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Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
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  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
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  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

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Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Liam Cortez

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I work as a tax preparer and want to clarify something that might save you time and headaches. While the IRS Free File Fillable Forms is definitely your best option for avoiding the interview-style questionnaires, there's an important limitation to be aware of: you can only use it if your adjusted gross income is below certain thresholds (it changes yearly, but it's typically around $79,000 for 2024 returns). If your income is above that threshold, you'll need to use commercial software or paper filing. However, there's a lesser-known workaround: many of the major tax software companies are required by the IRS to offer a "Free File" version of their software for qualifying taxpayers, but they also have separate "free editions" available to everyone that cover basic tax situations. The key is to look for the software company's "free edition" (not their "Free File" version) which usually allows you to prepare and e-file simple returns without the income restrictions. These versions typically handle Form 1040 with standard deductions and common schedules, though they might not support every form you need. Since you've already done the work of figuring out which forms you need and completing them, you should be able to breeze through any of these options much faster than starting from scratch with the interview process.

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Amara Eze

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@bcfcdd38afb5 This is super helpful information about the income thresholds - I had no idea there were different versions with different eligibility requirements! Just to make sure I understand correctly: if someone's AGI is above the threshold for IRS Free File Fillable Forms, they could still potentially use a commercial software's "free edition" to avoid redoing all their work in an interview format? That sounds like it could be a perfect middle ground for people who've already completed their forms but don't qualify for the completely free IRS option. Do you know if these "free editions" from the major companies still require you to go through their questionnaire process, or can you typically just enter the data directly like with the fillable forms?

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Charlee Coleman

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@bcfcdd38afb5 Great point about the income thresholds! Most of the major companies' "free editions" do still use some form of interview process, but it's usually much more streamlined than their paid versions. For example, TurboTax Free Edition will still ask you questions, but you can often skip through sections quickly if you already know your situation. However, if you want to completely avoid the interview format, you might want to look into FreeTaxUSA's basic version. In my experience, it allows more direct form entry similar to the IRS fillable forms, but without the income restrictions. You can essentially jump straight to entering your numbers without going through extensive questionnaires. The key is being selective about which "free" option you choose based on whether you want guidance (interview style) or direct control (form-based entry). Since you've already done the calculations and know which forms you need, the form-based approach will definitely be faster.

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RaΓΊl Mora

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As someone who's been through this exact frustration, I completely understand your situation! The good news is there are several viable options that don't require you to start over with those annoying interview questionnaires. Your best bet is probably the IRS Free File Fillable Forms (accessible directly through irs.gov). It's essentially the digital version of the paper forms you've already completed - you'll see the same Form 1040 and schedules in web format, and you can just transfer your numbers directly. No interviews, no upsells, just straightforward data entry. If you don't qualify for Free File Fillable Forms due to income thresholds, consider FreeTaxUSA's basic version, which allows more direct form entry without extensive questionnaires. You can jump straight to entering your data rather than answering lifestyle questions. One important tip: always access these services directly through the official websites (irs.gov for Free File, or the company's direct site) to avoid getting redirected to paid services that look similar. The process should be much faster since you've already done the hard work of determining which forms you need and completing the calculations. You're essentially just copying numbers from your PDFs to identical online forms. Just double-check your entries since these systems have minimal error checking compared to the full interview-style software.

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@483b78218ddc This is exactly the comprehensive breakdown I was looking for! Thank you for laying out all the options so clearly. I'm definitely going to try the IRS Free File Fillable Forms first since that sounds like the most straightforward approach for my situation. One quick question - when you mention "minimal error checking," should I be concerned about accidentally making mistakes when transferring the numbers? I'm pretty confident in my calculations from the PDFs, but I want to make sure I don't mess something up during the transfer process. Are there any specific things to double-check or common mistakes to watch out for? Also, it's really helpful to know about FreeTaxUSA as a backup option if the income thresholds are an issue. Having multiple paths forward definitely makes this feel less overwhelming than when I was stuck in TurboTax's endless questionnaire loop!

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Connor Murphy

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anyone else notice the massive amount of 570/971 codes lately?

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Yara Nassar

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yep its everywhere. IRS playing games this year fr

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Cole Roush

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@Liam O'Sullivan check your account transcript on the IRS website - look for the 8-digit cycle code (usually starts with 2025). If it ends in 01-04 you get daily updates, if it ends in 05 you're on weekly (Fridays). The cycle code tells you which processing center you're at and when they batch your return. Don't panic about no movement - some returns just take longer especially if there are any reviews or verifications needed. Keep checking Friday mornings if you're on weekly cycle!

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Zara Khan

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I'm in exactly the same situation with my single-member S-corp! After reading through all these responses, I'm leaning toward trying TaxBandits first since the cost seems reasonable at around $150-180/year. The quarterly payroll schedule makes sense for cash flow too. One question I haven't seen addressed - how do you all handle the actual payroll tax deposits? Do you just calculate them yourself and pay online through EFTPS, or does TaxBandits help with that part? I'm worried about missing deposit deadlines since I know the penalties can be steep even for small amounts. Also, has anyone tried combining TaxBandits with QuickBooks for the record keeping side? I'm already using QB for my regular business bookkeeping, so I'm wondering if there's a good workflow that connects the two.

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Mateo Sanchez

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Great question about payroll deposits! TaxBandits doesn't handle the actual deposit payments - you'll need to make those yourself through EFTPS (Electronic Federal Tax Payment System). For a single-member S-corp, you're typically looking at monthly or semi-weekly deposits depending on your payroll amounts, but with smaller amounts you might qualify for quarterly deposits. The key is setting up EFTPS in advance and marking all the deposit deadlines on your calendar. I use a simple spreadsheet to track when deposits are due based on my payroll schedule. The IRS has clear guidelines on their website about deposit schedules. As for QuickBooks integration, I've found it works well to run payroll calculations in QB and then use those numbers in TaxBandits for the actual form filing. QB can generate the payroll reports you need, and then you just transfer those amounts into the TaxBandits forms. It's not seamless integration, but it creates a good paper trail for your records.

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Zoe Kyriakidou

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I've been using TaxBandits for my single-member S-corp photography business for about 18 months now, and I can definitely recommend it for your situation. The learning curve isn't too steep, and the cost savings compared to full-service providers is significant. A few practical tips from my experience: 1. Set up a dedicated business checking account just for payroll if you haven't already. It makes tracking so much easier when you're paying yourself. 2. I run payroll quarterly and it works perfectly fine. Just make sure you're consistent with your schedule and document everything well. 3. The biggest challenge initially was figuring out the right amount for "reasonable compensation." I ended up researching salary ranges for photographers in my area and settled on about 40% of my net business income as W-2 wages, with the rest as distributions. 4. Don't forget about workers' comp insurance requirements - some states require it even for single-member LLCs electing S-corp status. TaxBandits has been reliable for all my federal filings (941s, 940, W-2s), though I did have to figure out my state unemployment filing separately. Overall, for a solo business owner, it strikes the right balance between cost and functionality.

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Dylan Fisher

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This is really helpful, thank you! The 40% rule for reasonable compensation is interesting - I've been struggling to figure out what's actually "reasonable" for my business. Did you document your research process for determining that percentage? I'm worried about being able to defend my compensation amount if I ever get audited. Also, great point about the workers' comp insurance. I hadn't even thought about that requirement. Do you know if that's something that varies by state, or is it pretty universal for S-corps?

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I totally get your confusion - this happened to me my first year filing with multiple jobs too! The key thing to understand is that your refund isn't really "money you're getting back" - it's just the IRS returning the extra taxes you overpaid during the year. When you only entered your first W-2, TurboTax calculated your tax liability based on just that income. But when you added the second W-2, your total income increased, which means your actual tax liability for the year is higher than what either employer withheld individually. Think of it like this: if you owe $3,000 in total taxes but your employers only withheld $2,500 combined (because they each calculated withholding as if their job was your only income), then you'd actually owe $500 rather than getting a refund. For next year, definitely look into adjusting your W-4 withholding using the IRS multiple jobs worksheet or their online estimator. And remember - a smaller refund isn't necessarily bad! It just means you got to keep more of your money in your paychecks throughout the year instead of giving the government an interest-free loan.

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Laura Lopez

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This is such a helpful way to think about it! I never really understood that a refund is just getting back money I overpaid. So basically having two jobs meant I underpaid throughout the year instead of overpaying like I thought? That makes so much more sense now. I was thinking of it like I was being penalized for working harder, but really I just need to plan better for next year with my withholdings.

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Hey Ethan! I totally understand your confusion - this is one of the most common tax surprises people face when filing for the first time with multiple jobs. Everyone's already given you great explanations about why this happens (the tax bracket issue is spot on), but I wanted to add a practical tip that might help you feel better about the situation. Even though your refund dropped from $1,850 to $740, you're still getting money back! That $740 refund means you actually overpaid your taxes by that amount throughout the year. If you think about it, you essentially got to use that extra $1,100 in your paychecks all year long instead of lending it to the government interest-free. For next year, definitely use the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator tool after you start any new job. It'll help you figure out exactly how to fill out your W-4s so you don't get surprised again. You can access it at irs.gov - just search for "Tax Withholding Estimator." This way you can decide whether you want a bigger refund (by having more taxes withheld) or more money in each paycheck (by having less withheld, but potentially owing at tax time). And definitely don't leave off that second W-2 - the IRS will definitely catch it and the penalties aren't worth it!

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Omar Farouk

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This is really solid advice! I'm dealing with the same situation as Ethan and was honestly pretty stressed about it. The way you explained that the $1,100 difference was actually money I got to keep in my paychecks throughout the year instead of giving the government an interest-free loan really helped me reframe this whole thing. I was looking at it like I was losing money, but really I just had better cash flow all year. Definitely going to check out that IRS withholding estimator before I start my summer job!

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CyberSamurai

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Has anyone here actually reported their GoFundMe on their taxes? I ran one last year and got about $12k, used it all for my medical bills, and honestly didn't report anything. Did I screw up??

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You're probably fine. Gifts aren't considered taxable income to the recipient. The donors might have gift tax implications if any single person gave you over $18,000, but that's their issue, not yours. As long as you used the money as stated in your GoFundMe description, you shouldn't have any tax reporting requirements.

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NebulaNinja

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This is a really thoughtful way to handle the excess funds, Sean! One additional consideration I'd mention is timing - if you're planning to redistribute the $9,000 before the end of this tax year, make sure to space out your donations if you're concerned about hitting the $18,000 annual exclusion limit per recipient. Also, since you mentioned tax season is coming up, keep detailed records of everything: your original GoFundMe description, all incoming donations with dates and amounts, your medical expenses, and then all outgoing transfers to other campaigns. The IRS loves documentation, and having a clear paper trail will make everything much smoother if you ever need to explain the transactions. One last tip - consider reaching out to the recipients of your donations to let them know the funds are coming from your redistributed GoFundMe rather than directly from you personally. This can help establish that you're fulfilling your original campaign promise rather than making independent personal gifts, which could support the "conduit" argument Carmen mentioned above.

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Great advice about the timing and documentation! I'm actually dealing with something similar right now - received more than expected from my GoFundMe and want to pass along the excess. One question though - when you mention "reaching out to the recipients," how do you actually contact someone running a GoFundMe campaign? I can see their campaigns but don't see any direct messaging option on the platform. Do you just leave a public comment on their campaign page explaining where the donation is coming from?

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