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I completely understand the panic you're feeling right now! I work as a tax preparer and see this situation ALL the time, especially with newlyweds. The good news is that you're actually in a much better position than you think. Since you've both been withholding at the "Single" rate all year, you've likely had MORE taxes taken out than necessary, not less. Single withholding is more conservative (higher) than Married Filing Jointly withholding. So instead of owing money, you'll probably get a decent refund! For your 2024 tax return, you should definitely file as Married Filing Jointly - this will give you the best tax outcome for your combined income levels. The W-4 status only affects payroll withholding throughout the year; your actual filing status is determined by your marital status on December 31st. A few action items for you: 1. File your 2024 return as Married Filing Jointly (you'll likely get a refund) 2. Update your W-4s with your employers ASAP for 2025 3. Use the IRS withholding calculator to get your 2025 withholding amounts exactly right You haven't done anything wrong - life happens and the IRS understands that people don't always update their paperwork immediately after major life changes. Take a deep breath - you're going to be just fine!
This is exactly the kind of reassurance I needed to hear from a professional! I've been spiraling thinking we made some huge mistake, but knowing that tax preparers see this all the time makes me feel so much better. The point about single withholding being more conservative really clicks for me - it makes sense that they'd take out more rather than less to avoid people owing at the end of the year. I'm actually starting to get excited about the possibility of a refund instead of dreading a huge tax bill! Thank you for the clear action steps too. We're definitely going to get those W-4s updated this week and use the IRS calculator to make sure we're on track for 2025. It's such a relief to know we haven't actually done anything wrong here.
Just wanted to add another perspective here as someone who's been through this exact situation! My husband and I got married in March 2024 and completely spaced on updating our W-4s until November. I was convinced we were going to owe a fortune. Turns out everyone here is absolutely right - we actually got a bigger refund than we expected! The single withholding rate had been taking out way more than we needed as a married couple filing jointly. One thing I'd add to all the great advice here: when you do update your W-4s for 2025, consider having slightly less withheld than the exact amount. Since you've been "overpaying" all of 2024, you might want to get more of your money in your paychecks rather than giving the government an interest-free loan. The IRS withholding calculator will show you different scenarios so you can find the sweet spot. Also, don't beat yourself up about this - literally every newly married couple I know has made this same "mistake." It's so common that tax software and professionals are totally set up to handle it smoothly. You're going to be just fine!
This is so helpful to hear from someone who went through this recently! I'm really starting to feel relieved reading all these responses. The idea of actually adjusting our 2025 withholding to get more money in our paychecks instead of overpaying is brilliant - why give the government an interest-free loan when we could be using that money throughout the year? I love that you mentioned how common this is among newlyweds. It makes me feel so much less stupid about the whole thing! We've been married over a year and I was beating myself up thinking "how could we forget something so basic?" But it sounds like it's practically a rite of passage at this point. Thanks for sharing your experience - it's giving me so much peace of mind! Now I'm actually looking forward to filing our taxes and seeing that refund instead of dreading it.
Great question! As someone who's dealt with this exact situation, here's what you can expect: On $36,000 annually, you'll likely take home around $27,000-$29,000 depending on your state. Federal income tax will be minimal thanks to the standard deduction - you'll probably pay around 6-8% effective rate. Add Social Security (6.2%) and Medicare (1.45%), plus state taxes if applicable, and you're looking at roughly 75-80% of your gross pay. Monthly, expect around $2,250-$2,400 in your bank account. If you're in a no-income-tax state like Texas or Florida, you'll be on the higher end. States like California or New York will put you on the lower end. Pro tip: If your employer offers a 401k match, definitely contribute enough to get the full match - it's free money and reduces your taxable income. Same goes for health insurance premiums if offered through work, as they're typically pre-tax deductions. Good luck with the job offer! It's smart that you're thinking about net pay for budgeting purposes.
This is super helpful! I'm actually in a similar situation and was wondering about the 401k match you mentioned. How much should someone typically contribute to get the full match? Is it usually a percentage of your salary or a fixed dollar amount? I'm trying to figure out if I can afford to contribute right away or if I should wait until I'm more settled in the job.
Great question! Most employer matches are structured as a percentage - common structures are 50% match on the first 6% you contribute, or 100% match on the first 3%. So if your company does a 50% match on 6%, you'd contribute 6% of your salary ($2,160 annually on $36k) and they'd add another $1,080. That's an instant 50% return on your investment! I'd recommend contributing enough to get the full match from day one if at all possible. Even if money is tight, you're essentially leaving free money on the table if you don't. On a $36k salary, that match could be worth $1,000+ per year. You can always start with just the match amount and increase contributions later as your financial situation improves. Check with HR during your onboarding - they'll explain your specific plan's match structure. Some companies have a vesting schedule too, so ask about that as well.
Just wanted to add that you should also factor in any pre-tax benefits your employer might offer beyond health insurance and 401k. Things like flexible spending accounts (FSA) for medical expenses, dependent care assistance, or transit benefits can further reduce your taxable income. For example, if you have regular medical expenses, you could put up to $3,200 (2025 limit) into a health FSA, which would save you about $400-500 in taxes at your income level. Transit benefits can be up to $315/month pre-tax if you use public transportation or parking. These might seem small, but every bit helps when you're budgeting on $36k. The key is to think about expenses you're already going to have and see if you can pay for them with pre-tax dollars instead. It's like getting a discount on things you'd buy anyway!
This is really valuable advice! I hadn't even thought about FSAs and transit benefits. Quick question - if I set up an FSA, do I have to use all the money in that year or do I lose it? I've heard something about "use it or lose it" but wasn't sure if that's still a thing. Also, does the transit benefit work for things like gas and car maintenance if you drive to work, or is it really just for public transit and parking?
I'm dealing with the exact same ID.me verification nightmare right now - day 8 and counting since my video interview with absolutely no communication from them! This thread has been such a sanity saver though. I was genuinely panicking that it would somehow interfere with my refund processing since I have some major business purchases I need to time correctly. But seeing all these confirmations that the systems are completely separate has taken a huge weight off my shoulders. Filed my return 22 days ago and the Where's My Refund tool continues to show normal processing progress. It's honestly mind-blowing how many people are stuck in this same ID.me limbo - they're clearly overwhelmed this tax season. Definitely calling that 1-855-438-6343 number tomorrow to see if I can get any movement on my case. Thanks to everyone for sharing your experiences and timelines - it's so reassuring to know our refunds are moving forward regardless of this verification mess!
Day 8 is brutal! I'm only on day 3 of my ID.me wait and already going crazy checking my email every hour. It's so reassuring to see that even at 22 days your refund is still processing normally - really drives home that these systems truly are separate. The fact that so many of us are dealing with identical delays suggests ID.me is seriously understaffed right now. Definitely let us know how that customer service call goes tomorrow - I might need to try the same thing if I hit the one week mark!
I'm currently stuck in the same ID.me verification waiting period - going on day 6 since my video interview with zero updates! This entire thread has been incredibly reassuring though. Like many others here, I was really stressing that the delay might somehow impact my refund processing timeline, especially since I filed 20 days ago and am waiting on that money for some planned business investments. But reading everyone's experiences has made it abundantly clear that ID.me verification and actual tax return processing are completely independent systems. I've been obsessively checking the Where's My Refund tool and it shows my return is progressing normally despite the verification holdup. It's crazy how widespread these ID.me delays seem to be this tax season - sounds like they're seriously backed up! Really appreciate everyone sharing their timelines and experiences. Makes this frustrating wait feel much more manageable knowing our refunds are processing regardless of the verification mess.
I'm dealing with this exact same issue right now! Filed my taxes in February with direct deposit info, and WMR just updated today showing they're mailing a paper check instead. I triple-checked my banking information when I filed, so I'm really confused about what went wrong. Reading through these responses is actually really helpful - I had no idea this was such a common problem. It sounds like once they switch it to paper check, there's no going back, which is frustrating but at least now I know what to expect. Does anyone know approximately how long after the WMR status changes to "paper check" that you actually receive it in the mail? I'm trying to plan my budget around when I might actually get the refund.
I just went through this same situation! From what I experienced and reading others' posts here, it typically takes about 2-3 weeks after WMR shows the paper check status for it to actually arrive in your mailbox. Mine took exactly 18 days from when the status changed. One thing that helped me was checking my IRS transcript online - it shows the exact date they mailed the check, so you're not just guessing. Also, definitely make sure your address is current with them since these checks don't always get forwarded by the post office. It's super frustrating when you're counting on that money, but at least you know it's coming! @8e43f18f553d
This is such a frustrating but apparently common issue! I'm currently going through the same thing - filed with direct deposit info that I've used successfully for years, but WMR switched to showing paper check about a week ago. What's really annoying is that there's no notification from the IRS when this happens. You just have to keep checking WMR and suddenly discover your refund method changed. Based on what everyone's sharing here, it sounds like even tiny errors in banking info (like one wrong digit) can trigger this automatic switch to paper check. Thanks @b79d4bbec2e7 for mentioning Error Code 5000 - that's really helpful to know there's an actual code for this situation. And @0660e21b0ecf, I'm definitely going to check my transcript to see if I can find the actual mail date. Has anyone found a way to prevent this from happening in future years? Like double-checking account info with your bank before filing, or is there a way to verify the info with the IRS beforehand?
Liam McConnell
Great question about CDL training deductions! I went through something similar when I got my CDL last year. The key thing to understand is that since the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act, most employee education expenses can't be deducted directly anymore, but you still have options. For your $5,100 CDL training, you'll likely want to look into the Lifetime Learning Credit since it sounds like you're working as an employee driver rather than being self-employed. This credit can give you up to $2,000 back (20% of the first $10,000 in qualified education expenses), and vocational training like CDL programs typically qualify. Make sure to keep all your receipts and documentation from the training program - you'll need Form 8863 to claim the credit. Also double-check the income limits for the credit based on your filing status. If you end up going the owner-operator route in the future, then you could potentially deduct similar training costs as business expenses on Schedule C. The mandatory nature of the ELDT requirement actually works in your favor here since it demonstrates the training was necessary for your profession. Definitely worth exploring the Lifetime Learning Credit route!
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Jacinda Yu
ā¢Thanks for this breakdown! I'm actually in a similar boat - just finished my CDL training last month and paid about $4,800 out of pocket. Quick question though: do you know if there are any restrictions on what type of CDL training qualifies for the Lifetime Learning Credit? My program included both classroom instruction and behind-the-wheel training, but I'm wondering if the IRS has specific requirements about the school being accredited or anything like that? Also, since you mentioned keeping receipts - did you just keep the tuition receipt or did you also document things like books, testing fees, and other materials? Want to make sure I'm not missing out on any qualifying expenses when I file.
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Isaac Wright
ā¢Great questions! For the Lifetime Learning Credit, your CDL training should qualify as long as the school was an eligible educational institution - which generally means they're accredited and authorized to participate in federal student aid programs. Since ELDT requires FMCSA-registered providers, most legitimate CDL schools meet these requirements, but you can verify on the Federal School Code Search tool on the Department of Education website. Regarding expenses, you can include more than just tuition! Qualifying expenses include tuition, required fees, books, supplies, and equipment needed for the course. So yes, keep receipts for your textbooks, testing fees (like permit and skills test fees), any required safety equipment, and even things like logbooks if they were required purchases. Just make sure these were required by the school, not optional. One tip: if you paid for your permit testing separately through the DMV, those fees typically don't qualify since they're licensing fees rather than educational expenses. But everything you paid directly to the training school or for required course materials should count toward that $10,000 limit for the credit calculation.
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Matthew Sanchez
This is such a timely question! I just went through this exact situation when I got my CDL through an ELDT program earlier this year. The mandatory nature of the training definitely makes it frustrating that we can't take a straight deduction anymore. One thing I'd add to the great advice already given here is to make sure you get Form 1098-T from your training school if they issue one. Not all CDL schools provide these forms, but if yours does, it makes claiming the Lifetime Learning Credit much smoother during tax filing. The form shows exactly what you paid for qualified tuition and fees. Also, if you're planning to work as an employee driver initially but might go owner-operator later, keep detailed records of everything. If you do transition to being self-employed within a reasonable timeframe, you might be able to argue that the training was a startup business expense, which could be more beneficial than the credit depending on your tax situation. The income limits for the Lifetime Learning Credit can be tricky too - they're based on your modified adjusted gross income, so if you're right on the border, it might be worth timing when you file or considering other income adjustments to stay within the qualifying range.
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Mei Chen
ā¢This is really helpful info about the Form 1098-T! I didn't even think to ask my CDL school about that. Quick question - if the school doesn't automatically send one, can you request it from them? My training program was through a smaller local school and I'm not sure if they typically handle those forms. Also, regarding the startup business expense angle you mentioned - how long of a timeframe would be considered "reasonable" for transitioning to owner-operator? I'm currently employed but thinking about going independent in the next year or two. Would that still allow me to potentially treat the CDL training as a business startup cost instead of using the Lifetime Learning Credit?
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