average weekly amount when inputting your estimated annual income. The nice thing about the estimator is it accounts for what you've already had withheld year-to-date, so it can adjust recommendations mid-year. I usually check mine in January (after setting up initial W4s), mid-year around June/July, and then once more in October to see if any year-end adjustments are needed. If your part-time hours are really inconsistent, you could also just err slightly on the side of over-withholding from your main job and get a small refund rather than trying to perfectly calibrate both W4s throughout the year. Much less stressful than constantly adjusting!

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I was in the exact same boat last year with my weekend retail job! The Multiple Jobs Worksheet had me withholding like $80 per paycheck from a job that only paid $150. It was ridiculous. Here's what actually worked for me: I ignored the worksheet completely and used a much simpler approach. For my main job, I filled out the W4 normally with all my standard deductions and credits. For the part-time job, I just put "Single" as filing status and left everything else blank - no extra withholding calculations. At the end of the year, I ended up owing about $200 in taxes, which was totally manageable compared to having hundreds of dollars over-withheld throughout the year. The key is that your combined withholding from both jobs just needs to cover your total tax liability - it doesn't have to be perfectly calculated from each individual paycheck. If you're worried about owing too much, you could always add like $20-30 per paycheck to your main job's W4 in Step 4(c) instead of letting the part-time job take half your pay. Way more reasonable and you still get to actually benefit from the extra work you're putting in!

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This approach makes so much sense! I've been overthinking this whole W4 situation. The idea of just using standard withholding on the part-time job and maybe adding a small buffer to the main job's W4 sounds way more practical than the worksheet's crazy calculations. Quick question though - when you say you owed about $200 at tax time, was that because you didn't withhold enough from the part-time job, or just normal tax planning? I'm trying to figure out if owing a small amount is actually better than having too much withheld throughout the year. Thanks for sharing your real-world experience with this!

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Jamal Brown

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@1d7e1b2e59d8 The $200 I owed was specifically because my part-time job's standard withholding wasn't quite enough to cover the additional tax liability from that income. But honestly, owing $200 vs having $1,000+ over-withheld throughout the year was a no-brainer for me. Think about it this way - if they had taken an extra $80 per paycheck from my part-time job (26 paychecks), that would have been over $2,000 over-withheld! I'd rather owe $200 and have had access to that extra $1,800 throughout the year. The general rule is as long as you don't owe more than $1,000 at tax time (and you've paid at least 90% of your current year tax or 100% of last year's tax through withholding), you won't face any penalties. So a small amount owed is totally fine and often better than over-withholding, especially when you're working extra jobs specifically to have more cash flow.

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Need Help with Form 8889 Part 1 for HSA Contributions with Separate HDHP Plans

My husband and I each have our own separate HDHP plans that have stayed the same all year. We both have single coverage for ourselves individually, and we've set up our own HSAs. We've contributed $4,600 to each of our HSAs for a total of $9,200 between us. I'm doing a separate Form 8889 for each of us, then adding up line 13 from both forms to put on line 13 of our Form 1040 Schedule 1. I've got two issues I'm confused about: 1. On line 2, I put 0 because all my contributions were through payroll deduction. I entered the full $4,600 on line 9. But this makes line 13 come out to 0 since all contributions were via payroll. I'm definitely misunderstanding something because I thought I'd get a tax deduction based on my contribution amount. Like if my salary is $65k and I put $4,600 in the HSA, shouldn't my taxable income be $60,400? The way I'm filling it out makes it seem like if I contributed through payroll, all $65k is taxable because I don't get any deduction. 2. For lines 3 and 5, should I be entering $9,200 (our combined total) or $4,600 (just my individual amount)? I understand line 6 should be $4,600 either way. To make things even more confusing, I used TaxSlayer last year, so I checked my 2021 return to see how they handled this. They put $14,398 on line 3! I don't think there's any situation where it should be higher than $7,200, since that was the contribution limit last year. Can someone please explain what I'm missing here?

Nalani Liu

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Is anyone else annoyed that there's no clear instructions about this on Form 8889?? Like nowhere does it explicitly say "if your contributions were made through payroll, you don't get a deduction on line 13 because you already got the benefit." I've been doing this wrong for 3 YEARS!

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Axel Bourke

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The IRS instructions actually do explain this, but it's buried in a lot of text. On page 2 of the Form 8889 instructions it says: "Employer contributions (including contributions through a cafeteria plan) to your HSAs aren't included in income." That's their way of saying it's already tax-free.

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I completely understand your confusion - this is one of the most common HSA tax issues! Let me break this down clearly: **Issue #1:** You're absolutely RIGHT that your taxable income should be $60,400 if you contributed $4,600 through payroll. The key is that you've ALREADY received this benefit! When HSA contributions are made through payroll deduction, they're excluded from your gross wages before your W-2 is even created. So your W-2 Box 1 should show $60,400, not $65,000. The zero on line 13 is correct because you don't need an additional deduction - you already got the tax benefit upfront. **Issue #2:** Lines 3 and 5 should show YOUR individual contribution limit of $4,600, not the combined $9,200. Each spouse fills out their own Form 8889 with their own limits. You're correct that line 6 should be $4,600. **The TaxSlayer mystery:** That $14,398 is definitely wrong! Sounds like the software may have incorrectly included health insurance premiums or other amounts that don't belong on Form 8889. The 2021 limit for individual coverage was only $3,600, so there's no way it should be that high unless there were catch-up contributions or rollovers involved. Double-check your W-2 Box 1 - I bet you'll find it's already reduced by your HSA contributions!

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This is such a helpful explanation! I had no idea that payroll HSA contributions were already excluded from Box 1 wages. I've been stressing about this for weeks thinking I was missing out on a deduction. Quick question though - what if my employer made matching contributions to my HSA? Do those show up anywhere on my tax forms, or are they just automatically excluded too? I see a separate amount on my HSA statement that says "employer contribution" but I'm not sure how that affects my taxes. Also, is there any way to verify that my W-2 is correct? Like if my gross salary was $65k but I contributed $4,600 through payroll, should I specifically look for Box 1 to show $60,400?

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Emily Sanjay

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One more thing to consider - if either of you have student loans, filing jointly might affect income-based repayment plans since they'll look at your combined income. Something to think about if she's got loans and is on an IBR plan.

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This is super important! My wife and I found this out the hard way. Our payments jumped by $190/month after our first year of marriage because my income got counted. Depending on your situation, it might sometimes be worth running the numbers both ways (joint vs separate) to see which works best.

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Javier Cruz

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Just wanted to add something that might help with your decision-making process. Since you mentioned using TurboTax before, you'll find that most tax software (including TurboTax) will actually run calculations for both filing jointly and separately, then recommend whichever saves you more money. In your case, with your $58k income and her $9.2k income, filing jointly will almost certainly be better because: 1. You'll get the higher standard deduction ($29,200 vs $14,600 each if filing separately) 2. Your combined income will likely keep you in lower tax brackets overall 3. You'll have access to more credits and deductions that phase out for separate filers The "dependent" confusion is totally understandable - it's one of the most common misconceptions for newlyweds. The tax code treats marriage as creating a partnership, not a dependency relationship. You're both equal partners in the return, even if one person earns significantly more. Good luck with your first married filing! The software will walk you through everything step by step.

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This is really helpful! As someone who just got married last month, I'm already dreading tax season next year. It's reassuring to know that the software will actually compare both options for you - I had no idea that was a feature. One question though - when you say "access to more credits and deductions that phase out for separate filers," can you give an example? I'm trying to understand what we might be missing out on if we filed separately by mistake.

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Nora Brooks

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I'm a tax professional and see situations like this regularly. The key issue isn't whether your sister opened a separate trust account - it's proper documentation and tax reporting. What you should focus on is ensuring the trust files Form 1041 using its own EIN, and that your K-1 accurately reflects your share of trust income. The house sale proceeds should be reported on the trust return, not on anyone's personal return. Even though the money flowed through your sister's personal account, the trust is still the legal entity that owned and sold the property. Request a copy of the trust's tax return before it's filed so you can verify everything looks correct. Also ask to see the calculation showing how your distribution was determined - this protects both of you if there are ever questions later. While your sister's approach creates more paperwork complications, as long as she maintains proper records and reports everything correctly, you should be fine tax-wise. Just make sure you report exactly what's on your K-1 when you file your personal return.

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Amina Diallo

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As someone new to trust issues, this professional perspective is really helpful. I've been getting overwhelmed by all the different aspects people have mentioned, but you're right that the core issue is proper tax reporting rather than which bank account was used. Your point about requesting a copy of the trust's tax return before filing is something I hadn't thought of - that seems like a reasonable ask that would give me confidence everything is being handled correctly. And seeing the distribution calculation would definitely help me understand how my portion was determined. One question: if the trust doesn't have its own EIN and my sister has been using her SSN for everything, how big of a problem is that? Should I be pushing her to get an EIN now, or is it too late if she's already received the 1099-S and other documents under her social security number? I'm hoping to approach her this weekend with a collaborative tone rather than an accusatory one, and having specific, reasonable requests like these makes that conversation feel much more doable. Thanks for the professional insight - it's reassuring to hear from someone who deals with these situations regularly.

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AstroAce

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I'm a CPA who specializes in trust and estate taxation, and I want to address your EIN question directly since it's critical for proper reporting. If your sister has been using her SSN instead of the trust's EIN, that's a significant problem that needs immediate correction. Trusts are required to have their own EIN for tax reporting purposes - using the trustee's SSN essentially means the trust income is being reported as the trustee's personal income, which is completely incorrect. The good news is it's not too late to fix this. She can apply for an EIN online at the IRS website (it takes about 15 minutes), and then contact the entities that issued tax documents to request corrected forms with the proper EIN. For the 1099-S specifically, she should contact the closing company/title company to request a corrected form showing the trust as the seller with the trust's new EIN. Most will cooperate since they want their records to be accurate too. This correction is essential because without it, the IRS will expect to see this income on her personal tax return, creating a massive tax liability she doesn't actually owe. Meanwhile, the trust won't be filing its required return, which can trigger penalties and interest. Don't let her brush this off as "unnecessary paperwork" - proper entity separation is fundamental to trust administration and tax compliance.

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