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As a tax preparer who's seen this exact scenario play out many times, I want to emphasize something that's been touched on but deserves more attention: the IRS has gotten much more sophisticated at detecting these patterns through automated systems. What you're describing - transferring assets just under the Kiddie Tax threshold to multiple children followed by quick sales - is essentially a textbook example of what their algorithms flag for review. Even if everything is technically legal, you're setting yourself up for scrutiny that's just not worth the minimal tax savings. I've had three clients in the past two years who tried variations of this strategy. All three ended up spending more on professional fees during their audits than they saved in taxes. The IRS agents specifically mentioned that custodial account activity is one of their focus areas right now. If you're really looking to reduce your tax burden while helping your kids, consider more straightforward approaches: 529 plans (as mentioned), direct educational expense payments (which don't count against gift limits), or even just holding the investments until you qualify for long-term capital gains rates. Sometimes the most boring strategy is also the smartest one.
This is really eye-opening information about the IRS algorithms flagging these patterns. As someone new to this community, I'm wondering - are there any other "clever" tax strategies that seem legitimate on the surface but are actually red flags for audits? It sounds like the key takeaway is that if something feels like you're trying to outsmart the system, it's probably not worth the risk. The peace of mind from using established, IRS-approved methods like 529 plans seems much more valuable than saving a few hundred dollars while risking an audit. Thank you to everyone who shared their real experiences - both the successes and the cautionary tales. This thread has been incredibly educational for someone just starting to think about tax optimization strategies.
New member here, but this discussion has been incredibly valuable as I was considering a very similar strategy for my two kids. The warning about IRS algorithms specifically flagging custodial account patterns is exactly what I needed to hear. I'm curious about one thing that hasn't been fully addressed - for those who mentioned 529 plans as the better alternative, are there any downsides to be aware of? I know the money has to be used for qualified education expenses, but what happens if my kids decide not to go to college or get full scholarships? Also, @CosmicCruiser mentioned that direct educational expense payments don't count against gift limits - could you elaborate on how that works? Does that mean I could pay tuition directly to the school without it counting against the annual gift tax exclusion? Thanks for saving me from what would have clearly been a mistake. Sometimes the "too good to be true" strategies really are just that.
I was in a very similar situation last year - working part-time as a graphic designer while day trading. Based on my experience and research, you definitely have a strong case for TTS qualification. Your 15-20 trades per week and 4-5 hours daily commitment are well within the range that courts have recognized as "substantial" trading activity. The fact that you're generating more income from trading than your regular job actually strengthens your position. The IRS looks at factors like frequency of trades, time devoted to trading, and whether you're seeking to profit from short-term price movements rather than long-term investment gains. A few practical tips: Make sure you're keeping detailed records of your trading time (I use a simple spreadsheet), maintain separate accounts for trading vs. personal finances, and document your trading strategy/methodology. Consider setting up a dedicated trading workspace at home if you haven't already - this can support home office deductions. One thing to be aware of: if you decide to elect mark-to-market accounting, you need to make that election by the tax filing deadline (including extensions) for the year you want it to take effect. So if you're planning to claim TTS for 2024, you'd need to make the MTM election by the 2024 tax filing deadline. Your situation sounds very promising for TTS qualification. The key is proper documentation and maintaining clear separation between your trading business and employment.
This is really helpful advice! I'm curious about the mark-to-market election deadline you mentioned. If someone missed making that election for 2024, would they have to wait until 2025 to benefit from MTM accounting? Also, once you make the MTM election, are you locked into it permanently or can you revoke it in future years if your trading situation changes?
Great question about the MTM election timing! If you miss the deadline for 2024, you would indeed have to wait until you can make the election for 2025. The Section 475(f) election must be made by the original due date (without extensions) of the tax return for the year preceding the year you want it to take effect. Regarding revocation - once you make the MTM election, you're generally stuck with it unless you get IRS permission to revoke it, which requires filing Form 3115 (Application for Change in Accounting Method). The IRS typically only approves revocations if there's been a significant change in your trading circumstances or if continuing with MTM would cause undue hardship. This is why it's crucial to carefully consider whether MTM is right for your situation before making the election. While it eliminates the $3,000 capital loss limitation and allows full deductibility of losses, it also means all your gains are treated as ordinary income rather than potentially favorable capital gains rates. @e1763c145a93 Thanks for the comprehensive breakdown - your point about maintaining separate accounts is especially important for audit protection!
Based on your trading activity and time commitment, you have a solid foundation for TTS qualification. The IRS doesn't require full-time trading - they focus on whether your activity constitutes a "trade or business" based on frequency, regularity, and substantiality. Your 15-20 weekly trades and 4-5 daily hours of trading work strongly support TTS eligibility. What's particularly compelling is that your trading income exceeds your part-time job income, which demonstrates the business nature of your activity. Here are some key steps to strengthen your position: 1) **Documentation is critical** - Keep detailed logs of time spent trading, researching, and managing positions. This shows the IRS you're running a legitimate business operation. 2) **Separate your activities** - Use dedicated accounts, equipment, and workspace for trading. This creates clear business separation from your employment. 3) **Business approach** - Maintain a formal trading plan, strategy documentation, and treat it like the business it is. 4) **Consider professional help** - Given the complexity of TTS rules and the potential tax benefits (especially with mark-to-market election), consulting with a CPA experienced in trader taxation could save you significant money and audit headaches. The part-time employment actually works in your favor by showing you have another income source, making it clear your trading isn't just casual investing but a separate business activity. Many successful TTS claims have been made by people with other jobs - the key is demonstrating the substantial, regular, continuous nature of your trading business.
This is exactly the kind of comprehensive guidance I was looking for! Your point about treating it like a legitimate business really resonates with me. I've been pretty informal with my record-keeping so far, but it sounds like I need to step up my documentation game. Question about the "substantial, regular, continuous" standard - do you think there's a minimum threshold for number of trading days per year that would strengthen the case? I typically trade 4-5 days per week but sometimes take a week or two off for vacations or when markets are really volatile. Would those gaps potentially hurt my TTS qualification? Also, when you mention "formal trading plan," what should that include exactly? I have general strategies I follow but nothing written down in a business plan format. @469cf7521cca Thanks for breaking this down so clearly - definitely going to look into finding a CPA who specializes in trader taxes!
As someone who's been through this exact situation with SPX and SPY options, I can definitely relate to the confusion around Form 6781! One thing that helped me was creating a spreadsheet to track all my positions before trying to fill out the form. For each trade, I documented: the underlying security, option type (call/put), strike price, expiration date, entry/exit dates, and whether it was part of an offsetting position. This made it much easier to identify which trades actually formed straddles versus just standalone option positions. Also worth noting - if you have any positions that were still open at year-end that offset realized losses, you may need to report unrecognized gains under the straddle rules. This is one of the trickier parts of Form 6781 that catches a lot of people off guard. The key is being methodical about it rather than trying to rush through. Take your time to properly categorize each position first, then tackle the form section by section.
This is really helpful advice! I'm definitely going to create that spreadsheet you mentioned. Quick question - when you say "offsetting position," how close do the strike prices need to be to qualify? For example, if I had SPY calls at $450 and puts at $440, would that ten-point difference still make them offsetting positions for straddle purposes? I'm trying to figure out which of my trades I actually need to worry about for Form 6781.
Great question about strike price differences! The IRS doesn't specify exact dollar amounts for what constitutes "offsetting" positions - it's more about whether the combined positions substantially reduce your overall risk exposure. In your SPY example with $450 calls and $440 puts, that $10 spread could potentially still qualify as offsetting positions depending on other factors like expiration dates, position sizes, and the overall price of the underlying. If SPY was trading around $445 when you held both positions, those strikes would provide meaningful protection against each other. The key test is whether one position would gain value when the other loses value in a way that materially reduces your net risk. A $450 call and $440 put on the same expiration would definitely move in opposite directions, so they could form a straddle even with that strike difference. I'd recommend documenting all potentially offsetting positions in your spreadsheet and then making the determination based on the economic reality of each pair. When in doubt, it's often safer to report questionable positions as straddles rather than risk the IRS determining you should have reported them later.
I went through this exact same situation last year with my SPX and SPY options trading! The confusion around Form 6781 is totally understandable - it's one of the more complex tax forms out there. One thing that really helped me was understanding the timing differences. For SPX options (Section 1256 contracts), you have to mark-to-market at year end even if you're still holding the positions. This means you'll report gains/losses on all your SPX positions in Part I whether you closed them or not. For SPY options that form straddles, you only report realized transactions in Part II, but you need to be careful about the loss deferral rules. If you realized a loss on one leg of a straddle while the offsetting position had unrecognized gains, you may have to defer some of that loss. I'd also suggest keeping very detailed records of when you opened and closed each position. The IRS can be pretty strict about the documentation for straddle transactions, especially if they audit. Make sure you can clearly show which positions were intended to offset each other and when those relationships were established. The good news is once you get through it the first time, subsequent years become much easier since you'll understand the process better!
This is exactly the kind of detailed explanation I was hoping for! The mark-to-market requirement for SPX options even on open positions is something I completely missed. So if I understand correctly, if I bought SPX calls in December that I'm still holding, I need to calculate their fair market value on December 31st and report that as if I sold them? And for the loss deferral on SPY straddles - is there a specific formula for calculating how much of the loss gets deferred, or is it just the amount of unrecognized gain in the offsetting position? I'm worried I might have some of these situations in my trading history that I haven't identified yet. Your point about documentation is well taken too. I've been pretty casual about record keeping but it sounds like I need to get much more organized about tracking the relationship between positions.
Exactly right on the SPX mark-to-market! You'll need to determine the fair market value of your open SPX positions as of December 31st and report the difference between that value and your cost basis. Most brokerages will actually provide this information on your year-end statements for Section 1256 contracts, but if not, you can use the closing prices on December 31st. For the loss deferral calculation, it's generally the lesser of: (1) the loss you realized on the closed position, or (2) the unrecognized gain in the offsetting position as of the date you closed the loss position. So if you closed SPY calls for a $1,000 loss while holding offsetting puts with $800 of unrecognized gains, you'd defer $800 of that loss. One thing to watch for - the deferral rules can get complex when you have multiple overlapping positions or when you close positions at different times. I'd strongly recommend getting your records organized before diving into the calculations. Create a timeline showing when each position was opened, when offsetting positions existed, and when things were closed. This will help you identify all the potential straddle situations you need to analyze.
Does anyone know if its possible to just mail a check for quarterly payments? My internet is spotty and I dont really trust online payments for something this important.
Yes, you can definitely mail a check! You'll need to include Form 1040-ES vouchers with your payment. FreeTaxUSA should be able to generate these vouchers for you to print out. Each voucher has the quarter date and payment amount, plus where to mail it. Just make sure you mail it early enough to arrive by the deadline - a postmark on/before the due date counts as on time. And keep copies of everything plus the canceled check for your records!
I've been using FreeTaxUSA for my quarterly payments for about 2 years now and wanted to share my experience. The software does a great job calculating your estimated payments, but like others mentioned, you need to handle the actual payment process separately. I started with Direct Pay but switched to EFTPS after missing a payment deadline (cost me about $65 in penalties). The EFTPS registration process is a bit old-school - you do have to wait for them to mail you a PIN - but once you're set up, it's incredibly convenient to schedule all four payments at once. One tip that might help: when FreeTaxUSA calculates your quarterly amounts, print out that summary page and keep it with your tax records. I reference it throughout the year when I'm tracking my business income to make sure I'm still on track. Also, don't forget that if your income changes significantly during the year, you might need to adjust your remaining quarterly payments. EFTPS makes it easy to modify future scheduled payments if needed.
This is really helpful advice! I'm curious about adjusting payments mid-year - how do you know when your income has changed enough to warrant updating your quarterly amounts? Is there a general rule of thumb, like if you're off by more than 10% or a certain dollar amount? I'm worried about either overpaying significantly or underpaying and getting hit with penalties.
Mei Wong
Just a heads up - make sure you're also considering any potential late filing penalties for these prior year 1099 NECs. The penalty ranges from $50 to $280 per form depending on how late they are and whether the IRS considers it intentional disregard. If you have a reasonable cause for filing late, include a statement explaining the circumstances. The IRS can waive penalties if you can show reasonable cause for not filing on time.
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Liam Sullivan
ā¢Is there any way to request a penalty waiver proactively or do you just wait to see if they assess penalties and then appeal?
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Carmen Lopez
For the 1099 NEC forms, you can also check with local office supply stores like Staples or OfficeDepot - they sometimes carry prior year tax forms in stock, especially during tax season. I found 2021 forms at my local Staples last year when I was in a similar situation. Regarding penalties, if you're filing these 1099s now for 2021 and 2022, you're definitely looking at late filing penalties. However, since your contractor already reported the income on their tax returns, this works in your favor for penalty abatement. The IRS is more lenient when the income was properly reported by the recipient even if the 1099 was filed late. When you submit the forms, include a letter explaining that this is your first time filing 1099s as a small business owner, you've been working to get compliant, and the recipients have already properly reported the income. This reasonable cause explanation can help reduce or eliminate penalties. Also, double-check that you actually need to issue 1099 NECs - you only need them if you paid $600 or more to non-corporate contractors during the tax year. If your contractor was incorporated, you generally don't need to issue a 1099 NEC at all.
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Natasha Kuznetsova
ā¢This is really helpful advice, especially about checking if the contractor was incorporated! I've been assuming I need to file 1099s for everyone, but now I'm wondering if some of my contractors might have been LLCs or corporations. Is there an easy way to verify this retroactively for 2021-2022? I have their business names and EINs from when I paid them, but I'm not sure how to check their corporate status from those years. Some of these businesses might have changed their structure since then. Also, the penalty abatement letter is a great idea. Should I send one letter covering both tax years or separate letters for each year's filings?
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