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One thing no one's mentioned - if you're getting paid regularly for these gigs, you should be making quarterly estimated tax payments to avoid this problem next year. The IRS expects you to pay taxes throughout the year, not just at filing time. If you only pay at tax time, you might even get hit with underpayment penalties.
How do you even figure out how much to pay for these quarterly payments? My gig schedule is super irregular - some months I might make $300, others nothing at all.
You have a couple of options for estimated payments. The simplest is to take your total expected 1099 income for the year, calculate roughly what you'll owe (about 30-35% to be safe), then divide by 4 and pay that amount each quarter. If your income is very irregular, you can use what's called the "annualized income installment method" which lets you make different payment amounts each quarter based on what you actually earned that quarter. It's a bit more work but prevents overpaying when your income fluctuates. There's a worksheet (2210-AI) that helps you calculate this.
Anyone know if you can deduct a portion of streaming service subscriptions (Spotify, Apple Music) if you use them to learn songs for paid gigs? I've got three 1099-NEC forms this year from different venues and I'm trying to find every legitimate deduction.
Yes, you absolutely can if they're used primarily for your music business. The key is to track what percentage is business vs. personal use. If you use Spotify 70% of the time to learn songs for paid gigs, you can deduct 70% of the subscription cost.
@AstroAce is right about the business percentage approach. I'd recommend keeping a simple log for a month or two to track your usage - like noting when you're using Spotify to learn songs for gigs vs. just personal listening. You can even deduct music notation apps, metronome apps, or other music-related subscriptions if they're helping you with your paid performances. Just make sure you can justify the business purpose if asked.
I recommend you make a copy of the check when you pay that $58k and keep proof of payment forever. The IRS systems don't always talk to each other, and I've seen cases where one department doesn't know what the other is doing. The lock-in letter may have been processed before they knew you were about to pay.
This is solid advice. I paid off a tax debt and then 6 months later got a letter saying I still owed. Thankfully I had kept the cancelled check and receipt. The IRS eventually fixed it but it would have been a nightmare without that proof.
Just went through this exact situation last month. The lock-in letter and your $58k tax bill are definitely connected - the IRS issued the lock-in because they see a pattern of underpayment and want to prevent it from continuing while you're resolving the existing debt. Here's what you need to know: paying off that $58k won't automatically remove the lock-in letter. These typically stay in effect for at least 12 months regardless of whether you've paid your back taxes. However, once you've paid the debt and can demonstrate compliance, you can appeal the lock-in or request a review. My advice - pay that $58k as planned (keep all documentation!), then immediately call the IRS number on the lock-in letter to discuss your situation. Explain that you've now paid the full debt and want to work with them on the withholding issue. Sometimes they're more willing to work with you once they see you've taken care of the outstanding balance. Also, double-check that your wife's employer received and processed the lock-in letter correctly. Some employers mess up the implementation, which can cause additional headaches down the road.
Don't forget part-year resident returns! Since you moved to Idaho, you're a part-year resident there, and you were a part-year resident of the last state you lived in. Part-year returns can be tricky but they're designed to make sure you're only taxed once on each dollar you earn.
Thanks for mentioning this. I didn't even think about the part-year resident situation. So even though I haven't earned income in Idaho yet, I still need to file there as a part-year resident?
If you haven't earned any income in Idaho and don't have any Idaho-source income (like rental property there), then you generally wouldn't need to file an Idaho part-year resident return just for moving there. You'd only need to file in Idaho once you start earning income there. However, you should check if your last state of residence requires a part-year resident return to properly close out your tax obligation there. This is especially important if you had state tax withheld from your final paycheck in that state, as you'll want to file to potentially get a refund of any overwithholding.
I went through a very similar situation a few years ago when I worked in multiple states! One thing that really helped me understand the double taxation issue was checking whether any of the states you worked in have reciprocity agreements with each other. For example, if you lived in Pennsylvania but worked in a neighboring state with a reciprocity agreement, you might only need to file in your home state. However, since you worked in Wisconsin, Nevada, and Pennsylvania, you'll likely need to check each combination. Also, keep all your W-2s handy and look at Box 17 (State income tax) on each one. If you see state taxes withheld, that state will expect you to file a return there. The key is that when you file multiple state returns, each state's tax software should ask about taxes paid to other states - that's where you claim the credit to avoid double taxation. Since Nevada has no state income tax, that's one less return to worry about! But definitely file in Wisconsin and Pennsylvania for the income earned there.
Has anyone actually been audited over mileage? I've been a 1099 contractor for 6 years and honestly just guesstimate my miles. Never had any issues.
I got audited specifically over mileage deductions 2 years ago. Had to pay back over $3700 plus penalties because I couldn't prove my miles. They absolutely do check this stuff. Don't learn the hard way like I did!
As someone who's been through the 1099 contractor maze myself (freelance graphic designer), I can confirm what others have said about the temporary work location rule being your friend here. The key distinction is that you don't have a "regular" workplace - you're bouncing between different client sites that are all temporary by nature. One thing I'd add that hasn't been mentioned yet: make sure you're also tracking any trips between job sites during the same day. If you go from your home to Site A, then to Site B, then back home, ALL of those miles are deductible business miles, not just the initial trip from home. Also, with 24,000 miles, you're looking at potentially $15,720 in deductions at the current rate (24,000 Ć $0.655). That's a huge amount to leave on the table! Definitely worth getting this sorted out properly. The documentation advice from @Ravi Sharma is spot on - I learned that lesson during a small audit a few years back. Better to over-document than under-document when it comes to the IRS.
Carmen Ortiz
Have you considered Short-Term Treasury Bills instead? They're yielding around 5.3-5.4% right now, and they have a tax advantage over HYSAs because they're exempt from state and local taxes. If you're in a high-tax state, this could give you a better after-tax return than a HYSA.
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Andre Rousseau
ā¢How do you actually buy treasury bills? Is it complicated? I've been keeping my house fund in a Marcus HYSA but would switch if there's a tax advantage.
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Alice Pierce
ā¢You can buy Treasury bills directly from the government through TreasuryDirect.gov - it's actually pretty straightforward once you set up an account. You can also buy them through most major brokerages like Fidelity, Schwab, or Vanguard if you already have accounts there. The main thing to know is that T-bills are sold at a discount and mature at face value - so if you buy a $1,000 T-bill at $950, you get the full $1,000 when it matures. The process is much simpler than I expected, and you can ladder them to have bills maturing regularly to maintain liquidity for your house purchase timeline. Given that you're looking at a 12-18 month timeline, you could set up a ladder of 4-week, 8-week, and 13-week bills to keep your money accessible while getting that state tax exemption benefit.
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Mikayla Brown
I'd echo what others have said about Treasury bills being worth considering. The state tax exemption can be a real advantage depending on where you live. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is considering a CD ladder as another option. Some banks are offering competitive rates on CDs (around 4.5-5.2%) with terms that could align with your 12-18 month timeline. While they don't have the state tax advantage of T-bills, they might offer slightly better liquidity planning since you can time the maturities exactly when you expect to need the funds. You could also look into money market accounts, which sometimes offer rates competitive with HYSAs but with check-writing privileges that might be useful during the home buying process when you need to move money quickly for earnest money deposits, inspections, etc. Given your substantial down payment amount ($325k), you might also want to consider spreading across multiple institutions to stay within FDIC limits if you go the HYSA route. Most banks have $250k FDIC coverage per depositor, so you'd want to split your funds to ensure full protection.
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Keisha Williams
ā¢Great point about FDIC limits! I hadn't thought about that aspect with such a large amount. Quick question - if I go with Treasury bills through TreasuryDirect, are there any limits on how much I can purchase? And do they have the same government backing as FDIC insurance, or is it considered even safer since it's direct government debt? Also, for the CD ladder approach you mentioned, have you found that banks are willing to negotiate rates on larger deposits like this? I'm wondering if having $325k to deploy gives me any leverage in getting better rates than what's advertised.
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