Just to add another perspective - I'm an admin assistant who processes new hire paperwork. The W4 multiple jobs section is definitely about CURRENT multiple jobs. We always tell new employees to only check that box if they have another job right now or if their spouse works. The confusion comes because the 2020 version of the W4 is so different from the old one. On the old W4, you'd list your "allowances" which kinda accounted for your overall tax situation. The new form is more specific about current income sources.

As someone who's been through multiple job changes, I can confirm what others have said - the W4 multiple jobs section is only about your current employment situation. Since you only have one job now, don't check that box. However, I'd suggest running the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator on their website (irs.gov) to double-check your withholding. Since you had two different employers in 2024, your withholding from each job might not have been perfectly calibrated for your total annual income. The estimator will help you figure out if you need to adjust your withholding for 2025 to avoid owing or getting a huge refund. Also, keep in mind that if you do end up owing taxes when you file for 2024, you might want to have a little extra withheld from your 2025 paychecks to cover any potential underpayment. The estimator will help with this calculation too.

I actually called FreeTaxUSA customer support about this exact issue. They told me they use a simplified version of the NAICS codes to make it easier for average users. The rep said to just pick the closest match and not worry about it being different from previous years.

I went through this exact same situation last year when I switched from H&R Block to FreeTaxUSA! I was panicking because I couldn't find my usual codes for my Etsy shop and freelance writing work. After doing some research, I learned that different tax software companies often use their own simplified versions of NAICS codes to make things more user-friendly. What I ended up doing was creating a simple spreadsheet mapping my old codes to the new ones I selected in FreeTaxUSA, along with a brief explanation of why I chose each one. For your eBay business, look for something like "Internet Sales" or "Online Retail" - that should be the closest equivalent to your Electronic Shopping code. The IRS really doesn't scrutinize these codes as much as we think they do. They're more focused on whether your income and expenses are reported accurately. I've been using the "new" codes for two years now with zero issues. My advice is to pick the closest matches available, document your choices, and move forward with confidence!

I've been deducting my home EV charging costs for my work truck for 2 years now. My setup is a bit different - I installed a separate breaker and dedicated circuit just for the EV charger, with its own meter. My accountant said this creates the cleanest possible documentation path. Total cost was about $600 for the electrical work plus the meter, but it's been worth every penny for the peace of mind. My business is somewhat audit-prone (construction industry), and having this level of documentation has been great. The separate meter makes it super clear exactly how much electricity is being used exclusively for business purposes.

Another option to consider is using the charging tracking features that come built into many EV chargers now. I have a ChargePoint Home Flex that tracks all my charging sessions automatically in their app, including kWh used and time of charging. My tax guy said this is perfectly acceptable documentation as long as I export the data regularly and note which sessions were for my business vehicle. The app lets me categorize charges and export detailed reports that show exactly how much electricity was used. Might be easier than installing a separate meter if you're planning to get a new charger anyway.

Quick question - is anyone else's 1098-T always wrong? Mine shows less tuition than I actually paid because of when the payments posted. Do I use the numbers on the form or what I actually paid? My tax software always flags it as a discrepancy.

I'm a tax preparer and see this confusion every year. The 1098-T is definitely legitimate and required - your university has to file this with the IRS whether you provide your SSN or not, but without it, you'll face that $50 penalty. Here's what's important for your situation: as a graduate TA with a scholarship, you actually have THREE different tax considerations: 1. Your TA income (reported on W-2) - fully taxable as wages 2. Scholarship amount covering tuition/fees - generally not taxable 3. Any scholarship amount covering room/board/living expenses - this IS taxable income The 1098-T helps sort this out. Box 5 shows your total scholarships/grants, and you'll need to determine how much of that exceeded your qualified education expenses (tuition, mandatory fees, required books/supplies). Even with a full scholarship, you might still qualify for education credits if you paid for books, supplies, or equipment out of pocket. The American Opportunity Credit can be worth up to $2,500, and the Lifetime Learning Credit up to $2,000. Don't miss that January 21 deadline - provide your SSN through your student portal's secure system, not email. You'll need this form to file your taxes correctly.

One important thing nobody mentioned yet - if your state amendment is due to changes on your federal return, many states waive any late filing penalties as long as you file within their deadline after the federal amendment (usually 60-90 days). But you MUST file the state amendment - they won't just automatically know!

I learned the hard way that states dont automatically know about federal amendments. I had to pay penalty + interest in NY because I didnt file a state amendment after fixing my federal return :