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One thing nobody's mentioned - make sure you have SOLID documentation for those expenses if they were from 2023 but you're claiming them in 2024. The IRS tends to flag mismatched years, especially with new businesses. Keep receipts, bank statements, credit card statements, and maybe even take photos of the equipment showing you still own and use it. Better safe than sorry!
Great question! I went through something similar with my photography business. The key thing to understand is that the IRS distinguishes between when you incur expenses and when your business actually begins operations. Since you didn't start generating income until 2024, that's when your business truly "began" for tax purposes. You can definitely claim those 2023 expenses on your 2024 return. For the equipment (mowers, trimmers, etc.), you'll likely want to look into Section 179 deduction which allows you to deduct the full cost of qualifying equipment in the year you place it in service for your business - which would be 2024 in your case. The utility trailer might be handled differently depending on its weight and use, but don't worry about losing those deductions. Just make sure you keep all your 2023 receipts and any documentation showing when you actually started operating the business in 2024. The IRS is pretty reasonable about startup situations like this as long as you have good records.
This is really helpful! I'm actually in a similar boat with my new handyman business. Quick question - does the Section 179 deduction have any limits I should be aware of? I spent about $8,000 on tools and a work van last year but didn't start taking clients until this year. Want to make sure I understand all the rules before I file.
Has anyone else noticed that the 1095-A forms are weirdly confusing for marketplace plans? Like why don't they just issue the form to the person who's actually covered by the insurance? I had a similar issue last year and ended up just having the policy holder (my partner) claim everything and then we split the refund/payment based on our agreement. Not technically correct probably but way simpler than doing the allocation.
That's actually not a good approach and could cause problems! The IRS requires the allocation form specifically because the premium tax credit is based on individual/household income. If the wrong person claims it, you could either miss out on credit you're entitled to or have to pay back credit you shouldn't have received. Plus, if you're ever audited, this could be flagged as an issue since the 1095-A clearly shows who was covered.
I just went through this exact situation last month! My mom received the 1095-A but I was the only one covered on the policy, and we file separately. Option A is definitely the way to go. Both you and your dad need to file Form 8962, but with the allocation percentages showing 0% for him and 100% for you. This is actually pretty straightforward once you understand what's happening - you're just telling the IRS who gets to claim which portion of the policy. A few things that helped me: - Make sure you both use the exact same allocation percentages (0%/100%) - You'll need each other's SSNs for Part IV of Form 8962 - Your dad's form will basically show zeros for everything after allocation, but he still needs to file it - Only your income matters for the premium tax credit calculation since you're getting 100% allocation The income difference between you and your dad won't mess anything up because once the allocation is done, his income is completely out of the equation. Your premium tax credit will be calculated based solely on your income and household size. Don't let the allocation part intimidate you - it's really just paperwork to clarify who gets what. The actual tax credit calculation happens separately for each person based on their allocated percentage.
This is exactly what I needed to hear! I was getting so overwhelmed by all the allocation language in the instructions, but breaking it down like this makes it way clearer. Just to make sure I understand - when you say your mom's form showed zeros after allocation, does that mean she didn't have to calculate any premium tax credit amounts at all? Or did she still have to fill out the income and household size parts even though she was getting 0% of the policy? I'm assuming she still had to complete the whole form to show the IRS she received the 1095-A but wasn't claiming any of it?
22 Quick tip from someone who's been there - if you're filing late for your partnership, include a letter explaining that you're first-time business owners who were unaware of the filing requirements. The IRS often waives penalties for first-time filers if you have a reasonable explanation!
18 Does that actually work? We're almost 2 months late at this point and freaking out about potential penalties.
Yes, it absolutely can work! I was about 3 months late filing our partnership return and submitted a reasonable cause letter explaining we were new business owners who didn't understand the filing requirements. The IRS completely waived the penalties - saved us over $400. Just be honest about being first-time filers and include your filing as soon as possible. The sooner you file with the explanation, the better your chances of getting the penalties removed.
Just to add to the excellent advice already given - don't forget that even though you haven't started operations, you may still need to obtain an EIN (Employer Identification Number) if you haven't already. The IRS requires partnerships to have an EIN for filing Form 1065, regardless of activity level. Also, make sure to keep detailed records of that laptop purchase including the receipt, date of purchase, and business purpose documentation. Even though it's a simple expense, proper documentation will be crucial if you ever get audited. The IRS likes to see clear business purpose for all deductions, especially in the early years when partnerships haven't established revenue patterns. One more thing - consider setting up a separate business bank account if you haven't already. It makes tracking expenses much easier and shows the IRS you're treating this as a legitimate business entity rather than just a personal venture.
Great point about the EIN! We actually got ours when we registered the partnership, but I didn't realize it was specifically required for Form 1065 filing. The separate business bank account tip is really smart too - we've been using our personal accounts for the few business expenses we've had, which is probably making things more complicated than they need to be. I'll set that up before we have any real business activity. Thanks for the documentation reminder! We still have the laptop receipt but I never thought about documenting the business purpose. Since we bought it specifically for the partnership, should we just write up a simple memo explaining that and keep it with our records?
@297b08930051 I totally get your frustration! I went through this exact same confusion during my first tax season here in the US. The whole Pathward situation is like trying to track a package that goes through a distribution center you can't access - which is basically what's happening! Here's what I wish someone had told me upfront: When you chose to have H&R Block deduct their fees from your refund, your money takes this route: IRS ā Pathward (they grab H&R Block's cut) ā Your bank account. Pathward is essentially just H&R Block's behind-the-scenes payment processor, not a bank you can log into or interact with directly. For tracking your refund, stick to these two reliable sources: ⢠**H&R Block online account** - Log in and look for "Check Refund Status" or "E-file Status" ⢠**IRS Where's My Refund tool** at irs.gov - This is usually the most up-to-date and accurate Pro tip: Once the IRS tool shows your refund as "sent," expect an additional 2-4 business days for Pathward to process the fee deduction and forward the rest to your bank. Don't worry about over-preparing with documents - that's actually smart! It's the follow-up process that nobody explains well. You're definitely not alone in feeling lost in this "tax maze" - the system really is unnecessarily complicated for newcomers. Hang in there, you've got this! š
@9a79ffd5abf0 Wait, I'm a bit confused - are you the same Connor who originally posted this question? Your member ID shows as 9a79ffd5abf0 here but the original post was from 297b08930051. Just want to make sure I'm following the conversation correctly! If you are the same person, it's great to see you're helping explain the process to others after figuring it out yourself. The distribution center analogy is really spot on - it perfectly captures why we can't access Pathward directly. As someone still learning the ropes of US taxes, I really appreciate when people share their "I wish someone had told me" insights!
@297b08930051 I totally understand your frustration - I went through this exact same confusion when I first started filing taxes! The Pathward situation is honestly one of the most poorly explained parts of using H&R Block, and you're definitely not alone in feeling overwhelmed. Here's the key thing that helped me finally understand: Pathward isn't actually a bank account you can access. It's more like a temporary holding station that H&R Block uses to collect their fees before sending your refund to your real bank account. Think of it as: IRS sends refund ā Pathward takes H&R Block's cut ā remainder goes to your bank. To track your refund status, you'll want to check: ⢠Your H&R Block online account (look for "Check Refund Status" or "E-file Status") ⢠The IRS "Where's My Refund" tool at irs.gov (this is usually the most accurate) The IRS tool will show when they've sent your refund, and then you typically wait 2-4 business days for Pathward to process everything and send the money to your actual bank account. Don't feel bad about being confused - they really don't explain this process clearly upfront! The fact that you're being proactive about tracking everything shows you're doing great. Once you get through this first tax season, it'll all make much more sense for next year. You've got this! š
Felix Grigori
One important thing nobody has mentioned - you need to be super careful about the pro-rata rule if you have ANY existing pre-tax money in ANY traditional IRA accounts (including SEP or SIMPLE IRAs). The backdoor Roth strategy really only works cleanly if you have zero pre-tax IRA money anywhere.
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Felicity Bud
ā¢THIS! I got hit with an unexpected tax bill because I forgot about an old 401k that I had rolled into an IRA years ago. The pro-rata rule made my "tax-free" conversion partially taxable.
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Ella Russell
Great question about timing! I went through this exact scenario last year and here's what I learned: You're correct that you can report the full $7,000 on Form 8606 even if you only have a 1099-R for $4,000 at the time you file. The IRS expects you to report ALL contributions made for the tax year, regardless of when you received the supporting documents. A few key points to keep in mind: 1. Make sure to designate your March contribution as a "2024 contribution" when you make it (your broker should ask) 2. Keep detailed records of both contributions with dates and amounts 3. The 1099-R you receive for the March conversion will be for tax year 2025, so you'll report that conversion on next year's return I'd recommend making your additional contribution and conversion before mid-March to give yourself some buffer time before the 4/15 deadline. Also, double-check that you don't have any other traditional IRA balances that could complicate the pro-rata calculation. The key is being consistent and thorough with your record-keeping - the IRS cares more about accurate reporting than perfect timing of tax documents.
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Zainab Ahmed
ā¢This is really helpful, thank you! I'm new to backdoor Roth contributions and was getting overwhelmed by all the timing considerations. Your point about designating the March contribution specifically for 2024 is crucial - I hadn't realized that was something I needed to explicitly tell my broker. Quick follow-up question: when you say "keep detailed records," what specific information should I be tracking beyond just dates and amounts? Should I be keeping screenshots of my broker confirmations or is there other documentation the IRS typically wants to see?
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