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Don't forget to look into the step-up in basis rules if these stocks were actually inherited rather than gifted to you from your grandparents! The language in your post makes it sound like maybe your grandparents passed away and you inherited these stocks? If they were inherited (not gifted while your grandparents were alive), you likely received a "step-up" in basis to the market value on the date of their death. This would be HUGELY beneficial for tax purposes because any gains that occurred during your grandparents' lifetime would never be taxed.
Sorry for the confusion! My grandparents are still alive and well - they just helped set up an investment account for me when I was younger and have been managing it. So these were gifts they made to me over time, not an inheritance. Though that step-up in basis thing sounds like a nice tax benefit for inherited assets.
Thanks for clarifying! In that case, you'd indeed be working with the original cost basis as others have mentioned. Just as an FYI for future reference - the step-up in basis is indeed one of the biggest tax advantages in the tax code. When someone inherits appreciated assets after a person's death, the cost basis "steps up" to the fair market value on the date of death. This effectively erases all capital gains that occurred during the deceased person's lifetime. It's why some wealthy families hold appreciated assets until death rather than selling them during their lifetime. Definitely something to keep in mind for estate planning when you're older!
Just wanted to add another perspective on the transfer process itself - you might want to consider whether a direct stock transfer is actually the best approach here. Instead of transferring the actual stocks to your partner's account, you could potentially sell the stocks in your account, pay any capital gains tax (which might be minimal if your cost basis is relatively high), and then gift the cash proceeds. This would give your partner a "clean slate" to invest in whatever they think is best, rather than inheriting your grandparents' old stock picks and cost basis. The downside is you'd pay capital gains tax now instead of deferring it, but the upside is your partner gets full flexibility and a fresh cost basis at current market prices. Given that you mentioned they're really good at investing, they might prefer to start with cash and build their own portfolio rather than managing positions they didn't choose. Just something to consider - the "right" approach depends on your specific tax situation and investment goals!
That's actually a really smart point I hadn't thought about! The tax implications of selling vs transferring could work out better depending on how much the stocks have appreciated since my grandparents bought them. If the original cost basis is pretty low (which it might be if they've been holding some of these stocks for years), then my partner would eventually face a huge capital gains bill when they sell. But if I sell them now and gift the cash, I'd pay the capital gains at my current tax rate, and then my partner gets to invest that money with a fresh start. Plus like you said, my partner might have totally different investment ideas than what my grandparents picked years ago. They're really into tech stocks and ESG investing, while I think my grandparents went for more traditional blue chip stuff. Starting fresh with cash might actually align better with their investment strategy. Do you know if there's a way to figure out roughly what the capital gains would be before deciding which route to take?
I'm really sorry you're dealing with this situation - it's incredibly frustrating when you're the victim of theft and still have to navigate all these tax complications. Based on what others have shared here, it sounds like you'll need to take a multi-step approach: report the HSA distribution on Form 8889, file Form 4684 for the theft loss, and include detailed documentation with your return. The key thing seems to be having that police report and court documentation to prove it was actually theft. One thing I'd suggest is keeping meticulous records of all your legal expenses related to recovering this money too - some of those might be deductible as well. And definitely include a clear statement with your return explaining the situation so the IRS understands why you're claiming the theft loss. It's awful that the HSA company isn't being more helpful, but unfortunately that seems pretty common in domestic situations. At least you're taking all the right steps legally. Hang in there - hopefully the court proceedings will resolve in your favor soon.
This is such helpful advice! I just wanted to add that when you're documenting everything for the IRS, make sure to include the timeline of when you discovered the theft versus when the transactions actually occurred. The IRS sometimes looks at whether you reported it promptly after discovery. Also, if you're going through divorce proceedings anyway, your attorney might be able to help structure the settlement to address the tax implications. Sometimes they can require the other party to be responsible for any taxes owed on money they stole, though I know that doesn't help with filing this year's return. Good luck with everything - what a nightmare situation to be in!
This is such a complex situation, and I feel for you dealing with theft during what's already a stressful time with legal proceedings. One additional point that might help - if you end up having to pay any taxes this year despite the theft deduction limitations, you may want to consider filing Form 911 (Request for Taxpayer Advocate Service Assistance) with the IRS. The Taxpayer Advocate Service sometimes helps in cases where taxpayers are facing financial hardship due to circumstances beyond their control, like theft. Also, make sure when you file Form 4684 that you use the fair market value of what was stolen (the $2,700) and not try to calculate any depreciation - stolen cash/funds are reported at face value. And definitely keep copies of everything - the police report, court filings, HSA statements showing the unauthorized transactions, and any correspondence with the HSA provider about disputing the charges. The timing is unfortunate since you're filing before the legal case is resolved, but documenting everything properly now will make things much smoother if you need to file amended returns later based on the court outcome. Hang in there!
This is really comprehensive advice! I hadn't thought about the Taxpayer Advocate Service - that could be a lifeline if we end up owing more than we can handle this year. The timing really is awful having to file before everything is resolved legally. One question about Form 911 - do you know if there's a minimum threshold for the amount involved before they'll consider helping? The $2,700 feels significant to us, especially with all the legal costs we're already dealing with, but I wasn't sure if the TAS typically gets involved in cases this size. Also, when you mention keeping the fair market value at $2,700 - since this was cash taken from the HSA account, there shouldn't be any depreciation calculation anyway, right? Just want to make sure I understand that correctly. Thanks for the encouragement - some days it feels like we're drowning in paperwork and legal complications, but having a clear path forward on the tax side helps a lot.
Just wanted to share another perspective on this - I've been using FreeTaxUSA for years and while the $7.99 Deluxe upgrade for amendments isn't ideal, it's still way cheaper than most alternatives. I compared it to H&R Block online last year and they wanted $50+ for amendment services. One thing I haven't seen mentioned here is that FreeTaxUSA's Deluxe also includes some other useful features like priority customer support and audit assistance, so you're not just paying for the amendment capability alone. If you're someone who files complex returns or might need help during tax season, the upgrade can actually provide good value beyond just the amendment feature. That said, definitely worth trying TaxAct's free option first if your situation is straightforward - just make sure to double-check everything before submitting since free services usually have less hand-holding through the process.
That's a really good point about the additional features in FreeTaxUSA's Deluxe package! I was so focused on just the amendment cost that I didn't think about the audit assistance and priority support being included too. For someone like me who gets anxious about tax stuff, having that extra support might actually be worth the $7.99 even beyond just needing the amendment feature. I'm still planning to try TaxAct first since it could save me money, but knowing that FreeTaxUSA's upgrade includes more than just amendments makes me feel better about potentially paying for it if needed. Thanks for pointing out that broader value proposition!
I've been following this thread with interest since I'm in a similar boat! Just wanted to add that I called FreeTaxUSA customer service yesterday to confirm the amendment situation, and they were pretty upfront about it - yes, you absolutely need the Deluxe upgrade for federal amendments, no exceptions for their free tier. However, the rep did mention something useful that I haven't seen discussed here: if you're within 3 business days of filing your original return, they can sometimes help you file a "superseding return" instead of an amendment, which replaces your original return completely and doesn't require the Deluxe upgrade. Obviously this won't help most people since we usually discover mistakes weeks or months later, but might be worth knowing for anyone catching errors quickly. For those considering the TaxAct route mentioned above - definitely worth a shot! I'm planning to explore that option myself before committing to any paid upgrades. The worst that happens is I spend an hour checking it out and then fall back to paying the $7.99 FreeTaxUSA fee if needed.
Wow, that's really useful information about the superseding return option! I had no idea that was even a possibility. Three business days is pretty tight, but good to know for anyone who catches mistakes right away. Your point about trying TaxAct first makes total sense too. I'm in the same situation and figure it's worth spending an hour to potentially save $7.99, especially since several people here have had success with their free amendment feature. Thanks for calling FreeTaxUSA to get the official word - that confirmation helps clarify things for everyone following this thread!
Another important thing about lottery timing - if you take the annuity option (payments over 30 years), you'll pay taxes on each payment as you receive it. This can sometimes be better than taking the lump sum because: 1) You might stay in lower tax brackets across multiple years 2) You protect yourself from spending it all at once 3) The total payout is actually significantly higher
Great question! I've been wondering about this too. One thing I'd add is that you should definitely consider making quarterly estimated tax payments once you claim, especially for large winnings. The IRS expects payment throughout the year, not just at filing time. If you win big and don't make estimated payments, you could face underpayment penalties even if you pay the full amount when you file your return. The standard withholding might not be enough to cover your actual tax liability, especially if the winnings push you into higher brackets. Also, don't forget about the "kiddie tax" if you're planning to gift any winnings to children - there are special rules that might apply. Definitely worth consulting a tax professional for the big wins!
This is really helpful advice about quarterly payments! I had no idea about the underpayment penalties - that could be a nasty surprise. Quick question: how do you even calculate what your quarterly payments should be when you don't know your exact tax liability yet? Is there a safe harbor rule or percentage you can use to avoid penalties while you're figuring out the final numbers?
Jamal Carter
This is such a valuable discussion! I'm dealing with this exact situation and appreciate everyone sharing their experiences. I have a portfolio of Treasury securities including some I-bonds, regular Treasury notes, and a few Treasury bills I bought at discount through my broker. What's been really helpful from reading through all these comments is understanding that the state tax exemption applies to ALL income from Treasury securities, not just the obvious interest payments. I was definitely confused about the market discount portion, and my tax software (TaxAct) seems to be including it on my state return incorrectly. One thing I'm curious about - do I-bonds follow the same rules? I know they have that inflation adjustment component, and I'm wondering if both the fixed rate and the inflation adjustment portions are exempt from state tax. Also, I've been deferring the tax on my I-bonds until redemption - when I eventually cash them in, should that entire amount (original purchase price plus all accrued interest) be excluded from my state return? It sounds like I need to do a comprehensive review of my state return to make sure I'm excluding everything I should be. The tip about adding up ALL Treasury income and ensuring the total exclusion matches is going to be really useful for my situation.
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Oliver Schulz
ā¢@Jamal Carter - Yes, I-bonds follow the same state tax exemption rules as other Treasury securities! Both the fixed rate portion and the inflation adjustment the (variable rate based on CPI are) exempt from state income tax since they re'both considered interest from a federal obligation. Regarding the tax deferral on I-bonds, you re'handling it correctly by waiting until redemption to report the income. When you do cash them in, the entire interest portion which (is the difference between what you paid and what you receive should) be excluded from your state return. The principal amount you originally paid isn t'taxable income anyway, so you d'only be concerned with excluding the interest/growth portion. Your approach of doing a comprehensive review is smart. For I-bonds specifically, when you redeem them, you ll'receive a 1099-INT showing the total interest earned over the life of the bond. That entire 1099-INT amount should be excluded from state taxation just like interest from any other Treasury security. One tip for I-bonds - keep good records of your purchase dates and amounts, because when you have multiple I-bonds purchased at different times, it can get confusing to track which ones you re'redeeming and how much interest each has accrued. But from a state tax perspective, it s'straightforward - all I-bond interest gets the same exemption as other Treasury interest.
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Ahooker-Equator
This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm a tax professional who often gets questions about Treasury securities and state taxation, and I wanted to add a few practical points based on what I've seen in practice. First, you're all absolutely correct that both coupon interest AND market discount from US Treasuries should be exempt from state income tax. The constitutional protection against state taxation of federal obligations is comprehensive and covers all forms of income derived from these securities. However, I want to emphasize something that several people touched on - the biggest challenge isn't usually determining what should be exempt, but rather figuring out HOW to properly report the exemption on your specific state's forms. Each state handles this differently, and tax software often misses the market discount portion. A few additional tips from my experience: 1. **Documentation is key** - Keep detailed records of all your Treasury purchases, especially those bought at discount. You may need this if your state ever questions the exemption. 2. **Don't forget about mutual funds** - If you own Treasury-focused mutual funds or ETFs, the Treasury interest they pass through to you should also be exempt from state tax, but this often gets overlooked. 3. **Estimated taxes** - If you have significant Treasury holdings, make sure you're not overpaying estimated state taxes throughout the year. Many people forget to account for the exemption when calculating their quarterly payments. The tools mentioned here (taxr.ai for analysis and Claimyr for reaching state tax departments) sound like excellent resources for anyone dealing with complex Treasury income situations. When in doubt, it's always worth getting confirmation from your state tax authority rather than potentially overpaying.
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Oliver Brown
ā¢Thank you for this professional perspective! Your point about Treasury-focused mutual funds is something I hadn't considered. I have some holdings in VGIT (Vanguard Intermediate-Term Treasury ETF) and receive K-1 distributions that I assume include Treasury interest, but I've been treating it like regular mutual fund income on my state return. Could you clarify how this typically works? Do the mutual fund companies usually break out the Treasury-sourced interest separately on their tax documents, or do I need to dig into the fund's annual reports to figure out what portion of my distributions should be exempt from state tax? Also, your point about estimated taxes is really valuable - I've definitely been overpaying my quarterly state estimated taxes because I was calculating based on all my investment income without accounting for the Treasury exemptions. That's probably costing me a significant cash flow disadvantage throughout the year. This whole discussion has made me realize I should probably review the last few years of returns to see if I've been overpaying state taxes on Treasury income. Is there a statute of limitations on how far back I can file amended returns to claim refunds for incorrectly paid state taxes on Treasury securities?
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