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Has anyone used the Section 179 deduction for purchasing business vehicles? I heard SUVs and trucks over 6,000 lbs qualify differently than regular cars.
Yes, vehicles over 6,000 lbs GVWR qualify for the full Section 179 deduction (up to the limits). For 2024, the limit for these heavy SUVs, trucks, and vans is $28,900. Vehicles under 6,000 lbs have much lower depreciation limits. Make sure the vehicle is used more than 50% for business purposes (track your mileage carefully) and be aware that personal use reduces the deduction proportionally. I bought a Ford F-250 last year for my construction business and was able to take the full deduction because it's used 100% for business.
Just to add some clarity on the current situation - as of April 2024, there's still no finalized legislation that has restored bonus depreciation back to 100%. The House did pass some tax provisions earlier this year, but they stalled in the Senate. What I'm seeing from my CPA contacts is that most businesses are planning with the current rules (60% bonus depreciation for 2024) while keeping an eye on any late-year developments. The reality is that even if something passes, it might not be retroactive to January 1, 2024. For anyone making major equipment purchases, I'd echo the advice about working with current known figures. You can always amend your return if better provisions get passed later. The Section 179 deduction limits are still quite generous at $1.16M, so that might be sufficient for many small businesses anyway.
Thanks for that update Nia - this is exactly the kind of current information I was looking for! It's frustrating that Congress keeps kicking these decisions down the road, but at least now I know to plan around the 60% bonus depreciation rate rather than holding my breath for something that might not happen. The $1.16M Section 179 limit should cover most of what I need anyway. Do you happen to know if there are any other tax incentives for small business equipment purchases that might have better odds of passing this year?
Don't forget to check if your state has a tax relief program too! I owed the feds $21k and my state another $7k. I qualified for my state's Hardship Program which actually forgave about half of what I owed them. The federal payment plan was still rough but that state relief made a huge difference. Just google "[your state] tax relief program" and see what comes up.
This is good advice. My sister got into the New York Offer in Compromise program and settled her $12k state tax debt for about $3k based on her financial situation. Definitely worth looking into alongside the federal options.
I'm sorry you're going through this - the stress of owing that much to the IRS is overwhelming, but you do have options. First, definitely don't ignore this or let it spiral further. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is requesting penalty abatement for reasonable cause. Since you mentioned you lost your job 6 months ago and are struggling financially, you might qualify to have some of the penalties removed if you can show the failure to file/pay was due to circumstances beyond your control. Also, make sure you're getting proper representation. The IRS has a Low Income Taxpayer Clinic (LITC) program that provides free or low-cost assistance to people who can't afford professional help. You can find one in your area on the IRS website. These clinics have attorneys and CPAs who specialize in tax debt resolution. Given your current income situation, you'll likely qualify for Currently Not Collectible status while you get back on your feet. Yes, interest still accrues, but it stops the immediate collection pressure and gives you breathing room to stabilize your finances. Document everything about your financial hardship - job loss, medical bills, basic living expenses. This will be crucial for any hardship-based relief programs you apply for.
Has anyone used TurboTax for reporting vacant land sales? Cash App Tax is confusing me and I'm thinking about switching.
I used TurboTax last year for a similar situation. It was pretty straightforward - it has a specific section for real estate sales that aren't your primary residence. It guides you through the whole process with questions about purchase date, sale date, costs, etc. Much clearer than some of the free options.
Thanks for sharing your experience! That's super helpful. I might switch over to TurboTax then. Cash App's interface is really confusing me for this land sale stuff, and I'd rather pay a bit more than risk doing it wrong and getting audited.
Great thread everyone! Just to summarize the key points for anyone else dealing with vacant land sales: 1. **Schedule D & Form 8949**: Yes, you report it here - not just for stocks/bonds 2. **Long-term vs Short-term**: Since you held it 2017-2022, it's long-term capital gains (better tax rate!) 3. **Covered vs Not Covered**: Real estate is "not covered" - check Box E on Form 8949 4. **Your basis calculation**: $11,500 (purchase) + $950 (selling costs) = $12,450 adjusted basis 5. **Taxable gain**: $21,500 (sale price) - $12,450 (adjusted basis) = $9,050 Don't forget you can also add any improvements you made to the land (surveys, driveways, etc.) to your basis. Keep all your documentation in case the IRS has questions later. The 1099-S is just informational - the IRS knows about the sale, so make sure you report it correctly. Good luck with your filing!
This is an excellent summary! As someone who's new to property sales, I really appreciate you breaking down all the key points in one place. The step-by-step basis calculation is especially helpful - I was getting confused trying to figure out what expenses I could include. One quick question: when you mention keeping documentation for the IRS, what specific documents should I make sure to save? I have the original purchase contract and the 1099-S, but should I also keep receipts for things like the survey or any maintenance I did on the property?
Absolutely keep all those receipts! For property transactions, the IRS recommends keeping records for at least 3 years after filing, but I'd suggest holding onto them longer since property records can be important for other reasons too. Specifically, you should save: - Original purchase contract and closing statement - All improvement receipts (surveys, grading, utilities, etc.) - Selling expenses (realtor fees, advertising, legal fees) - The 1099-S form - Any property tax records during ownership - Insurance records if you had any Even small expenses can add up and reduce your taxable gain, so it's worth being thorough. I learned this the hard way when I couldn't find a $400 survey receipt during my first property sale and had to pay tax on that amount unnecessarily!
Has anyone used the 14-day rule with their STR? If you rent your place for less than 14 days total during the year, you don't have to report ANY of the income! But you also can't deduct any expenses either. I'm wondering if it makes sense for my lake house that I only rent out occasionally.
I did this last year! Only rented my cabin for 10 days during a local festival when rates were super high. Made about $4,800 tax free. But remember you can't deduct ANY expenses if you go this route - no cleaning, no maintenance, nothing. Do the math carefully - sometimes it's actually better to rent more days and take the deductions.
This is such a common source of confusion for STR owners! Based on what you've described - managing bookings, guest communications, and putting in significant work - you're likely meeting the material participation standard for active income classification. The key factors the IRS looks at are: 1) More than 500 hours annually in the activity, 2) Substantially all the work being done by you, or 3) At least 100 hours when no one else puts in more time. With earnings of $3,200-3,800 monthly, it sounds like you're doing substantial management work. Keep detailed records of your time spent on rental activities - booking management, guest communication, property maintenance, cleaning coordination, etc. This documentation will be crucial if the IRS ever questions your classification. If you qualify as active, you'll report on Schedule C and pay self-employment tax, but you'll also get access to business deductions that can significantly reduce your taxable income. One tip: the personal use days vs rental days test you mentioned applies more to determining if it's a business vs personal residence, not the active vs passive classification. That's a separate calculation altogether.
This is really helpful clarification, especially about the personal use vs rental days being separate from the active/passive determination! I've been conflating those two rules. Quick follow-up question - when you say "substantially all the work being done by you" for test #2, does that mean if I hire cleaners between guests but handle everything else myself (bookings, pricing, guest issues, maintenance scheduling), I could still qualify under that test? Or would hiring any services automatically disqualify me from the "substantially all" standard? I'm trying to figure out if I need to track my hours super precisely or if the nature of my involvement is clear enough on its own.
Great question about the "substantially all" test! Hiring cleaners typically won't disqualify you from meeting this standard as long as you're handling the core business operations yourself. The IRS recognizes that using service providers for routine tasks like cleaning is normal business practice. What matters more is who's doing the substantive management work - if you're handling bookings, pricing decisions, guest communications, marketing, maintenance coordination, and financial management, you're likely doing "substantially all" the meaningful work even with contracted cleaning services. However, I'd still recommend tracking your hours as backup documentation. Even if you qualify under the "substantially all" test, having hour logs provides additional evidence of material participation. Plus, if your involvement changes over time (like if you later hire a property manager), you'll want those records to support your classification in different tax years. The key is demonstrating that you're actively running the business, not just collecting passive rental income while others do the work.
Mei-Ling Chen
This is such a common confusion! You're definitely not responsible for paying her taxes - that's entirely her obligation as the service provider. However, you absolutely need proper documentation to claim the Child Care Tax Credit. Here's what you need to do immediately: Start keeping detailed records of every payment (date, amount, method). Since you've been paying cash, ask your provider for a year-end summary showing total payments made, along with her Tax ID number (either SSN or EIN). You'll need this information to complete Form 2441 when filing your taxes. The fact that you're paying $225 weekly means you're spending about $11,700 annually on childcare, which could qualify you for a significant tax credit! Don't let poor documentation cost you hundreds or thousands in legitimate tax savings. If she's reluctant to provide her Tax ID or proper receipts, that's a red flag. Legitimate childcare providers understand they need to provide this documentation to parents. You might want to start looking for alternative arrangements if she continues to be uncooperative about basic tax requirements.
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Grace Thomas
β’This is really helpful! I'm in a similar situation and had no idea about Form 2441. Quick question - if I've been paying cash all year without keeping receipts, is it too late to start documenting now? Should I ask my provider for a summary of what I've paid so far this year, or just start fresh with better record-keeping going forward? Also, do you know if there's a minimum amount you need to spend to qualify for the Child Care Tax Credit? I'm only paying about $150/week so I want to make sure it's worth the hassle of getting all this documentation.
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Kaitlyn Otto
β’It's definitely not too late to start documenting now! I'd recommend doing both - ask your provider for a summary of payments made so far this year, and start keeping detailed records going forward. Even if she can't provide exact amounts from earlier in the year, having partial documentation is better than none. Regarding the minimum amount - there's no specific minimum to qualify for the Child Care Tax Credit, but at $150/week ($7,800 annually), you're definitely spending enough to make it worthwhile. The credit can be up to 35% of your expenses depending on your income, so you could potentially get back $2,730 or more. That's definitely worth the effort of getting proper documentation! The key thing is making sure your provider gives you her Tax ID number. Without that, you can't claim the credit regardless of how much you spend. Start the conversation with her soon so you have time to find alternative arrangements if she's not cooperative.
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Alice Coleman
I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now! My in-home provider has been great with care but terrible with documentation. What I've learned is that you're absolutely not responsible for her taxes - that's entirely her business obligation as a service provider. However, you MUST get proper documentation to claim the Child Care Tax Credit, and at $225/week, you're looking at almost $12,000 annually that could qualify for a significant credit. Here's what I did to solve this: 1. I started keeping my own detailed payment log immediately (date, amount, payment method) 2. I had a direct conversation with my provider explaining that I legally need her Tax ID number and year-end payment summary for my taxes 3. I switched from cash to Venmo so there's an automatic record of every payment If she pushes back on providing her Tax ID, that's a major red flag that she may not be reporting her income properly. A legitimate childcare business understands these are standard requirements. You might need to start looking for alternative arrangements if she won't cooperate, because without that documentation, you'll lose out on potentially thousands in tax credits you're entitled to claim. Don't let poor record-keeping cost you money you've already earned through legitimate childcare expenses!
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