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Just to add a detail that hasn't been mentioned yet - make sure you report ALL your New Zealand income even if it's under the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion threshold. You still have to report it, but you might not owe US tax on it if you qualify for the exclusion or if the foreign tax credit covers it. Also, keep in mind the New Zealand tax year is different from the US (they use April 1 to March 31). So be careful about which earnings fall into which US tax year.
So even if I don't end up owing any US taxes on the NZ income, I still need to report every dollar I earned there? And do I use the tax year based on when I actually got paid in the US, or when the work was performed in NZ?
Yes, you absolutely must report all foreign income regardless of whether you'll owe US taxes on it. The IRS requires full disclosure of worldwide income even if it's ultimately excluded or credited. Failing to report foreign income can result in severe penalties, even if you wouldn't have owed any tax on it. For US tax purposes, you report income in the tax year you received the payment, not when the work was performed. So if you got paid in 2024 for work done in 2023, it goes on your 2024 return. Don't worry about New Zealand's tax year - just focus on when you actually received the money according to US calendar year (January through December).
Has anyone used TurboTax or H&R Block software for reporting foreign income like this? I'm in a similar situation with work from Australia, but not sure if the regular tax software can handle it or if I need something more specialized.
I used TurboTax Premier for my foreign income from the UK last year, and it handled it fine. Make sure you don't just get the basic version - you need at least Deluxe, but Premier is better for foreign stuff. It walks you through Form 1116 pretty well. Just be prepared with all your foreign income docs and know how much foreign tax you paid before starting.
Something nobody has mentioned yet - check if you might qualify for the substantially equal periodic payments exception (SEPP or 72t distribution). If you're unemployed and need income, you could potentially convert your one-time withdrawal into the first of a series of payments that would exempt you from the 10% penalty. You'd need to continue taking distributions for at least 5 years or until you reach 59.5 (whichever is longer), but it's a legitimate way to access 401k funds penalty-free. There are calculators online to figure out how much you'd need to withdraw each year.
Isn't that super complicated to set up though? I looked into 72t distributions once and it seemed like if you make even a tiny mistake with the calculation or withdrawal timing, the IRS hits you with penalties for everything you've taken out. Has anyone here actually done this successfully?
It's definitely more complex than a standard withdrawal, but not impossible to manage. The key is getting the initial calculation right and being absolutely consistent with the withdrawals. You're right that any mistakes can trigger penalties on all distributions, which is why I recommend having a tax professional help set it up initially. But for someone who's lost their job and needs ongoing income, it can be worth the effort. I helped my brother set one up three years ago when he lost his job at 53, and it's been working fine - he just makes sure to take the exact calculated amount each year.
Just wondering - did you already file your taxes reporting this distribution? If not, you might consider rolling the distribution back into a qualified retirement account if you have the funds available. The IRS allows 60 days from the date you received the distribution to roll it back in without penalty. January 14th to now might be cutting it close, but if you're within that window, it could save you the headache of dealing with exceptions and penalties altogether.
This is exactly what I did when I had a similar issue! I didn't realize there were timing requirements for qualifying for the penalty exception. Once I found out my distribution didn't qualify, I scraped together the money and rolled it back into my IRA just under the 60-day limit. Saved me from the penalty completely AND preserved my retirement savings.
One thing to consider - if your late S election is accepted, make sure you understand the payroll tax requirements going forward! My accountant never told me I needed to set up payroll and pay myself a "reasonable salary" once my S Corp election went through. Ended up with penalties the next year because I just kept taking owner draws like I did as an LLC. The tax savings are great but there are definitely more compliance requirements.
What's considered a "reasonable salary" though? I've heard everything from 30% to 60% of profits should be salary. Is there an actual rule or is it just whatever you can justify?
There's no fixed percentage that's automatically considered "reasonable" - it depends on your industry, location, duties, and what comparable positions would earn. I've found that industry salary surveys are helpful for documenting your decision. For my construction management business, I settled on about 40% of profits as salary after researching what project managers in my area typically earn. The key is having documentation to support whatever number you choose. The IRS is mainly concerned with people taking a tiny salary and huge distributions to avoid payroll taxes. As long as you can justify your salary with market research, you're generally in good shape.
Don't forget about state taxes too! I had my federal S-Corp election accepted but then discovered my state doesn't automatically recognize S-Corps and required a separate election form. Had to pay state taxes as a C-Corp for a year before fixing it.
Oh crap I didn't even think about that. What state are you in? I'm in California and now I'm wondering if I need to do something separate for state taxes.
I switched from TurboTax to a local CPA three years ago and my refund increased by about $1,900. Why? Because I had NO IDEA about several deductions I qualified for: 1. I was taking standard deduction but should've been itemizing due to mortgage interest and property taxes 2. I had medical expenses that exceeded the threshold for deduction 3. I had been missing some education credits for my part-time masters program 4. Some of my charitable donations weren't being properly documented The software can only work with what you tell it. If you don't know what questions to ask or what info to enter, you'll miss stuff. A good accountant asks questions you wouldn't think of.
How much did the CPA charge compared to TurboTax? Was it still worth it after paying their fee?
The CPA charged me $350 while TurboTax Premium had been costing around $120. So yes, even after paying the higher fee, I was still ahead by roughly $1,670 that first year. The other benefit is that my CPA now keeps all my records from year to year, knows my situation, and proactively contacts me about tax law changes that might affect me. For example, he reached out last fall to suggest some year-end moves that saved me even more. That kind of personalized advice just doesn't happen with software.
I'm a tax preparer (not an accountant but I work for one of the big tax prep companies) and I see this ALL THE TIME. The difference between self-prepared returns and professional preparation isn't because the math is different - it's because we know what questions to ask. Just last week I had a client who'd been using online software for years. She mentioned offhand that she drives her elderly mom to doctor appointments regularly. Turns out she qualified as her mom's caretaker for tax purposes and was eligible for dependent care credits she'd been missing for YEARS. Found her over $3,200 in additional refund just from that one conversation.
That's really eye opening! I think I'll at least consult with a professional this year to see what I might be missing. My situation isn't super complicated but I do have some student loan interest and did some freelance work last year, so maybe there's stuff I don't know about. Thanks for sharing your perspective!
Sofia Ramirez
My wife and I switched from paper filing to TurboTax a few years ago, and I'll admit it's been worth it for us. Our main reason was because we started a small side business selling handmade items online, and the business expense categories were confusing us. The interview-style questions in TurboTax definitely made it easier to understand what we could legitimately deduct. It also automatically imports our W-2s and 1099s which saves time on data entry. That said, if you actually ENJOY doing taxes by hand and understand all the forms well, there's nothing wrong with continuing that way. You're not necessarily missing out on deductions if you're thorough and stay up to date with tax law changes.
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Dmitry Popov
β’How much do you typically pay for TurboTax? Their pricing is so confusing with all the different versions and upsells.
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Sofia Ramirez
β’We pay about $150 for the Self-Employed version plus state filing. You're right that their pricing is confusing - they start you on a cheaper version then tell you halfway through that you need to upgrade to handle certain forms. The most annoying part is that they increase the price every year while adding very few new features. We've looked at cheaper alternatives like FreeTaxUSA but haven't made the switch yet because we're already familiar with TurboTax's interface.
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Ava Rodriguez
Has anyone used a CPA vs tax software and can compare the costs/benefits? I've always used software but wondering if a professional would find more deductions.
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Miguel Ortiz
β’I switched from TurboTax to a CPA three years ago and it's been worth every penny. Cost is $350 but she found nearly $2,000 in deductions I was missing related to my consulting work. Plus she provides advice throughout the year, not just at tax time. The biggest difference is that software can only work with the information you provide and the questions it's programmed to ask. A good CPA asks probing questions based on your specific situation and knows the more obscure parts of tax code that might apply to you.
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