
IRS
CommunityGovernment Services


Ask the community...
Title: Can I Settle My IRS Tax Debt for Less Than What I Owe? Is an Offer in Compromise Realistic? 1 I'm drowning in IRS debt and honestly starting to panic. I've heard some people talk about settling their tax debt for like way less than they actually owed. Part of me thinks this sounds too good to be true, but I'm desperate enough to ask. Is this actually a real thing or just something people make up? Like can normal people actually negotiate with the IRS to pay less than they owe? How does this whole IRS debt settlement process even work? Are there specific programs for this? What kind of eligibility requirements do they look at? My financial situation is pretty rough right now - lost my job in January and only found part-time work since then. My savings are basically gone. And if this is legit, how do you even start trying to negotiate with the IRS? Do you need an expensive tax attorney or can regular people do this themselves? I'm losing sleep over this $28,000 debt. Any advice would seriously help me right now.
I'm trying to figure out our business tax situation with our company vehicles and completely stuck on this depreciation issue. My husband leases a 2024 GMC Sierra 2500 HD through our company, and I'm noticing something weird in TaxAct (had to do it myself since our accountant disappeared right before filing season - thanks a lot). When I entered my small SUV lease info (also under company name), everything was straight forward. But when I got to my husband's Sierra 2500 HD, it's asking me to select a depreciation method. Is this happening because it's classified as a heavy duty vehicle? The truck weighs over 6,000 pounds if that makes any difference. It's a 3-year lease that we started in January. If anyone knows which depreciation method I should select for this type of heavy duty truck lease, I'd really appreciate the help! Also want to confirm we can still write off all the lease payments next year since it's leased under the company name. I'm totally overthinking this and staring at the screen for way too long... tax season is slowly killing me ๐ซ
I ran into this exact same issue with our company's Silverado 3500 lease last year. The key is to understand that you don't actually depreciate leased vehicles - you simply deduct the business percentage of the lease payments as ordinary business expenses. The reason TaxAct is asking about depreciation for the heavier truck is likely because the software is detecting it as a potential Section 179 vehicle based on weight, but isn't properly recognizing that leased vehicles don't qualify for Section 179 deduction or depreciation. For heavy vehicles used for business (over 6,000 lbs GVWR), you may have to calculate what's called an "inclusion amount" which slightly reduces your deduction - it's the IRS's way of adjusting for the benefit of leasing an expensive vehicle. But this is normally a very small amount compared to your lease payments.
Thank you so much for this explanation! So basically I should just bypass the depreciation question in TaxAct somehow? Would selecting "straight line" be the safest if I have to choose something, or should I go back and re-enter it differently to avoid that question entirely? The truck is 100% business use if that matters for the inclusion amount you mentioned.
If TaxAct won't let you proceed without selecting a depreciation method, I'd recommend going back and re-entering the vehicle information but categorize it as a leased vehicle expense rather than an asset to be depreciated. Most tax software has a specific section for business vehicle expenses where you can indicate it's leased rather than owned. If you absolutely have to choose a depreciation method as a workaround, straight-line would be the most conservative choice, but it's not technically correct since you don't depreciate leased assets. The 100% business use is great - it means you can deduct 100% of the lease payments (minus any inclusion amount). The inclusion amount is based on the fair market value of the vehicle and lease term - for a 3-year lease on a heavy vehicle, it's often minimal.
The GMC Sierra 2500 HD actually gets a special tax advantage because it's over 6,000 lbs GVWR. It qualifies as a "heavy SUV" for tax purposes even though it's a truck. But here's the confusing part everyone else missed - for LEASED vehicles, the rules are different than purchased. You don't take depreciation on leased vehicles! Instead, you deduct the lease payments as a business expense (assuming 100% business use). The reason TaxAct is asking about depreciation is because it's probably confused by the weight classification. I'd recommend skipping that screen or calling TaxAct support about how to properly enter a leased heavy vehicle without depreciation options. Btw - one thing to watch for: if the truck has a fair market value over a certain threshold (around $51,000), you may need to calculate an "inclusion amount" that reduces your deduction slightly.
Hey everyone, I'm a 42 year old single teacher starting at a new school district this fall. I'm the head of household with two kids - my son who's turning 15 in October and my daughter who's 21 and in college. My daughter works part-time and files her own taxes now. For the past few tax seasons, I've been disappointed with my returns. I used to get around $2500 back, but lately it's been barely anything. With this new teaching position, I need to fill out a new W4 form and want to make sure I'm doing it right. I want to have enough withheld throughout the year so I don't owe anything, but I'd also like to get something back when I file. I know my refund won't be as large as in the past since I can only claim my son as a dependent now. On Step 3 of the W4, should I put "1" for just my son, or should I put "2" to include myself as well? I'm confused about whether I count myself as a dependent on the W4 form. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Make sure you also consider the Head of Household filing status in Step 1(c) of your W4! This affects your standard deduction and tax brackets, which impacts your overall withholding throughout the year. With your 15-year-old son, you definitely qualify for Head of Household since he lives with you more than half the year and you provide more than half his support. This filing status gives you a higher standard deduction than filing as Single.
So would I put "Head of Household" on the W4 and then just "1" for my son on Step 3? Does the Head of Household selection automatically adjust things for me?
Yes, you would check "Head of Household" in Step 1(c) and then put "1" for your son in Step 3. The Head of Household selection automatically adjusts your withholding calculations to account for the higher standard deduction and more favorable tax brackets that come with that filing status. This combination (HOH status + claiming your qualifying child) should help ensure your withholding is more accurate. If you want a slightly larger refund, you can add a small additional amount in Step 4(c) - maybe $25-50 per paycheck depending on your comfort level.
Does anyone know if the child tax credit is still $2,000 per child for 2024? I heard it might have changed but I can't find clear information.
I'm doing some looking back at my 2022 taxes and now I'm worried I might have messed up. For 2022, my wife and I filed Married Filing Jointly with an AGI around $350,000. We have 4 kids, all under 17 at that time. I thought we should have qualified for the Child Tax Credit of $2,000 per child (so $8,000 total), but looking at our return, it seems like we got way less than that. When I look at our Form 8812, the numbers don't add up to what I was expecting. Did I complete something wrong? Were there income limits that reduced our CTC that year? Our preparer didn't really explain it well, and now I'm confused about whether I should file an amendment if I left money on the table. Am I missing something about how the Child Tax Credit worked for 2022?
Looking at my 2022 Form 8812, I notice there are two parts - one for the "regular" Child Tax Credit and another for the Credit for Other Dependents. Did you check both sections? Sometimes people miss that they might qualify for the $500 Credit for Other Dependents for family members who don't qualify for the full CTC. Also, did you account for any advance CTC payments you might have received in 2021? Those would have reduced your 2022 credit if you didn't pay them back.
I did check both parts, and all of our kids were qualifying children under 17, so we didn't have any "other dependents" to claim. And we didn't receive any advance payments in 2021 that would affect the 2022 return - we actually opted out of those. What's confusing me is that with 4 kids, we should have gotten the full $8,000 ($2,000 ร 4), but when I look at the actual credit amount on our Form 1040, it's significantly less. I'm wondering if maybe our tax software or preparer made a calculation error on Form 8812.
In that case, I would recommend looking specifically at the calculations on Form 8812, particularly around the refundable portion. For 2022, the refundable portion was limited to 15% of your earned income above $2,500. So if somehow your "earned income" was calculated incorrectly (which is different from AGI), that could limit the refundable portion. Another thing to check is if you had any other non-refundable credits that used up your tax liability, potentially limiting how much of the non-refundable portion of the CTC you could use.
Has anyone used TurboTax to amend a return for this specific issue? I think I might be in the same boat with my 2022 taxes and wondering if their amendment process is straightforward.
I used TurboTax to amend my 2022 return specifically for Form 8812 issues. It was pretty simple - they walk you through which forms need to be changed and calculate everything for you. Just make sure you have a copy of your original return handy because you'll need to enter some of the original information first before making changes.
I need some advice about applying for an ITIN using the Exception 3 pathway. My situation is a bit complicated - I have my SSN all set for this year's taxes, but my wife doesn't have any tax ID numbers yet. We're planning to file jointly, but some of our tax documents are still in transit, and we'd really like to get her ITIN application rolling before we have everything ready for the full tax return. I've been looking at Form W-7 (ITIN application) and noticed that normally you need to attach Form 1040, but there are some exceptions. Exception 3 caught my attention - it mentions something about being eligible if you "have a home mortgage loan on real property located in the United States." The thing is, only my name appears on the mortgage paperwork, not my wife's, even though we're planning to file married filing jointly. So here's what I'm wondering: Can we still use Exception 3 to file the W-7 for my wife without attaching our 1040? And how strictly does the IRS enforce these exception requirements? Would they reject her application because she's not personally on the mortgage? Any insights would be super helpful! We're trying to get ahead of the game for the 2025 filing season.
Just wanted to add another perspective here. I was in a similar situation last year, but I went through a Certified Acceptance Agent (CAA) for my spouse's ITIN application. It cost around $250, but they handled everything for us and knew exactly which exception applied and what documentation to submit. The advantage was they could verify the original identity documents themselves (passport, birth certificate, etc.) so we didn't have to send those original documents to the IRS. It was worth the fee for the peace of mind, especially since we were dealing with exception criteria. If you're stressed about getting all the documentation right for Exception 3, finding a local CAA might be worth considering. They deal with these applications daily and know all the little details the IRS is looking for.
I hadn't considered a Certified Acceptance Agent. Is there any downside to using one compared to submitting directly? Does it take longer to process when going through an agent?
There's really no downside in terms of processing time - in fact, it can be faster because CAAs reduce the likelihood of rejections due to documentation errors. The IRS processes the application the same way regardless of submission method. The only real downside is the cost. Most CAAs charge between $200-300 for their service, which includes document verification and submission. But considering the hassle of potentially having to resubmit if something goes wrong (plus the risk of sending original documents through the mail), many find it worthwhile. In my experience, using a CAA actually shaved weeks off the process because everything was submitted correctly the first time.
A quick data point from someone who just went through this process - don't forget that if you're applying for an ITIN using exception 3, the mortgage interest statement (Form 1098) from the previous tax year is REQUIRED documentation. I didn't include it with my first submission and it was rejected. Also, be aware that ITIN processing times are currently running about 8-10 weeks if everything is in order on your first submission. If you need to resubmit due to missing documentation, add another 7-9 weeks to that timeline. That's why getting it right the first time is so important.
From my understanding, you need the current year's Form 1098, not the previous year's. That's what my tax preparer told me. Maybe that's why it was rejected?
You actually need the most recently issued Form 1098, which would typically be from the previous tax year. When applying early in the year (like now for 2025 filing season), you'd use the 2024 mortgage interest statement since the 2025 one wouldn't be available yet. The IRS specifically wants to see that you have an ongoing mortgage interest situation that creates a tax need. If you're applying mid-year, you might also include recent mortgage statements showing continued interest payments. The key point is demonstrating a continued tax purpose for needing the ITIN, not just a one-time situation.
Diego Vargas
5 Something important that hasn't been mentioned yet - if you're considering an Offer in Compromise, be aware that there's a 5-year compliance requirement after acceptance. This means you have to file all required tax returns and pay all required taxes for 5 years after your offer is accepted. If you don't, the IRS can revoke the agreement and reinstate the original debt. Also, the OIC process will extend the collection statute of limitations, which is normally 10 years. Make sure you understand all the implications before proceeding.
0 coins
Diego Vargas
Author1 Does the 5-year compliance thing mean I can't have ANY issues with taxes for 5 years? What if I file on time but can't pay everything that year? Would they bring back all my old debt too??
0 coins
Diego Vargas
Author5 The compliance requirement means you need to file all required returns on time and pay any new tax obligations when they're due. If you can't pay a new tax bill in full, you need to work with the IRS immediately on a payment arrangement. If you violate the terms, then yes, the IRS can potentially revoke your OIC and reinstate the original tax debt, minus whatever payments you've made. They don't do this for minor issues, but it's a serious consideration - you're essentially promising to be a model taxpayer for those 5 years.
0 coins
Diego Vargas
12 Has anyone tried those "tax relief" companies that advertise on TV? They claim they can settle tax debt for pennies on the dollar, but I've heard mixed things.
0 coins
Diego Vargas
Author19 I used one of those companies and it was a complete waste of money. Paid them $4,000 up front and all they did was put me on an installment plan I could have set up myself for free on the IRS website. They promised they'd get me an OIC but after taking my money they said I "didn't qualify" - something they should have known from the beginning.
0 coins
Diego Vargas
Author12 Wow thanks for the warning! Sounds like these companies are just preying on desperate people. I'll steer clear and either try to handle it myself or find a reputable local tax professional instead.
0 coins