IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Ava Martinez

•

After reading through all these detailed experiences, I think there's a clear consensus emerging that might save you a lot of headaches. As someone who's dealt with similar business vehicle decisions, here are the key takeaways: **Keep it simple**: Since you're already tracking mileage and taking deductions as a single-member LLC, you're getting all the tax benefits available. Transferring ownership won't create any additional tax advantages - the IRS treats your LLC as a disregarded entity anyway. **Watch out for hidden costs**: Multiple people here experienced significant insurance premium increases (25-40% seems common), unexpected sales tax on transfers, and administrative complications that far outweigh any perceived benefits. **Personal use complications**: Since you mentioned potentially using the vehicle for personal trips, LLC ownership would require you to track and potentially report personal use as taxable compensation - adding another layer of complexity. **Focus on what matters**: Your energy is better spent growing your reselling business and maintaining good mileage records rather than creating unnecessary paperwork and costs. My suggestion: Keep the vehicle in your personal name, continue tracking business mileage diligently, and invest any money you would have spent on higher insurance premiums or transfer costs back into inventory or business growth instead. Sometimes the most "professional" decision is the one that keeps things efficient and cost-effective.

0 coins

@Ava Martinez This summary is spot-on and really helps crystallize all the valuable insights shared in this thread! As someone new to both business ownership and this community, I m'grateful for everyone taking the time to share their real experiences rather than just theoretical advice. What strikes me most is how the obvious "business" decision transferring (the vehicle to look more professional would) actually cost more money and create unnecessary complications without any tax benefits. The insurance premium increases alone that people mentioned would eat up hundreds of dollars annually for zero additional deduction value. I m'definitely going to follow the consensus advice here: keep personal ownership, maintain excellent mileage tracking, and focus my energy on growing the business rather than creating administrative headaches. It s'reassuring to see so many experienced business owners confirming that sometimes the simplest approach really is the smartest one. This thread has been incredibly educational - thank you to everyone who shared their actual costs, complications, and lessons learned!

0 coins

Ava Hernandez

•

Reading through all these experiences has been incredibly valuable! As someone who's been managing business vehicle expenses for several years, I want to add one practical tip that hasn't been mentioned yet. If you decide to stick with personal ownership (which based on this thread seems like the smart move), make sure you're maximizing your current deduction strategy. Since you mentioned you're already tracking mileage, consider doing a quick calculation to see if the actual expense method might work better for you than the standard mileage rate. With an older, paid-off vehicle, your depreciation deductions might be minimal, but if you have significant maintenance, repairs, or unusually high insurance costs, the actual expense method could potentially give you higher deductions. You'd calculate the business percentage of your total vehicle expenses (gas, insurance, maintenance, repairs, registration, etc.) rather than using the per-mile rate. Most people default to standard mileage because it's simpler, but it's worth running the numbers both ways each year to see which gives you the better deduction. Your tax software or accountant can help with this comparison. The key point everyone's made still stands though - you can explore these optimization strategies with personal ownership just as easily as with LLC ownership, but without all the insurance premium increases and administrative complications!

0 coins

@Ava Hernandez That s'a really useful tip about comparing the actual expense method versus standard mileage! I hadn t'thought about running those calculations annually to optimize my deductions. Since my vehicle is older and I do tend to have some maintenance costs throughout the year, it might be worth seeing if tracking actual expenses gives me a better deduction than the standard rate. Do you happen to know if you have to choose one method at the beginning of the year, or can you calculate both ways when filing and pick whichever is higher? I ve'been using the standard mileage rate because it seemed simpler, but if the math works out better with actual expenses, I d'definitely want to switch. This whole thread has been such an eye-opener - not just about the vehicle transfer question, but about really understanding the different ways to approach vehicle expense deductions in general. Thanks for adding that practical optimization angle!

0 coins

Freya Ross

•

@Ava Hernandez Great point about comparing methods! To answer @Giovanni Conti s question'- you generally need to choose your method in the first year you use a vehicle for business and stick with it, but there are some exceptions. If you start with standard mileage, you can switch to actual expenses in later years, but if you start with actual expenses and take (depreciation , you)re typically'locked into that method for the life of the vehicle. Since your vehicle is already paid off and you ve been'using standard mileage, you have flexibility to switch to actual expenses if the numbers work out better. Just make sure to keep detailed records of all vehicle-related expenses if you go that route - gas, insurance, maintenance, repairs, registration fees, etc. Given everything discussed in this thread about keeping things simple while maximizing deductions, it might be worth having your tax preparer run both calculations this year to see which method benefits you more going forward.

0 coins

StarSailor

•

I went through this exact same situation last year and it was incredibly frustrating! After reading all these helpful responses, I wanted to share what ultimately worked for me to get answers. I tried calling the IRS multiple times with no luck, but what finally helped was requesting my tax account transcript online. It showed that there had been a very small adjustment to my return (literally a $3 difference in calculated tax) that I never would have noticed, but it triggered the automatic switch to paper check. The transcript showed an adjustment code 290, which meant they corrected a math error on my return. Even though the error was tiny and didn't affect my refund amount, their system automatically converted it to paper check so they could include documentation explaining the change. What's really helpful is that once you understand the specific reason (whether it's a bank issue, adjustment, or something else), you can take steps to prevent it next year. In my case, I just need to be more careful with my math when filing! For immediate relief while waiting for your check, definitely ask your bank about their policy on government check holds. Mine released funds immediately when I deposited the Treasury check in person, which was a lifesaver for covering bills. Hang in there - I know how stressful this is when you're counting on that money!

0 coins

Jean Claude

•

This is really helpful - thank you for sharing your experience! The adjustment code 290 detail is exactly the kind of specific information that would be so useful to have upfront instead of having to dig for it. A $3 math error triggering a whole switch to paper check seems like overkill, but at least now you know what to look for. I'm definitely going to request my tax transcript after reading your post. Even if there wasn't an adjustment in my case, it sounds like the transcript might show other codes that could explain what happened. The tip about depositing Treasury checks in person for immediate fund availability is gold - I had no idea that was even an option! My bank has been pretty good about releasing funds quickly, but knowing I could potentially get immediate access by going to a branch instead of using mobile deposit could make a huge difference for timing with bills. It's just so frustrating that we all have to become IRS code experts to understand what should be straightforward communication about our own refunds. But thank you for taking the time to share what worked for you - it gives me hope that I can figure out my situation too!

0 coins

Omar Hassan

•

I'm going through this exact same frustrating situation right now! Filed in early February with direct deposit and have been getting DD refunds for years. Just checked WMR this morning and it shows "refund will be mailed" with absolutely no explanation. Reading through all these responses has been incredibly helpful though - I had no idea there were so many potential causes. The bank merger/system upgrade issues that several people mentioned really resonates because my credit union did some "backend modernization" last fall that they said wouldn't affect customers, but now I'm wondering if it impacted how they handle government deposits. What's most frustrating is that the IRS clearly knows WHY they made the switch (whether it's verification issues, adjustments, etc.) but just won't tell us through the WMR tool. We're left playing guessing games when they have all the answers. I'm definitely going to try the tax transcript route that StarSailor mentioned to look for any adjustment codes, and I'll call my credit union to ask about their recent system changes. At least now I have a roadmap instead of just being stressed and confused! Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - it's oddly comforting to know this happens to so many people and there are actual explanations (even if the IRS won't tell us directly).

0 coins

I'm in the exact same boat as you! Filed in January with direct deposit and just discovered yesterday that mine was switched to mail too. The "backend modernization" you mentioned with your credit union is interesting - my bank did something similar last year where they "upgraded their electronic payment processing systems" but assured customers nothing would change on our end. After reading through this thread, I'm starting to think these bank system upgrades might be more disruptive to government deposits than they let on. It makes sense that the IRS verification systems might not immediately recognize the new processing protocols even if our account numbers stay the same. I'm definitely following your plan to check my tax transcript and call my bank about their system changes. It's such a relief to find this thread and realize we're not alone in this frustrating situation! The fact that so many people are dealing with the same unexplained switch really highlights how poorly the IRS communicates these issues. Fingers crossed we both get our checks soon and can figure out how to prevent this headache next year!

0 coins

Andre Moreau

•

If ur making more than 10 loans a year u might be considered a dealer which has completely different tax implications. My accountant told me to keep it under 10 active loans at any time to avoid this classification. Otherwise the IRS might consider the loans inventory and interest as ordinary income not investment income!

0 coins

This isn't necessarily true. The "dealer" classification depends on many factors beyond just the number of loans - including your intent, how you market your services, your expertise, etc. I know people with 15+ loans who aren't classified as dealers. Better to look at the complete picture.

0 coins

Cass Green

•

As a newcomer to hard money lending taxation, I'd strongly recommend documenting everything from day one. Keep detailed records of all loan agreements, payment schedules, property appraisals, and any expenses related to your lending activities (legal fees, property inspections, etc.). One thing that caught my attention from this thread is the complexity around business vs. investment classification. From what I'm reading, it seems like the IRS looks at factors like regularity, time commitment, and whether you're actively seeking borrowers. If you're just passively lending to a few contacts, that's different from actively marketing lending services. Also consider setting up a separate bank account for your lending activities regardless of how you classify it - this makes record-keeping much cleaner and demonstrates to the IRS that you're treating this seriously. Having clean books will be invaluable whether you end up filing Schedule B or Schedule C.

0 coins

Great advice on the separate bank account! I'm just starting out with hard money lending and hadn't thought about that organizational aspect. Quick question - when you mention documenting property appraisals, are those something I should be getting for every loan I make, or just for larger amounts? I'm planning to start with smaller loans ($25k-50k range) and wondering if the appraisal costs would eat too much into my returns on those amounts.

0 coins

This is such a timely question! I actually work as a tax preparer and see this situation more often now with all the social media giveaways. The key distinction everyone's touching on is whether it's truly a "gift" versus compensation for services. The IRS has pretty strict criteria for what qualifies as a gift - it has to be made out of "detached and disinterested generosity" with no expectation of benefit to the giver. The moment you appear in a video, even briefly, you're providing promotional value to the creator, which disqualifies it from being a gift. One thing I'd add that I haven't seen mentioned - if you win a large amount (like $100k), you might want to consider making quarterly estimated tax payments instead of waiting until next year's filing. The IRS can charge underpayment penalties if you owe more than $1,000 when you file, especially on a large windfall like that. Also, state taxes vary widely on prize winnings - some states don't tax them at all, others treat them as regular income. Definitely worth checking your state's specific rules too!

0 coins

Mia Green

•

This is really helpful information! I had no idea about the quarterly payment thing. Quick question - when you say "underpayment penalties," about how much are we talking? Like if someone wins $50k and doesn't make quarterly payments, what kind of penalty would they face when filing? I'm asking because I entered a bunch of giveaways recently and want to be prepared just in case I actually win something big.

0 coins

@Mia Green The underpayment penalty rate changes annually but it s'currently around 8% it (was 7% for 2023 .)The penalty is calculated on the amount you underpaid for each quarter you missed. So for a $50k prize win, you d'owe roughly $12-15k in federal taxes depending on your bracket. If you didn t'make any quarterly payments and owed more than $1,000 when filing, you could face penalties of several hundred to over a thousand dollars depending on when during the year you won. The good news is there are safe harbor rules - if you pay at least 90% of the current year s'tax liability OR 100% of last year s'total tax 110% (if your prior year AGI was over $150k ,)you can avoid penalties even if you underpay on the prize winnings specifically. My advice if you win big: set aside 25-30% immediately, and consider making an estimated payment for the quarter you won. Better to be safe than sorry with the IRS!

0 coins

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is what happens if you're under 18 when you win. My 16-year-old cousin won $8,000 from a TikTok challenge last year and we had no idea how to handle it tax-wise since minors usually don't file their own returns. Turns out that prize winnings are still taxable income for minors, and if it's over the standard deduction threshold, they need to file their own return (or their parents can include it on theirs in some cases). The creator actually required a parent to sign all the paperwork before releasing the money, which was smart on their part. Also learned that minors can't enter into legal contracts in most states, so technically a lot of these giveaways might not even be legally binding if the winner is under 18. But most creators just require parental consent to avoid issues. Just something to keep in mind for anyone with kids who might win these things!

0 coins

Logan Chiang

•

This is such an important point that people don't think about! I'm actually curious - if a minor wins a large prize like this, are the parents responsible for setting aside money for taxes or does that responsibility fall on the minor themselves? Like if your cousin spent all $8,000 before tax time, who would the IRS come after for the tax bill? Also, do the parents' tax brackets affect how much tax the minor owes on prize winnings, or is it calculated separately?

0 coins

This discussion has been incredibly helpful! I'm currently facing a similar situation where I just started freelance consulting work alongside my regular W-2 job. Like many others here, I initially checked box 2(c) on my W-4 thinking it applied to any second income source. After reading through everyone's experiences, I'm convinced that the additional withholding approach through my W-2 job is the way to go rather than dealing with quarterly payments. For my expected $15K in consulting income, I'm planning to add about $4,000-4,500 in additional annual withholding to cover both the self-employment tax and income tax portions. One thing I wanted to add that I haven't seen mentioned much - for those doing consulting work, don't overlook travel expenses if you ever need to meet clients in person. Mileage, parking, even meals during client meetings can often be deducted as business expenses. I started tracking these from day one using a simple mileage app on my phone. The advice about being conservative with withholding calculations really resonates with me. I'd rather get a small refund than scramble to find extra money at tax time, especially since this is my first year juggling both types of income. Thanks to everyone for sharing such practical, real-world guidance!

0 coins

Ryder Ross

•

This has been such an incredibly comprehensive discussion! I'm dealing with the exact same situation - just found out my second job will be 1099 contractor work instead of W-2, so I need to correct my W-4 where I mistakenly checked box 2(c). Reading through everyone's experiences, the path forward is really clear: uncheck box 2(c) since it's specifically for multiple W-2 jobs, then use additional withholding on line 4(c) to cover the estimated taxes on my 1099 income. The breakdown of planning for about 25-30% of 1099 income to go toward taxes (15.3% self-employment tax plus regular income tax) has been eye-opening. What I really appreciate about this thread is how everyone has shared practical, real-world advice that goes way beyond generic tax guidance. Tips like setting up a separate business checking account, immediately setting aside the tax portion when payments arrive, tracking expenses from day one, and being able to adjust withholding throughout the year - these are the details that make all the difference. I'm planning to be conservative with my additional withholding for this first year since I'd much rather get a small refund than owe money and face penalties. Once I have actual data from a full year of mixed income, I can fine-tune the calculations. Thanks to everyone for creating such a valuable resource for those of us navigating this W-2/1099 combination for the first time!

0 coins

Prev1...298299300301302...5643Next