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Has anyone just printed out Form 4684 and done it manually? You can still e-file the rest of your return through TurboTax and just mail in the 4684 separately with a 1040-X later when it becomes available. That's what I did last year with a delayed schedule.
This doesn't work for Form 4684 unfortunately. Since it affects your AGI and potentially other calculations, you can't just add it later. The IRS would reject both returns. I tried something similar last year and it was a massive headache fixing it all.
I'm dealing with this exact same Form 4684 issue right now! Based on all the suggestions here, it sounds like there are several viable paths forward. For those considering the professional software route that Freya mentioned - I actually called Drake Software yesterday and they confirmed Form 4684 is fully available in their system. The rep said they prioritize getting all forms ready by mid-January since tax professionals can't afford to wait. One thing I'm curious about - has anyone tried contacting TurboTax directly to see if they'll extend your subscription to next year as compensation for this delay? Seems like they should offer something for the inconvenience, especially for long-time customers like the original poster. Also wanted to mention that if you do decide to switch software mid-stream, make sure to keep detailed records of what you've already entered. Even if the new software can't import your TurboTax file, having everything organized will make the re-entry process much faster.
I'm in a similar situation with my disabled sister (she has severe MS) and I've been claiming her for 3 years now. Even though she was also denied SSDI initially, I've never had any issues with the IRS. I keep a folder with her medical records, a letter from her neurologist stating she cannot work, and a spreadsheet of all the expenses I cover for her. One tip: have your brother sign IRS Form 2120 (Multiple Support Declaration) if your mother is also contributing to his support. This confirms that even though multiple people provide support, you're the one claiming him as a dependent. It's not always required, but it's good documentation to have if questions come up.
Does Form 2120 only apply if multiple people could qualify to claim the same dependent? Like if both the OP and their mother provide enough support that either could potentially claim the brother? Or is it needed whenever anyone else provides ANY support?
Form 2120 is specifically for situations where multiple people together provide more than half of someone's support, but no single person provides more than half. It's called a "multiple support agreement." In the OP's case, since they're providing 75% of their brother's support, they don't need Form 2120 because they already meet the "more than half support" test on their own. The form would only be necessary if, for example, the OP provided 40% of support, their mother provided 30%, and maybe another sibling provided 20% - then they could use Form 2120 to designate who gets to claim the dependent even though no single person provided over 50%. Since the OP is clearly providing the majority of support, they should be fine without it. Just keep good records of all the expenses you're covering!
One thing that might help ease your concerns about potential audits is to create a comprehensive "dependent file" for your brother that you keep with your tax records. Based on what you've described, you have a strong case, but good documentation is key. Include: (1) A doctor's letter specifically stating his disability prevents substantial gainful activity and is expected to last 12+ months - this addresses the IRS definition directly, (2) Medical records documenting his spine surgeries and ongoing treatment, (3) A detailed expense log showing what you pay for (housing, food, utilities, medical costs, etc.) - this proves the support test, (4) Documentation that he lived with you the full year (lease/mortgage showing his residence), and (5) Evidence of his zero income (bank statements, etc.). The SSDI denial actually works in your favor here because it shows he truly has no income, which helps meet the gross income test for dependents. The IRS disability standard is different from Social Security's - they focus on whether someone can engage in substantial gainful activity, not specific job categories like "cashew sorter." Keep receipts for everything you spend on his behalf. Even seemingly small expenses add up and help demonstrate that you're providing the majority of his support. With 9 spine surgeries and documented chronic pain, plus your clear financial support, you should be well-positioned if any questions arise.
Illinois generally follows federal tax treatment for retirement distributions, so if you roll it over within 60 days, you shouldn't owe Illinois state tax on it either. However, if you cash it and pay federal taxes, Illinois will likely tax it as ordinary income too (Illinois has a flat 4.95% rate). One thing to keep in mind - Illinois doesn't have its own early withdrawal penalty like some states do, so you'd just be looking at the regular state income tax rate if you decide to cash it rather than roll it over. But rolling it over is still your best bet to avoid all taxes, both federal and state. I'd definitely recommend calling your new 401k plan first to make sure they accept indirect rollovers before you decide which route to take!
This is really helpful information about Illinois! I had no idea that states could have different rules for retirement distributions. The 4.95% flat rate isn't too bad compared to what I was worried about. I think I'm leaning toward trying the rollover route first - I'll call my new 401k administrator tomorrow morning to see if they accept indirect rollovers. If they don't, maybe I'll look into opening a traditional IRA just for this purpose. Even with the hassle, avoiding both the 10% federal penalty and the Illinois state tax seems worth it for a $1,372 distribution. Thanks everyone for all the advice! This community has been incredibly helpful in making sense of what seemed like a confusing situation.
Just wanted to chime in as someone who works in retirement plan administration - you're getting great advice here! A few additional points that might help: The 60-day rollover clock starts from the date you RECEIVED the check, not when you cash it. So don't panic if it takes you a few days to figure out your options. Also, if your new employer's 401k doesn't accept indirect rollovers (which some don't), you can always roll it into a traditional IRA at any major brokerage like Fidelity, Vanguard, or Schwab. They're very familiar with these situations and can walk you through the process. One last thing - make sure to keep detailed records of everything (the check stub, 1099-R, deposit receipts, etc.) because you'll need to document the rollover on your tax return even though it won't be taxable. The IRS wants to see that you properly completed the rollover within the time limit. Good luck with whatever option you choose!
This is exactly the kind of professional insight I was hoping to see! As someone new to dealing with retirement account distributions, the 60-day rule is particularly important to know. I was worried that every day I spent researching my options was eating into my rollover window. The suggestion about using a major brokerage for the IRA rollover is really smart too. I hadn't considered that route, but it sounds like it might actually be simpler than trying to coordinate with my new employer's 401k plan. Quick question - when you say "keep detailed records," do you mean I should photograph everything or is it enough to just file the paperwork? I want to make sure I don't mess up the documentation if the IRS ever asks about it later.
I've been dealing with this exact same frustration and reading through all these strategies is giving me hope! The early morning timing advice (7:05-7:15am on Tuesday/Wednesday) seems to be the most consistent recommendation across everyone's experiences. One thing I wanted to add that worked for me recently - if you're using a smartphone, download an auto-redialer app. I used "Auto Redial" and set it to call every 30 seconds starting at exactly 7:00am. That way I didn't have to manually keep hitting redial and could focus on listening for when the menu actually started. Got through on attempt #23 around 7:18am using this method. Also, since you mentioned needing this for post-divorce expenses, you should definitely document how this delay is affecting your financial obligations. The Taxpayer Advocate Service takes cases involving divorce-related financial hardship seriously, and having specific examples of bills/obligations you can't meet because of the refund delay will strengthen your case if you need to file Form 911. The transcript analysis suggestion is spot-on too - I found transaction code TC 766 on mine which indicated a credit freeze that was causing my delay. Having that info ready when I finally got through to an agent made the call so much more productive. Don't give up! This community has proven there are ways to beat this broken system with the right strategy and persistence.
I've been through this exact nightmare and it's absolutely soul-crushing! After reading through all the brilliant strategies shared here, I'm amazed at how this community has basically reverse-engineered the IRS phone system to find ways around their broken infrastructure. The timing consensus around 7:05-7:15am on Tuesday/Wednesday mornings is really encouraging, and I love how people have shared specific menu sequences and tricks like the ## after SSN or the 2โ1โ0 callback escalation. The auto-redialer app suggestion from @Liam McGuire is genius - why didn't I think of that earlier? Since you mentioned this is affecting your post-divorce financial situation, I'd definitely recommend starting the Taxpayer Advocate Service process immediately while continuing your call attempts. File Form 911 online and be very specific about how the refund delay is preventing you from meeting court-ordered obligations or essential expenses. TAS has special authority to expedite hardship cases that regular customer service simply can't match. Also, pulling your tax transcript first (as several people suggested) is crucial - those transaction codes can tell you exactly what type of hold or issue you're dealing with before you even get someone on the phone. TC 570, TC 971, TC 766, etc. all mean different things and having that info ready will help the agent resolve your case much faster. Document every single call attempt with dates, times, and outcomes. This shows TAS you've exhausted normal channels and helps establish the timeline of how long this has been affecting your finances. You've got an entire playbook of proven strategies now - don't let this broken system defeat you!
Anastasia Ivanova
I went through this exact same confusion when I started my new job last year! The key thing to understand is that the new W4 is actually designed to be more accurate than the old allowances system, but it does require a bit more work upfront. Here's what I learned: The old "claim 0" was basically a hack to overwithhold taxes, but it wasn't very precise. The new system lets you be much more targeted. My advice is to start with the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator first - it's free and gives you a good baseline. Then, if you want to be extra safe (like you were with claiming 0), just add an additional $25-50 per paycheck in Step 4(c) on top of what the estimator suggests. This way you'll still get that nice refund you're used to, but you won't be giving the government an interest-free loan for more than necessary. I did this approach and ended up with a $3,400 refund last year, which was right in line with what I used to get with the old system. The peace of mind is totally worth it!
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Rajan Walker
โขThis is really helpful advice! I like the idea of using the IRS estimator as a baseline and then adding extra on top for safety. Quick question - when you say you got a $3,400 refund, did you have to make any adjustments throughout the year or did your initial W4 setup work perfectly? I'm worried about setting it once and then finding out in April that I miscalculated somewhere along the way.
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Natasha Romanova
โขGreat question! I actually did check on it once mid-year when I got a small raise, but the original setup worked really well. The IRS estimator had me pretty close to the right amount, and the extra $40 per paycheck I added on top gave me that buffer I wanted. One tip: if you do get a raise, bonus, or any other income change during the year, it's worth running the estimator again just to double-check. I also keep track of my year-to-date withholding on my pay stubs - by around October you can get a pretty good sense of whether you're on track for the refund amount you want. The new system is actually more forgiving of small miscalculations than the old one was, so don't stress too much about getting it perfect on the first try!
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Freya Andersen
The transition from the old W4 system definitely threw me for a loop too when I switched jobs! Here's what worked for me after a lot of trial and error: I started by using the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator, but honestly found it a bit confusing with all the different scenarios. What really helped was looking at my previous year's tax return to see exactly how much was withheld versus what I actually owed. For example, if you normally got a $3,500 refund, that means you had about $3,500 more withheld than you needed to pay in taxes. To replicate that with the new W4, I divided that overpayment by my number of paychecks per year. So $3,500 รท 26 paychecks = roughly $135 extra per paycheck to put in Step 4(c). I also learned that you can always submit a new W4 to your payroll department if you need to adjust - it's not set in stone! I actually tweaked mine twice in my first year as I got a better feel for how it was working out. Don't be afraid to start conservative and adjust as needed. The peace of mind of knowing you won't owe money at tax time is totally worth the extra effort of figuring out the new system!
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Cameron Black
โขThis is such a practical approach! I love the idea of looking at last year's actual refund amount and working backwards from that. That makes way more sense than trying to guess what I need. Quick question though - when you say you tweaked your W4 twice, how long did you wait between changes? I'm worried about making adjustments too frequently and confusing my payroll department or messing up the calculations. Did you wait a full quarter to see how it was working out, or did you adjust sooner when you realized something was off? Also, did your HR department give you any pushback about submitting multiple W4 forms? I've never changed mine mid-year before so I'm not sure what to expect.
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