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Ask the community...

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Amina Bah

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I went through this exact same confusion with Hurricane Ian losses for my property in Bonita Springs. The IRS guidance online is definitely outdated - they still reference Hurricane Maria in most publications because they don't update every document immediately after each disaster. Hurricane Ian is absolutely a qualified disaster under FEMA declaration DR-4673-FL from September 29, 2022. I successfully claimed my losses using Form 4684 and received my refund without any issues from the IRS. The key documentation you'll need: detailed photos of damage, all insurance correspondence and claim settlements, contractor estimates for repairs, receipts for any out-of-pocket expenses, and proof you were in an affected county. For your $42,000 loss, make sure you're clear about what portion was covered by insurance versus your actual out-of-pocket loss. One thing I wish I'd known earlier - you can choose to claim the loss on either your 2021 or 2022 tax return, whichever gives you better tax savings. With a loss that size, it's worth running the calculations both ways. In my case, claiming it on 2021 saved me about $4,200 more because my income was higher that year and the deduction was worth more. Don't let outdated IRS publications confuse you - Hurricane Ian definitely qualifies and you should claim that deduction if you have proper documentation.

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Savannah Vin

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This is exactly what I needed to hear! I'm also in Southwest Florida and have been so confused by all the conflicting information I was finding online. Your point about choosing between tax years is really important - I hadn't realized that was an option. With my Hurricane Ian damages being around $35,000 after insurance, it sounds like it would definitely be worth having someone run those calculations to see which year would give me the better tax benefit. Did you use any specific tax software or professional to help you figure out the optimal year to claim it on? I want to make sure I don't leave money on the table with such a significant loss.

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Kaiya Rivera

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I can definitely help clarify this confusion about Hurricane Ian! You're absolutely right that the IRS guidance online is frustratingly outdated - they still reference Hurricane Maria in most of their publications because they don't update every single document after each new disaster. Hurricane Ian is 100% a qualified disaster under FEMA declaration DR-4673-FL (declared September 29, 2022). I work in tax preparation and have successfully processed dozens of Hurricane Ian claims using Form 4684 without any issues from the IRS. For your $42,000 loss, here's what you need to know: 1) Use Form 4684 (Casualties and Thefts) and specifically reference FEMA DR-4673-FL 2) Document everything: photos of damage, insurance claim details, contractor estimates, repair receipts 3) Calculate your loss as the lesser of: decrease in fair market value OR your adjusted basis, minus any insurance reimbursements One crucial tip that could save you thousands: you can elect to claim this loss on either your 2021 OR 2022 tax return - whichever gives you better tax savings. With a $42K loss, this decision could easily be worth $3,000+ in additional refund depending on your income in each year. Don't let your tax preparer's uncertainty cost you money. The guidance is crystal clear once you know the FEMA declaration number. Hurricane Ian absolutely qualifies and you should claim every penny you're entitled to.

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Thank you so much for this comprehensive breakdown! As someone who's been struggling with this exact issue for weeks, this is incredibly helpful. I had no idea about the option to choose between tax years - that could make a huge difference with my loss amount. One quick question: when you mention calculating the loss as the "decrease in fair market value OR adjusted basis," how do you typically determine the decrease in fair market value? Do you need a formal appraisal, or are contractor estimates sufficient? I have detailed contractor estimates for repairs but wasn't sure if I needed something more official for the IRS. Also, is there a specific deadline for making the election between claiming it on 2021 vs 2022? I want to make sure I don't miss any time limits while I'm running the numbers both ways.

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StarSailor

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The QBI deduction can definitely be confusing, especially with multiple income sources! One thing that might help is understanding that the phase-out isn't a cliff - it's gradual. Between the lower and upper thresholds, your deduction is calculated using a blend of the standard 20% rule and the more restrictive W-2 wage/property limitation. For your S-corp situation, you're actually in a pretty good position because S-corp shareholder wages DO count toward the W-2 wage limitation test. This means even if you're above the upper threshold, you might still qualify for a significant deduction if your business pays reasonable wages. One strategy some S-corp owners use is optimizing their salary vs. distribution mix. While you need to pay yourself reasonable compensation, having adequate W-2 wages can help preserve your QBI deduction when you're in the phase-out range. Just make sure any salary adjustments still meet the "reasonable compensation" requirements for S-corp shareholders. Have you calculated where your taxable income falls relative to the 2025 thresholds? That would help determine which calculation method applies to your situation.

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This is really helpful! I'm new to understanding QBI and had no idea about the gradual phase-out - I thought it was all or nothing. Your point about optimizing the salary vs. distribution mix is interesting. How do you determine what constitutes "reasonable compensation" for S-corp shareholders? Is there a specific formula or percentage the IRS looks for, or is it more subjective based on industry standards and job responsibilities? I want to make sure I'm not being too aggressive with keeping salary low just to maximize the QBI benefit. Also, when you mention calculating taxable income relative to the 2025 thresholds, is that before or after the standard deduction? I'm trying to figure out exactly where I fall in the phase-out range.

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Everett Tutum

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Great question about reasonable compensation! The IRS doesn't provide a specific formula, but they look at several factors: what you would pay someone else to do your job, industry compensation standards, your qualifications and experience, the time you devote to the business, and the company's profitability. A common rule of thumb is that your salary should be at least 40-60% of the business's net income, but this varies significantly by industry and circumstances. The IRS has been more aggressive in auditing S-corps with very low salaries relative to distributions, especially when the salary seems unreasonably low for the work performed. For the taxable income calculation, the QBI phase-out thresholds are based on taxable income BEFORE the QBI deduction but AFTER the standard deduction. So if you're married filing jointly, you'd take your adjusted gross income, subtract the standard deduction ($30,000 for 2025), and that's the number you compare to the $396,200/$553,850 thresholds. The key is finding the sweet spot where your salary is defensible as reasonable compensation while still allowing you to benefit from the QBI deduction. A tax professional familiar with your industry can really help with this balance.

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James Maki

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One aspect of QBI that often trips people up is the "specified service trade or business" (SSTB) rules. If your business falls into categories like consulting, law, accounting, health, or financial services, the QBI deduction phases out completely once you exceed the income thresholds - there's no W-2 wage or property test that can save you. However, many businesses think they're SSTBs when they're actually not. For example, if you're an engineer who owns a manufacturing business, that's typically NOT an SSTB even though engineering services would be. The key is what your business actually does, not your professional background. Also worth noting: if you have multiple businesses and some are SSTBs while others aren't, you calculate QBI separately for each. The non-SSTB businesses can still qualify for QBI even if your SSTB income is completely phased out due to high income. For your S-corp, make sure you're also considering the impact of any rental properties or other passive investments you might have. Rental real estate can qualify for QBI (with some limitations), and this income is calculated separately from your active business QBI, which can sometimes help offset phase-out limitations.

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Ava Martinez

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Don't forget about the Form W-9! Requiring a completed W-9 adds an extra layer of verification. If someone provides false information on a W-9, they're committing perjury under federal law, which creates a strong disincentive for scammers.

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Miguel Ortiz

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That's great for US-based businesses, but international businesses won't have W-9s. They might have W-8BEN or W-8BEN-E forms instead. Just something to consider if OP is dealing with international verification too.

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One approach that's worked well for our platform is implementing a tiered verification system. For lower-risk transactions (under $500), we rely on document verification plus state business registry checks. For higher amounts, we add banking verification and sometimes require a video call with the business owner. We use a combination of automated document analysis (similar to what others mentioned with AI tools) and manual spot-checks. The key is having clear escalation procedures - if anything looks suspicious during automated screening, it gets flagged for human review. Also worth considering: many fraudsters will abandon applications if the verification process seems thorough, even if they could potentially pass each individual check. Sometimes the perception of rigorous verification is as valuable as the actual verification itself. For the volume you're dealing with, I'd recommend starting with document + state registry verification, then adding layers based on transaction risk levels rather than trying to verify everything to the same standard.

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Adrian Connor

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This tiered verification approach makes a lot of sense! I'm curious about your video call process - how do you handle that at scale? Do you have dedicated staff for verification calls, or do you use a third-party service? Also, what specific things do you look for during those calls to confirm legitimacy? I imagine it would be hard for fraudsters to fake a convincing business owner persona in real-time.

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Ellie Perry

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I'm going through something very similar right now and your post really resonated with me. One thing I learned from my tax attorney is that you should also consider whether either of you has used the capital gains exclusion on another property within the past 2 years. The IRS has a rule that you can only use the $250,000 (or $500,000 if married filing jointly) exclusion once every 2 years. Also, since you mentioned this is your biggest asset, make sure you coordinate with your divorce attorney about how the tax implications fit into your overall property settlement. Sometimes it makes sense for one spouse to take a slightly smaller share of other assets to account for any tax burden from the house sale. Given your numbers ($300k gain minus improvements and closing costs), you're likely looking at minimal or no capital gains tax regardless of when you finalize the divorce. But having that conversation with both your divorce attorney and a tax professional can help you optimize the overall settlement. Hang in there - it does get easier once all the paperwork is finalized!

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This is such great advice about the 2-year rule! I hadn't even thought about that. Fortunately, this is the first (and hopefully only) time either of us will be selling a primary residence, so we should be good on that front. Your point about coordinating with the divorce attorney is really smart too. We're still working out the details of our settlement agreement, and it makes sense to factor in any potential tax implications when dividing up our other assets. Even if the tax burden ends up being minimal, having that conversation upfront could save us headaches later. Thanks for the encouragement - some days it feels overwhelming trying to navigate all the legal, financial, and emotional aspects of this process simultaneously. It helps to hear from others who've been through it successfully.

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I'm so sorry you're going through this difficult time. Divorce is stressful enough without having to worry about tax implications too. Based on what you've shared, it sounds like you're in a pretty good position tax-wise, which should be one less thing to stress about. From the numbers you provided, your capital gain would be around $300,000 ($620,000 sale price minus $320,000 purchase price). But as others have mentioned, don't forget to add any qualifying home improvements to your cost basis - that kitchen reno and HVAC replacement you mentioned could reduce your taxable gain significantly. One thing I'd recommend is getting everything documented now while you still have access to all the records. Make copies of the original purchase documents, receipts for major improvements, and any other relevant paperwork. During my own divorce, things got scattered between lawyers and moving, and it was much harder to track everything down later. The good news is that with the capital gains exclusions available and the improvements you've made, you'll likely owe little to no capital gains tax regardless of whether you finalize the divorce before or after the sale. Focus on what makes the most sense for your overall settlement rather than just the tax implications. Wishing you the best through this process!

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Thank you for such a thoughtful and comprehensive response! Your advice about documenting everything now is spot-on - I can already see how easy it would be for important paperwork to get lost in the shuffle of everything else going on. I'm going to make copies of all our improvement receipts and purchase documents this weekend while I still have easy access to everything. It's really reassuring to hear from so many people that the tax situation likely won't be as complicated as I initially feared. Between the improvements we've made and the capital gains exclusions, it sounds like we should be in good shape regardless of the timing. That definitely takes some pressure off and lets us focus on what makes the most sense for the overall divorce settlement rather than trying to optimize just for taxes. I really appreciate everyone who took the time to share their experiences and knowledge - this community has been incredibly helpful during a really challenging time.

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Reina Salazar

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anyone else notice that sometimes forms ask for "SSN" and other times they ask for "TIN" even though they want the same thing? super confusing when you're filling out tax forms. why can't they just use consistent terminology??

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It's because TIN is like the umbrella term that covers different types of tax IDs. So forms that might be used by different types of taxpayers (individuals, businesses, nonresidents) will ask for "TIN" to cover all possibilities. Forms specifically for employees usually ask for SSN since that's most relevant.

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Don't worry, this isn't a dumb question at all! I was in the exact same boat when I started my first "real" job. Your TIN (Taxpayer Identification Number) is most likely your Social Security Number if you're a U.S. citizen or permanent resident. The confusion comes from the fact that TIN is basically an umbrella term - it can refer to different types of tax ID numbers depending on your situation. For most regular employees like yourself, your 9-digit SSN serves as your TIN. You can double-check this by looking at any previous tax documents you might have (like a W-2 from a part-time job) - your SSN will be listed in the TIN field. So when your HR person asks for your TIN on the tax forms, just provide your SSN. It's totally normal to be confused by tax terminology - the IRS doesn't exactly make things crystal clear with their language choices!

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This is such a helpful explanation! I'm also new to filing taxes and was wondering - if I've never had a job before and don't have any W-2s or previous tax documents, how can I verify that my SSN is correct? I have my Social Security card but want to make sure I'm not making any mistakes on these important forms. Should I just trust that the number on my card is definitely what I should use as my TIN?

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