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I mailed in my return back in May because I never received my IP PIN for 2023. I've heard that e-filing gets processed in days while paper returns take weeks, but this seems excessive. It's still not even showing up in the system when I check online. I called the IRS last month and they just said to wait 16 weeks - does that seem right compared to what others experience? I'm getting concerned because they're also holding my 2021, 2022, and 2023 returns. I never received any of my Child Tax Credit advance payments either, unlike my colleagues who got theirs promptly. Is there anything I can do to expedite this or at least confirm they actually have my return?
My two teenagers will be getting their first summer jobs next year and I'm confused about how that affects my tax filing. If they make less than the standard deduction, do they still need to file their own returns? Should I still claim them as dependents on my 1040? We moved to the US about 6 years ago, so we're still learning how the tax system works here, especially when it comes to kids transitioning into working young adults. Do their earnings affect my ability to claim them as dependents? Does their income somehow get added to our household income? Just looking for some clarity before next year's tax season. Thanks in advance for any help!
One thing no one mentioned - if your teens are saving for college, having a summer job can be GREAT for Roth IRA contributions! They can contribute up to 100% of their earned income (max $6,500 in 2023) even if they don't owe taxes. My son puts half his summer job money into a Roth IRA, and it'll grow tax-free for decades. Since they're under the standard deduction, they're in a 0% tax bracket - literally the perfect time to make Roth contributions!
Great question! As someone who went through this same confusion when my kids started working, I can confirm what others have said - your teens' summer jobs won't prevent you from claiming them as dependents as long as you still provide more than half their support. One additional tip: make sure your teens understand the difference between federal and state filing requirements. Some states have lower income thresholds than federal, so they might need to file a state return even if they don't need to file federal. Also, even if they don't owe taxes, filing can be beneficial because many states offer refundable credits for low-income workers. Since you mentioned you're still learning the US tax system, I'd recommend having your teens use the IRS Free File program when they do file - it's completely free for people under certain income thresholds and walks them through the process step by step. It's a great way for them to learn while ensuring everything is done correctly. The transition from "kids" to "working young adults" in the tax system can feel overwhelming, but you're asking the right questions early. Planning ahead will make next year's tax season much smoother!
Just got married last year so this is our first time trying the married filing jointly option on our taxes. We're totally confused by the results. We have two kids and can claim the $4,000 child tax credit. I ran the numbers a few different ways and I'm scratching my head at what we're seeing. If I claimed both kids filing separately, I'd get about $5,800 back. If my wife claimed both kids filing separately, she'd get around $4,200. But filing jointly, we'd only get $3,600 back total? How does that make any sense? I thought filing jointly was supposed to be beneficial since it would pull some of my income out of the 24% tax bracket. Instead we're looking at getting less money back than either separate filing option. Are we missing something obvious here? This can't be right.
Did you use the same tax software to calculate all three scenarios? Different software can give different results. I'd run all three options (you claiming kids, spouse claiming kids, filing jointly) through the same program to make sure you're getting consistent calculations. Also, check if you qualify for Head of Household status when filing separately - that could make a big difference but you have to meet specific requirements.
The marriage penalty is definitely frustrating, but there are a few things you should double-check before concluding that filing separately is better: 1. Make sure you're comparing apples to apples - look at your actual tax LIABILITY (line 16 on Form 1040), not just the refund amounts. Different withholding patterns throughout the year can make refunds misleading. 2. With your combined income of ~$170k, you're likely hitting the child tax credit phase-out when filing jointly (starts at $150k for joint filers). But filing separately means you lose access to several valuable credits entirely - like the Child and Dependent Care Credit, education credits, and student loan interest deduction if you have any student loans. 3. Consider maxing out pre-tax contributions (401k, HSA, etc.) to reduce your AGI below phase-out thresholds. Even small reductions in AGI can have big impacts when you're right at the edge of these cliffs. 4. Run the calculations one more time using the same software for all scenarios to make sure there aren't any inconsistencies in how deductions/credits are being calculated. The "marriage penalty" is real, but often the lost credits from filing separately end up making joint filing the better choice overall, even if the immediate refund looks smaller.
I feel like I must be missing something obvious here, but I've been googling like crazy and getting conflicting info. I've been using H&R Block software for filing taxes since like 2015. Never had a single issue - always got my refund within 2-3 weeks tops. Even when I changed jobs twice in one year, everything processed normally. My wife and I submitted our joint return with both our W2s on January 22nd this year. The IRS "Where's My Refund" tool initially gave us an expected deposit date of February 18th. I kept checking it regularly, and around mid-March the wording changed to something like "Your tax return is still being processed" with no date anymore. It's now October, and we're still waiting on our $4,380 refund with zero explanation. Our return wasn't complicated - just standard deductions, no business income, no itemizing. When I call the IRS, I can never get through to a real person. Has anyone dealt with this kind of extreme delay before? Is there anything at all we can do to move this along? We were counting on that money for some home repairs that we've had to keep postponing.
Check your tax transcript for code 570! If you see that, it means there's a hold on your account. Mine was delayed for similar reasons and that's what was happening. You might also see code 971 which means they sent a notice (that you may not have received).
This is good advice! I would add that code 420 means your return is being audited, code 424 means they're examining your return but it's not a full audit, and code 971 followed by 570 usually means they adjusted something and are holding your refund until the review is complete. You can get your tax transcript online at irs.gov/transcript - it's way more informative than the "Where's My Refund" tool.
I went through something very similar last year - 8 month delay on what should have been a straightforward refund. The combination of approaches mentioned here is your best bet. Start with requesting your tax transcript online immediately. This will show you if there are any specific codes indicating why it's being held. If you see codes like 570, 971, or 424, at least you'll know there's an active review happening rather than your return just sitting in a pile somewhere. Then I'd recommend a two-pronged approach: contact both the Taxpayer Advocate Service AND your congressional representative's office. The TAS is great for systemic issues and they have more time to work on your case, while congressional offices have those direct IRS lines that can get faster answers. If those don't work within 2-3 weeks, the Claimyr service really does work for actually getting through to the IRS phone system. I was skeptical too but after months of busy signals, being able to talk to an actual agent made all the difference. Don't wait any longer - 9 months is well beyond any reasonable processing time and you have multiple legitimate avenues to escalate this. The key is being persistent and using multiple approaches simultaneously rather than trying one thing at a time.
This is such a comprehensive strategy! As someone new to dealing with IRS delays, I really appreciate you laying out the multi-pronged approach. The idea of doing multiple things simultaneously rather than waiting for each one to play out makes total sense - especially when we're already at 9+ months. Quick question about the tax transcript - when you check it online, does it update in real-time or is there typically a delay in when new codes/statuses show up there? I want to make sure I'm not missing something just because of timing. Also, for anyone else reading this who might be in a similar situation - do you think there's a particular order we should try these approaches in, or is it really best to start them all at once?
Great questions! The tax transcript typically updates weekly (usually on Fridays), so it's not real-time but pretty current. I'd check it first thing since it's free and instant - if you see specific codes, that gives you concrete information to reference when contacting the other services. For timing, I'd actually recommend starting the transcript check and TAS application immediately, then give congressional office a call the same week. The reason is that both TAS and congressional offices can take 1-2 weeks just to assign someone to your case, so getting in their queue early is important. Save Claimyr for if you don't hear substantive updates within 2-3 weeks from the other approaches, since it's paid and works best when you have specific questions to ask the IRS agent rather than just "where's my refund." One thing I learned the hard way - when you contact each service, mention that you've already been waiting 9+ months and that it's causing financial hardship. That tends to get your case prioritized faster than just saying "my refund is delayed.
So I'm freaking out a bit here. Back in 2017, I thought I was being super responsible by opening a Roth IRA with Vanguard. I maxed it out ($5500) and kept doing that every year since because I thought I was setting myself up for retirement. Fast forward to last week - I was reading some random finance article that completely blindsided me. Apparently, I wasn't even eligible to contribute to a Roth IRA from 2017 through 2019 because of my filing status and income! I had no idea there were income limits for Roth IRAs! Nobody ever mentioned this to me when I set it up. I'm totally confused about what to do now. Do I owe penalties? Can I fix this retroactively? Will the IRS come after me? I'm worried I've messed up my taxes for multiple years without even knowing it. Has anyone dealt with excess contributions to a Roth IRA before? What's the process for correcting this kind of mistake years later? Really need some guidance here.
You might want to check if you qualified for any partial Roth contribution during those years instead of assuming you couldn't contribute anything. The income limits have a phaseout range where you can make reduced contributions. For 2017, the phaseout for single filers was between $118,000-$133,000. Unless you were completely above the upper threshold, you might have been eligible to contribute something.
Omg thank you for pointing this out! I just checked my 2017 tax return and my MAGI was around $129,000 which means I was in the phaseout range. So I would have been eligible for a partial contribution. Does that change how I handle this situation? Do I only need to remove part of each year's contribution?
Yes, this changes everything for those years! If you were in the phaseout range, you need to calculate your maximum allowable contribution for each year based on your specific MAGI. The formula is a bit complex, but basically you take the maximum contribution limit minus a reduction based on how far into the phaseout range you were. For 2017 with a $129,000 MAGI, you'd calculate: $5,500 - (($129,000 - $118,000) / ($133,000 - $118,000)) ร $5,500. That works out to about $1,433 you were allowed to contribute. So you'd only need to remove the excess amount above that ($4,067) rather than the full $5,500. You'll need to do this calculation for each year you were in the phaseout range. This could save you significant penalties and taxes on the removal of contributions that were actually legitimate!
This is a really helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation but from 2020-2022. One thing I learned from my tax preparer is that you should also check if your employer offers a 401(k) - if you have workplace retirement coverage, it can affect your ability to deduct Traditional IRA contributions, which impacts the backdoor Roth strategy that people mentioned. Also, make sure to keep detailed records of everything when you're going through the correction process. The IRS may ask for documentation years later, and having your Form 5329s, withdrawal confirmations from Vanguard, and calculation worksheets all organized will save you major headaches if they ever audit this. One last tip - if you end up owing multiple years of the 6% excise tax, you can sometimes set up a payment plan with the IRS rather than paying it all at once. Just call them (or use that Claimyr service others mentioned) to discuss options.
@Sean Doyle The 6% excise tax definitely qualifies for IRS payment plans! I had to set one up for my situation covering 2020-2022. You can apply online through the IRS website or over the phone. The excise tax is treated just like any other tax debt for payment plan purposes. One thing to keep in mind though - interest and penalties continue to accrue on unpaid balances even while you re'on a payment plan, so it s'still better to pay it off as quickly as you can manage. But it s'definitely better than trying to come up with thousands of dollars all at once, especially when you re'already dealing with the stress of correcting multiple years of mistakes. Also wanted to add that when I called the IRS about my payment plan, they were actually pretty helpful in explaining the whole process. The agent walked me through exactly how the excise tax worked and confirmed my calculations were correct before I submitted everything. Sometimes the IRS gets a bad rap, but the individual agents I ve'dealt with have generally been pretty reasonable to work with.
The 6% excise tax is treated like any other tax debt by the IRS, so yes, you can definitely set up a payment plan for it. I had to do this when I owed excise tax for three years - it was going to be around $900 total and I couldn't pay it all at once. You can apply for an installment agreement online through the IRS website or by calling them. They're usually pretty reasonable about it, especially if you're being proactive about fixing the underlying issue. Just make sure you're current on all your other tax filings first, as they won't approve payment plans if you have unfiled returns. The key is to get the correction process started as soon as possible because the 6% penalty keeps accumulating each year the excess contributions remain in the account. Even if you're on a payment plan for past penalties, you want to stop the clock from running on new ones!
Nathaniel Mikhaylov
Did you receive any CP01 notices? Those indicate identity verification issues. Have you checked your transcript for TC 570 codes? What about your account transcript - sometimes that updates before your return transcript.
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Eleanor Foster
I've seen this pattern before - when multiple tax years are being held simultaneously along with missing CTC payments, it often indicates a systemic account flag rather than just a processing delay. The fact that your return isn't even showing in the system after this long suggests it may be stuck in the Taxpayer Protection Program queue. Have you tried requesting your Account Transcript (not just Return Transcript) through IRS.gov? Sometimes the account transcript will show transaction codes even when the return transcript is blank. Also, if you haven't received any correspondence from the IRS at all, I'd recommend updating your address on file - sometimes verification letters get sent to old addresses and the lack of response keeps the account frozen.
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Liv Park
You can verify your address through the IRS online account portal at irs.gov - just create an account or log in if you have one already. It'll show you exactly what address they have on file. You can also see it on any transcript you're able to pull. If there's a mismatch, you can update it online immediately rather than calling. Given that you mentioned colleagues received their CTC payments while you didn't, and multiple years are being held, I'd definitely lean toward this being a systemic account issue rather than just normal processing delays. The Taxpayer Protection Program flags can sometimes cascade across multiple years once triggered.
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Drake
You can verify your address on file by logging into your IRS online account at irs.gov - it will show the address they have without needing to call. Also, if you have access to any prior year tax transcripts, they'll show your address as of when those returns were filed. Another option is to check any recent IRS correspondence you might have received - they always print the address they have on file on official notices. Given that multiple years are affected and you're missing CTC payments, I'd definitely recommend filing a Form 911 with the Taxpayer Advocate Service if you're experiencing any financial hardship from the delays. They can often cut through the red tape when there are systemic issues like this.
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