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One thing I learned from my reconsideration (approved last month!) is to include a table of contents and tab/label all supporting documents. My CPA made a cover page for each disputed item with a summary of why the original determination was incorrect and what documents were attached to support our position. Made it super easy for the reviewer to follow.
That's a brilliant idea! I'm definitely going to use a table of contents approach. About how many pages was your full submission package?
This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm a tax professional who's handled about a dozen audit reconsiderations over the past few years, and I want to add one crucial point that I haven't seen mentioned yet. Always include a specific timeline in your reconsideration letter showing when events occurred and when documentation was created. The IRS needs to understand why certain information wasn't available during the original audit. For example, if bank statements were requested but the taxpayer's bank had a processing delay, or if medical records weren't released until after the audit closed - spell this out clearly. I also recommend including a brief "procedural history" section that summarizes what happened during the original audit, what was requested, what was provided, and what the final determination was. This helps the reconsideration reviewer understand the full context without having to dig through the original audit file extensively. One more tip: if you're dealing with multiple tax years, submit separate reconsideration requests for each year even if the issues are similar. The IRS processes these by tax year, and combining them can actually slow things down.
This is exactly what I needed to hear! I'm working on my first audit reconsideration and hadn't thought about including a procedural history section. That makes so much sense - giving the reviewer context upfront rather than making them piece it together. Quick question about the timeline approach you mentioned: should I include dates for when I first requested documents from third parties (like banks or medical providers), or just focus on when I actually received them? My client's situation involves some delayed 1099s that didn't arrive until after the audit was closed.
One thing to consider - are you SURE these are passive losses and not at-risk limitations or basis limitations? These all carry forward but have different rules for when you can use them. Many people confuse these concepts. For example, losses limited by basis are deductible once you increase your basis, which is different from passive activity rules. Double-check which limitation actually created your carryover!
This is exactly the kind of situation where keeping detailed records becomes crucial. I've been dealing with K-1 passive losses for over a decade, and what I've learned is that the IRS gives you flexibility, but you need to be organized about tracking everything. You're absolutely right that you don't need to amend - passive losses carry forward indefinitely until you have passive income or dispose of the activity. But here's what I wish someone had told me earlier: create a simple spreadsheet tracking your loss carryovers by year and source. Include the original loss amount, how much you've used each year, and what's remaining. This becomes especially important if you have multiple K-1 sources or if the amounts are substantial. When you do have passive income in future years, you'll want clear documentation showing exactly how much carryover you have available to claim. The IRS may not require immediate use of all available losses, but they will expect proper documentation if they ever examine your returns. Also consider whether these losses might be more valuable to you in future tax years when you might be in a higher bracket. Since you have the flexibility to use them strategically, it could be worth running some projections.
This is excellent advice about record keeping! I'm just starting to deal with my first K-1 passive losses and I'm already feeling overwhelmed by the complexity. Your spreadsheet idea sounds really practical. Could you share what specific columns you include? I want to make sure I'm tracking everything correctly from the beginning rather than trying to reconstruct years of data later like the original poster had to do. Also, when you mention "projections" for future tax years - are you referring to estimating future passive income, or also considering how tax bracket changes might affect the value of these deductions? I'm trying to understand the strategic element you mentioned.
I'm a little confused by some of the responses here. The $5,000 threshold is just about whether you get a 1099-K form, not whether you need to report the income. ALL income is taxable regardless of amount or whether you got a tax form. The only exception would be if you're selling personal items at a loss (like used clothes for less than you paid for them). That's not taxable because there's no profit. But if you're making and selling crafts on Etsy, that's income even if it's just $50. The honest answer to the question is "yes" you received payments through a third party network.
So basically I should just answer "yes" then? I'm just worried about having to fill out a bunch of complicated business forms for what's basically just a hobby that made less than $1000. Will that trigger a full Schedule C or something?
Yes, you should answer "yes" since you did receive payments through Etsy. When you do that, TurboTax will walk you through some additional questions. Since your situation sounds more like a hobby than a business (based on the small amount and how you described it), you may be able to report it as "Other Income" on Schedule 1 rather than filing a full Schedule C. TurboTax should help determine this based on your answers to their follow-up questions about profit motive and how regularly you engage in this activity.
Is nobody going to mention the hobby loss rule? If this is truly a hobby (not a profit-seeking activity), you can report the income but you CANNOT deduct any expenses against it anymore. The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act eliminated hobby expense deductions. If you're regularly trying to make money from your Etsy store, it might be better to treat it as a business so you can deduct your expenses. Otherwise you're paying tax on the full $875 with no deductions for your supplies.
This is actually a really important point that's often overlooked. I learned this the hard way last year when I tried to deduct expenses for my occasional DJ gigs that I mostly do for fun.
Another simple trick - look at your 2020 tax return PDF file size. If it's bigger than usual, you probably itemized because Schedule A adds pages. My standard deduction returns are always like 10-15 pages but my itemized years are 20+ pages with all the extra forms. Just a quick way to check before digging into the actual numbers.
Oh that's actually really clever! I never thought about checking file size. Does this work even if you e-filed though? I don't think I printed out all the forms but maybe the PDF would still be different sizes?
Yes, it works even if you e-filed! The PDF you get from your tax software after filing (usually called something like "2020_Tax_Return.pdf") will include all forms that were submitted with your return, even if you never printed them out. The file size difference comes from all the additional schedules and worksheets that get generated when you itemize. Besides Schedule A itself, there are often supporting documents for medical expenses, property taxes, mortgage interest, charitable contributions, etc. So the PDF generally ends up noticeably larger than years when you took the standard deduction.
UGH im looking at my 2020 return right now and line 12 shows $24,800 but there's also something on line 8 that says "Schedule A" with a checkmark? Super confused!!! Why would it have schedule A but also the standard deduction amount??
That's unusual but I think I know what happened. The "Schedule A" checkmark on line 8 probably means you filled out Schedule A to compare your itemized deductions against the standard deduction. But since line 12 shows exactly $24,800 (the standard deduction amount for married filing jointly), you ultimately took the standard deduction because it was higher than your itemized amount would have been. TurboTax and other software often complete Schedule A as part of the process even if you end up taking the standard deduction, just to determine which gives you the better outcome.
Maxwell St. Laurent
Has anybody successfully claimed this credit on their taxes yet? I'm trying to figure out exactly which form to use for the used EV credit and whether I need anything besides the purchase agreement when I file. My tax software seems confused about it.
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PaulineW
β’I claimed it on my 2023 taxes. You'll need to fill out Form 8936 (Qualified Plug-in Electric Drive Motor Vehicle Credit) which covers both new and used EV credits. Make sure you have the VIN number, purchase date, and amount paid. Keep your purchase agreement with your tax records but you don't actually submit it with your return.
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Mei Liu
Thanks for all the helpful information everyone! Just to add one more perspective - I work as a tax preparer and I've helped several married couples navigate this exact situation. The key points that keep coming up are: 1. Each spouse can claim the used EV credit once in a 3-year period, even on a joint return 2. The vehicle must be titled in the name of the person claiming the credit 3. Keep all your documentation - the IRS has been scrutinizing these credits more closely 4. Double-check the income limits ($150k for MFJ) and vehicle requirements (under $25k, at least 2 years old, dealer sale) One thing I'd add that hasn't been mentioned - if you're planning to buy two used EVs within a short timeframe, consider the timing strategically. Since the credit is non-refundable, you can only use it to offset your actual tax liability. If you don't have enough tax liability to use both credits in one year, spacing the purchases might be more beneficial. Also, make sure your tax software is updated for the current tax year - some older versions don't handle the used EV credit properly on Form 8936.
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Natasha Petrov
β’This is really helpful advice, especially the point about timing the purchases strategically! I hadn't thought about the tax liability limitation. Quick question - when you say "spacing the purchases," do you mean buying them in different tax years? And is there a way to estimate ahead of time if we'll have enough tax liability to use both credits in one year, or should we just plan to spread them out to be safe?
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