


Ask the community...
CashApp Taxes (formerly Credit Karma Tax) is completely free for federal AND state returns. I've used it for 3 years now with W-2s and 1099s without problems. The interface is clean and it handles self-employment income pretty well. TaxAct is another good option that's cheaper than TurboTax/H&R Block but still very comprehensive. Their interface for handling 1099 income is actually better than TurboTax in my opinion.
Does CashApp Taxes handle cryptocurrency transactions? I did a bit of trading last year along with my regular job and some freelance work, so I need something that can deal with all of that.
CashApp Taxes has basic support for cryptocurrency transactions, but it's somewhat limited. You'll need to enter your transactions manually or import a summary from your exchange. For more complex crypto situations with lots of trades, you might want a more specialized solution. For your combination of W-2, freelance, and crypto income, TaxAct might actually be the better choice. Their crypto reporting tools are more robust and they integrate with several popular crypto exchanges for easier importing. They've really improved their crypto support over the last couple years as it's become more common.
Don't sleep on OLT (OnLine Taxes)! It's $9.95 for both federal and state which is crazy cheap. I've used it for years with W-2s and 1099-MISC income. Interface looks like it's from 2005 but it gets the job done accurately.
Have you ever had your return audited using OLT? I'm always worried the cheap options might miss something or not be as thorough.
Something similar happened to me last year with a CP2000. What worked for me was writing a letter requesting "interest abatement" under IRC 6404(e). That's the specific tax code that allows the IRS to reduce interest in cases where there was unreasonable delay caused by an IRS officer or employee. I specifically pointed out the dates: when my original return was filed, when the income information would have been available to the IRS from third parties, and the date they finally sent the notice. I made the case that the delay was excessive and beyond normal processing time. They actually approved it and removed about 8 months of interest charges! Make sure to be super specific about the timeline in your letter and cite the specific law. It needs to go to the specific department listed on your CP2000, not just general IRS addresses.
This is super helpful, thank you! How long did it take them to respond to your abatement request? And did you have to provide any specific evidence beyond just pointing out the timeline?
It took about 6 weeks to get a response, which was actually faster than I expected. I didn't need special evidence beyond clearly outlining the timeline with specific dates. One tip - I made sure to include all the reference numbers from the CP2000 notice at the top of my letter and made it very clear I wasn't disputing the actual adjustment, just the interest. I think that helped it get processed faster since they knew I wasn't challenging the underlying tax assessment. I also kept it to one page and very factual - no emotional language about how unfair it was. Just dates, facts, and the specific tax code.
Has anyone tried calling the Taxpayer Advocate Service about this kind of issue? I had a similar problem with a different notice and they were actually pretty helpful. They're technically separate from the IRS and can sometimes intervene when there are hardships or unfair procedures.
I tried the Taxpayer Advocate last year for a similar issue but they told me they couldn't help because it wasn't an "economic hardship" situation. Seems like they're really only equipped to help if you're facing immediate financial difficulty, not just regular interest disputes. Worth a shot I guess but they're also super backed up these days.
Good point about the hardship requirement. I think my situation qualified because I was facing a lien at the time. For regular interest issues, probably better to go with the interest abatement request directly to the IRS like others mentioned. The Taxpayer Advocate is really more for when you're truly stuck in the system or facing serious consequences.
One important thing to note that hasn't been mentioned yet - the timing of your return of excess contribution matters a lot. If you withdraw excess contributions before your tax filing deadline (including extensions), you won't be taxed on the earnings from those contributions. But if you miss that deadline, you'll have to pay a 6% tax on the excess amount for each year it remains in your account. So even though your distribution wasn't coded properly, the fact that you took it within the same tax year is good!
Does the timing issue apply differently for Roth vs Traditional IRAs? I have a similar situation with both types of accounts and I'm confused about which deadlines apply to each.
The timing rules are actually the same for both Roth and Traditional IRAs. For both types, you need to withdraw excess contributions (and any earnings on those contributions) by your tax filing deadline including extensions (typically October 15th) to avoid the 6% excise tax penalty. The main difference is in how the earnings are treated. For Traditional IRAs, the earnings are generally taxable in the year you make the withdrawal. For Roth IRAs, the earnings are also taxable if you withdraw them, but they may additionally be subject to the 10% early withdrawal penalty if you're under 59½ and don't qualify for an exception.
Has anyone used Form 5329 for this type of situation? I'm wondering if I need to file that along with my tax return when dealing with the improperly coded distribution.
Quick question for anyone who's done this: if the entire $6000 was excess, does Vanguard just close your Roth IRA completely? Or do they just remove the money but keep the account open?
Word of warning from someone who procrastinated on fixing an excess contribution - the 6% penalty really adds up over multiple years. Don't wait to fix this! I ended up paying almost $1100 in penalties because I waited over 3 years to correct mine.
Isabella Santos
Don't forget you can choose between taking the standard mileage deduction (56 cents per mile in 2021) OR itemizing your actual car expenses (gas, maintenance, depreciation, etc.). For most people who only did rideshare briefly, the standard mileage rate is way easier and usually better. But you need to have kept track of your miles!
0 coins
Paolo Conti
ā¢Thanks for this! I didn't track my miles super carefully since I only drove for those couple days. Is there any way to reconstruct this after the fact or am I just out of luck?
0 coins
Isabella Santos
ā¢You can try to reconstruct your mileage based on records you might have. Lyft should have records of the actual rides and miles driven with passengers, but that doesn't include the miles driven between rides or positioning yourself. If you have a general idea of the areas you worked and approximately how much "dead" mileage you had between rides, you can make a reasonable estimate. Some tax pros recommend using a 1.2x to 1.3x multiplier on your actual ride miles to account for the between-ride miles, though this varies based on your market.
0 coins
StarStrider
Make sure you put aside enough for taxes on that Lyft income! Unlike your W-2 job, there's no withholding on 1099 income. You'll owe income tax plus self-employment tax (15.3%) on your profit. Even after deductions, you might be surprised by how much you owe if you're not prepared.
0 coins
Ravi Gupta
ā¢Is there a way to calculate approximately how much I should set aside? I just started doing Instacart as a side gig.
0 coins