Just wanted to add something that might help folks who are dealing with this situation - if you're feeling overwhelmed by the paperwork and deadlines, consider tackling this in phases rather than trying to do everything at once. I went through something similar last year and found it much more manageable when I broke it down like this: Phase 1 was just identifying which years I needed to deal with and requesting all the IRS transcripts. Phase 2 was organizing the documents and doing rough calculations to prioritize which years to file first. Phase 3 was actually preparing and filing the returns one year at a time. This approach helped me avoid the paralysis that comes from looking at a huge pile of unfiled tax years all at once. Plus, if you run into any complications or questions with the first return you file, you can address those issues before tackling the remaining years. Also, don't beat yourself up about letting this slide for so long - life happens and tax obligations can easily fall through the cracks when you're dealing with multiple jobs, school, moving, or other major life changes. The important thing is that you're addressing it now while you can still claim those refunds. Better late than never!

I just wanted to chime in as someone who recently went through this exact process! Found old W-2s from 2019-2022 and was able to successfully claim refunds for three of those years. One thing I'd add that hasn't been mentioned yet - if you're missing any documentation and your former employers are no longer in business or unresponsive, don't panic. The IRS wage transcripts that others have mentioned are incredibly thorough. I was missing W-2s from two companies that had closed down, but the transcripts showed all the income and withholding information I needed to complete those returns. Also, @Edison Estevez, since you mentioned being "all over the place" with jobs during that period - I was in a similar situation with gig work, part-time jobs, and even some under-the-table work I wasn't sure how to handle. The key is just to report what you have documentation for. Don't stress about income that was never reported to the IRS if you don't have records of it. The whole process took me about 3 months from start to finish, but seeing those refund deposits was absolutely worth the effort. I ended up getting back about $2,800 across the three eligible years. Sometimes procrastination pays off in unexpected ways when you finally get around to fixing it!

This is such a comprehensive thread! I'm dealing with the exact same situation - my account has been showing "unavailable" since I first checked it last week, and I was starting to wonder if I needed to contact the IRS or if there was some kind of technical issue. The explanation about the January 31st filing deadline really clarifies the timing. It makes perfect sense that we're all seeing empty accounts right now in early February while the IRS processes all those submissions. I had received my W-2 in the mail already, so I was confused why it wasn't showing up online yet. I really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences and timelines from previous years. The tip about email notifications is genius - I just went and enabled those so I don't have to keep checking manually. Also love the idea of calling HR to confirm they submitted everything properly, that would definitely ease my anxiety about the whole process. Thanks especially to @f25a5e825c23 for the professional perspective on the typical timeline. It's so reassuring to hear from someone who works in tax prep that this is completely normal. I'll stop worrying and just wait for mid-February like you suggested!

I'm going through this exact same thing right now! Just logged into my IRS account this morning and saw the same "Information Return Documents Unavailable" message. It's honestly such a relief to read through all these responses and realize this is completely normal for early February. The timing explanation about the January 31st deadline for employers to submit forms makes total sense - of course there would be a processing lag between when they file and when it shows up in our individual accounts. I had been checking my account daily thinking something was wrong, but now I understand it's just part of the normal workflow. I'm definitely going to set up those email notifications that several people mentioned so I can stop the obsessive daily checking. And calling HR to confirm they submitted everything is such a smart idea for peace of mind. Thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences, especially @f25a5e825c23 for the professional insight about the typical timeline. It's amazing how much less stressful this becomes when you understand it's just standard operating procedure!

I've been with BCU for about 3 years and can definitely confirm what everyone's saying about their early deposit reliability! My experience has been very consistent - usually getting refunds 1-2 days before the DDD. Last year my DDD was 2/26 (same as yours!) and I got my deposit on 2/24 around 11:47 PM during their overnight processing window. This year I'm waiting on a 2/27 DDD so I'm right there with you in the anxious checking phase! 😅 One tip I'd add to all the great advice here - BCU's online banking sometimes updates a few minutes before the mobile app, so if you're staying up to check during that midnight-3AM window, try logging in through their website first. Also, their customer service has always been super transparent about deposit timing if you call during business hours, though the automated system Omar mentioned is definitely faster for just checking pending status. Based on my track record with BCU and seeing your 2/26 DDD, I'd be really surprised if you don't see it hit your account by Thursday evening or early Friday morning. They've never let me down! The waiting is always the worst part but you picked a solid credit union. Keep us posted when yours comes through! 🤞

I've been with BCU for about 4 years now and can definitely echo what everyone's saying about their early deposit consistency! With your 2/26 DDD, you'll most likely see it by Thursday evening or Friday morning based on my experience. Last year my DDD was 2/25 and I got my deposit on 2/23 at around 1:30 AM during their overnight batch. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet - if you have BCU's mobile app, you can actually enable push notifications specifically for deposits over a certain amount (like tax refunds). Go to Settings > Notifications > Account Alerts and you can set it up so you'll get pinged the second it hits, even if you're sleeping. Way better than constantly checking! Also, for what it's worth, BCU posts deposits in order of amount - largest first during their overnight processing. So tax refunds typically show up in that first wave around midnight-2 AM rather than waiting until later in the processing window. The waiting is definitely stressful but BCU has been super reliable for me over the years. You picked a good credit union! 🤞

This is a really thoughtful question that highlights how complex the EV tax credit can be with different filing statuses! Based on what you've described, your wife would likely qualify for the full $7500 credit if you file separately, since her individual AGI is under the $150k threshold. However, before making this decision, I'd strongly recommend calculating the medical expense deduction benefit first. Medical expenses are only deductible when they exceed 7.5% of AGI - so if your wife's AGI is around $140k, she'd need over $10,500 in medical bills to see any deduction benefit. If the medical expenses don't clear this threshold on her individual income, you might be giving up joint filing benefits unnecessarily. A few key requirements if you proceed: - The EV must be purchased and titled solely in your wife's name - She needs at least $7500 in federal tax liability to use the full credit - Verify the specific vehicle model qualifies for the full amount - Consider the point-of-sale discount option to get the benefit immediately Don't forget that filing separately often means losing other valuable benefits like certain education credits, IRA deductibility, and student loan interest deductions. The $7500 EV credit is substantial, but make sure you run comprehensive projections both ways to see the total impact. Given the dollar amounts involved and the complexity of coordinating the medical expenses, EV credit, and various other tax implications, this might be a great case for consulting with a tax professional who can model both scenarios with your actual numbers. Good luck with the decision!

This is such a comprehensive discussion with excellent advice from everyone! I wanted to add one more perspective that might be helpful for your decision-making process. Since you're dealing with both the medical expense deduction and EV credit considerations, timing could work in your favor here. You mentioned the medical bills are from this year, but you're also considering an EV purchase before year-end. This gives you a unique opportunity to optimize both benefits in the same tax year. Here's what I'd suggest: First, calculate exactly what your wife's medical expense deduction would be on her individual AGI (remember, only the amount over 7.5% of AGI is deductible). If that deduction is substantial, then filing separately already makes sense even without the EV credit. The EV credit would just be additional savings on top. However, if the medical expenses barely clear the 7.5% threshold or don't provide much deduction benefit, you might want to reconsider the separate filing strategy entirely. One practical tip: Many people don't realize that you can actually prepare your taxes both ways (joint and separate) before filing to see which gives you the better outcome. Most tax software will let you run both scenarios. This could help you see the complete picture including the EV credit, medical deductions, and all other impacts before making your final decision. Also, since you're considering this decision "soon before year-end," make sure you factor in any state EV incentives that might stack with the federal credit - these can sometimes have different timing requirements or eligibility criteria that could influence when you want to make the purchase. Hope this helps with your planning!

I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now - sold my primary residence in November and bought a new one in August, so I had overlapping mortgages for a few months. The mortgage interest calculation has been giving me nightmares! After reading through all these responses, I think I'm going to try the simplified average balance method that @Margot Quinn mentioned. It seems like the most straightforward approach and my tax software should be able to handle it easily. One question though - when you're calculating the average balance, do you include the principal payments made during the year or just use the outstanding balance at the end of each month? I want to make sure I'm doing this correctly before I file. Also, has anyone here actually been audited on this specific issue? I'm curious if the IRS really does scrutinize the calculation method or if they're more concerned with whether you're claiming too much interest overall.

I went through this exact scenario two years ago and learned some hard lessons that might help you avoid my mistakes. The key thing I wish I'd known upfront is that you need to be super careful about how you track the dates and balances. When I first tried to calculate this myself, I made the error of using my closing dates instead of the actual months I was making payments. The IRS looks at when you're actually obligated to pay interest, not just when you technically owned the properties. So for your September overlap month, make sure you're only counting the interest you actually paid on both mortgages during that specific period. Also, keep detailed records of every payment you made. I ended up having to reconstruct my payment history from bank statements because my mortgage servicer's year-end statement didn't clearly show the month-by-month breakdown I needed. It was a nightmare during tax prep. One more tip - if your new mortgage had any points or origination fees, those might be deductible separately from the regular interest, but they have their own rules about whether you can deduct them all in year one or need to amortize them over the life of the loan. Don't forget to check on that piece too.