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I've seen dozens of these cases resolve much faster than the worst-case scenarios. Reviews without document requests typically fall into three categories: 1) Identity verification (2-3 weeks), 2) Income verification against employer records (3-5 weeks), or 3) Credit eligibility verification (4-8 weeks). Compared to audit situations that can take 6+ months, yours is likely in a much better position. One client of mine had almost identical circumstances and received their refund in 32 days from the review start date.
This breakdown of the three review categories is really helpful! Do you know if there's any way to determine which category your return falls into based on the transcript codes or other indicators? I'm trying to figure out if my situation is closer to the 2-3 week timeline or the longer 4-8 week range.
@Zara Shah Great question! From what I ve'observed, you can get clues from your transcript codes and timing. Identity verification reviews the (fastest ones usually) show up within days of e-filing and often have TC 971 notices. Income verification typically appears 1-2 weeks after filing when the IRS cross-references with W-2/1099 data. Credit verification reviews often happen with returns claiming EITC, CTC, or education credits and may show additional TC codes in the 700s range. Check when your review status first appeared and what credits you claimed - that should give you a better sense of which category you re'in!
I went through this exact same situation two months ago - "under review" with no additional information needed for medical expense planning too. Mine took exactly 47 days to process, which was actually pretty close to the 45-day average mentioned by others here. What helped me was setting up daily transcript monitoring and documenting the timeline for my medical providers. I was able to show them the IRS review status and most were willing to work with me on payment schedules. The waiting is stressful, but the "no additional info needed" language is genuinely a good sign that it's just routine verification. Keep checking for that TC 571 code - when it appears, your refund should follow within days.
One thing that might help clarify the SEP IRA vs Solo 401k question - you can actually convert your existing SEP IRA to a Solo 401k if your Solo 401k plan allows for rollovers. This could be beneficial since you'd get the employee contribution option ($22,500) that you don't have with the SEP IRA. However, be careful about the timing if you've already made SEP IRA contributions for this tax year. You can't make employer contributions to both plans for the same tax year from the same business, even if you do a rollover partway through. Also worth noting - with your S Corp structure and $145k salary, your total contribution space to a Solo 401k would be around $58,750 ($22,500 employee + ~$36,250 employer at 25% of compensation). This might actually be less than the $66k you were planning for the SEP IRA, so run the numbers carefully before switching.
This is really helpful analysis! I hadn't considered that the Solo 401k might actually give me less total contribution space than the SEP IRA in my specific situation. With my $145k salary, you're right that 25% would only be about $36,250 in employer contributions, plus the $22,500 employee contribution = $58,750 total. That's actually $7,250 less than my planned $66k SEP IRA contribution. Quick question though - is the 25% limit calculated on gross salary or net after payroll taxes? And would it make sense to potentially increase my S Corp salary to expand the contribution room, or would the additional payroll taxes eat into the benefit?
Great question about the calculation! The 25% employer contribution limit for S Corp owners is calculated on your W-2 wages (gross salary before payroll taxes), so your $145k salary would indeed allow for about $36,250 in employer contributions. Regarding increasing your salary - this is actually a common strategy but requires careful analysis. Yes, a higher salary would increase your Solo 401k contribution room, but you'd pay additional payroll taxes (Social Security, Medicare, unemployment) on the extra salary. Since you're already above the Social Security wage base for 2023 ($160,200), you'd mainly be looking at the 2.9% Medicare tax (plus 0.9% additional Medicare tax if applicable). The math often works out favorably, but you'd want to model it precisely. For example, if you increased your salary to $200k, you'd have ~$50k in employer contribution room plus the $22.5k employee contribution = $72.5k total. The extra payroll taxes on the additional $55k salary would be roughly $1,600-2,100, so you'd net significantly more retirement savings. Just make sure your salary remains "reasonable" for your role and industry - the IRS scrutinizes S Corp owner salaries closely.
One additional consideration that hasn't been mentioned - if you're planning to hire employees in the future (beyond just your wife), a SEP IRA requires you to contribute equally for all eligible employees as a percentage of their compensation. With a Solo 401k, you lose eligibility once you have employees who aren't your spouse. Given your business growth trajectory ($850k-$1.2M revenue), you might want to think about whether you'll need to hire W-2 employees down the road. If so, you might want to consider other options like a traditional 401k plan that can accommodate employees, or carefully structure any future hires as contractors rather than employees. Also, make sure you're considering state tax implications. Some states don't follow federal rules exactly for retirement plan deductions, so the optimal choice might vary depending on where your S Corp is based. The timing issue others mentioned is crucial - if you're already late in 2023, the SEP IRA's flexibility to be established until your filing deadline might outweigh the Solo 401k's higher contribution potential, especially if you can't increase your salary before year-end.
This is such an important point about future employee considerations! I'm actually in a similar growth phase with my consulting firm and hadn't fully thought through how adding employees would impact my retirement plan options. The SEP IRA equal contribution requirement could get really expensive if I hire several employees at decent salaries. But losing Solo 401k eligibility once I have non-spouse employees is also a big limitation. Do you know if there's a threshold for when it makes sense to switch to a traditional 401k plan? I'm assuming the administrative costs are higher, but it might be worth it for the flexibility as the business grows. Also curious about the contractor vs employee structuring - I know the IRS is pretty strict about worker classification, so that seems like a risky strategy unless the roles genuinely qualify as contractor work. Thanks for bringing up the state tax angle too - I'm in California so definitely need to research how they handle retirement plan deductions differently from federal rules.
Has anyone installed a dedicated charging station with a separate utility meter specifically for their business EV? My electrician suggested this as the cleanest solution for separating business and personal use.
I did this last year! Cost about $600 for the dedicated meter plus installation, but it's been worth it. I have a separate electric bill just for my EV charging, and since I use the car 80% for business, I deduct 80% of that bill. Super clean documentation if you ever get audited.
Great question! I'm in a similar boat with my Nissan Leaf that I use for my freelance photography business. After researching this extensively, here's what I've learned: The IRS allows you to deduct business vehicle expenses using either the standard mileage rate OR actual expenses, but not both. For EVs, the actual expense method can sometimes be more beneficial since our "fuel" costs are so low. For home charging, you'll need to calculate the actual kWh used for business driving. Most EVs display this info on the dashboard or through their apps. Multiply your business kWh by your electricity rate, then multiply by your business use percentage. One tip that's been super helpful: I created a simple spreadsheet that tracks my odometer readings, business vs personal miles, and charging sessions. Takes maybe 2 minutes per day but gives me rock-solid documentation. The key is consistency - whatever method you choose, stick with it for the entire tax year and keep detailed records. Your future self (and potentially the IRS) will thank you!
Thanks Matthew, this is really helpful! I'm curious about the spreadsheet approach you mentioned - do you track charging sessions by date and time, or just the total kWh for each charging period? Also, for the business use percentage, are you calculating that monthly or just using an annual average? I want to make sure I'm setting up my tracking system correctly from the start.
I'm dealing with this exact situation right now and the uncertainty is really stressful! Based on what everyone's shared, it sounds like the timeline is roughly 3-4 weeks from acceptance to when the offset actually happens, with another week or so for the receiving agency to process it. What I'm gathering is that the Treasury Offset Program number (800-304-3107) that @Dmitri Volkov mentioned might be the best way to get real-time information instead of waiting for letters that arrive after the fact. Has anyone else had success calling that number recently? I'm also on a fixed income and really need to know what's happening with my refund so I can plan my monthly budget accordingly. The fact that loan servicers don't always apply the offset correctly (like what happened to @Gabrielle Dubois) is another thing I hadn't considered. I'll definitely need to keep an eye on that too. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - it's helping me set realistic expectations for the timeline!
I called the Treasury Offset Program number just last week and it was incredibly helpful! The automated system walked me through entering my SSN and immediately told me that yes, I had an offset pending for student loans in the amount of $2,847. What was really useful is that it gave me the exact date the offset was processed (March 3rd) even though my loan servicer still hadn't updated their records yet. The whole call took maybe 3 minutes total. Definitely recommend calling them first before trying to reach the IRS - much faster and more specific information about your actual situation.
Thank you everyone for sharing your experiences! This is exactly the kind of detailed timeline information I was looking for. It sounds like I should expect the offset to happen sometime in the next week or two since my return was accepted 3 weeks ago. @Dmitri Volkov and @Miguel Silva - I'm definitely going to call that Treasury Offset Program number (800-304-3107) tomorrow morning. It sounds like that's the fastest way to get concrete information instead of playing the waiting game with all these different systems that don't talk to each other properly. @Gabrielle Dubois - Your point about loan servicers not applying the payment correctly is something I hadn't thought about! I'll make sure to check how they allocate the offset payment once it goes through. Since I'm on a fixed retirement income, every dollar matters and I want to make sure it's applied to reduce my highest interest debt first. This whole process definitely seems more complicated than it needs to be, but at least now I have realistic expectations and know exactly what steps to take to track everything. Really appreciate this community for sharing these real-world experiences!
Diego Flores
Anyone know if replacing a roof counts for any tax benefits? Mine got damaged in a storm last year but insurance only covered part of it. I ended up paying about $8k out of pocket for a better quality roof than what insurance would cover.
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Javier Hernandez
ā¢A new roof typically isn't tax deductible immediately, but it does increase your home's cost basis (the amount you subtract from the sales price to determine capital gains when you sell). So keep those receipts! However, if your new roof has certain energy-efficient features like qualifying metal or asphalt roofs with pigmented coatings or cooling granules designed to reduce heat gain, you might be eligible for an energy efficiency tax credit. Check if your roofing materials came with a Manufacturer's Certification Statement confirming they meet the requirements.
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Daryl Bright
Great question about home improvements! As others have mentioned, most renovations to your primary residence aren't immediately deductible, but there are some important exceptions and future benefits to keep in mind. Since you're spending $45k on kitchen and bathroom renovations, definitely keep every receipt and contract. While you can't deduct these costs now, they'll increase your home's "adjusted basis" which reduces capital gains tax when you eventually sell. For immediate tax benefits, look into: - Energy efficiency credits if you're installing Energy Star appliances, efficient windows, or insulation - Any accessibility modifications if medically necessary (with proper documentation) One tip: if you're installing new appliances, check if they qualify for energy efficiency rebates through your utility company or state programs - these aren't tax deductions but can still put money back in your pocket. The key is proper documentation. Create a file with all receipts, permits, and contractor agreements. Even though most of your $45k won't be immediately deductible, having organized records will save you headaches (and potentially thousands in taxes) when you sell your home down the road.
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Santiago Diaz
ā¢This is really helpful advice! I'm new to homeownership and had no idea about the "adjusted basis" concept. Quick question - do you need to get professional appraisals for major improvements like kitchen renovations to prove the value increase, or are the receipts and contracts sufficient documentation for the IRS? I want to make sure I'm keeping the right paperwork for when we eventually sell in maybe 5-10 years.
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