


Ask the community...
One thing I noticed is missing from your calculation - check if your client qualifies for any 1031 exchange. If they're planning to buy another investment property, they might be able to defer a big chunk of that tax bill. The rules are pretty strict though - they would need to identify potential replacement properties within 45 days of the sale and complete the purchase within 180 days.
Thanks for bringing that up! Unfortunately, she already closed on the sale in April without setting up a 1031 exchange, and she's planning to retire with the proceeds rather than buying another investment property. I definitely should have mentioned that in my original post. I'm more concerned with making sure I've got the tax calculation right so she knows exactly what she'll owe. I realized I should also check if she's eligible for any state-specific tax breaks since this is a pretty significant capital gain and she's in her 70s.
Has anyone dealt with a situation where the seller took bonus depreciation on capital improvements during the COVID years? I have a client who did this for a major HVAC system in 2020 and I'm not sure how that factors into the recapture calculations.
Yes, that's an important consideration. The bonus depreciation taken would still be subject to recapture, but at ordinary income tax rates (not just the 25% rate that applies to straight-line depreciation). Make sure you separate out the portion that was taken as bonus depreciation from the regular depreciation when calculating the tax. Also remember that for improvements made in 2020, they would have been eligible for 100% bonus depreciation, so likely the entire cost was written off in that year. You'll need to recapture all of that at ordinary income rates.
I've been a payroll specialist for 10+ years, and I see this issue all the time with dual-income households. Here's what's happening: when both you and your wife claim "0" (which isn't even a thing on the new W4), your employers are each withholding as if your specific job is your household's only income. The withholding tables are progressive, so they withhold at lower rates for the first chunks of income. The problem? When you combine two incomes, more of that money falls into higher tax brackets than either employer accounts for. So neither job withholds enough for your actual combined tax situation. Solution: One or both of you should fill out the new W4 and either: 1. Check the box in Step 2(c) for "multiple jobs" which approximately increases withholding 2. Complete the worksheet and enter the more precise extra withholding amount in Step 4(c) 3. Or just put an additional dollar amount to withhold from each paycheck
This makes so much sense! So basically each of our employers is calculating withholding like we're in a lower tax bracket because they only see their portion of our income? Now I understand why we keep owing despite claiming "0" on the old forms. If we both make roughly the same amount (I make about $115k and she makes about $108k), should we both check that box in Step 2(c) or just one of us? And do we still select "Married filing jointly" at the top?
Yes, you've got it exactly right! Each employer only "sees" their portion of your income, so they withhold at lower rates than what applies to your combined income. When your incomes are that close (both around $110k), you should only have one of you check the box in Step 2(c). If you both did it, you'd over-withhold by quite a bit. And yes, you should both still select "Married filing jointly" at the top of the form. The spouse with slightly higher income (you in this case) should be the one to check the box, while your wife's W4 should just have the filing status and nothing checked in Step 2.
Has anyone tried just doing an extra flat amount of withholding? My husband and I had the same problem (both claimed 0, still owed $3k+ every year). I just calculated how much we owed, divided by 26 pay periods, and added an extra $125 withholding per paycheck in line 4(c). Way simpler than trying to figure out all these worksheets and multiple jobs calculations.
This is actually pretty smart. No complex calculations, just fixing the shortfall directly. I might try this approach since my eyes glaze over with all the W4 worksheet stuff.
I switched from a CPA ($550/year) to doing my own taxes with software 4 years ago and haven't looked back. My situation is similar to yours - W-2 income, investments, and a rental property. The first year took me about 5 hours because I was learning, but now I can finish in about 2 hours. The software walks you through everything, and there are tons of forums online where you can ask questions about specific situations. The big advantage is that I actually understand my tax situation better now. My CPA never explained why he was making certain choices, but now I know exactly where my money is going and how different decisions affect my tax liability. I did have my old CPA review my self-prepared return the first year (paid him for an hour of time), and he only found a minor issue that wouldn't have triggered an audit anyway.
Did you find any good resources for learning about rental property tax treatment? That's my biggest concern with switching from my CPA.
The IRS Publication 527 (Residential Rental Property) is actually pretty readable and covers the basics well. I also found the BiggerPockets forums invaluable for specific rental tax questions - there are both CPAs and experienced landlords who can help with real-world situations. For me, the key was learning about depreciation (which is usually the trickiest part) and keeping meticulous records of expenses. I created a simple spreadsheet where I track every expense by category, which makes tax time much easier. Most tax software has decent guidance on rental properties, but I found that learning the basic concepts first made the whole process less intimidating.
Honestly, if you have a rental property AND a side business, I would NOT recommend doing your own taxes. I tried to save money last year and did my own with TurboTax. Ended up missing some key deductions and had to file an amended return that my friend (who's a CPA) caught. Cost me more in the long run. Maybe try negotiating with your current CPA? Or find a less expensive one? But with rental depreciation and business expenses, there's just too many places to mess up if you don't know what you're doing.
One thing no one has mentioned yet is that the bonus depreciation rules are changing. The 100% bonus depreciation is phasing out: - 80% for property placed in service in 2023 - 60% for property placed in service in 2024 - 40% for property placed in service in 2025 - 20% for property placed in service in 2026 - 0% after 2026 So if you're thinking of using this strategy, sooner is better than later. You'll get more bang for your buck while the bonus depreciation percentages are higher.
That's really helpful info. Does "placed in service" mean when we buy the property, or is there something specific we need to do to consider it "placed in service" for tax purposes?
Placed in" service generally means when the property is ready and available for its intended use - so for a rental property, it would typically be when'it s ready to be rented out to tenants. If you purchase a property'that s already tenant-ready, the placed-in-service date would likely be the purchase date. However, if you buy a property that needs substantial renovations before it can be rented, the placed-in-service date would be when those renovations are complete and the property is ready for rental. This is an important distinction because it determines which'year s bonus depreciation percentageapplies.
Make sure you're tracking your basis properly! I'm a software dev who did this exact strategy with my wife (real estate professional) and got hit with a massive tax bill years later when we sold one of our properties. The depreciation lowers your basis in the property, which means higher capital gains when you sell. For example, if you buy a property for $500k, take $250k in depreciation deductions, your adjusted basis becomes $250k. If you later sell for $600k, your taxable gain is $350k ($600k - $250k), not just $100k ($600k - $500k). AND that $250k in depreciation gets "recaptured" and taxed at 25% instead of the lower capital gains rates. It's still usually worth it, but be aware of the long-term implications.
Giovanni Colombo
If you still have the TurboTax, I might be interested. My situation is pretty basic - W2 job plus a small side business selling crafts online. Do you think the Home & Business version would be overkill for me? I used the Deluxe version last year but my online sales have increased.
0 coins
Yuki Kobayashi
ā¢I think the Home & Business would actually be perfect for your situation with the online craft sales. It's specifically designed for people with a small business or self-employment income. The Deluxe version doesn't include all the business expense categories and Schedule C support that you probably need. Let me figure out how to get this to you without violating any terms of service. Might need to check what the other commenter mentioned about transfers not being allowed.
0 coins
Giovanni Colombo
ā¢Thanks for the info! That makes sense about the Schedule C support. I didn't realize how many business deductions I might be missing with just the Deluxe version. Please let me know what you find out about transferring it.
0 coins
Fatima Al-Qasimi
Has anyone tried FreeTaxUSA? It's way cheaper than TurboTax and handles all the same forms. I switched last year and it was honestly better than TurboTax for my needs (W2 plus rental property). The interface isn't as pretty but it gets the job done for like 1/5 of the price.
0 coins
StarStrider
ā¢I second this! Been using FreeTaxUSA for 3 years now. It handles my freelance work and investment accounts perfectly. Federal filing is free and state is only like $15. No idea why people still pay $100+ for TurboTax.
0 coins