Another thing to try - if you have access to your IRS online account, check for any notices or letters they might have sent about the RIVO hold. Sometimes they'll post updates there that can give you more info about what they need to release your refund. Also, when you do get through to someone, ask specifically about Form 8379 (Injured Spouse Allocation) if you're married - sometimes RIVO holds are related to that and they can expedite the process if you qualify.

Had this happen to me last year - RIVO cases are such a pain! One thing that helped me was calling the IRS early in the morning (like 7-8am) and asking to speak to someone in the "refund department" specifically. When you mention the RIVO lead number, they should be able to pull up your case and give you a timeline. Also, if you filed electronically, check if your tax prep software has any tools to track refund status - sometimes they have backdoor access to more detailed info than the regular "Where's My Refund" tool.

These tax prep companies be playing musical chairs with banks every year i stg

Thanks for the info about First Century Bank! Does anyone know if they have the same deposit limits as Santa Barbara TPG did? I remember there being some cap on how much you could get early but can't remember the exact amount.

Those codes are actually pretty standard! Code 150 just means your return was processed and accepted into the system. Code 766 represents credits applied to your account (like withholdings or refundable credits), and 768 specifically shows the Earned Income Credit if you qualified for it. The fact that you're seeing these codes is actually a good sign - it means your return is in the system and being processed. What you really want to watch for is code 846, which will show your actual refund issue date. Until you see that, you're still in the processing queue. Two months does feel like forever, but unfortunately it's not uncommon right now. The IRS is dealing with a huge backlog. Keep checking your transcript weekly - once that 846 code appears with a date, you'll know exactly when to expect your refund. Hang in there! 🤞

Those codes are totally normal! 150 means your return was accepted and processed, 766 shows credits applied to your account (like tax withholdings), and 768 is the Earned Income Credit if you qualified. These are all good signs that your return is moving through the system. The waiting is brutal, I know! Two months feels like forever but it's unfortunately pretty typical right now with all the backlogs. The key code to watch for is 846 - that's when they actually issue your refund and you'll see the exact date. Keep checking your transcript weekly, and once you see that 846 code pop up, you'll know your refund is finally on its way! Don't lose hope - your return is definitely in the system and processing. 🤞

Just FYI - if you do end up filing 1040-X for the inventory error, expect it to take FOREVER to process. I filed an amended return last April for a similar issue and it took 9 months to get my refund. The IRS is insanely backlogged still.

I went through almost the exact same situation with my small eBay business last year! You're absolutely right to be concerned, but the good news is this is totally fixable. First, let me echo what Mateo said - when you overstate ending inventory, you're actually overstating your profit, which means you likely OVERPAID taxes rather than underpaid. The math works like this: higher ending inventory = lower cost of goods sold = higher reported profit = more taxes owed. For your situation with the $3,700 difference ($5,800 vs $2,100), I'd definitely recommend filing Form 1040-X to amend your 2021 return. With that size difference, you're probably looking at a decent refund. The process isn't too complicated - just recalculate your Schedule C with the correct ending inventory figure and file the amended return. A few tips from my experience: - Keep detailed documentation of how you determined the correct $2,100 value - Include a clear explanation with your 1040-X about the inventory valuation error - Going forward, stick with cost basis for inventory valuation - it's much simpler and more defensible than trying to estimate fair market value The IRS won't penalize you for an honest mistake that resulted in you overpaying. If anything, they owe YOU money! Just be prepared for the amended return to take several months to process.

This is such a helpful thread! I had the exact same misconception about tax deductions. I was looking at a $500 membership at our local contemporary art museum and thought I'd get the full amount back too. After reading everyone's explanations, I realize I need to: 1) Check if the museum membership benefits reduce the deductible amount 2) See if my total deductions would exceed the standard deduction to make itemizing worth it 3) Calculate the actual tax savings based on my bracket (probably around 12%) It sounds like even though I won't get the full amount back, supporting the museum while getting some tax benefit is still worthwhile. Plus I genuinely want the membership perks anyway - the tax deduction is just a nice bonus. Thanks everyone for clearing up the confusion between deductions and credits! This community is so helpful for understanding these tax concepts.

This thread has been incredibly educational! I'm a tax preparer and I see this exact confusion about deductions vs. credits all the time, especially with charitable donations like museum memberships. One thing I'd add that might be helpful - if you're planning to make charitable donations anyway (whether to museums, churches, other nonprofits), it's worth tracking all of them throughout the year. Sometimes people are surprised to find that their total charitable giving, combined with mortgage interest and state taxes, does push them over the standard deduction threshold. Also, for those considering museum memberships specifically, some museums offer different membership levels where the lower tiers might be fully deductible (if they don't include tangible benefits), while premium memberships with lots of perks have reduced deductible amounts. It's worth comparing the actual tax benefit across different membership levels, not just the sticker price. And remember - the real value is supporting an organization you care about. The tax deduction is just a nice bonus that makes your charitable giving slightly less expensive!