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I went through a similar situation with a non-recourse loan on a rental property in Nevada last year. One thing that really caught me off guard was the timing of when you have to report this income. Even though my lender canceled the debt in December, I didn't receive the 1099-C until late January, which made tax planning really difficult. The key thing I learned is that you need to determine your "adjusted basis" in the property at the time of debt cancellation, not just the fair market value. This includes your original purchase price, plus improvements, minus any depreciation you've claimed over the years. The difference between this adjusted basis and the canceled debt amount is what you'll potentially owe taxes on. Also, make sure you keep detailed records of everything - loan documents, property appraisals, improvement receipts, and depreciation schedules. The IRS may want to see all of this if they question your calculations. I'd strongly recommend getting professional help before filing, especially since you mentioned the loan was for $187,000. The tax implications can be substantial and there might be exclusions or strategies you're not aware of.
This is really helpful, especially the point about timing and the 1099-C arriving so late in January. I'm dealing with a similar situation right now and hadn't thought about how that could complicate tax planning. Your advice about calculating the adjusted basis is spot on - I made the mistake initially of just looking at current market value versus loan amount, but you're absolutely right that depreciation claimed over the years significantly affects the calculation. One question though - did you end up having to pay estimated taxes for the following year since this created a large tax liability? I'm wondering if I should be setting aside money now or if there are ways to spread out the tax impact. Also, did Nevada follow the federal treatment pretty closely, or did you run into state-specific complications like some others have mentioned? The record-keeping advice is gold - I'm going to start gathering all my documentation now rather than scrambling at tax time. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Nevada was pretty straightforward - they generally follow federal tax treatment for debt cancellation, so I didn't face the state-specific complications that some people mention with other states. That made things much simpler since I only had to worry about getting the federal calculation right. Regarding estimated taxes, yes, I definitely had to make quarterly payments the following year. The debt cancellation created a significant one-time income spike that put me in a higher tax bracket, so I ended up owing quite a bit more than my usual withholdings would cover. I'd strongly recommend calculating your estimated liability now and either making estimated payments or asking your employer to increase withholdings if you have W-2 income. One strategy my CPA suggested was looking into installment payment agreements with the IRS if the tax bill ends up being more than you can handle at once. They're pretty reasonable about setting up payment plans, especially for one-time situations like debt forgiveness. Just don't ignore it - the penalties and interest add up quickly if you don't address it proactively. Also, double-check if you qualify for any of the exclusions others have mentioned, particularly the insolvency exclusion. Even if you don't think you qualify, it's worth having a professional review your complete financial picture at the time of debt cancellation.
This is such a complex area of tax law! I went through something similar with a commercial property loan that was partially forgiven. One thing I'd add to all the excellent advice here is to make sure you understand the difference between "acquisition indebtedness" and "development indebtedness" if your original loan had components of both. In my case, part of the loan was for purchasing the property and part was for improvements I made. The tax treatment can vary depending on how these different portions are handled when the debt is canceled. Also, if you've been claiming any investment tax credits related to the property (like energy efficiency credits), the debt cancellation might trigger recapture of those credits too. Given the $187K amount involved, I'd really recommend getting a second opinion from a tax professional who specializes in real estate transactions, even if it costs a few hundred dollars upfront. The potential tax savings from proper planning could be substantial. Document everything now while it's fresh in your memory - you'll thank yourself later when you're trying to reconstruct the timeline for your tax preparer.
This is really valuable insight about the distinction between acquisition and development indebtedness - I hadn't considered that angle at all! That's exactly the kind of nuance that could make a huge difference in the final tax calculation. Your point about investment tax credits potentially being recaptured is particularly concerning. I don't think I claimed any energy efficiency credits, but I did take some depreciation deductions that might be affected. The complexity just keeps growing! I'm definitely leaning toward getting that professional second opinion you mentioned. Even though it's an upfront cost, you're absolutely right that with $187K involved, the potential savings from proper planning could far outweigh the consultation fees. Plus, having someone who specializes in real estate transactions review the situation could uncover strategies or exclusions that a general tax preparer might miss. Thanks for the reminder about documenting everything now - I'm already starting to forget some of the smaller details from when this all started, and I can see how that could become a real problem when trying to reconstruct everything later. Going to start putting together a comprehensive timeline and gathering all related paperwork this week.
Does anyone know if books count toward the Lifetime Learning Credit? My school doesn't include them as required fees but I had to buy them for my classes.
Yes, books can count toward your Lifetime Learning Credit if they're required for the course! Unlike the American Opportunity Credit, the LLC is a bit more restrictive - the books must be required and purchased directly from the school as a condition of enrollment or attendance. If you bought them elsewhere (like Amazon), they might not qualify even if required by the professor.
Actually the previous reply is mixing up AOTC and LLC rules. For American Opportunity Credit, books DON'T have to be purchased from the institution. For Lifetime Learning Credit, the rules are stricter - books generally only count if required and paid directly to the school as part of enrollment.
Just wanted to chime in as someone who went through this exact same confusion last year! The $48 you're seeing for the Lifetime Learning Credit is likely due to income phase-out rules that others have mentioned, but here's something else to check: make sure you're only including qualified expenses. From your post, you mentioned $25,670 in "total qualified expenses" - that seems quite high for tuition and fees alone. If you accidentally included things like room, board, transportation, or living expenses (which don't qualify), that could throw off your calculations and make the tax software behave weirdly. Also, the reason the American Opportunity Credit is showing $1,325 versus the LLC's $48 is because the AOTC has different (often more generous) income phase-out ranges and calculation methods. The software is probably detecting that you qualify for more money with the AOTC based on your specific income level and student status. I'd double-check what expenses you included and maybe try one of the tools others mentioned to get a clearer breakdown of why there's such a big difference!
This is really helpful advice! I'm new here but dealing with a similar situation. The $25,670 in expenses does seem really high for just tuition and fees - that's what caught my attention too. @Harold Oh - it might be worth going through your expenses line by line to see what you actually included. When I was doing my taxes, I almost made the same mistake of including my meal plan and dorm costs thinking they were education "expenses. The" income phase-out explanation makes a lot of sense for why there s'such a huge difference between the two credits. It sounds like the tax software is doing you a favor by recommending the American Opportunity Credit!
There's a simple way to check if an extension was actually filed. Call the IRS at the Practitioner Priority Line (1-866-860-4259) and ask for a "tax account transcript" for the tax year in question. The transcript will show exactly when your return was received and if an extension was filed. This is official IRS data that can't be manipulated by your accountant. You can also request it online through the IRS website if you create an account. The transcript will show every transaction with date stamps. If your accountant really filed an extension, it will appear with code "460" on your account transcript.
This is true but I'd add that the IRS account transcript uses transaction codes that can be confusing. Code 460 is for extensions, and Code 971 would show up if an abatement request was received. OP should also look for Code 166 which indicates penalties were assessed for late filing. The beauty of the transcript is it's chronological and each entry has an official date stamp that can't be falsified.
I'm really sorry you're going through this - it's such a violation of trust when a professional you rely on isn't honest with you. Based on everything you've described, I agree with the other commenters that your accountant appears to be lying. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet: you should document everything immediately while it's still fresh. Write down all the dates your accountant told you things were filed, save every email and text message, and keep copies of any documents he provided (even the suspicious ones). This documentation will be crucial if you decide to pursue malpractice claims or file complaints with regulatory bodies. Also, since you mentioned this is affecting both federal and state taxes, make sure you're addressing both separately. State tax authorities often have their own penalty abatement programs, and the process might be different from the federal IRS abatement. The $13,000 in penalties is substantial enough that you might want to consult with a tax attorney who specializes in penalty abatement cases. Many offer free consultations and can quickly assess whether you have grounds for both penalty relief and potential recovery from your accountant's errors or omissions insurance. Don't let this drag on any longer - every day those collection notices get more serious, and your options may become more limited.
This is excellent advice about documenting everything. I'd also suggest taking screenshots of any online portals or software your accountant may have shown you, even if they seemed legitimate at the time. Sometimes dishonest preparers will create fake "submission confirmations" or modify legitimate software interfaces to make it look like filings went through when they didn't. Another red flag I noticed from your original post - the fact that your accountant "completely ghosted" you during tax season and only resurfaced on April 15th is extremely unprofessional. Legitimate tax professionals don't disappear during their busiest time of year, especially when clients are depending on them for timely filings. Given the serious financial impact here, I'd definitely recommend consulting with a tax attorney as Ava suggested. Many states also have victim compensation funds for clients harmed by professional misconduct, and you may be able to recover some of your penalty costs if you can prove negligence or fraud.
I work in payroll administration and can confirm that Fed MWT EE is indeed Federal Withholding Tax - Employee portion. This is your federal income tax being withheld based on your W-4 selections. One thing I'd add that others haven't mentioned - if you recently changed your filing status (got married, divorced, had kids, etc.) or your income changed significantly, you might want to review your W-4. A lot of people set it once when they're hired and never look at it again, which can lead to owing money or getting huge refunds. Also, don't feel bad about your HR being unhelpful - unfortunately that's pretty common. Most HR departments handle benefits and policies but aren't trained on the nitty-gritty tax details. The payroll department (if separate) usually knows more about deduction specifics, but even they sometimes just follow whatever the payroll software spits out without fully understanding it.
Thank you so much for the insider perspective! It's really reassuring to hear from someone who actually works in payroll. I think you're absolutely right about the W-4 thing - I set mine up when I got hired 3 years ago and haven't touched it since. My situation has definitely changed (got married last year) so I should probably update it. It's also good to know that even HR departments aren't expected to be tax experts. I was feeling pretty frustrated with mine but I guess it makes sense that they'd focus more on benefits and company policies rather than the technical tax stuff. Do you happen to know if there's a good rule of thumb for how often people should review their W-4, or is it really just when major life changes happen?
Just wanted to chime in as someone who was in your exact situation a few months ago! The whole paycheck deduction alphabet soup is so confusing when you're trying to figure out where your money is going. Fed MWT EE is definitely your federal income tax withholding (the "MWT" stands for "withholding tax" and "EE" means employee portion). What helped me understand my paystub better was actually requesting a detailed breakdown from payroll - even though your HR wasn't helpful, sometimes the actual payroll processor (like ADP or Paychex) can provide a legend that explains all their specific abbreviations. Also, since you mentioned being confused about the Medicare/FICA thing - I had the same question! Turns out FICA is like an umbrella term for Social Security AND Medicare taxes combined. Some paystubs show them separately (like your "FED MED EE" for just the Medicare part) while others lump them together under "FICA." You're definitely not paying twice - it's just different ways of displaying the breakdown. One thing that really helped me was keeping track of these deductions for a few pay periods to see the patterns. Once you understand what each abbreviation means, it becomes way easier to spot if something looks off or if your withholdings need adjusting.
This is such great advice! I never thought about requesting a detailed breakdown from the actual payroll processor. I've been assuming that what shows up on my paystub is all the information I can get, but you're right that companies like ADP probably have more detailed explanations available. The idea of tracking deductions over several pay periods is really smart too - I bet that would help me spot any inconsistencies or changes that I might not notice otherwise. Plus it would probably make me feel more in control of my finances instead of just getting my paycheck and hoping everything looks right. Thanks for sharing your experience with the FICA/Medicare confusion - it's nice to know I'm not the only one who found that distinction confusing! The umbrella term explanation makes perfect sense now.
Oliver Becker
I went through this exact same confusion last year! After reading through all these comments, I want to add that if you're still unsure about your specific situation, you can also check your final paystub from December. It should show year-to-date totals for various deductions including health insurance premiums. Compare what's shown on your paystub for health insurance deductions with what's in Box 14 of your W-2. If they match, then your employer is correctly reporting your pre-tax premium contributions in Box 14. This is totally normal and legitimate - you're not getting "screwed over" as someone mentioned earlier. The key thing to remember is that pre-tax health insurance premiums actually SAVE you money on taxes because they reduce your taxable income. So whether it's in Box 12 or Box 14, as long as those premiums were deducted pre-tax from your paycheck, you're benefiting tax-wise.
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Madison Allen
ā¢This is such helpful advice! I never thought to check my December paystub against my W-2. I just pulled mine up and you're absolutely right - my health insurance deductions on the paystub match exactly what's in Box 14. It's actually reassuring to see that everything lines up properly. I think what confused me initially was not understanding that Box 14 can be used for legitimate reporting purposes, not just employer mistakes. After reading all these explanations, I feel much better about my situation. Thanks for the practical tip about cross-referencing the paystub!
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StarStrider
This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm a CPA and want to emphasize a few key points for anyone still confused about Box 14 reporting: 1. Box 14 is NOT an error box - it's specifically designed for additional information that doesn't have a dedicated spot elsewhere on the W-2. 2. Health insurance premiums in Box 14 typically indicate they were deducted pre-tax from your paycheck, which actually BENEFITS you by reducing your taxable income. 3. The location of the reporting (Box 12 vs Box 14) doesn't change your tax liability. What matters is whether the premiums were deducted pre-tax or post-tax. 4. If you want to verify everything is correct, compare your Box 1 wages (federal taxable income) with your gross pay from your final paystub. The difference should include your pre-tax deductions like health insurance. For the original poster - your employer is likely doing everything correctly. Box 14 reporting for insurance premiums is very common and completely legitimate. You're not losing money on your taxes because of this reporting method.
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Angelica Smith
ā¢Thank you so much for this professional clarification! As someone who's been stressing about this for weeks, it's incredibly reassuring to hear from a CPA that Box 14 reporting is legitimate and common. I followed your advice about comparing Box 1 wages to my gross pay, and you're absolutely right - the difference matches my pre-tax deductions including health insurance. It's amazing how much anxiety I could have saved myself if I had understood this from the beginning. One follow-up question: if I notice a discrepancy between my Box 1 wages and what I calculate should be my taxable income after pre-tax deductions, what would be the best way to address that with my employer? Should I go to HR or payroll directly?
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