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Ask the community...

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Philip Cowan

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Question: if the OP decides they can file independently, would it be better to have the parents give the tuition money to the student instead of paying it directly to the school? That way the student could claim they provided ALL the support and there'd be no confusion?

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Caesar Grant

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That approach gets into murky territory. The IRS looks at the substance over form. If parents give money specifically for education, it's still considered support FROM the parents, even if it passes through the student's bank account first. What matters is the source of the funds, not who physically makes the payment. If the parents are the true source of the money, they're providing that portion of support - regardless of whether they pay the school directly or give the money to the student to pay.

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Olivia Clark

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Based on your numbers, it sounds like you're providing more than half of your support, which would make you eligible to file independently and claim the American Opportunity Credit yourself. However, I'd strongly recommend using the IRS support test worksheet in Publication 501 to calculate this precisely - it's more detailed than just comparing tuition vs. living expenses. A few things to double-check in your calculation: - Any health/car insurance your parents provide counts as their support - Scholarships used for tuition don't count toward YOUR support amount - If you lived at home during breaks, include fair rental value as support from parents The most important thing is coordinating with your parents before anyone files. If you determine you're not their dependent, make sure they understand this and won't claim you. The IRS will reject duplicate claims, and resolving that is a headache for everyone involved. If you're still unsure after doing the worksheet, consider getting confirmation from a tax professional or even the IRS directly before filing. The American Opportunity Credit is valuable, but you want to make sure you're claiming it correctly.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm in a similar situation as a sophomore and have been confused about whether my parents should claim me or if I can file independently. The mention of using the IRS worksheet in Publication 501 is exactly what I needed - I've been trying to figure this out with just rough estimates. One quick question: when you mention getting confirmation from the IRS directly, is that something you can actually do before filing? I thought they only reviewed things after you submit your return. It would be great to know for sure before I file since I don't want any issues later. Also, does anyone know if there's a deadline for when parents and students need to decide who claims the dependency? Or can this be sorted out anytime before the filing deadline?

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Just wanted to share my experience as another data point! I also use Venmo for direct deposit and got my refund with a DDD of 02/28 exactly 2 business days early, just like others have mentioned. One thing I noticed is that Venmo sends a push notification as soon as the deposit hits, usually early in the morning around 6-7 AM. So if you're expecting it Monday, you'll probably know first thing when you wake up. Also, to help with the advance question - if you're unsure whether you took one, you can log into your tax software account (TurboTax, FreeTaxUSA, etc.) and review your filing summary. It will clearly show if you opted for any refund advance or bank product fees. Most people who take advances remember doing it because there's usually a separate application process and disclosures about fees and interest rates. Good luck with your refund! Sounds like Monday is very likely based on the pattern everyone's describing with Venmo's early deposit feature.

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Thanks for sharing your experience! The early morning notification timing is really helpful to know. I've been checking my account obsessively, so knowing it usually hits around 6-7 AM will save me from staying up late refreshing the app. I also appreciate the tip about checking the tax software account for the filing summary. I'm pretty sure I didn't take an advance since I remember being careful about avoiding any extra fees, but I'll double-check just to be certain. Based on everyone's feedback, it sounds like Monday morning is looking very promising for my refund!

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Ava Johnson

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I've been following this thread and wanted to add my perspective as someone who's dealt with similar refund timing questions. The confusion around early deposits is totally understandable - there are so many variables that affect when you actually get your money. One thing I've learned from experience is that the "up to 5 days early" marketing from banks like Venmo is really the maximum, not the typical timeframe. In practice, most people with government payments (like tax refunds) see 1-2 days early, which aligns with what others have shared here. For those trying to figure out if they took a refund advance, here's a simple check: look at your bank account for when you paid your tax prep fees. If you paid the preparer directly (either upfront or after filing), you probably didn't take an advance. If you don't see a charge to the tax prep company on your card or bank statement, that's usually a sign the fees were deducted from your refund, which often involves some kind of bank product or advance. With your DDD of 03/05 being a Tuesday, Monday 03/03 sounds very realistic based on the experiences shared here. Venmo seems pretty consistent with that 2-day early pattern for tax refunds.

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This is such a great breakdown! I never thought to check my bank statement for the tax prep fee payment to figure out if I took an advance - that's really smart. I just looked and I can see I paid my preparer directly with my debit card back in January, so that confirms I didn't take any advance. It's reassuring to hear that the 2-day early pattern with Venmo is so consistent for tax refunds. I was getting caught up in all the "up to 5 days early" marketing and setting unrealistic expectations. Monday morning it is! Thanks for helping make sense of all these different factors that affect refund timing.

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I just went through this exact situation and wanted to share what worked for me! I had two 1098 forms after refinancing in September 2023, and H&R Block was giving me the same confusing warnings. Here's what I learned: Enter each 1098 form completely separately in the mortgage interest section. Don't try to combine any numbers yourself. When H&R Block gives you that duplicate entry warning, you can safely ignore it as long as you're certain these are from different lenders for different time periods of the same property. Make sure to pay attention to Box 6 (points paid) on your new mortgage's 1098. If there's an amount there, H&R Block will ask if this was a refinance - answer "yes" so it properly handles the points deduction rules (they usually need to be spread over the loan term for refinances, not deducted all at once). Also double-check that both 1098 forms show the exact same property address. Even small formatting differences can confuse the software and trigger unnecessary warnings. The good news is that once you enter everything correctly, H&R Block automatically totals both interest amounts on Schedule A line 8a, so you'll get your full mortgage interest deduction. Just be patient with the software's warnings - they're designed to catch genuine errors but can be overly cautious with legitimate refinance situations like yours.

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This is really helpful guidance! I'm dealing with a similar refinance situation but I have an additional complication - my new lender is showing some of the interest in Box 1 and some in a different box that they labeled as "additional interest." Should I be combining these amounts when I enter the information, or does H&R Block handle this automatically? I want to make sure I'm not missing any deductible interest or accidentally double-counting anything.

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@Malik Thompson I haven t'seen additional "interest labeled" separately on a 1098 before - that s'unusual. Typically all mortgage interest should be reported in Box 1. I d'recommend double-checking what exactly that additional "interest represents" before entering it. It could be late fees or other charges that might not be deductible as mortgage interest. You might want to call your lender to clarify what that additional amount represents, or check your loan statements to see if it s'actually prepaid interest, points, or something else entirely. In H&R Block, you should only enter the amount from Box 1 as mortgage interest unless you re'certain that additional amount is also qualifying mortgage interest. Better to be conservative and get clarification from the lender first rather than risk claiming non-deductible amounts as mortgage interest.

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Sofia Torres

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I had this exact same issue when I refinanced in July 2023! The confusion with H&R Block is totally normal - the software gets overly cautious about multiple mortgage forms. Here's what worked for me: Enter each 1098 form as a completely separate mortgage entry. Don't combine any numbers yourself. When you get to the mortgage interest section, add the first lender with all their info (name, EIN, interest amount from Box 1), then add a second entry for your new lender with their complete information. The key is making sure both 1098 forms show identical property addresses. If there are any differences in how the address is formatted (like "St." vs "Street"), that can trigger the duplicate warning. Also, when H&R Block asks if this was a refinance situation, make sure to indicate "yes" - this helps the software understand why you have two lenders for the same property. Your final Schedule A will show the combined total from both forms on line 8a, so you'll get the full deduction you're entitled to. The warning about duplicates is just the software being extra careful, but you can proceed through it knowing your situation is legitimate. One last tip: if your new mortgage 1098 shows any points in Box 6, those will likely need to be amortized over the loan term rather than deducted all at once, but H&R Block should handle that calculation automatically when you indicate it was a refinance.

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Yara Nassar

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This is exactly the reassurance I needed! I was getting so frustrated with H&R Block's warnings that I almost gave up and hired a tax preparer. Your step-by-step explanation about entering each 1098 separately makes perfect sense now. I do have one quick follow-up question - when you mentioned making sure the property addresses are identical, what did you do if they weren't exactly the same format? Did you have to manually adjust one of them in the software, or is there a way to tell H&R Block that they're actually the same property despite the formatting differences? Also, thanks for the tip about the points needing to be amortized on a refinance. I definitely have points shown in Box 6 on my new loan, so I'll make sure to indicate it was a refinance when the software asks.

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Amina Toure

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I did this last year - donated about 300 items after downsizing. My advice is to create a spreadsheet NOW before you start donating. Column headings: Date donated, Charity name/address, Item description, Condition, Original cost, FMV, and Photo reference number. Take photos of EVERYTHING in groups (like "10 men's shirts" can be one photo). Number your photos to match your spreadsheet. Trust me, trying to reconstruct this at tax time is a nightmare.

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This is good advice but seems really time consuming. How long did it take you to document 300 items this way? I'm looking at closer to 600 items and wondering if it's even worth the tax deduction with that much work.

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@Oliver Zimmermann It honestly took me about 2-3 hours total spread over several weeks as I was packing things up. The key is doing it as you go rather than all at once. I d'spend 15-20 minutes each weekend photographing and cataloging whatever I d'sorted that week. For 600 items, you re'probably looking at maybe 4-5 hours total if you re'efficient about it. Given that I saved about $8,000 in taxes on my donations, that worked out to roughly $1,600+ per hour of documentation time - definitely worth it! Plus having everything organized made filling out Form 8283 a breeze instead of a nightmare. The alternative is either not taking the deductions losing (thousands or) scrambling at tax time trying to remember what you donated where and (possibly making mistakes that could trigger an audit .)The upfront time investment is totally worth the peace of mind and tax savings.

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Just want to add one more thing that helped me a lot - keep a running tally of your donations by charity as you go. The IRS gets suspicious if you claim massive deductions to obscure charities, but spreading $40k across well-known organizations like Goodwill, Salvation Army, local food banks, etc. looks much more legitimate. Also, make sure you're getting proper receipts from each charity with their tax ID number. Some smaller organizations are terrible about this, and without a proper receipt showing they're a qualified 501(c)(3), your deduction could get disallowed entirely. I learned this the hard way when one of my donations got questioned because the charity's receipt was just a handwritten note without their EIN. One last tip - if any of your items are unusual or potentially valuable (artwork, antiques, jewelry), consider getting a quick informal appraisal even if they're under $5,000. It shows good faith effort at accurate valuation and can save headaches later.

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AstroAlpha

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Great advice about spreading donations across multiple well-known charities! I hadn't thought about how concentrated donations might look suspicious. Quick question - do you know if there's a specific threshold or percentage that raises red flags, or is it more about the overall pattern? Also, regarding the informal appraisals for items under $5,000 - did you find any appraisers who were willing to do quick valuations at reasonable rates? Most of the ones I've contacted want to charge their full fee even for simple items, which doesn't make financial sense for something worth a few hundred dollars.

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Cole Roush

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Has anyone successfully amended their return for this? I have a similar situation with about $12,500 in excess deductions on termination, but I'm worried about triggering an audit if I file an amendment claiming all of these deductions against my income.

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I amended my 2023 return to include excess deductions from a trust termination (about $9,800). The amendment was processed without any issues in about 14 weeks. Just make sure you include a detailed statement explaining the regulatory basis for your treatment of the deductions.

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I had a very similar situation last year with excess deductions from a terminated family trust. What helped me was getting a clear breakdown from the trustee of exactly what types of deductions were included in the excess amount. In my case, I had about $8,200 in excess deductions that included administrative fees, legal costs, and some investment-related expenses. The key was determining which of these could be claimed as above-the-line deductions versus itemized deductions. For your 1040-X amendment, make sure to include Form 8960 if any of the trust income was subject to the Net Investment Income Tax - this is something I almost missed. Also, keep copies of all correspondence with the trustee about the deduction categorization, as the IRS may request additional documentation during processing. The good news is that if your excess deductions are properly categorized and you follow the 2020 regulations, you should be able to claim them without the old $3,000 capital loss limitation. Just be thorough with your documentation and consider getting professional help if the amounts are substantial.

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Miguel Diaz

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This is really helpful! I hadn't considered Form 8960 - my trust did have some investment income so I'll need to check if NIIT applies. Quick question: when you say "above-the-line deductions," are you referring to deductions that reduce AGI directly? I'm trying to understand which of my excess deductions would benefit me even though I take the standard deduction. Also, did you need to provide any special documentation beyond the K1 and your explanation statement when you filed your amendment?

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