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Ask the community...

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Romeo Quest

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Another strategy the ultra-wealthy use is timing their income recognition. For example, Musk exercised a ton of options in 2021 when he knew he'd have to pay tax on them anyway, creating a huge tax bill that year. But this was likely strategic timing based on his overall financial plan. Also, many wealthy individuals establish charitable foundations and donor-advised funds. They donate appreciated stock directly to these entities (avoiding capital gains tax) and get a tax deduction for the full market value. The foundation can then sell the stock tax-free and use the proceeds for charitable activities that may align with the donor's interests.

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Val Rossi

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Do those charitable deductions really offset the taxes they would have paid though? I always assumed the math wouldn't work out since you're giving away the whole asset value to save a percentage in taxes.

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Romeo Quest

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You're right that the pure math doesn't work out if you're only thinking about tax savings - you'll always have more money if you just pay the taxes instead of donating the entire asset. The charitable deduction typically saves you your marginal tax rate (37% federal for top earners) plus potentially state taxes. However, the strategy makes sense when combined with genuine philanthropic goals. By donating appreciated stock, you avoid capital gains tax (up to 23.8% federal) that would have been due if you sold first and then donated cash. You also get the deduction for the full market value. So while you're giving away the asset, you're doing it in the most tax-efficient manner possible.

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Eve Freeman

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Everyone is talking about loans but missing a key point - for people like Musk, a lot of their "spending money" comes from other cash flows: board seats at other companies, speaking fees, book deals, etc. These provide regular income streams separate from their main stock holdings. Also, these ultra-wealthy people often have business expenses that are legally paid by their companies. Company car, security, travel on company aircraft - these reduce their need for personal spending while maintaining their lifestyle.

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Don't they have to pay taxes on those perks though? I thought if a company pays for personal expenses it counts as compensation and is taxable?

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Noah Lee

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Don't forget about state filing requirements too! Many states require separate notification for fiscal year changes, and some have different forms than the federal 1128. In California, for example, you need to file Form 3815 in addition to the federal form. I'd recommend checking each state where your client has filing obligations to make sure you're covering all bases. Missing a state notification can sometimes be worse than missing the federal one!

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Margot Quinn

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Thanks for bringing this up! Client is in multiple states (TX, FL, and NY) - do you know if NY has specific requirements? Completely forgot about the state angle.

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Noah Lee

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New York does have specific requirements. They generally conform to federal for the fiscal year change itself, but you need to file Form CT-300 to report the change for corporation franchise tax purposes. They're particularly strict about timely notification. Texas doesn't have a specific form but requires a letter of explanation attached to the franchise tax report covering the short period. Florida is generally easier - they usually just require that you check a box on their form F-1120 indicating it's a short-year return and provide an explanation.

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Has anyone dealt with QBI deduction calculations for a short year? Trying to figure out if there are special considerations there.

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QBI for short years needs to be annualized for the wage/capital limitation tests. Multiply the QBI by 12 and divide by months in short period. This applies to the 50% of W-2 wages test and the 25% wages plus 2.5% of unadjusted basis test. Easy to miss but important!

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Another option worth exploring is contacting your state's unemployment office. Sometimes they have employer information on file even when the IRS transcript is incomplete. I had to do this when filing back taxes from 2018, and the state labor department had the EINs for two companies that had gone bankrupt. Also, if your friend contributed to a 401k during that time, the plan administrator might have records with the employer information. Same goes for any health insurance he had through those employers - the insurance company may still have the employer EIN on file.

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Chloe Martin

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Thank you for this suggestion! I didn't even think about checking with the state unemployment office. He did have health insurance through one of the jobs so we'll definitely reach out to the insurance company as well. Do you remember what department specifically you had to contact at the state level? Was it just the general unemployment office or did you have to ask for a specific record-keeping division?

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I contacted the wage record unit within the state's Department of Labor. Most states have a division that handles wage reporting from employers for unemployment tax purposes. Just call the main unemployment office number and ask to be directed to whoever maintains employer wage records. For the health insurance angle, you'll want to contact the member services department and explain you need the employer information for tax purposes. Sometimes they'll need a written request, but in my experience, they were pretty helpful once I explained the situation.

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One thing nobody's mentioned yet - you should consider the statute of limitations for refunds when filing back taxes. If your friend is owed money from the IRS for 2020, he needs to file before April 2024 (3 years from the original due date) or he loses that refund forever! But if he OWES money, there's no time limit for the IRS to collect, so he definitely needs to get this sorted. Also, penalties and interest keep accruing the longer he waits to file.

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Actually the deadline for 2020 refunds would be May 17, 2024, since the IRS extended the filing deadline that year because of covid. But your point is totally valid - time is running out to claim any refund from 2020!

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Just want to add something important that nobody's mentioned yet - if you're filing a prior year return AND you owe money, you should file ASAP to minimize penalties and interest! The failure-to-file penalty is usually 5% of unpaid taxes for each month your return is late (up to 25%), while the failure-to-pay penalty is much smaller at 0.5% per month. Also, check if you qualify for "first-time penalty abatement" - if you haven't had any penalties in the prior 3 years, the IRS might waive your late-filing penalties. I saved over $400 this way!

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Do you know if you can request the first-time penalty abatement when you file the late return, or do you have to wait until after they assess the penalties?

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You typically need to wait until after the IRS assesses the penalties before requesting first-time penalty abatement. So you'd file your late return, receive a notice from the IRS about penalties, and then call them to request the abatement. When you call, specifically ask for "first-time penalty abatement" and explain that you have a clean compliance history for the previous three years. They'll check your records, and if you qualify, they can often approve it during that same call. It's definitely worth doing - the penalties can add up quickly on late returns!

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Dont forget that if youre getting a REFUND for your 2023 taxes, you have until April 15, 2027 to file and still get your money back!! But if you OWE money, your already accumulating penalties and interest. The IRS doesn't care about unfiled returns that owe them $0 or that they owe YOU money for.

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Eli Butler

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Are you sure about that? I thought the IRS requires you to file regardless of whether you're getting a refund or not. I've always heard not filing is illegal even if you don't owe anything.

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One practical reason the effective tax rate matters: understanding your true tax burden helps with budgeting throughout the year. When I was looking at withholdings from my paycheck, I kept thinking "why are they taking only 15% when I'm in the 22% bracket?" The answer was that my effective rate was actually around 15%. This helped me adjust my withholdings more accurately so I wouldn't get a huge refund (basically an interest-free loan to the government) or owe a bunch at tax time. Knowing your effective rate lets you more accurately plan your actual take-home pay!

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Can you explain how you calculated the right withholding amount? I always end up with either a huge refund or owing money, and I can never get it right.

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I used the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator on their website, which accounts for your total income, filing status, dependents, and expected deductions. The key is inputting accurate info about all income sources and any pre-tax deductions like 401k or health insurance. For a more manual approach, I take my expected annual income, subtract deductions, calculate the total tax using the brackets, then divide by the number of pay periods. This gives me the amount that should be withheld each period. If it differs from what's actually being withheld, I adjust my W-4.

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Mei Wong

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The way I explain tax rates vs effective rates to my friends: imagine you have 5 buckets. - First bucket (up to $11,000): taxed at 10% - Second bucket ($11,001-$44,725): taxed at 12% - Third bucket ($44,726-$95,375): taxed at 22% ...and so on Your dollars "fill up" each bucket before moving to the next. So your first $11k is always taxed at 10%, no matter how much you make total. The effective rate is just the average rate across all your filled buckets combined. This is why getting a raise that "puts you in a higher bracket" only affects the dollars that actually reach that new bracket!

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This bucket analogy makes so much sense! I've been trying to explain this to my partner for years. Quick question though - do tax credits affect the effective rate differently than deductions? Like if I get a $2,000 child tax credit vs a $2,000 deduction?

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