Filed with H&R Block on February 1st and received my refund on February 28th - exactly 27 days. My return included both W-2 income and some 1099 contractor work, plus I claimed the Child Tax Credit. What helped me track progress was checking my transcript every few days rather than relying on WMR. I saw the 971 notice code appear around day 18, then the 846 refund code showed up on day 25. The actual deposit hit my account 3 days after the 846 date. From reading everyone's experiences here, it's clear that H&R Block isn't the problem - the IRS is just processing everything more slowly this year, especially returns with any complexity beyond basic W-2 filings. For those still waiting, the transcript really is your best source of real information.

Filed with H&R Block on January 22nd and just got my refund this morning (March 7th) - took 44 days total! My return had W-2 income plus some investment dividends and I claimed both CTC and EITC. The transcript was definitely the key to staying informed - WMR stayed stuck on "processing" the entire time while my transcript showed actual progress. I saw the 971 code around day 32, then 846 appeared on day 41, with deposit hitting 3 days later. For anyone with credits still waiting, it seems like the IRS is finally working through the more complex returns now. The wait was frustrating but at least the money eventually came through. Definitely not an H&R Block issue based on what I'm seeing here - just a really slow year for IRS processing across the board.

Has anyone considered the gift angle here? If you originally bought the tickets as gifts for your friends but then resold them with their permission, couldn't you argue that they were partial owners of the tickets? That might change how the taxes work.

Quick clarification for anyone reading this thread - make sure you understand the difference between reporting this as capital gains vs. ordinary income. Since these were personal-use tickets (not purchased for business/investment), the IRS typically treats occasional resales as capital gains on Schedule D. However, if you're doing this regularly or bought the tickets with the intent to resell for profit, it becomes ordinary business income on Schedule C. The tax treatment can be quite different depending on which category applies to your situation. Also, keep in mind that even though you're splitting the tax burden with your friends informally, legally you're still responsible for the full tax liability since the income is reported under your SSN. Make sure that agreement with your friends is rock solid in case anything goes sideways!

Thank you all so much for this incredibly helpful discussion! As the original poster, I can't tell you how much clarity this has brought to my W4 confusion. The key insight that finally made it click was understanding that the W4 is forward-looking instructions for my current employer's payroll system, not a historical record of my employment. Since I only have one job now, I definitely won't be checking the multiple jobs box. I love the "snapshot" analogy that @Jessica Suarez mentioned - that's exactly how I'm going to think about W4s going forward. And @Carmen Ruiz, your HR perspective really sealed the deal for me in terms of understanding what employers actually need to know for withholding purposes. I'm planning to follow the two-step approach several people recommended: fill out my W4 based on my current single-job situation, then use the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator once I get my 2024 W-2s to double-check everything. It sounds like my unemployment gap might actually work in my favor since my 2024 income was lower overall. This community is amazing - you all turned what felt like an impossible tax puzzle into something completely manageable. I feel so much more confident about getting my withholding right for 2025. Thanks again everyone!

This thread has been absolutely fantastic! As someone who works in tax preparation, I see this exact confusion come up constantly during tax season. The W4 multiple jobs section is definitely one of the most misunderstood parts of the form. Just to reinforce what everyone has said - the multiple jobs worksheet is purely about concurrent employment, not sequential jobs throughout the year. Your current employer only needs to know about current income sources to calculate proper withholding going forward. Since you only have one job now, skip that section entirely. The IRS Tax Withholding Estimator is definitely your best bet for fine-tuning your withholding once you get your 2024 W-2s. Given your unemployment gap, your 2024 income was likely in a lower tax bracket overall, which could actually help your situation. One additional tip: if you're still nervous about getting it right, you can always submit a new W4 later in the year if the estimator suggests adjustments. Employers are required to implement W4 changes for future paychecks, so you're not locked into your initial submission.

I've been through this exact transition and understand the stress! I switched from TurboTax to FreeTaxUSA two years ago and had the same panic about business codes not matching up. Here's what I learned: The IRS publishes the official NAICS codes, but tax software companies often group or rename them for simplicity. What matters most is that you're consistently reporting your income and expenses accurately - the specific code number is mainly used for their statistical analysis. For your eBay activities, look for codes like "Internet Retail," "Online Sales," or "Electronic Commerce" in FreeTaxUSA. These should be functionally equivalent to your old "Electronic Shopping and Mail Order Houses" code. My recommendation is to pick the closest matches available in FreeTaxUSA and keep a simple note in your tax files explaining the switch in software. I've had zero issues with this approach over multiple filing seasons. The key is being consistent going forward with whatever codes you choose in your new system. Don't let this derail your cost-saving switch - FreeTaxUSA is great once you get past this initial hurdle!

I completely understand your frustration with this business code situation! I went through the exact same thing when I switched from TurboTax to FreeTaxUSA last year. It's actually much more common than you'd think. The reality is that different tax software platforms use their own simplified versions of NAICS codes to make things easier for users. FreeTaxUSA tends to group codes into broader categories, which is why you can't find that specific "454110 - Electronic Shopping and Mail Order Houses" code. For your eBay selling, look for something like "Online Retail Sales," "Internet Sales," or "E-commerce" in FreeTaxUSA's dropdown - these should be the equivalent options. The IRS understands that people switch tax software and use different code systems, so consistency between years isn't as critical as accurately reporting your income and expenses. I'd recommend documenting which new codes you choose in FreeTaxUSA and keeping that record with your tax files. That way if there's ever a question down the line, you can show you selected the best available option in your tax software. The savings you'll get from switching to FreeTaxUSA are definitely worth this minor inconvenience!

Another option to consider is using the charging tracking features that come built into many EV chargers now. I have a ChargePoint Home Flex that tracks all my charging sessions automatically in their app, including kWh used and time of charging. My tax guy said this is perfectly acceptable documentation as long as I export the data regularly and note which sessions were for my business vehicle. The app lets me categorize charges and export detailed reports that show exactly how much electricity was used. Might be easier than installing a separate meter if you're planning to get a new charger anyway.

This is a great question and you're definitely on the right track with your thinking! As someone who's been navigating business vehicle expenses for a few years now, I can confirm that tracking your home EV charging costs is absolutely legitimate when you're using the actual expense method. The kWh meter approach you're considering is spot-on. I'd recommend getting one that plugs in between your charger and the wall outlet - they're pretty affordable (usually $20-40) and give you precise readings. Just make sure it can handle the amperage of your charger. For your log, I'd suggest tracking: - Date and time of each charge - kWh used (from your meter) - Odometer reading or trip purpose - Your electric rate at time of charge (some utilities have variable rates) One thing to consider is whether your utility company offers special EV charging rates or time-of-use pricing. Mine has cheaper overnight rates, so I charge during those hours and note the lower rate in my log for more accurate deductions. The documentation you're planning should definitely satisfy IRS requirements, especially since it's more detailed than what many businesses maintain for other utilities. Keep those records organized with your other vehicle expense documentation and you'll be all set!