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Cynthia Love

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Quick question - does anyone know if there's a minimum amount of capital gains that requires reporting for F1 students? I made like $200 from stocks this year and wondering if I even need to bother with all this Schedule D stuff.

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There's no minimum threshold specifically for capital gains. If you're required to file a tax return (which most F1 students are), then you need to report all your US-source income, including that $200 in capital gains.

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Just to clarify one more point that might be confusing - while everyone is correctly saying to use Schedule D for your capital gains, make sure you understand that as an F1 student filing Form 1040NR, you'll be using Schedule D-NR (the nonresident version), not the regular Schedule D that US residents use. The calculation process is essentially the same, but Schedule D-NR has some specific instructions for nonresidents. Your $720 gain from $5,800 in stock sales would definitely need to be reported using this form, and then the net gain would transfer to your 1040NR. Also, keep good records of your cost basis and sale dates - you'll need those details for the Schedule D-NR. Don't let your friend convince you to use Schedule NEC, that's definitely for contractor/freelance income, not investment gains.

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Zoe Gonzalez

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This is really helpful clarification! I didn't realize there was a separate Schedule D-NR for nonresidents. I've been looking at the regular Schedule D instructions this whole time and was getting confused about some of the sections. Where can I find the Schedule D-NR form and instructions? Is it available on the IRS website like the other forms, or do I need to look somewhere specific for nonresident forms?

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19 Has your wife considered that the finance partner might be refusing these expenses because they're actually not legitimate business expenses? Just playing devil's advocate here. I've been in partnerships where one person thinks everything is a business expense when it's really more personal or questionable.

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1 That's a fair question. These are definitely legitimate - we're talking about industry conference registration fees, software subscriptions specifically for client work, and professional membership dues. All directly related to generating revenue for the business. The finance partner has openly said they're legitimate expenses but is limiting reimbursements due to "cash flow priorities.

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Alfredo Lugo

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This is a frustrating but unfortunately common situation with S Corps. The key point everyone has touched on is correct - the TCJA eliminated personal deductions for unreimbursed employee business expenses, and S Corp owners are treated as employees for this purpose. What I'd suggest is framing this as a business decision rather than a personal tax issue. Those legitimate expenses (conference fees, software, professional memberships) are reducing the company's overall profitability when they're not properly recorded. Even if cash flow prevents immediate reimbursement, the S Corp should at least book these as business expenses and liabilities owed to your wife. This way the business gets the deduction (reducing everyone's K-1 income), and your wife has a documented claim for future reimbursement when cash flow improves. The current approach is essentially forcing all partners to pay higher taxes on phantom income while legitimate business costs go unrecognized. Maybe approach the finance partner with a proposal: "Let's at least record these properly in the books as business expenses, even if we can't cut checks immediately." This protects everyone's tax situation while acknowledging the cash flow constraints.

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Mei Liu

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This is excellent advice! I hadn't thought about framing it as protecting everyone's tax situation rather than just helping my wife. The idea of booking the expenses as liabilities makes a lot of sense - the business still gets the deduction benefit even without immediate cash outlay. I think our finance partner would be more receptive to this approach since it acknowledges the cash flow concerns while still handling the expenses properly from a tax perspective. Do you know if there are any specific accounting requirements for how these liability entries should be recorded?

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Zoe Stavros

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This is exactly why having clear documentation is so crucial when negotiating employment terms! Your employer is essentially trying to rewrite history by calling your specifically negotiated W-2 status a "mistake." The bottom line is that worker classification under IRS rules is determined by the actual working relationship, not what becomes financially convenient for the employer later. If you're working their assigned schedules, in their facility, using their equipment, and following their protocols, you're clearly an employee regardless of the PRN designation. Based on the excellent calculations others have shared, if they somehow insist on 1099 status (which they legally cannot do retroactively), you'd need around $95-105/hour to maintain equivalent after-tax compensation. This accounts for the 15.3% self-employment tax, loss of unemployment/workers' comp protection, professional liability insurance costs, and the administrative burden of quarterly taxes and business record-keeping. My recommendation: Send a polite but firm email referencing your original negotiations and documentation. Make it clear you'll continue under the agreed W-2 terms. If they persist with this "correction," present them with the math showing what equivalent 1099 compensation would actually look like. Don't let them gaslight you into thinking their failure to understand their own classification policies is somehow your problem to solve. You negotiated in good faith and have every right to expect them to honor their commitments.

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Diego Flores

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This is such excellent advice, especially about not letting them gaslight you into thinking their policy confusion is your problem! The documentation aspect really can't be overstated - having that paper trail of specifically negotiating W-2 status makes their "mistake" claim pretty hard to defend. Your point about IRS classification being based on actual working relationships is spot-on. When you're essentially functioning as a staff member (scheduled shifts, using hospital equipment, following their policies), slapping a "PRN" or "contractor" label on it doesn't magically change the employment reality. The $95-105/hour calculation range seems to be the consistent consensus throughout this thread, which gives me confidence it's realistic. It really drives home how much employers save by having W-2 employees versus truly independent contractors - no wonder they're reluctant to honor the original agreement! I appreciate the suggested approach of being polite but firm. Sometimes it's hard to know how to push back professionally while still standing your ground. Having clear documentation and being able to present the actual math behind equivalent compensation should make it much harder for them to dismiss the request. This whole thread has been incredibly educational about worker classification rights. It's unfortunate that so many employers seem to be trying these retroactive reclassification tactics, but at least we know what our options are!

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Malik Thomas

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This whole situation is unfortunately becoming more common in healthcare, and you're absolutely right to push back. Your employer cannot legally reclassify you retroactively - the IRS determines worker classification based on the actual working relationship, not what becomes convenient for the employer months later. Since you specifically negotiated W-2 status as a condition of employment and have documentation of this agreement, you're in a strong position. The fact that you work scheduled shifts, use their equipment, and follow their protocols clearly indicates an employee relationship under IRS guidelines. If they somehow insist on 1099 status going forward (which would require a new agreement entirely), don't accept anything less than $95-100/hour. This accounts for the additional 7.65% employer portion of payroll taxes you'd now be responsible for, loss of unemployment and workers' comp protection, need for professional liability insurance, and the administrative burden of quarterly tax filings. Here's what I'd do: Send them a professional email stating you'll continue under the original W-2 agreement as negotiated and documented. If they persist, present them with the math showing what true equivalent compensation looks like. Include copies of your original employment discussions where you specifically requested W-2 status. Don't let them frame their policy confusion as your mistake to fix. You negotiated in good faith and they need to honor their commitments.

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This is really solid advice! I'm new to understanding worker classification issues, but this thread has been incredibly educational. It sounds like the key point is that you can't just change someone's employment status after the fact, especially when it was specifically negotiated upfront. The $95-100/hour calculation for equivalent 1099 compensation really puts things in perspective. I had no idea there were so many hidden costs beyond just the tax differences - things like losing unemployment protection and needing separate liability insurance. For someone in your situation who clearly documented the W-2 agreement from the beginning, it seems like you have a really strong case to push back. The fact that multiple people in this thread are dealing with similar situations from healthcare employers is concerning though. Makes me wonder if this is some kind of coordinated cost-cutting strategy. Thanks for laying out such a clear action plan. Having that documentation and being able to present the actual math should make it much harder for them to dismiss your position!

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with this exact situation - my brother loaned me money for a house purchase with a formal mortgage agreement, and we've both been confused about the tax implications. Reading through everyone's experiences, it's clear that the key is proper documentation on both sides. My brother doesn't need to issue me a 1098 since he's not in the lending business, but he absolutely needs to report the interest income I pay him. And I can still claim the mortgage interest deduction as long as our loan is properly secured against the property. I'm definitely going to implement the substitute statement approach that several people mentioned. Having matching year-end documentation for both of us seems like the smart way to handle this, even though it's not legally required. One thing I'm curious about - has anyone dealt with this situation where the interest rate changes during the year? We have an adjustable rate tied to prime, so the monthly interest amounts vary. I assume I just need to track the actual interest paid each month rather than using any kind of standard calculation? Also, for those who've been doing this for multiple years - do you find that tax software handles the mortgage interest deduction smoothly when you don't have an official 1098, or do you typically need to work with a tax preparer?

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Lucas Turner

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Great questions! For the adjustable rate situation, you're absolutely right - just track the actual interest paid each month. I had a similar setup with my sister where our rate adjusted quarterly, and I kept a simple spreadsheet with columns for payment date, total payment, principal amount, interest amount, and the current rate. This way you have a clear record of exactly what was paid as interest regardless of rate changes. As for tax software, I've had mixed experiences. TurboTax handled it fine when I manually entered the mortgage interest amount and property details, but it did prompt me several times asking for the 1098 form. I just kept clicking "I don't have this form" and it eventually let me proceed. H&R Block's software was similar. However, if your situation is more complex (like having multiple rate changes or if the loan structure is unusual), you might want to consult a tax preparer at least for the first year to make sure everything is set up correctly. Once you have the process down, the following years should be much more straightforward. The substitute statement approach really is a game-changer for keeping both sides organized!

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Grace Durand

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This has been such a valuable discussion! As someone who's worked in tax preparation for over a decade, I can confirm that private mortgages between family members are one of the most commonly misunderstood areas of tax law. The key takeaways here are spot-on: individual lenders aren't required to issue 1098 forms unless they're in the business of lending, but both parties still have tax obligations. The borrower can claim the mortgage interest deduction with proper documentation, and the lender must report interest income. One additional point I'd like to emphasize - make sure your loan agreement specifies that it's a mortgage secured by the property, not just a personal loan. The IRS looks at the substance of the transaction, not just what you call it. If there's no security interest properly recorded against the property, they may reclassify it as non-deductible personal loan interest. Also, keep in mind the imputed interest rules. If you're lending at below-market rates, the IRS may impute additional interest income to the lender and additional interest deduction to the borrower based on the Applicable Federal Rates (AFR). This is particularly important for larger loan amounts. The substitute statement approach mentioned by several commenters is excellent practice and shows good faith documentation efforts.

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Anna Kerber

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This professional perspective is incredibly valuable! The point about imputed interest rules is something I hadn't considered before. My parents gave me a really favorable rate (2% when market rates were around 7%), and our loan amount is pretty substantial at $180,000. Should I be worried about the IRS imputing additional interest? Also, when you mention that the loan needs to specify it's secured by the property - is this something that needs to be in the original loan documents, or can it be amended later? We did record a mortgage lien, but I'm not sure if our loan agreement explicitly states it's a "mortgage" versus just calling it a "loan agreement." Thank you for sharing your expertise - it's really helpful to get confirmation from someone with professional tax preparation experience!

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Myles Regis

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Thanks everyone for all the detailed responses! This has been super educational. I had no idea about the direct donation requirement or the itemization issue. Based on what I'm reading here, it sounds like I can't deduct the 1-800-GOT-JUNK pickup, but I'm definitely going to look into those charity pickup services for future donations. The "donation bunching" strategy that Max mentioned is really interesting too - maybe I should plan my donations more strategically. One follow-up question: if I have items that are too worn for charity donation but still have some value, is there any tax benefit at all? Or is it just a loss either way? I'm thinking about some older electronics and appliances that work fine but have cosmetic issues.

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For items that are too worn for charity donation, unfortunately there's generally no tax benefit. The IRS requires donated items to be in "good used condition or better" to claim any deduction. If charities won't accept the items due to excessive wear, that's usually a good indicator they don't meet the IRS standard either. However, you might consider selling those functional but cosmetically damaged electronics and appliances instead! Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, or eBay could help you recover some value. While you can't claim a tax deduction, at least you get cash instead of paying for removal. Just be honest about the cosmetic issues in your listings - many people are happy to buy functional items at a discount. Another option for electronics specifically is to check if your local Best Buy or other retailers have recycling programs. They often take old electronics for free, though again, no tax benefit.

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Sean Doyle

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Great question! Unfortunately, you cannot claim a tax deduction for items picked up by 1-800-GOT-JUNK, even if they eventually donate them to charity. The IRS requires that you donate directly to a qualified 501(c)(3) organization to claim any deduction - you can't use a middleman service. Here's what you need to know for future donations: - Donate directly to qualified charities like Goodwill, Salvation Army, or Habitat ReStore - Get proper documentation from the charity (written acknowledgment for donations over $250) - Items must be in "good used condition or better" - You can only deduct if you itemize deductions on Schedule A Since your furniture was in good condition, you might want to consider charity pickup services next time. Many legitimate charities offer free pickup and provide proper tax documentation. This way you'd get the same convenience as 1-800-GOT-JUNK but with the added benefit of a potential tax deduction. For your current situation, keep that receipt from 1-800-GOT-JUNK for your records, but unfortunately it won't help with your taxes.

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Kyle Wallace

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This is such a comprehensive summary - thank you! I'm new to this community but dealing with a similar situation. I had no idea about the middleman rule before reading this thread. Quick question: when you mention that items need to be in "good used condition or better," how strict is that requirement? I have some furniture that's functional but has minor pet hair embedded in the fabric. Would that disqualify it from donation, or is that considered normal wear and tear? I want to make sure I understand the standards before scheduling a charity pickup. Also, does anyone know if there's a difference in documentation requirements between different qualified charities? Like, does Goodwill have different forms than Salvation Army for the same donation value?

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