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This is actually a really common issue that many employers get wrong! You're absolutely correct that Box 12W should include both your pre-tax contributions AND your employer's contributions to the HSA. The fact that your W-2 only shows $475 (just your contributions) while excluding the $900 in employer contributions is definitely an error. I'd recommend taking a two-pronged approach: First, gather all your HSA statements showing the deposits from both you and your employer, then present this documentation to your payroll department again. Sometimes it helps to reference IRS Publication 969 which clearly states that employer HSA contributions must be included in Box 12 with code W. If they still refuse to issue a corrected W-2, you can absolutely file your taxes accurately using the correct total of $1,375 on Form 8889. The key is making sure your tax return reflects the actual contributions made, regardless of the W-2 error. Just keep all your HSA documentation in case the IRS has questions about the discrepancy between your W-2 and your tax return. Don't let payroll's confidence shake you - you clearly understand HSA reporting better than they do in this case!
This is such helpful advice! I'm dealing with a similar situation where my employer seems confused about HSA reporting requirements. Do you happen to know if there's a specific section in IRS Publication 969 that I should point them to? I want to make sure I'm referencing the exact language when I go back to HR. Also, when you mention filing accurately with Form 8889 despite the W-2 error - does that mean I should report the full $1,375 on a specific line, or do I need to split it somehow between my contributions and employer contributions? I want to make sure I don't accidentally trigger any red flags with the IRS.
@Gemma Andrews You ll'want to reference the section in IRS Publication 969 that discusses employer contributions - specifically it states that Employer "contributions to an employee s'HSA are not includible in the employee s'gross income and" must be reported in Box 12 of Form W-2 with code W. For Form 8889, you ll'report what s'actually on your W-2 in Box 12W on line 9 even (if it s'wrong ,)then handle the employer contributions that were omitted through the proper lines. The form has specific instructions for different types of contributions, so follow those carefully. The total on line 13 should reflect all actual contributions made to your HSA during the year. The key is consistency - your HSA statements should match what you report as total contributions, even if your W-2 is incorrect. Keep all your documentation because if there s'a discrepancy between your W-2 and your return, the IRS may ask for clarification, but your HSA records will support your filing.
I work in payroll and unfortunately see this mistake all the time! Your employer is definitely wrong - Box 12W absolutely should include both employee pre-tax contributions AND employer contributions to HSAs. It sounds like your payroll department might be confusing HSA reporting with other benefit reporting. What often happens is that payroll systems are set up incorrectly or the person processing W-2s doesn't fully understand HSA reporting requirements. The $1,375 total you calculated is exactly what should appear in Box 12W. Here's what I'd suggest: Print out page 12 of IRS Publication 969 (the 2022 version) which clearly explains that employer HSA contributions must be reported in Box 12 with code W. Highlight the relevant section and bring it to your payroll department along with your HSA statements showing all deposits. If they still refuse (which unfortunately happens), you can file correctly using Form 8889 and report the actual total contributions. The IRS may eventually catch the discrepancy and contact your employer directly about the incorrect W-2, which often motivates companies to fix their processes for future years. Don't second-guess yourself - you understand this correctly and your employer needs to issue a corrected W-2!
Since no one mentioned it yet - don't forget that 2025 tax rules now allow each qualifying child to potentially get you up to $2,000 in tax credits (that's the increased amount after the recent tax law changes). So make sure whoever claims each child can actually benefit from the full credit amount. If your girlfriend doesn't have enough tax liability due to her part-time work, she might not be able to claim the full child tax credit amount even though she's eligible to claim your son. Something to consider when deciding who claims which child!
Small correction - part of the Child Tax Credit is refundable (the Additional Child Tax Credit), so even if she doesn't have enough tax liability, she could still get some benefit. But you're right that maximizing the non-refundable portion is important for the overall household finances!
You're absolutely right about the refundable portion - thanks for the correction! The Additional Child Tax Credit can provide up to $1,600 as a refundable credit even if tax liability is lower. Still, for maximum household benefit, it's worth calculating which arrangement gives the best overall result when factoring in both the refundable and non-refundable portions. Every family situation is different, and running the numbers through tax software both ways (with each parent claiming different combinations of children) can often reveal the optimal filing strategy.
Great question! I was in a nearly identical situation a couple years ago. One thing that really helped me was getting everything organized early in the year rather than scrambling at tax time. Since you're paying the mortgage and most household expenses, you should definitely qualify for Head of Household status when claiming your daughter. Just make sure you're tracking everything - I started keeping a simple monthly log of who paid what, which made things so much clearer when it came time to file. Also worth noting that the IRS has gotten stricter about auditing HOH claims in recent years, especially when there are multiple taxpayers at the same address. But if you legitimately pay more than 50% of household costs and have proper documentation, you should be fine. The key is being able to prove your contribution level if they ever ask. One last tip - consider having a quick consultation with a tax professional this year to make sure you're set up correctly going forward. It's much easier to establish the right pattern from the beginning than to fix problems later!
This is really solid advice! I'm just starting to think about my tax situation for next year and keeping a monthly log sounds like a game-changer. Do you have any specific format you'd recommend for tracking expenses? Like should I separate things by category (utilities, groceries, etc.) or just track the total amounts each person contributes? Also curious about your comment on IRS getting stricter - did you end up getting audited or just hear about it happening to others? Want to make sure I'm being extra careful with documentation from the start.
Quick question - I did something similar with my rental bathroom last year. Does anyone know if I can split the renovation into separate categories? Like the toilet and vanity as 5-year property but the tile work and shower as 27.5 years? Or does the whole bathroom have to be treated the same way?
You can definitely split it! I'm a property manager with 12 units, and we always categorize bathroom fixtures (toilet, sink, vanity) separately from the "attached" components (tile, shower pan, built-in tub). Fixtures are 5-year property while the attached stuff is 27.5-year property.
This is such a timely question! I just went through this exact scenario with my rental property last year. One thing I'd add to the great advice already given is to consider the "unit of property" rules when determining what constitutes a single improvement versus separate components. The IRS looks at whether you're improving a single unit of property (the entire kitchen) or separate units (individual appliances, flooring, etc.). Since you did a complete gut renovation, the structural elements (cabinets, countertops, flooring) would likely be treated as one unit of property and depreciated together over 27.5 years. However, don't forget about the de minimis safe harbor election! If you have receipts showing individual items under $2,500 (or $5,000 if you have applicable financial statements), those can potentially be expensed immediately rather than depreciated. This might apply to smaller items like faucets, light fixtures, or cabinet hardware that were part of your renovation. Also, since your rent increased by $300/month after the renovation, make sure you're properly documenting this as evidence that the improvements added value to the property. This helps support your position if the IRS ever questions the capital improvement classification.
This is really helpful information about the unit of property rules! I'm new to rental property investing and hadn't heard about the de minimis safe harbor election before. Could you clarify how exactly you make that election? Is it something you choose when filing, or do you need to file additional paperwork with the IRS? Also, does the $2,500 threshold apply per item or per invoice? I have several small items like new cabinet pulls and light switches that were under $100 each but might have been grouped together on contractor invoices.
I think people are overcomplicating this. If you're just casually trading skins and occasionally making a small profit, it's hobby income. Report it on Line 8z of Schedule 1 as "Other Income" and call it a day. Only need Schedule C if you're truly running this as a business with regular, consistent activity aimed at making profit.
That's actually incorrect and potentially dangerous advice. The IRS looks at intent and behavior, not just volume. If you're regularly buying items specifically to resell them at a profit (even if it's just a few items a month), that's a business activity that requires Schedule C. The "hobby vs. business" distinction isn't about amount - it's about your profit motive and approach. Even small-scale trading with the intent to make money should be reported as self-employment.
Based on what you've described, you're definitely running this as a business activity since you're systematically buying skins at below market value with the specific intent to resell for profit. The IRS doesn't distinguish between digital and physical goods when it comes to business income. You'll want to use Schedule C to report this activity. Track your gross receipts (all sales - so yes, that $2,000), then subtract your cost of goods sold (what you paid for the skins) to get your net profit. That $300-400 profit will be subject to both regular income tax and self-employment tax. Pro tip: Keep meticulous records going forward. Save screenshots of all transactions, PayPal receipts, and Steam transaction history. Also consider tracking any business expenses like platform fees, internet costs for trading, or storage costs if applicable. The IRS loves detailed documentation, especially for newer types of businesses like digital item trading. Since you're already 6 months in, I'd recommend gathering all your transaction history now before it becomes an overwhelming task. Most platforms let you export your transaction data, which makes record-keeping much easier than trying to reconstruct everything later.
This is really helpful advice! I'm just starting out with CS2 skin trading myself and had no idea about the self-employment tax part. Quick question - when you mention tracking internet costs as a business expense, how do you calculate what percentage of your internet bill you can deduct? Like if I spend 2 hours a day trading but use internet for personal stuff the rest of the time, can I deduct 2/24 of my monthly bill?
Chloe Martin
I totally feel your pain on the constant refreshing! š I'm in the same boat - SBTPG showed funded around 10am this morning and I've been obsessively checking my account ever since. From what I've gathered reading through everyone's experiences, it seems like the timing really depends on your specific bank's ACH processing schedule. Some banks do same-day ACH if it's received before their cutoff (usually around 2-3pm EST), but others batch process overnight. Since you're doing gig work too, I know that refund anxiety is real when you're counting on that money! Last year mine took about 30 hours from funded to deposit, so I'm trying to manage my expectations and not get my hopes up for today. But fingers crossed we both get lucky! š¤
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Victoria Jones
ā¢The gig worker struggle is so real! š I'm also doing Uber/DoorDash and have been refreshing my banking app every 10 minutes since I saw "funded" this morning. It's like waiting for exam results or something! I called my bank (Wells Fargo) and they said their ACH cutoff is 5pm EST, so there's still a tiny chance for today. But honestly, after reading everyone's experiences here, I'm mentally preparing for tomorrow morning. The anticipation is killing me though - this refund is literally going to cover my car maintenance that I've been putting off for months! ššø
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Micah Franklin
I'm going through the exact same thing right now! SBTPG updated to "funded" around 8am this morning and I've been refreshing my Chase app like it owes me money š From everything I've read here and my own research, the trace number thing is internal - we'll never see it as customers. It's basically just how banks track the transfer on their end. As for timing, it really seems to be a coin flip whether you'll get it today or tomorrow. Chase usually processes ACH transfers pretty quickly, but their same-day cutoff is around 3pm EST. Since it's already past that in most time zones, I'm mentally preparing for tomorrow morning. The waiting game is brutal though, especially when you're relying on gig work income! I've got rent due next week and this refund is literally my lifeline right now. At least knowing that "funded" means the money is actually moving makes me feel a bit better than just staring at "processing" on the IRS site for weeks! Hang in there - based on everyone's experiences here, it sounds like we should definitely see something by tomorrow afternoon at the latest! š¤
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