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So I've run into a roadblock with TikTok's Creator Fund program and could really use some advice. My younger brother hit 10K followers on his TikTok account (congrats to him!), and when he tried applying for the Creator Fund, everything was going smoothly until it asked for a US TIN (Tax Identification Number). The problem is he's only 17, so he doesn't have his own TIN to provide. I've heard some people mention setting up an LLC in Montana as a workaround, but I'm not sure if that's actually legitimate or if there are better solutions. Has anyone gone through this TikTok US TIN verification process successfully, especially for someone who's under 18? Any guidance on how to properly handle this TikTok US TIN requirement would be super appreciated. I want to make sure whatever he does is actually legal and won't cause problems down the road.
I'm finally getting around to selling this piece of undeveloped land I inherited from my grandfather back in 2005. It's about 3 acres of wooded land that he bought in the 70s for what I'm told was around $12,000. I've never done anything with it except pay the property taxes, but now my wife and I are looking to sell it to help fund our kid's college (prices have gone up a LOT in that area). The realtor thinks we can get around $175,000 for it in today's market. I'm just not sure how the capital gains will be calculated since I didn't actually purchase the property. Would the "cost basis" be what my grandfather paid originally, or the value of the land when I inherited it? And how would I even figure out what it was worth 20 years ago? Any advice would be super appreciated!
Has anyone used an online service like Zillow or local property tax records to figure out the historical value? I inherited a house from my grandmother in 2012 and the lawyer handling the estate didn't get an appraisal at the time. Now I'm selling and have no idea how to document what it was worth back then.
I used my county's property records website which had assessment values going back 15 years. While assessments are usually lower than market value, my accountant said we could use that as a starting point and apply a standard multiplier (in our case 1.2x) to estimate market value. Also found some comparables from old real estate listings that had sold around the same time/area.
Thx for the tip! Just checked my county records and they do have the assessments from 2012. Gonna try to find that multiplier for my area. Maybe I can also check with some long-time realtors who might remember what the market was doing back then. This is all so much more complicated than I expected!
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is that you might want to consider the timing of your sale carefully. If this puts you into a higher income bracket for the year, you could end up paying the 20% long-term capital gains rate instead of 15%. Also, since you mentioned this is for your kid's college, look into whether your state offers any tax advantages for education expenses that might offset some of the capital gains. Some states allow you to contribute to 529 plans and get state tax deductions, which could help reduce your overall tax burden. Make sure you keep detailed records of all the property taxes you've paid over the 20 years too - while these don't add to your basis, they can sometimes be deducted in the year of sale depending on how the closing is structured.
I run a small property management business with my wife where we oversee several rental buildings. I have a pickup truck that's exclusively for business (100%), but my wife's SUV has a mixed-use situation that changes year to year (always 50%+ business though). I'm struggling to understand the math when a vehicle has varying business use percentages over its lifetime. Here's my specific situation: In 2014, we bought a pre-owned SUV for $32K that we traded in during 2018 for $15K. During those years, business use varied between 60-70% annually. If I remember right, we had depreciated this SUV well beyond the $15K trade-in value. Then in 2018, we purchased another pre-owned SUV for $41K using that trade-in. What confused me was that when doing taxes, the cost basis of this second SUV seemed to be around $49K. It appeared like the "over-depreciation" from the first SUV somehow rolled into the second vehicle's basis. Is this the correct understanding? If this is right, I'm puzzled about the logic. We initially purchased a vehicle, took depreciation deductions exceeding actual depreciation, then when selling, that excess depreciation wasn't recaptured but instead got added to the replacement vehicle's cost basis. Since this inflates the second SUV's basis beyond its actual value ($49K vs $41K paid), that $8K difference will eventually disappear through depreciation over the next 5+ years or faster if we replace it with another heavy truck. There seems no chance to recapture this since it's not part of SUV #2's real value. Two additional questions: 1) How do the varying business use percentages factor in? In the final year of SUV #2, I traded it early in the year when we happened to have 95% business use (was managing a distant rental property). The depreciation that year seemed enormous, like it was "catching up" to what would have occurred with 95% business use throughout. My concern is potential tax implications if I retire when my next vehicle is ready for trade-in. 2) Is there a financial disadvantage if I don't replace this SUV with another 6000+ GVWR vehicle? I'm less concerned about accelerating depreciation into earlier tax years and more focused on maximizing total deductions. Time value of money aside, I'd be equally satisfied claiming $10K annually for 5 years versus $50K in year one.
Has anyone here actually upgraded from a normal SUV to one over 6,000 lbs GVWR specifically for the tax advantages? I'm considering trading my Ford Edge (business use about 70%) for a Ford Expedition or similar just to take advantage of the Section 179 expensing and bonus depreciation. Is it worth the extra gas and higher purchase price just for the tax benefits? My CPA says absolutely yes but I'm not convinced.
I did exactly this last year - traded my Highlander for a Chevy Tahoe. The difference in Section 179 treatment was substantial. I was able to deduct almost the entire purchase price in year 1 (subject to business use percentage of course). Just be aware that you must maintain at least 50% business use for the entire recovery period, or you'll face recapture. With gas prices what they are now, I'm not sure I'd make the same decision again, but the tax savings were significant up front.
I've been through this exact situation with my construction business vehicles. The key thing to understand is that the IRS requires you to maintain consistent records of your business use percentage throughout the vehicle's life, not just calculate it once at purchase. For your varying business use percentages (60-70% annually), you need to track this each year because it affects both your annual depreciation deduction and the final disposition calculation. When you traded in that first SUV, if your business use in the final year was different from previous years, the IRS requires you to "true up" the depreciation based on the actual business use over the vehicle's entire life in your hands. The inflated basis on your second SUV ($49K vs $41K) is correct - that's the deferred depreciation recapture from your first vehicle rolled into the new basis under the pre-2018 like-kind exchange rules. You're not losing anything, just spreading the tax impact over a longer period. One crucial point: since you mentioned retiring, be very careful about suddenly dropping business use to zero on a vehicle with remaining basis. The IRS may require you to recapture excess depreciation taken in prior years. Consider gradually reducing business use as you approach retirement rather than an abrupt change. For your GVWR question - the total lifetime deduction is generally the same whether you buy a heavy vehicle or not. The advantage is timing: you can accelerate deductions into earlier tax years when you might be in higher tax brackets, versus spreading them out over the vehicle's depreciation life.
So here's my situation - I just returned an electronic accessory to BigTech Store that cost $129.99, but with sales tax the total came to around $140. When I processed the return, the customer service rep told me they would only refund the $129.99 and not the sales tax portion. This seemed really sketchy to me. I've never had a store keep the tax amount on returns before. I always thought when you return something, you get back exactly what you paid including taxes. Is this even legal for them to keep the tax portion? They're essentially pocketing money that was supposed to go to the government, right? Has anyone else experienced this or know what the actual laws are regarding sales tax refunds on returned items? I'm wondering if I should push back or if this is somehow a normal practice that I've just never encountered before.
Has anyone else noticed that this seems to be happening more often lately? I returned something to HomeGoods last week and they tried to keep the tax too. When I questioned it, they suddenly "found a way" to refund the full amount. I think some retailers are trying this as a sneaky profit tactic hoping people don't notice or complain.
I work in retail (not naming the store) and can confirm some places are starting to do this intentionally. Our system was recently updated to default to "tax retained" on returns unless the manager overrides it. Most customers don't notice the small difference, especially on cheaper items. Probably doesn't help my job security to admit this but it feels dishonest.
This is really concerning if retailers are systematically doing this. I work in tax compliance and can tell you that what BigTech Store told you is absolutely incorrect. Sales tax refunds on returned merchandise are governed by state law, not store policy. When you return an item, the original transaction is essentially being reversed. The store collected that tax as an agent of the state - they don't get to keep it when the underlying sale is canceled. Most states have specific provisions requiring retailers to refund sales tax on returned items, and failure to do so can result in penalties for the retailer. I'd recommend going back with your receipt and asking to speak with a manager. If they refuse, you can file a complaint with your state's department of revenue. They take sales tax compliance seriously and will investigate retailers who aren't following proper refund procedures. The fact that some commenters are seeing this happen more frequently suggests this might be a deliberate policy at some chains, which is even more problematic from a regulatory standpoint.
My dad passed away recently and I want to donate his special tilt wheelchair to a local non-profit organization. The organization is happy to accept it and will give me a receipt, but they've told me they can't provide any kind of appraisal for tax purposes. We originally paid around $5300 for the wheelchair brand new about 3 years ago. It's still working great - barely any wear and tear since my dad didn't use it that often. My problem is I have no idea how to figure out what it's worth now as a charitable donation deduction. I've been checking Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace for similar wheelchairs, but the prices are all over the place. Some people want $2600, others are asking $650. I can't find any dealers who sell these specialized chairs used to get a benchmark price. I'm really stuck on how to determine the fair market value for my tax deduction. Is there some kind of standard depreciation rate I could apply? Like maybe medical equipment depreciates 10% annually or something? Any guidance on the right way to handle this for tax purposes would be super helpful.
Don't forget about condition when determining FMV! The IRS expects the value to reflect the actual condition of your item. New in box > excellent > good > fair > poor. Since your dad's wheelchair is in "great working condition" as you mentioned, you'd probably be in the "excellent" or "good" category which would justify using a more favorable depreciation rate. Take detailed photos showing the condition in case you're ever questioned. Also remember the IRS threshold for requiring Form 8283 is only $500 total for all non-cash donations for the year. And if your donation exceeds $250, make sure the charity's receipt includes the proper language stating no goods or services were provided in exchange.
As someone who works in healthcare administration, I wanted to add that specialized wheelchairs like tilt chairs often have better resale value than standard wheelchairs due to their specific features. The tilt mechanism and specialized seating systems are expensive components that retain value well if they're still functioning properly. Since you mentioned it's barely used, I'd lean toward the higher end of the depreciation calculations others have provided. You might also want to check with local durable medical equipment (DME) suppliers - they sometimes buy or consign used specialized equipment and could give you insight into current market values, even if they can't provide a formal appraisal. Also, don't overlook checking completed sales on eBay rather than just current listings. The "sold" listings will show what similar chairs actually sold for recently, which is better data than asking prices on Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace.
NeonNebula
Has anyone successfully used their ITIN instead of an SSN for the TikTok verification? I'm not a US citizen but live here on a visa, and I'm stuck on the verification page.
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Isabella Costa
Yes! I used my ITIN for TikTok verification and it worked perfectly. Just make sure you format it exactly like an SSN (XXX-XX-XXXX) with the dashes in the right places. Also double-check that the name you enter matches EXACTLY what's on your ITIN documentation.
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Elijah Knight
As someone who works in tax preparation, I want to emphasize that using your SSN for TikTok's Creator Fund verification is completely legitimate for minors. The key thing to understand is that a TIN (Tax Identification Number) is just the umbrella term that includes SSNs, ITINs, and EINs. For your 17-year-old brother, he should use his SSN as his TIN. When he starts earning from the Creator Fund, he'll need to track that income and report it on his tax return if it exceeds the filing threshold. Even if it doesn't, it's good practice to file anyway since TikTok will likely send him a 1099 form. One important consideration: if he expects to earn over $400 from TikTok this year, he'll owe self-employment tax on that income, which means he should consider making quarterly estimated tax payments to avoid penalties. This is something many young creators don't realize until tax time. The Montana LLC idea is definitely unnecessary and creates more complexity than it solves. Keep it simple and legitimate with his SSN!
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