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I tried the W4 adjustment thing last year and it sorta backfired. My company has a "blackout period" for W4 changes right before bonus payouts specifically because so many people were doing this. Check your company's payroll policies before assuming you can make last-minute changes!
This is such a timely discussion! I'm a tax preparer and see the aftermath of this strategy every filing season. While it's not illegal, there are some critical points to consider: First, the timing issue others mentioned is real - many companies now have blackout periods specifically because of this practice. You need to check your company's policy immediately. Second, bonuses are typically subject to the 22% flat supplemental withholding rate, but this might actually be LOWER than your regular withholding rate if you're in a higher tax bracket. In that case, adjusting your W4 could backfire. Third, the "safe harbor" rules are crucial. You need to pay either 90% of current year's tax or 100% of last year's tax (110% if your AGI was over $150k). If you're already meeting this through regular withholding, temporary W4 changes are less risky. My advice: Use the IRS withholding calculator first to see if you're already on track to meet safe harbor. If you are, and your company allows W4 changes, you could potentially adjust temporarily. But set multiple reminders to change it back - I've seen too many people get hit with huge tax bills because they forgot. The key is being strategic rather than "going crazy" with exemptions. Small adjustments based on your actual tax situation are much safer than dramatic changes.
This is really helpful perspective from a tax professional! I'm curious about one thing you mentioned - how do I actually know if I'm already meeting the safe harbor requirements? Is there a simple way to calculate this without having to dig through all my pay stubs and tax documents from last year? Also, when you say "small adjustments" versus "going crazy" with exemptions, what would be an example of a reasonable adjustment for someone in my situation (married, 2 kids, mortgage)? I don't want to be too conservative and miss out on the benefit, but I also don't want to create a tax nightmare for myself next April.
Anyone know how this affects my 401k? I'm in a similar situation where I got laid off and have a 401k with the old employer. Will taking distributions from that generate imputed income W-2s too?
Taking distributions from your 401k wouldn't generate imputed income or a W-2. If you take money out of your 401k, you'd receive a Form 1099-R, not a W-2. The W-2 with imputed income is specifically for non-cash benefits you received from your employer after termination (like life insurance, health benefits, or vested stock as mentioned above). The 401k is your money - when you withdraw from it, it's not considered income from your employer, it's considered a distribution from your retirement account.
Based on your description of receiving severance in 2023 and having a $2,800 W-2, this is most likely related to those restricted stock units (RSUs) that Victoria mentioned. Many companies have "accelerated vesting" or "continued vesting" provisions in their equity agreements for layoffs, where your unvested stock continues to vest for a period after termination. The key thing to understand is that when RSUs vest, the IRS treats the fair market value of those shares as regular W-2 income, even though you didn't receive cash. Your former employer is required to report this and withhold taxes just like regular salary. Check if there's any federal or state tax withholding shown on this W-2 - if so, you'll get credit for those withholdings when you file your return. Since you strategically timed your severance for tax purposes, you'll want to factor this additional $2,800 of income into your 2023 tax planning. It's treated exactly like regular wages for tax purposes, so it will be subject to your marginal tax rate. The good news is this is likely a one-time occurrence unless you have more equity that continues vesting in 2024.
This explanation makes perfect sense! I was so focused on the severance timing that I completely forgot about the RSU vesting schedule continuing after the layoff. Looking at the W-2 more carefully, I can see there was federal tax withholding of about $620, so at least they took care of some of the tax burden upfront. One follow-up question - do I need to do anything special when I file my taxes since this is stock-related income, or do I just enter it like a regular W-2? I'm using TurboTax and want to make sure I don't miss anything important.
Has anyone considered the gift tax implications here? If you're paying your kids above-market interest rates, the excess interest could potentially be considered a gift from you to them. My accountant flagged this for me in a similar situation.
That's a really good point! My tax guy told me to make sure I was charging my kid at least the applicable federal rate (AFR) to avoid potential gift tax issues going in the other direction. I think the current AFR rates are on the IRS website somewhere.
This is a great discussion! One thing I'd add is to make sure you're documenting everything properly from the start. I learned this the hard way when my daughter borrowed money from me (opposite situation, but same principle). Keep records of: - The original source of funds in those joint accounts (was it allowance money, gift money from grandparents, etc.?) - A written loan agreement with clear terms, even if informal - Payment records showing principal vs. interest breakdown - Bank statements showing the transfers The IRS really cares about substance over form here. If your kids truly owned that money originally and you're paying them legitimate interest, then yes, it's taxable income to them. But if you were just moving your own money around between accounts, that's different. The key is being able to prove the economic reality of who owned what. Also worth noting - if your kids are minors and this pushes their income over the filing thresholds mentioned earlier, you might want to consider whether the tax complications are worth it compared to just keeping it as a family arrangement without formal interest payments.
This is really helpful advice about documentation! I'm just starting to set up a similar arrangement with my teenage son who has been saving money from his part-time job. Based on what everyone's saying here, it sounds like I should create a proper loan agreement upfront rather than just doing informal transfers. One question though - when you mention "substance over form," does that mean the IRS might still question this even with good documentation? Like if they think the interest rate is too generous or the arrangement seems artificial? I want to make sure I'm not creating more tax complications than necessary for what's essentially teaching my kid about lending and interest.
Great question! I was in a similar situation a few years ago. Here's how I think about it: If you're already at 15% for your 401k and getting your full employer match, the decision really comes down to your personal financial goals and cash flow needs. **Go with higher 401k contributions if:** - You're behind on retirement savings for your age - You have stable income and don't need the extra cash flow - You're close to a tax bracket threshold (as mentioned above) - You want to maximize long-term wealth building **Go with higher withholding if:** - You're on track for retirement but just want to avoid owing taxes - You might need more flexibility with your money during the year - You have other financial priorities (emergency fund, debt payoff, etc.) - You prefer having more control over your cash flow One middle-ground approach: increase your 401k by just 2-3% and adjust your withholding slightly. This way you get some additional tax reduction benefits from the 401k while not tying up too much extra cash. The most important thing is that you're being proactive about this instead of getting surprised again next April!
This is really helpful advice! I like the middle-ground approach you suggested. As someone new to thinking about this stuff, I'm wondering - is there a rule of thumb for how much you should be contributing to retirement by different ages? Like, you mentioned being "behind on retirement savings for your age" - how would someone know if they're behind or on track? I'm in my late 20s and just started really focusing on my finances, so I'm trying to figure out if 15% is actually good or if I should be doing more regardless of the tax situation.
Great question! There are some general guidelines that can help you figure out if you're on track. A common rule of thumb is to have 1x your annual salary saved by age 30, 3x by 40, 6x by 50, and 8x by 60. But these are just rough targets. At 15% contribution rate in your late 20s, you're actually doing really well! Most financial advisors recommend saving 10-15% of your income for retirement, and you're already at the higher end of that range. The fact that you're starting to focus on this in your late 20s puts you ahead of many people. If you're getting an employer match, make sure you're at least contributing enough to get the full match - that's free money. Beyond that, 15% is solid. You could consider increasing it gradually over time as your income grows (like bumping it up 1% each year), but you're definitely not "behind" at your current rate. The key is consistency and starting early, which you're already doing. Don't feel pressure to max out everything immediately - building good habits and maintaining a sustainable contribution rate is more important than trying to do too much too fast.
Another factor to consider is your current tax situation versus your expected tax situation in retirement. If you think you'll be in a lower tax bracket when you retire (which is common), then maximizing traditional 401k contributions now makes a lot of sense - you're getting a tax deduction at your current higher rate and will pay taxes later at a lower rate. However, if you expect to be in the same or higher tax bracket in retirement, or if tax rates in general go up by then, the immediate tax savings from higher 401k contributions might not be as beneficial long-term. Given that you're already at 15% which is really solid, and you owed taxes this year, I'd lean toward a hybrid approach: bump your 401k up to maybe 17-18% and also increase your withholding slightly. This gives you some additional tax reduction benefits while also ensuring you don't owe next year. The IRS penalty for underpaying can be pretty steep if you owe more than $1,000, so making sure you're covered on the withholding front is important regardless of what you do with your 401k.
This is a really good point about thinking ahead to retirement tax brackets. I'm just starting to learn about all this tax planning stuff, and I hadn't really considered what my tax situation might look like decades from now. How do you even estimate what tax bracket you'll be in during retirement? It seems like there are so many variables - will I have the same income needs, will tax rates change, will Social Security still be around, etc. Is there a simple way to think about this, or do you just have to make your best guess? Also, you mentioned the IRS penalty for underpaying - is that something that kicks in automatically if you owe more than $1,000, or are there other factors that determine whether you get penalized?
Maya Jackson
Another option to consider is filing separately from your spouse. If your spouse has significant income but few deductions, while you have business losses or lots of deductions, filing separately might help. But be careful! Filing separately has drawbacks like losing certain tax credits.
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Tristan Carpenter
ā¢This is actually not great advice for most people. Filing separately usually results in a higher total tax bill. The standard deduction gets cut in half, and you lose access to several valuable credits. Plus with self-employment, filing separately rarely helps since business expenses are deducted before you even get to the filing status decision.
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Emma Davis
As someone who went through this exact same confusion when I first became self-employed, I can tell you it gets much clearer once you understand the flow. Here's the simple breakdown: 1. First, calculate your business profit on Schedule C: $135,000 revenue - $120,000 business expenses = $15,000 net business income 2. Then, on your main tax return (1040), you'll have that $15,000 as self-employment income plus any other income you and your wife have 3. Finally, you choose standard deduction ($27,700) vs itemized deductions. Since $15,000 - $27,700 = $0 taxable income, standard deduction wins unless you have huge personal deductions One important thing others mentioned: you'll still owe self-employment tax on that $15,000 (about $2,120), but your income tax would be $0. Don't overthink it - business expenses and personal deductions are completely separate things in the tax system. Your business expenses always get deducted first on Schedule C, then you decide standard vs itemized for personal stuff.
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Sean Doyle
ā¢This is such a helpful breakdown! I'm also new to self-employment taxes and was getting overwhelmed by all the different forms and schedules. Your step-by-step explanation makes it so much clearer - I didn't realize business expenses and personal deductions were handled at completely different stages of the process. Quick question though - when you mention the self-employment tax of about $2,120 on the $15,000, is that something that gets calculated automatically when you file, or do you need to do that calculation separately? I'm using tax software but want to make sure I'm not missing anything.
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