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Quick tip from someone who's dealt with this before: make copies of EVERYTHING before sending in your amended return. I learned this the hard way when the IRS claimed they never received parts of my K-1 documentation. Also, if your K-1 amounts are small (like under $100 in any category), you might want to check if it's worth amending at all. Sometimes the tax difference is literally pennies, and you're creating more paperwork for yourself.
Thanks for the advice! How do I determine if the amounts on my K-1 will actually change my tax liability enough to make filing an amendment worthwhile?
The simplest way is to do a quick calculation with the largest numbers on your K-1. For example, if you see ordinary business income (Box 1) of $30, that would only increase your taxes by about $3-6 depending on your tax bracket. For small amounts like that, some people choose to wait and see if the IRS sends a notice. Look especially at Boxes 1-3 since those directly affect your income. If they total less than $50-100, the tax impact might be minimal. But remember, technically you're supposed to report all income regardless of amount. If you're more comfortable being 100% compliant, then file the amendment even for small amounts.
Anyone know if TurboTax handles K-1 amendments easily? I'm in a similar situation as OP but I used TurboTax to file originally.
Have you looked into whether your employer would be open to switching you from W-2 to 1099 independent contractor status? That would allow you to deduct ALL your business mileage. Just something to consider if they won't do an accountable plan.
I actually asked about that last year, but my company said they can't do it because of how they control my schedule and work processes. Something about the IRS having specific tests for who qualifies as an independent contractor vs. employee. They also mentioned it would mean losing my benefits like health insurance and 401k matching.
That makes sense. The classification rules are pretty strict and the IRS looks at factors like behavioral control, financial control, and relationship factors. If the company controls when and how you work, provides tools/equipment, offers benefits, etc., they're probably correct that you should be classified as an employee. Be careful pushing for 1099 status just for tax deductions - if misclassified, it could create bigger headaches down the road for both you and the employer. The accountable plan route others suggested is probably your best option at this point.
One option nobody's mentioned - some companies will pay you a higher commission rate instead of reimbursing expenses. I negotiated this at my last sales job - they bumped my commission from 7% to 9% to cover my vehicle expenses, which actually worked out better for me in the end. Might be worth asking!
This is what I did too. My company was resistant to dealing with expense reports, so they just increased my commission structure. Just make sure you do the math first - calculate what your annual mileage reimbursement would actually be (miles Ć IRS rate) and make sure the commission increase at least covers that amount.
I used OLT (OnLine Taxes) last year for my 1040-NR and it worked pretty well for e-filing. It's not as slick looking as some of the bigger names, but they support nonresident forms and it's cheaper than most options. The interface is a bit clunky but if you have a straightforward situation it gets the job done.
Did OLT handle state returns for nonresidents too? I'm in California and I heard they have a special nonresident state form that's super complicated.
Yes, OLT does handle state returns for nonresidents including California's form 540NR which is indeed quite complicated. They have specific sections for California's unique rules regarding nonresident income allocation and deductions. The state portion did require a bit more manual input compared to the federal section, especially for segregating California-source income from non-California income. But they provide decent guidance along the way with popup explanations for the trickier parts of nonresident state filing.
Has anyone tried using a CPA who specializes in nonresident taxes? I'm considering it this year because my situation is complicated with income from teaching, a research grant, and some freelance consulting work from my home country that I'm not sure how to report.
I went with a specialized international tax CPA last year and it was expensive ($450) but worth it for my complicated situation. He found deductions I never would have known about and properly applied tax treaty benefits. If you have multiple income sources like you described, it might be worth the investment.
3 Don't forget about the ordering rules when amending returns. You should amend 2021 first, then 2022, because any changes to 2021 (especially with carried losses) can affect your 2022 return. I learned this the hard way when I had to amend multiple years for my rental property.
1 That's a really good point I hadn't considered. If I amend 2021 to show the losses, would any unused losses potentially carry forward to the 2022 return? I'm trying to figure out the right sequence here.
3 Yes, exactly. Any disallowed passive losses from 2021 (amounts that exceed what you're allowed to deduct due to the income limitations) would carry forward to 2022. So first figure out your 2021 situation - how much loss you can actually claim after the Form 8582 calculations, then carry any remaining disallowed losses to 2022. Even if you can't deduct all the losses in either year due to the $150K phaseout, having them properly documented and carried forward is important because you can eventually claim them when you dispose of the property. That's why doing them in the right order matters.
19 Has anyone tried using tax software for amendments involving rental properties? I'm looking at TurboTax but not sure if it handles the 8582 form well for amended returns.
10 I used TaxAct for a similar amendment last year. It was decent with Schedule E but the Form 8582 calculations were confusing. Had to basically understand the form myself to make sure it was done right. Not super user-friendly for rental property amendments.
Amina Bah
Jumping in here as someone who nannied through college - you definitely need to report the income, but don't panic! You might qualify as an independent contractor rather than an employee since it sounds like a casual arrangement. In that case, you'll file Schedule C where you can deduct business expenses - things like gas money if you drove the kids places, any supplies you purchased for activities, maybe even a portion of your cell phone bill if you used it for work coordination. Those deductions can significantly reduce your taxable income. Also, look into the Qualified Business Income Deduction - you might be able to deduct an additional 20% of your net income which would help a lot.
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Ava Thompson
ā¢Thanks! I didn't even think about being able to deduct things. I did drive the kids to soccer practice twice a week and bought art supplies a few times. Would I need receipts for all of that? I definitely didn't keep them...
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Amina Bah
ā¢For the driving, you don't need receipts - you can use the standard mileage rate (around 67 cents per mile for 2025). Just make your best estimate of how many miles you drove for work purposes. Keep a better log going forward! For supplies, receipts are ideal but not absolutely required. If you have bank or credit card statements showing purchases at relevant stores, that can help substantiate your claims. Make reasonable estimates of what you spent - just be prepared to explain your calculations if ever questioned. Going forward, keep all receipts and maybe use a separate payment method for work expenses to make tracking easier.
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Oliver Becker
Don't stress too much about back taxes - the IRS is usually pretty reasonable with first-time issues, especially for relatively small amounts. I didn't report some freelance income a few years ago (about $9k) and when I finally did, the penalties were way less scary than I expected. If you're worried, you could look into the IRS Voluntary Disclosure Program. Basically if you come forward before they catch you, penalties are much lower. The most important thing is to start reporting correctly going forward.
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Natasha Petrova
ā¢This is actually bad advice. The Voluntary Disclosure Program is for OFFSHORE accounts and much more serious tax evasion. What OP would want is just to file an accurate return, possibly with a "reasonable cause" statement explaining the mistake.
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