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Something nobody has mentioned yet - you should check if your partner's plan is better than what your new job offers! Often workplace insurance plans vary DRAMATICALLY in quality, coverage, and cost. My husband's plan has a $500 deductible while mine was $3,000. We saved over $2,000 last year by putting me on his plan even though we had to pay extra for it. Even if you're allowed to stay on your partner's plan, it might not be the best financial choice depending on the details of both plans. Also consider that your job is temporary - if you take their insurance, what happens after 5 months? Would there be a gap before you could get back on your partner's plan? These practical considerations are just as important as the tax implications.
That's a really good point I hadn't considered! The job is offering a high-deductible plan ($2,750) while my partner's plan has a $1,000 deductible. And you're right about the gap - I'm not sure if there would be a waiting period to get back on his insurance after my job ends. Do you know if special enrollment periods apply when you lose job-based coverage?
Yes, losing job-based coverage does qualify as a special enrollment event that would allow you to join your partner's plan outside the normal enrollment period. You typically have 30 days from the loss of coverage to request enrollment in the new plan. As for the deductible difference, that's definitely something to consider carefully. Also look at the premium costs - what would your employer charge versus what your partner's paycheck deduction would be for adding you? Sometimes the premium difference can outweigh the deductible savings. And don't forget to compare the networks - make sure your doctors are covered in both plans before making a decision.
One thing to consider - if your temporary job is W-2 employment, you'll have taxes withheld automatically. But if it's 1099 contract work (which many temporary positions are), you'll need to set aside money for taxes yourself. At your income level jumping up suddenly, you might be surprised by how much you'll owe next year. Also, the $5,050 dependent limit for 2024 is for gross income. If your job is 1099, you can deduct legitimate business expenses which might keep your net income under the limit.
Don't cash that check yet! This happened to my brother last year. Turns out the IRS system had somehow duplicated his return and processed it twice - once correctly showing that he owed money, and once incorrectly showing a refund. When he called, they told him to return the check with a letter explaining the situation. He sent it back certified mail with a copy of his original tax return. About a month later, they withdrew the correct amount from his account. The IRS rep said if he had cashed the erroneous refund check, they would have eventually caught it and he'd owe interest and possibly penalties.
How do you return an IRS check properly? Do you just write "VOID" on it and mail it back, or is there a specific process to follow?
There's a specific process. You should mail the check back to the IRS location listed in the instructions that came with it (or if no instructions, to the IRS office that services your area). Include a brief letter explaining why you're returning it. Don't write VOID on the check - send it back uncashed exactly as you received it. Include your taxpayer info (name, address, SSN) and phone number in your letter. Send it certified mail so you have proof you returned it. The IRS website has instructions for returning erroneous refunds - search for "returning erroneous refund" on IRS.gov.
Check your tax transcript ASAP! You can access it online at IRS.gov by setting up an account. The transcript will show exactly what happened with your return and why they issued a refund. Most likely explanations: 1) The IRS made a mistake in processing 2) You had credits/payments you weren't aware of 3) Your return had a calculation error the IRS corrected 4) They processed an amended return you didn't file (identity theft risk) If it's #4, you need to contact the IRS fraud department immediately. Had this happen to a client of mine - someone filed a fake amended return in their name.
I second this! Transcript is the fastest way to see what's happening. My cousin got a surprise refund last year, and the transcript showed someone had filed an amended return with her info. Turned out to be identity theft.
I actually built my own Excel spreadsheet to handle this exact situation. The key is to understand that with Section 1250 property, you have to count the actual months, but the month of disposal only counts as half a month. So for your example: Property placed in service in May, sold in February. If it was mid-month convention and straight-line: - In the year of sale: count January (1) + half of February (0.5) = 1.5 months - So you'd take (annual depreciation รท 12 ร 1.5) for your final year amount Happy to share my spreadsheet if anyone wants it.
Would love to see that spreadsheet! Does it handle different recovery periods (27.5 vs 39 year) and mid-quarter convention too?
Yes, it handles both 27.5 and 39-year recovery periods for real property. It also has a section for mid-quarter convention that I use for equipment and other business assets. I designed it to be pretty flexible where you just input the property type, cost basis, placed in service date, and disposal date. It automatically determines the right convention and calculates both the regular annual depreciation and any partial year amounts. I've found it matches up with what my accountant calculates manually.
Has anyone here tried using the IRS's own depreciation worksheet in Publication 946? I know it's not as convenient as an online calculator, but it does walk you through all the different conventions and how to handle dispositions during the year. It's a bit tedious but at least you know it's following the exact IRS rules. I think the example on page 47 (or somewhere around there) specifically covers selling property before its anniversary date.
Have you checked your mail at the old address? When I moved last year, the IRS sent a letter requiring identity verification to my old place even though I had filed a change of address with USPS. My refund was stuck in limbo for months until I figured this out. Apparently IRS mail doesn't always get forwarded properly!
That's a good point - I did file a mail forwarding request with USPS but maybe the IRS notice didn't get forwarded correctly. I'm friendly with the new tenants so I could ask them to check if anything came for me. Any idea what these verification notices usually look like so I can tell them what to look for? And if they don't find anything, is there a way to request a copy of whatever notice was sent?
The identity verification letters are usually pretty obvious - they come in IRS envelopes and typically have "Action Required" or something similar printed on them. They're letter 5071C, 5747C, or 5447C usually. If your new tenants can't find it, you can request a copy of the notice by calling the IRS or checking your online account. If it's an identity verification issue, you might be able to complete the verification online through the Identity Verification Service without the original letter. Just go to the IRS website and search for ID verify. You'll need info from previous tax returns, so have that handy!
This happened to me last year and it took FOREVER to resolve. After 8 months of waiting, I finally got through to someone who told me my return had been flagged for a "random review" and was just sitting in a backlog. The crazy thing is, nothing was wrong with my return at all! The IRS is still dealing with massive backlogs from COVID. If you're desperate for the money, you might consider contacting your congressional representative's office. Their constituent services can sometimes inquire with the IRS on your behalf and get things moving. That's what finally worked for me after months of frustration.
Aidan Hudson
Have you looked into filing Schedule C with your taxes? When I was a contractor, I was able to deduct a ton of expenses related to my work - part of my internet bill, phone, computer depreciation, even a portion of rent for my home office space. The self-employment taxes still suck (that 15.3% hits hard), but deductions can really bring down your taxable income. Don't forget to look into the Qualified Business Income deduction too - it lets you deduct 20% of your net profit in most cases.
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Madeline Blaze
โขThanks for this! Would I just list "temp worker" as my business on the Schedule C? And for the home office, do I need to have a dedicated room or can it be like a desk in my bedroom? I'm worried about getting audited if I claim too much.
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Aidan Hudson
โขYou can list "Telecommunications Contractor" or something similar as your business. For home office, the IRS prefers a dedicated space, but it doesn't have to be an entire room - a dedicated desk area that's used regularly and exclusively for work can qualify. Just measure that specific area for your deduction calculation. Don't worry too much about an audit if you're claiming legitimate expenses. Just keep good records of your expenses and be reasonable with your deductions. For example, don't claim 100% of your internet if you also use it for personal stuff - 30-50% is more reasonable depending on how much you use it for work.
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Zoe Wang
Regardless of the contractor situation, make sure you're setting aside money for next year's taxes! This was my biggest mistake when I first started getting 1099 income. You should be making quarterly estimated tax payments to avoid penalties.
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Connor Richards
โขThis is such important advice! I learned this the hard way too. The IRS expects you to pay as you earn throughout the year. I got hit with penalties my first year as a contractor because I didn't know about quarterly payments.
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