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Just pointing out that the IRS rules for claiming a qualifying child are pretty specific. For you to claim the child, they need to have lived with you for more than half the year, be related to you, be under 19 (or 24 if a student), not provide more than half of their own support, and not be filing a joint return. The custodial parent usually has the right to claim the child, but can release that claim to the non-custodial parent using Form 8332. Check if you have any written agreements about who claims the child in your divorce paperwork.
Our daughter lives with me about 70% of the time, and I'm the custodial parent according to our divorce decree. My ex was supposed to claim her last year because we verbally agreed to alternate years, but apparently he never did. We don't have anything formal like Form 8332 filed. Does that mean I should definitely file the amendment then?
Yes, you should definitely file the amendment. Since you're the custodial parent with the child living with you 70% of the time, and you didn't sign Form 8332 to release the claim, you have the legal right to claim your daughter as a dependent. Without Form 8332, a non-custodial parent cannot claim the child regardless of verbal agreements. The IRS follows the documentation, not verbal agreements between parents. You're potentially leaving significant money on the table by not claiming her, especially with the expanded Child Tax Credit.
Has anyone used TurboTax to file an amended return for something like this? Is it pretty straightforward or should I go to an actual accountant? I'm in a similar situation with my kid.
I used TurboTax to amend my return last year when I forgot to claim my son's college expenses. It was surprisingly easy - you just start an amended return and it walks you through what you want to change. For something like adding a dependent, it should recalculate everything including any credits you might be eligible for.
Just want to add that your refund timeline can also depend on when you file during tax season. I'm a tax preparer, and I've noticed: January/early February filers: Usually get refunds quickest (often 14-21 days) March filers: Still pretty quick (typically 21-30 days) April filers: Can take longer due to volume (sometimes 30+ days) Extension filers: Often the longest wait times If you filed in the last couple weeks, you're in prime tax season when the IRS is processing millions of returns, so don't panic if it takes the full 21 days or even a bit longer.
Is there any truth to the idea that filing super early (like January 24th this year) actually takes longer because the IRS systems are "warming up" or whatever? My neighbor swears by filing in mid-February for the fastest refund.
That's actually a misconception. The IRS systems are fully operational from day one of tax season. However, there is some truth that certain early filers might experience delays, but it's not because of "warming up." What's actually happening is that many early filers claim refundable credits like the Earned Income Tax Credit or Additional Child Tax Credit, which by law cannot be issued before mid-February regardless of when you file. So your neighbor might be seeing a pattern based on this particular timing issue rather than IRS systems being slower early in the season.
Just a warning - I filed on February 1st and still haven't received my refund (it's been almost 10 weeks now)! The Where's My Refund tool just says "Your return is still being processed." I've tried calling but can't get through. I'm wondering if it's because I claimed the recovery rebate credit for a missing stimulus payment? Has anyone else experienced long delays this year? Really regretting not paying the extra $40 for audit protection through my tax software now. ๐ซ
Yes! The recovery rebate credit is definitely causing delays. I filed with that too and waited 11 weeks. Try checking your transcript on the IRS website instead of Where's My Refund - it gives more detailed codes that might explain the hold. For me, code 570 showed up which means they were reviewing it.
OP, one thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is that different 529 plans have different features and benefits. Some factors to consider: 1. State tax deduction - Some states offer tax deductions for contributions to their own 529 plans. Check if your state offers this benefit. 2. Investment options - Plans vary widely in investment choices. Some have age-based options that automatically become more conservative as your child approaches college age. 3. Fees - Administrative fees and expense ratios can significantly impact growth over time. 4. Flexibility - Recent changes allow 529 funds to be used for K-12 education (up to certain limits) and even student loan repayment. I personally chose my state's plan for the tax deduction, but then later rolled it over to another state's plan that had better investment options and lower fees. You can change plans once per 12-month period without penalty.
Can 529 plans only be used for college? My kids might want to do trade school or something non-traditional. Would a different savings vehicle be better in that case?
Great question! 529 plans have actually become much more flexible in recent years. They can be used for a wide range of education options beyond traditional four-year colleges, including vocational schools, trade programs, technical schools, and even apprenticeship programs registered with the Department of Labor. If you're still concerned about flexibility, another option to consider is a Coverdell Education Savings Account, which allows for more diverse qualified expenses including K-12 costs. However, Coverdells have much lower contribution limits ($2,000 annually) and income restrictions that 529s don't have. Some families also use UGMA/UTMA accounts which have no education restriction but do transfer to the child's control at age of majority (18-21 depending on state), and they don't have the tax advantages of education-specific accounts.
Has anyone mentioned the "kiddie tax" yet? If these college accounts generate significant interest or dividends, it might trigger tax filing requirements for the kids. For 2025, the first $1,250 of unearned income is tax-free, the next $1,250 is taxed at the child's rate, and anything above $2,500 is taxed at the parent's rate.
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - even if $60k is reasonable now, you should review your salary annually. As your business grows or your duties expand, what's "reasonable" will likely change. I typically document my salary decision process every year with: 1) Updated market rate research for similar positions 2) Notes on changes to my responsibilities/hours 3) Business performance metrics 4) Comparison to what I'd pay someone else for the same work This annual review habit has saved me twice during IRS questions about my S-Corp compensation. They were satisfied when I showed my systematic approach.
Does the timing of salary changes matter? Like if I start with $60k in January but business is booming by June, should I give myself a mid-year raise or wait until the following year?
Yes, you can absolutely give yourself a mid-year raise if circumstances warrant it. Many S-Corp owners adjust their salaries as the year progresses and business performance becomes clearer. Just document your reasoning thoroughly - note the increased business performance, expanded responsibilities, or whatever factors led to the adjustment. What the IRS doesn't like to see is erratic salary patterns that appear to be manipulating payroll taxes rather than reflecting actual changes in the business. For example, artificially keeping salary low all year then taking a massive "bonus" in December looks suspicious. A clean mid-year adjustment with clear business justification is perfectly acceptable.
My accountant gave me a simple formula for S-Corps that might help you. She said take 1/3 of your business net profit as salary (minimum), keep 1/3 for reinvestment/business growth, and the remaining 1/3 can be distribution. So if your business nets $180k, a $60k salary would be right at that minimum threshold. I've done this for 5 years now and never been questioned about reasonable compensation. Obviously it's not a hard rule that works for everyone, but it's a starting point that seems to keep the IRS satisfied in my experience.
Is that 1/3 of profit BEFORE or AFTER your salary is deducted? Because that makes a huge difference in the calculation.
Manny Lark
One thing to watch out for with excess HSA contributions - you need to remove not just the excess amount but also any earnings specifically attributable to that excess portion. When I had a similar situation, my HSA provider calculated this as: (Excess amount) ร (Total earnings รท Total account value) ร (Time excess was in account รท 365) It wasn't a huge amount in my case (about $38 on a $1200 excess), but if you don't remove the earnings along with the excess, the IRS considers it an incomplete correction.
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Amun-Ra Azra
โขThat formula is super helpful, thank you! Does the HSA provider typically issue any special tax form for the earnings on the excess that I need to watch for next year? I want to make sure I report everything correctly.
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Manny Lark
โขYes, you'll receive a 1099-SA from your HSA provider that shows the distribution, and there should be a code indicating it was an excess contribution removal. The earnings portion will need to be reported as "Other income" on your tax return for the year you take the distribution (so likely 2025 tax return if you're handling this now). Also, your HSA provider should send you a Form 5498-SA showing your total contributions for the year, but this typically doesn't reflect the removal of excess contributions in a way that's immediately clear. You'll need to keep good records of the excess removal to reconcile everything when you file.
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Rita Jacobs
Has anyone dealt with this situation where you have to remove excess HSA contributions but you've already spent some of the money on qualified medical expenses? I'm in a similar situation to OP but I've used about half of my HSA funds already this year.
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Summer Green
โขThis gets tricky. When you remove excess contributions, you're technically removing the most recent contributions first. If you've spent HSA funds on qualified medical expenses, those distributions are considered to have come from your valid contributions first, not the excess. So even if you've spent money from your HSA, you still need to remove the full excess amount (plus earnings). You'll need available funds to do this. If your current HSA balance is less than the excess amount you need to remove, you may need to add funds back temporarily just to facilitate the removal.
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