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Another option nobody's mentioned yet - you could apply the excess contribution to a future year if you're planning to contribute less than the max. For example, if you're eligible to contribute to a Roth in 2024 but won't max it out, you could apply the excess from 2022 toward your 2024 contribution limit. You'd still pay the 6% penalty for 2022 and 2023, but it might be easier than dealing with withdrawal or recharacterization if your plan is to keep contributing anyway.
That's an interesting option I hadn't thought about. Would I still need to file anything special for 2022 and 2023 to show that I'm now applying that excess to 2024? Or does just paying the penalty take care of it?
You would need to file Form 5329 for tax years 2022 and 2023 to pay the 6% excise tax for each of those years. Then when you do your 2024 taxes, you would indicate that you're applying prior year excess contributions to your 2024 contribution limit. The important thing is that you don't make a full contribution for 2024 if you're applying the excess from 2022. For example, if the 2024 limit is $7,000 and you're applying $4,630 from 2022, you would only be able to contribute an additional $2,370 for 2024. It's a good option if you're short on cash but still want to maintain your retirement savings.
Another thing to consider - the contribution limits for Roth IRAs increase sometimes. For 2024, the limit is $7,000 for those under 50. Depending on your expected income this year, that might affect your decision about how to handle the excess.
The Roth income limits also increased for 2024. For single filers, the phaseout range is now $146,000-$161,000. So if OP's income is similar to 2022 (around $140k), they might be fully eligible this year without any phaseout.
I used to be a rideshare driver and made this exact mistake my first year! I thought I had to choose between mileage deduction OR standard deduction and overpaid by thousands. Here's what I learned the hard way: 1. The mileage deduction goes on Schedule C to reduce your business income 2. The standard deduction is totally separate and goes on your 1040 3. You definitely get BOTH! Also make sure you're tracking all your miles correctly. Any driving between passengers counts too (not just when someone's in your car). And don't forget other expenses like a portion of your phone bill, car washes, etc.
Wait really? I've been driving for UberEats for 6 months and only counting miles when I have food in the car. So I can count ALL the miles when I'm logged into the app and available for deliveries?
Yes! Any miles driven while you're actively working (logged into the app and available) count as business miles, even if you don't currently have a passenger or food in the car. The IRS considers this "on the clock" time. The only miles you can't count are your personal trips or your commute to your starting point before logging in. But once you're logged in and working, those "empty" miles between rides or deliveries are absolutely deductible business miles. This is a huge thing many drivers miss! Make sure you're tracking all those miles - it can make a big difference in your tax bill.
Is anybody else worried about getting audited? I'm claiming both deductions like everyone says but my taxable income is coming out to like $3,500 on $42,000 in rideshare earnings and I'm kinda freaking out that the IRS is gonna come after me.
I was worried about the same thing last year, so I asked my brother-in-law who's an accountant. He said just make sure you have good documentation for your mileage. Like a detailed log with dates and miles. The IRS knows rideshare drivers have high expenses, especially with mileage, so the low taxable income by itself isn't a red flag. Just make sure you can back up your numbers if they ask.
That's a relief to hear! I've been using MileIQ to track all my driving so I should have pretty good records. I guess I was just shocked at how much difference the deductions made. Thanks for the reassurance!
Make sure you check if you're eligible for any property tax exemptions with the newly built house! Many counties offer homestead exemptions, and some have additional ones for veterans, seniors, or primary residences. This could save you thousands each year. Also, keep all documentation about this situation - the original escrow refund, the tax bills, and receipts of payment. Tax assessments on new construction often get adjusted in the first 2-3 years as counties fully process everything, and having a paper trail will help if there are any disputes.
Thank you for this suggestion! I didn't even think about exemptions. Do I need to apply for these or are they automatic? Our county website is pretty awful and hard to navigate.
You almost always need to apply for exemptions - they're rarely automatic. Most homestead exemptions require an application within the first year or two of occupancy. Your county's tax assessor's office should have the forms, even if their website is terrible. It's worth calling them directly or visiting in person since these exemptions can save you significant money every year. Some counties also have partial exemptions for energy-efficient new construction, so ask about that too if your home has any green features. Don't wait on this - many exemptions have filing deadlines that, if missed, mean you'll have to wait until next tax year.
Don't forget to double check if your property tax bill is paid in arrears in your state! This is super important. In some states, you're paying for the previous year's taxes, while in others you're paying for the current year. If you're in a state that pays in arrears, that bill might actually be for the time period when your house was still under construction, which might explain some of the confusion.
I've dealt with these computation notices before. One important thing to note: even if you agree with their assessment, you might qualify for penalty abatement, especially if this is your first notice or you've had a good compliance history. You can specifically request "First Time Penalty Abatement" if you've had no significant issues with the IRS for the past 3 years. This won't reduce the tax amount or interest, but could save you hundreds in penalties. Just call the IRS (or use one of those services mentioned) and specifically ask about penalty abatement options. The worst they can say is no!
Is this something you have to specifically request? I paid a similar notice last year and no one mentioned anything about penalty abatement to me. I had a perfect tax record before that too.
Yes, you absolutely have to specifically request penalty abatement - the IRS will almost never offer it voluntarily! It's not widely advertised, but it's an official IRS administrative waiver. Many people qualify but never know to ask for it. If you paid penalties within the last 2-3 years and had a clean record before that, you might be able to request a retroactive abatement and get those penalties refunded. You'd need to call the IRS and specifically request "First Time Penalty Abatement" for the tax year in question, explaining that you had a good compliance history before that. It's definitely worth trying!
Whatever you do, DON'T ignore this notice!! My brother thought his CP2000 was a mistake and just tossed it aside. Fast forward 6 months and his bank account got levied. The IRS had gone ahead with their computation, added more penalties for non-response, and then took collection action. Even if you need more time to sort it out, make sure you respond before the deadline (usually 30 days) requesting more time. The IRS is actually pretty reasonable if you communicate with them, but they have zero patience for people who ignore their notices.
This is solid advice. I work in a tax office and we see this all the time. People bring in final collection notices for issues that could have been easily resolved months earlier. By that point, options are much more limited and the amounts owed have usually increased significantly.
Mateo Lopez
One thing that really helped me with entering tax data was creating a simple checklist of all my tax documents before I even started. I literally make a spreadsheet with: - Document type (W-2, 1099-INT, 1099-B, etc.) - Who it's from - Amount on the form - Status (entered, pending, questions) This way I can methodically check off each document as I enter it and make notes about any questions. It prevents that panicky feeling of "did I forget something?" when you're about to submit your federal return.
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Aisha Abdullah
ā¢That's smart! Do you just use a regular spreadsheet or is there a template somewhere? Also, how do you handle documents that have multiple numbers on them like investment statements?
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Mateo Lopez
ā¢I just use a regular Excel or Google Sheets spreadsheet that I created myself. Nothing fancy, just those columns I mentioned. For complex documents like investment statements, I expand my tracking approach. I create sub-rows under the main document listing key figures (dividends, capital gains distributions, etc.) and note the specific form boxes where those numbers should go. Sometimes I even take screenshots of the tax software entry screens and note which box on my document goes to which field in the software. It's a bit more work upfront, but it saves me tons of confusion, especially for documents that have dozens of figures on them.
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Ethan Davis
Has anyone had success using the IRS Free File options? I'm trying to save money but I'm worried the free versions won't handle multiple income sources or that they'll push me to upgrade halfway through...
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Yuki Tanaka
ā¢I used IRS Free File last year with W-2, some freelance income, and a small amount of stocks. It worked fine for me! Just make sure you go through the IRS website (irs.gov/freefile) rather than going directly to the tax company sites. If you go direct, they sometimes don't show the free options.
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