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This is such a timely question! I just went through this exact situation during my 2024 tax prep. Like many others have mentioned, charitable donations are NOT added back for AMT - which was a huge relief when I discovered this. What really helped me understand the mechanics was creating a simple spreadsheet to track my regular tax vs AMT calculations side by side. I could see exactly how my $15,000 in cash donations and $8,000 in appreciated stock donations affected both calculations. The stock donation strategy mentioned by others is spot-on. I donated some Tesla shares that had appreciated significantly, and not only did I get the full market value deduction, but I also avoided about $2,400 in capital gains tax that would have applied under both regular and AMT systems. One thing I learned the hard way: if you're planning multiple donation types in the same year, consider the timing carefully. I made a large cash donation in January and then realized later I could have been more strategic about when to donate my appreciated securities to optimize the overall tax impact. For anyone still confused about this, I'd recommend using tax software that shows both calculations clearly, or better yet, run some scenarios with a tax professional. The peace of mind is worth it when you're dealing with AMT complexity!
Thanks for sharing your real-world experience Zainab! Your spreadsheet approach sounds really smart - I'm definitely going to try that. I'm curious about the timing aspect you mentioned with your cash vs stock donations. Could you elaborate on what you would have done differently with the timing? I'm planning some donations before year-end and want to make sure I'm thinking about this strategically. Also, did you use any specific tax software that shows both regular and AMT calculations clearly, or did you have to calculate the AMT portion manually?
I've been following this thread and wanted to add my perspective as someone who's navigated AMT with charitable donations for several years now. The consensus here is absolutely correct - charitable donations are NOT added back for AMT, which makes them one of the few deductions that work the same way under both tax systems. This is actually a huge advantage when you're in AMT territory. One practical tip I'd add: if you're regularly hitting AMT, consider setting up a systematic approach to your charitable giving. I use what I call the "AMT donation ladder" - I front-load appreciated securities donations early in the year when I can better predict my income, then use cash donations later for any additional giving. The reason this works well is that appreciated securities give you the double benefit (avoiding capital gains + full FMV deduction) regardless of whether you're in AMT, while cash donations are more flexible for year-end adjustments based on your final tax picture. Also, don't forget about the CARES Act provision that allows up to $300 ($600 for joint filers) in cash charitable deductions even if you take the standard deduction. This applies to both regular tax and AMT calculations. For anyone still feeling overwhelmed by AMT calculations, remember that charitable giving is one area where you can actually plan with confidence - the tax treatment is straightforward compared to other deductions that get complicated under AMT rules.
Ella, I love your "AMT donation ladder" concept! That's such a practical framework. I'm curious about the timing aspect - when you say you front-load appreciated securities early in the year, do you mean January/February, or do you wait until you have a clearer picture of your income trajectory? I'm trying to balance getting the tax benefits locked in early versus having flexibility if my income situation changes unexpectedly. Also, have you found any particular types of appreciated securities work better for this strategy, or is it mainly about finding assets with significant gains regardless of the specific investment?
Can anyone explain like I'm 5 what these different 1095 forms mean? I have the same situation where I'm on my parent's plan but turning 26 soon and I'm scared of getting hit with surprise tax bills.
Here's a super simple breakdown: 1095-A = Marketplace insurance (Healthcare.gov or state exchanges) - might involve tax credits that affect your taxes 1095-B = Other health insurance (employer plans, Medicare, etc.) - just proves you had insurance, doesn't affect taxes 1095-C = Large employer health insurance - also just proves coverage, no tax impact If you only have B or C forms, you're good! Just keep them for your records. Only the A form creates potential tax credit issues.
This is exactly why I always recommend getting a copy of your tax return before signing it and asking questions about anything you don't understand. A $10k surprise tax bill should never happen without clear documentation. Your situation sounds like a classic case of form confusion. Since you were on your parents' employer plan, you should have received a 1095-B (or possibly 1095-C if it's a large employer). These forms just prove you had qualifying health coverage - they don't involve any tax credits or payments that need to be reconciled. The Premium Tax Credit only applies to people who bought insurance through Healthcare.gov or state marketplaces AND received advance payments to help cover premiums. If you never applied for marketplace coverage, there's no way you could owe money for premium tax credits. I'd suggest: 1) Ask your CPA to show you the exact form and line numbers where this $10k liability is coming from, 2) Verify what health insurance forms (1095-A, B, or C) were used in your tax preparation, and 3) If they can't provide clear documentation, absolutely get a second opinion from another tax professional. Don't sign anything or pay anything until you understand exactly what's happening with documentation to back it up!
Check if you're eligible for the Fresh Start program. Even if they took your refund, you might be able to get your loans out of default and potentially recover some of the offset funds. The program is still available through 2024.
I'm sorry this happened to you! This is really frustrating when you're counting on that money. Just to add to what others have said - when you call the Department of Education, ask specifically about the "injured spouse" provisions if you're married and filed jointly. Sometimes the non-debtor spouse can recover their portion of the refund. Also, keep all documentation about the offset - you'll need it if you decide to pursue any appeals or hardship requests. The whole system is confusing and they don't make it easy to understand your rights.
This is really helpful advice, especially about the injured spouse provision! I had no idea that was even an option. My wife and I filed jointly and she doesn't have any student loans, so maybe we can get her portion back at least. Do you know how long that process usually takes? We really could use any amount we can get back right now.
I feel your pain! I've been battling the IRS phone system for years and it's gotten progressively worse. What finally worked for me was a combination approach: First, I tried calling exactly at 7:00 AM Eastern when they open - set multiple alarms because that first few minutes window is crucial. Second, I learned that if you get the "we're experiencing high call volume" message, don't hang up immediately. Sometimes if you wait through the entire message, it will actually put you in a queue instead of disconnecting you. Third, I started keeping a detailed log of every call attempt with timestamps - this helped me identify patterns in when I was more likely to get through. For property tax deduction questions specifically, you might also want to check if your local IRS Taxpayer Assistance Center offers walk-in appointments. I know it's not ideal, but sometimes face-to-face is the only way to get complex issues resolved. Hang in there - the system is broken but persistence usually pays off eventually!
This is incredibly helpful advice! I especially like the idea of keeping a detailed log - that's so smart for identifying patterns. I never thought about waiting through the entire "high call volume" message instead of hanging up immediately. I've been making that mistake for weeks! The local Taxpayer Assistance Center is a great suggestion too. I just looked it up and there's one about 30 minutes from me that does walk-ins on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Sometimes the old-school approach is the way to go when technology fails us. Thanks for taking the time to share all these strategies!
I've had success using a different approach - calling the IRS Practitioner Priority Service line at 866-860-4259 even though I'm not a tax professional. When they ask for your PTIN, just explain you're a taxpayer with a complex question that the regular lines can't handle. About 60% of the time, they'll transfer you to the appropriate department instead of hanging up. Also, try calling on Wednesdays around 2:30 PM - I've noticed that's when they seem to have more available agents, probably because it's mid-week and most people call on Mondays or Fridays. For property tax deduction questions specifically, make sure you have your Form 1098 handy and know your exact question before calling. The agents can help much faster when you're prepared with specific details rather than general confusion.
This is genius! I never would have thought to try the Practitioner Priority Service line as a regular taxpayer. The Wednesday 2:30 PM timing tip is really specific and helpful - I love when people share these kinds of discovered patterns from their experience. You're absolutely right about being prepared with specific details. I made the mistake of calling once without having my paperwork ready and the agent seemed frustrated trying to help me figure out what I was even asking about. Having that Form 1098 and exact question written down beforehand makes total sense. I'm definitely going to try your approach next week. Thanks for sharing these insider tips!
Wow, this is exactly the kind of creative problem-solving I needed to hear! I've been so focused on the "official" customer service lines that I never considered trying the practitioner line. Your Wednesday afternoon timing tip is fascinating - it makes perfect sense that mid-week would have better availability when everyone else is calling Monday morning or Friday afternoon. I'm definitely going to try this approach, and I love that you've figured out the success rate (60%) through trial and error. That shows real dedication to cracking this system! Quick question though - when they ask for the PTIN and you explain you're a taxpayer, do you find certain ways of phrasing that explanation work better than others?
Alina Rosenthal
Has anyone used TurboTax for this situation? I'm having the exact same problem but TurboTax doesn't seem to have anywhere to enter the different mortgages for different parts of the year...
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Finnegan Gunn
ā¢I use H&R Block software and it handles this situation pretty well. There's a section where you can enter multiple mortgages and the dates for each property. It does all the calculations automatically. Maybe check if TurboTax has a similar feature? Sometimes it's hidden in the itemized deductions section.
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Jace Caspullo
I went through this exact scenario two years ago and found that the key is understanding that Pub 936's "average balance" calculation needs to be done month-by-month, not as simple annual averages. Here's what I learned from my CPA: For January-March, only your condo mortgage counts ($170k declining to ~$168k). For April-July, BOTH mortgages count toward your qualified loan limit since you owned both properties simultaneously. For August-December, only your house mortgage counts. The tricky part with MFS is that $550k limit. During your overlap months (April-July), your combined mortgage balances were probably around $1.55M, which far exceeds your limit. This means for those months, you can only deduct interest proportional to $550k/$1.55M ā 35.5% of the interest paid. My suggestion: Calculate your monthly qualified loan balances first, then determine what percentage of your total $42,300 in interest ($2,800 + $39,500) is actually deductible. You'll likely end up deducting around $18k-20k rather than the full amount. I'd also recommend attaching a clear explanation of your calculation to avoid any IRS questions later. This is a legitimate but complex situation that benefits from documentation.
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Louisa Ramirez
ā¢This is really helpful! I'm new to dealing with mortgage interest deductions and this situation seems so complex. Just to make sure I understand - when you say "month-by-month" calculation, do you literally need to track the mortgage balance on the first of each month, or can you use the average balance for each month like the IRS publication suggests? Also, when you attached your explanation to avoid IRS questions, was it just a simple written statement or did you include detailed spreadsheets with all the monthly calculations?
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