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You might want to lookk into Actual Expense method vs Standard Mileage. For my business, I calculated both ways and Actual Expense gave me a way bigger deduction bc my SUV is expensive to maintane. You can deduct gas, oil changes, tires, all the insurance, car payments, even depreciation! But make it clear how much is business use (thats the part thats deductible). Just my 2 cents but figure out which method benefits you the most!
I'm dealing with a similar situation for my freelance graphic design work! One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is that you should definitely keep detailed records of ALL payments you make on behalf of your grandfather - not just the recent three months where you forgot to collect from him. The IRS will want to see that this is a legitimate business arrangement and not just you paying personal expenses for a family member. If you've been consistently handling the online payments (even when reimbursed), that actually strengthens your case for having a business relationship with the vehicle. Also consider this: even if you go the standard mileage route like others suggested, having that written agreement with your grandfather is still smart. It protects both of you and shows the IRS this isn't just casual family car borrowing. A simple one-page document stating you use the car for business purposes and contribute to its expenses should be sufficient. One more tip - make sure you're tracking your mileage religiously going forward, regardless of which deduction method you choose. The IRS loves to scrutinize vehicle deductions, so having a solid mileage log is your best defense in any scenario.
This is really solid advice about keeping records of ALL payments, not just recent ones! I'm new to self-employment tax stuff and didn't realize how important that documentation trail would be. Quick question though - when you say "business relationship with the vehicle," does that mean I should be treating this more like a formal lease arrangement even if my grandfather and I have always kept it pretty casual? Like should I be paying him a set monthly amount instead of just covering expenses as they come up?
can someone explain how the 183 day rule works? ive heard this mentioned but im confused about what counts as a "day" in a state. if i sleep in one state but work during the day in another which one gets that day?? also what if ur traveling a lot between multiple states for work?
The 183 day rule isn't as simple as it sounds. Most states count any part of a day spent in the state as a full day for residency purposes. So if you sleep in State A but work in State B, both states might count that as a "day" toward their residency requirements. For frequent travelers, it gets complicated - you need to track where you're physically present each day. Some states have exceptions for transit days (just passing through).
The complexity everyone's describing here is exactly why I ended up hiring a tax professional who specializes in multi-state returns. I tried to figure out my California-to-Nevada move on my own and kept getting overwhelmed by all the different rules and exceptions. One thing that really helped me understand was keeping a detailed calendar of where I spent each night during the year I moved. It sounds tedious, but when you're dealing with aggressive states like California, having documentation of your physical presence can be crucial if they ever challenge your residency status. Also, don't forget about the economic nexus test that some states use alongside the physical presence test. California looks at factors like where your income is sourced, where your professional licenses are held, and where you maintain business relationships. Just moving physically isn't always enough if you're still economically tied to the state. For your rental property in California, you'll definitely need to continue filing California non-resident returns for that income even after establishing Texas residency. Texas doesn't have state income tax, which is great, but make sure you're properly reporting that California rental income to avoid any issues down the road.
This is really solid advice about keeping detailed records! I'm curious though - when you say "economic nexus test," does that mean California could still try to tax ALL of someone's income even after they've moved to Texas, just because they still have business ties there? That seems pretty aggressive. Also, for the rental property situation, would the OP need to pay taxes to both California (on the rental income) and Texas (if Texas had income tax), or does the interstate tax credit prevent double taxation?
Code 971 can be nerve-wracking but it's actually pretty common! It just means the IRS issued or is about to issue you a notice. Don't panic - it could be anything from a simple acknowledgment to requesting additional documentation. The key is to wait for that notice to arrive (usually within 1-2 weeks) before taking any action. In the meantime, make sure your address is current with the IRS so you don't miss it. Hang in there! šŖ
Something no one mentioned yet - make sure you're using a qualified tax professional to help with your amendments during an audit! DIY tax software is fine for simple returns, but when you're dealing with audit+amendments, that's when expertise really matters.
This! I used TurboTax for years and thought I was doing everything right until I got audited. Turned out I'd been miscategorizing business expenses for 3 years. Hired a CPA who specializes in audits and she not only helped with the audit but fixed my previous returns properly. Cost me $800 but saved thousands in potential penalties.
One thing to keep in mind is timing - while you can file amendments for non-audited years, be strategic about when you submit them. I'd recommend waiting until you have a clearer picture of how your current audit is progressing before filing multiple amendments. If your 2022 audit goes smoothly and the auditor seems reasonable, that might be the perfect time to mention your intention to amend other years. On the other hand, if the audit becomes contentious or the auditor seems particularly aggressive, you might want to wait until after it's resolved to avoid any perception that you're trying to overwhelm them with paperwork. Also, make sure you have rock-solid documentation for all the amendments you're planning. The last thing you want is to file amended returns that themselves have errors or insufficient support. Take the time to organize everything properly - it's better to file one accurate amendment than to have to file corrected amendments later.
This is really smart advice about timing! I'm just starting to deal with a similar situation and hadn't thought about how the auditor's approach might influence when to file amendments. Quick question - you mentioned waiting to see how the audit progresses, but is there any risk in waiting too long? Like if I wait until after my 2022 audit is completely finished, could that delay filing amendments for 2020 or 2021 beyond some deadline? I know there are time limits on amending returns but I'm not sure exactly how long I have. Also wondering if anyone knows whether the IRS views it differently if you file amendments during vs. after an audit - like does one approach look more or less suspicious than the other?
Angelica Smith
Thanks everyone for the helpful responses! I realize I wasn't clear in my original post - I did have HDHP coverage through December 1st last year (my previous job's coverage ended December 31st), so it sounds like I do qualify for the last month rule. Just to make sure I understand correctly: since I had HDHP coverage on December 1st last year AND I have HDHP coverage now through my new employer, I can contribute the full $3,850 for last year to my current HSA account, as long as I maintain HDHP coverage through December 31st of this year. Is that right? The testing period requirement makes me a bit nervous since I'm relatively new at my current job, but I don't have any plans to leave or change coverage. I think I'll go ahead and make the full contribution since the deadline is approaching. Better to take advantage of the tax savings while I can!
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Zoe Papadopoulos
ā¢Yes, that's exactly right! Since you had HDHP coverage on December 1st last year and currently have HDHP coverage, you can contribute the full $3,850 for last year to your current HSA account. Just make sure when you make the contribution that you specify it's for the previous tax year. The testing period nervousness is understandable, but as long as you maintain any qualifying HDHP coverage through December 31st of this year (doesn't have to be the same plan), you'll be fine. Even if you change jobs, just make sure there's no gap in HDHP coverage during the transition. Good call on making the contribution before the deadline - that's a significant tax deduction you don't want to miss out on!
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Melina Haruko
Just wanted to add one important point that might help others in similar situations - make sure your HSA administrator properly codes your contribution for the previous tax year when you make it. I made a prior-year HSA contribution last year and initially my administrator coded it for the current tax year by mistake. This created a headache when I filed my taxes because it looked like I had over-contributed for the current year. I had to get a corrected 1099-SA and 5498-SA from them. Most HSA providers have a specific process or form for prior-year contributions, so don't just assume they'll know what year you intend it for. Call them or use their online portal to explicitly designate it as a previous tax year contribution. This will save you potential complications when tax season rolls around!
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Miguel Silva
ā¢This is such an important point that often gets overlooked! I had the exact same issue when I made a prior-year contribution. My HSA provider automatically coded it for the current year, and it took months to get the paperwork corrected. For anyone making prior-year HSA contributions, I'd also recommend keeping detailed records of your contribution dates and amounts, along with any correspondence with your HSA administrator about the tax year designation. This documentation becomes really valuable if there are any discrepancies when you receive your tax forms. Some HSA providers have a cutoff date (often in late March or early April) after which they won't accept prior-year contribution designations, so don't wait until the last minute to make these contributions and specify the tax year!
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