I went through this exact situation last year and want to share what I learned after talking to a tax professional. The key thing to understand is that the 1099-K is just an information document - it doesn't automatically create taxable income. Here's what I did and what worked: 1. **Created a simple spreadsheet** with columns for: Item description, approximate purchase date, estimated original cost, sale price, and net loss. For items without receipts, I used reasonable estimates based on what similar items cost when I likely bought them. 2. **Used online resources** to verify reasonable original prices. For electronics, sites like Amazon price history or manufacturer MSRP data helped establish credible original values. For clothing, I looked at brand retail prices from the approximate purchase timeframe. 3. **Kept all eBay communications** - saved my listing descriptions, final sale prices, and any buyer messages that might help establish the personal nature of the items. 4. **Documented the personal use** - I noted in my spreadsheet how long I owned each item and that they were used personally, not held for investment or business purposes. The IRS understands that people clean out their homes and rarely make a profit on used personal items. As long as you're reasonable and honest with your estimates, you should be fine. The burden would be on them to prove your estimates were unreasonable, which is difficult for typical household items. Don't stress too much about perfect documentation - just be prepared to show these were legitimate personal items sold at a loss.

This is such a timely question - I just went through this exact situation! I sold about $1,800 worth of personal items on eBay this year (old video games, clothes, books, etc.) and was panicking about the 1099-K. Here's what I learned after doing a ton of research and talking to a tax preparer: **The 1099-K is NOT a tax bill** - it's just reporting what payment processors paid you. It doesn't mean that amount is taxable income. **For your specific questions:** 1. **Proving personal items sold at loss**: Create a simple spreadsheet showing item descriptions, estimated original purchase prices, sale prices, and the loss on each item. The IRS expects "reasonable estimates" - you don't need perfect precision. 2. **Original receipts**: You don't need receipts for everything. For items without receipts, document reasonable estimates based on typical retail prices when you purchased them. For example, if you sold a 2019 iPhone for $300, you can reasonably estimate it cost $800+ new. 3. **1099-K breakdown**: No, the 1099-K will just show your total gross payments. But you can download detailed sales reports from eBay that show individual transactions. **My approach**: I made a spreadsheet with columns for item, purchase year, estimated original cost, sale price, and net loss. For items I couldn't remember exact prices, I researched typical retail costs for those items during the year I likely bought them. The key is being reasonable and honest. The IRS knows most people lose money selling used personal items - they're not trying to tax you on legitimate personal losses.

Those codes are definitely concerning! Code 810 (refund freeze) combined with 971/977 (amended return codes) when you didn't file an amended return suggests the IRS may have made an adjustment to your return. The 570 code with 07-30-2024 date likely means no action will be taken until then. I'd recommend calling the IRS again and specifically asking about the refund freeze and why an amended return shows when you didn't file one. You might also want to request they send you a copy of any correspondence or notices that should have been mailed to you. Don't wait until July - be proactive!

Those transcript codes are definitely red flags! Code 810 (refund freeze) usually means the IRS flagged something for review, and the 971/977 codes appearing when you didn't file an amended return could indicate the IRS made adjustments on their end. The July 30th date on code 570 might be a review deadline, but I wouldn't wait that long. I'd suggest calling back and asking specifically: 1) Why is there a refund freeze? 2) What triggered the amended return codes when you didn't file one? 3) Request they check for any undelivered notices. Also consider visiting your local Taxpayer Assistance Center if phone calls aren't getting results - sometimes face-to-face gets better answers.

FYI - tried this last wk w/ my 2023 return info. Called 800-908-9946, entered SSN, verified addr, picked opt 2 for transcript, then opt 1 for tax return transcript. Selected 2023, then when it offered to mail, I stayed quiet for ~30 secs. Then it said "for more opts, press 1" - did that, then got option to hear it. System read my AGI, filing status, dependents, etc. Took notes while listening since it goes kinda fast. Total call time: 8 mins. Way faster than waiting for mail!

Thank you all for sharing these detailed instructions! As someone new to navigating IRS phone systems, this thread has been incredibly helpful. I tried the method described by several members here and can confirm it worked as of yesterday (called around 9 AM EST to avoid peak hours as suggested). One small addition for other newcomers: when the automated system reads your transcript information, it goes fairly quickly and doesn't repeat details. I found it helpful to have a pen and paper ready before starting the call, especially for capturing the AGI and other key numbers you might need for tax software or other applications. The whole process took about 12 minutes including hold time. For those asking about different transcript types - during my call, after selecting the tax return transcript option, the system did briefly mention other transcript types were available, but I didn't explore those options. Might be worth a follow-up call if you need account transcripts specifically.

Has anyone used a tax attorney specializing in real estate for this kind of situation? I'm weighing whether to hire one versus trying to figure it all out myself.

I went through something very similar with farmland my grandmother left me in 2019. The county had it assessed as agricultural at about $2,000/acre, but it was clearly worth much more as residential development land. Here's what worked for me: I hired a certified appraiser who specialized in retrospective valuations. They were able to go back and analyze what the property would have been worth at the time of inheritance by looking at comparable sales, zoning potential, and development trends in the area. The key is finding an appraiser who understands that agricultural assessments are often completely disconnected from actual market value, especially when there's development potential. My appraiser found several comparable properties that sold within 2 years of my inheritance date at prices that were 8-10 times higher than the tax assessment. The IRS accepted the retrospective appraisal without question when I filed. Make sure whoever you hire provides detailed documentation showing their methodology and comparable sales data. It's worth the upfront cost to avoid overpaying on capital gains later. One tip: if there were any subdivision developments or major infrastructure improvements (new roads, utilities, etc.) in your area around the time of inheritance, make sure those are factored into the valuation as they would have increased the property's fair market value regardless of how it was assessed for tax purposes.

Double check your 1099-R coding carefully! When I took a distribution for my first home purchase, Vanguard initially coded mine as a regular early distribution (Code 1) instead of a first-time homebuyer distribution (Code J). I had to call them and have them issue a corrected 1099-R. Also remember that the first-time homebuyer exception is limited to $10,000 lifetime across all IRAs, so even if you used $8,000 now, you only have $2,000 left for this exception in the future. Just something to keep in mind.

The $10,000 first-time homebuyer limit applies per individual, not per household! So if you and your husband both qualify as first-time homebuyers (haven't owned a home in the past 2 years), you can each withdraw up to $10,000 from your respective IRAs penalty-free - that's potentially $20,000 total for your down payment. Just make sure you both meet the first-time buyer definition and that your IRA custodians properly code the distributions with Code J on your 1099-Rs. Also remember this limit is lifetime across all your IRAs, so if either of you has used this exception before, that reduces your available amount. The same contribution vs. earnings rules apply to both of you - if you're withdrawing amounts equal to or less than your total Roth contributions, those should be tax-free regardless of the 5-year rule or your age.