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Aisha Rahman

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Great question about the "placed in service" date! For tax purposes, the IRS considers equipment "placed in service" when it's ready and available for use, not necessarily when you become proficient with it. So if your equipment was functional and ready to use in July (even though you were still learning), that would likely be your placed-in-service date for depreciation purposes. However, the fact that you didn't start generating revenue until November could still support treating some of your July-September expenses as startup costs under the organizational expense rules. This is where it gets a bit nuanced - equipment itself is always capital expenditure, but things like training materials, initial supplies, or professional development related to learning the equipment could potentially fall under startup costs. I'd definitely recommend documenting both dates: when you purchased the equipment, when it was delivered/installed and ready for use, and when you first used it for business purposes. Having this timeline will help your tax preparer make the best determination for your specific situation. Given the complexity here, especially for your first year, it might be worth a consultation with a tax professional who can review your specific timeline and expenses to optimize your deductions.

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This is exactly the kind of detailed guidance I was looking for! I never realized there was a difference between when equipment is "ready for use" versus when I actually became competent with it. So my July delivery date would be the placed-in-service date for the equipment depreciation, but my training costs and initial supply purchases during that learning period could still potentially qualify as startup costs. I think you're absolutely right about getting a professional consultation for this first year. There are so many nuances here that I don't want to mess up. Do you happen to know if most tax professionals are familiar with these startup cost distinctions for small manufacturing businesses, or should I look for someone with specific experience in this area?

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Yara Nassar

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Most CPAs and enrolled agents should be familiar with startup cost rules, but you're right to look for someone with small business experience, especially manufacturing. When you're shopping for a tax professional, ask specifically about their experience with: 1. Section 179 expensing vs. startup cost treatment 2. Manufacturing equipment depreciation 3. Home-based business deductions 4. First-year business tax optimization A good tax pro will want to review your timeline of expenses and help you decide between different depreciation methods (Section 179, bonus depreciation, or regular MACRS) based on your income situation and future business plans. Also, don't forget to ask about quarterly estimated tax payments for next year - since you'll likely have much more income in 2024 than the $130 you had in 2023, you'll want to plan ahead to avoid underpayment penalties. One more thing - make sure to get organized records of ALL your expenses from when you started planning the business through now. Even small things like business cards, initial marketing materials, or professional association memberships can add up and qualify as deductible startup costs or business expenses depending on timing.

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Roger Romero

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This thread has been incredibly educational! As someone just starting to navigate small business taxes, I really appreciate how everyone broke down the differences between startup costs, capital expenditures, and regular business expenses. @e702dc8202f6 Your point about quarterly estimated taxes is something I hadn't even considered yet - definitely need to start planning for that since I'm hoping to scale up significantly this year. One thing I'm curious about - for those of you who mentioned using tax software vs. professionals, what's been your experience with the learning curve? I'm wondering if it's worth trying to understand all these distinctions myself or if the complexity justifies paying for professional help, especially in these early years.

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Yuki Ito

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Thanks for all the helpful responses everyone! Just wanted to give a quick update - I went ahead and used my husband's SSN (primary taxpayer) in Direct Pay and the payment went through smoothly. Got a confirmation number and everything. I really appreciate everyone clarifying that even though I'm the one earning the freelance income, the IRS system only recognizes the primary taxpayer's info for joint filers. That makes total sense now that I understand how their computer systems work. I'm definitely going to look into some of the tools mentioned here (like taxr.ai) to help me calculate the right amounts for future quarters. I've been kind of winging it with estimated payments and want to make sure I'm not underpaying and getting hit with penalties. One last question - should I be making these payments every quarter even if my freelance income varies a lot month to month? Sometimes I have big projects and sometimes barely anything. Is it better to estimate conservatively and potentially overpay, or try to match the actual income more precisely each quarter?

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Great question about the quarterly timing with variable income! I'm in a similar boat with inconsistent freelance work. From what I've learned, it's generally better to err on the side of paying a bit more each quarter rather than risk underpayment penalties. The IRS safe harbor rule says if you pay at least 100% of last year's tax liability (or 110% if your AGI was over $150k), you won't get hit with penalties even if you end up owing more. So one strategy is to calculate your estimated payments based on that safe harbor amount, then any extra you owe from higher-than-expected income just gets paid with your regular tax return. That way you're covered penalty-wise, and if you have a really good year income-wise, you're not scrambling to make huge catch-up payments in Q4. Plus any overpayments just become a refund or can be applied to next year's taxes.

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One thing I'd add to the safe harbor discussion - you can also use the "annualized income installment method" if your freelance income is really sporadic throughout the year. This lets you calculate each quarterly payment based on your actual income for that specific period, rather than spreading an annual estimate evenly across four quarters. It's more paperwork (you'll need to file Form 2210 with your return), but it can save you money if most of your income comes in just one or two quarters. For example, if you have a huge project in Q3 but barely any income in Q1 and Q2, you could make smaller payments early in the year and a larger payment in Q3 when you actually earned the money. The downside is it's more complex to calculate and track. For most people with moderately variable income, the safe harbor approach that Mateo mentioned is much simpler and still protects you from penalties. But if your income swings are really dramatic (like making 80% of your annual freelance income in one quarter), the annualized method might be worth looking into.

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This is really helpful information about the annualized income method! I had no idea that was even an option. My freelance income is pretty unpredictable - sometimes I'll land a big contract that pays most of my annual income in just one or two months, then have slow periods where I'm barely making anything. The safe harbor method sounds much simpler to manage, but I'm curious about Form 2210. Is that something most people can handle on their own, or do you typically need a tax professional to calculate the annualized installments correctly? I'm comfortable with basic tax stuff but don't want to mess up something complex and end up with penalties anyway. Also, do you know if you can switch methods mid-year? Like if I start with safe harbor payments but then land a huge project in Q3, could I switch to the annualized method for just that quarter and the rest of the year?

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Nia Johnson

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I went through this exact situation last year and wanted to share what worked for me! First, yes - you can absolutely use your wage and income transcript for federal taxes. It's completely legitimate and contains all the information the IRS needs from your W-2. Here's my step-by-step approach that might help: 1) Use the transcript for your federal return - don't stress about this part, it's totally valid, 2) For state withholding, check if you can access your company's employee portal (like ADP, Workday, etc.) - many people forget they can still log in to download prior year tax docs, 3) If that doesn't work, your last paystub from December should have year-to-date state withholding amounts in the YTD column. One thing that really saved me time was printing out IRS Publication 5307 which explains all the transcript codes in plain English. Instead of guessing what "WH-FIT" means, you'll know exactly how each entry maps to your tax forms. Also, remember you can file for an extension using Form 4868 if you need more time - it's automatic and gives you until October. The key is not to panic. You have multiple good options here and thousands of people file using transcripts every year when W-2s go missing. You've got this!

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This is such a comprehensive and helpful breakdown! I'm actually dealing with this exact situation right now and your step-by-step approach is exactly what I needed to see. I've been overthinking this whole process and getting paralyzed by all the different options people have mentioned. Your point about Publication 5307 is spot-on - I downloaded it earlier in this thread and it really does make the transcript much less intimidating once you understand what all those codes mean. The systematic approach of handling federal first with the transcript, then tackling state separately, makes so much more sense than trying to solve everything at once. I'm definitely going to try the employee portal route first thing tomorrow morning. I completely forgot that most companies keep those tax documents accessible for years. And knowing that filing an extension is always an option if I get stuck takes a lot of the time pressure off. Thanks for the reassurance that this is a common situation - it's easy to feel like you're the only person who's ever lost important tax documents! Really appreciate you taking the time to share your experience and the detailed game plan.

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GalaxyGazer

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I just want to add one more resource that helped me tremendously when I was in this exact situation - if you're still having trouble reaching your employer's HR department, try contacting their corporate headquarters directly instead of your local office. I spent weeks trying to get through to my local HR with no luck, but when I called the main corporate number and explained I needed a replacement W-2 for tax filing, they transferred me to their central payroll department who had my W-2 emailed to me within 24 hours. Also, many large employers contract with third-party payroll companies (like ADP, Paychex, or Workday) and these companies often have their own customer service lines that can help current and former employees access tax documents. You can usually find this information on your old paystubs or by googling "[your company name] payroll provider." The wage and income transcript is definitely your best backup plan, but don't give up on getting the actual W-2 if you still have a few days before the deadline. Having the real W-2 will make everything cleaner and give you the state withholding info you need without having to piece things together from multiple sources.

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The Boss

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This is really smart advice about going straight to corporate headquarters! I never would have thought of that approach. I've been dealing with the same runaround from local HR departments - they either don't answer or say they'll call back and never do. The tip about third-party payroll companies is gold too. I just realized my old company used Paychex and I bet I could contact them directly. Even if I can get my transcript working for federal taxes, having the actual W-2 would definitely make the whole process cleaner and solve that state withholding puzzle in one shot. I'm going to try calling the corporate route first thing Monday morning. Sometimes the simplest solutions are the ones we overlook when we're stressed about deadlines. Thanks for sharing what worked for you - it's giving me hope that I can still get the real documents instead of having to piece everything together!

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Just wanted to add my experience as someone who was equally confused about this last year! The motor vehicle excise tax is indeed deductible on Schedule A Line 5c, and I can confirm that keeping those receipts is crucial. One tip that helped me: when you're looking at your excise tax bill, make sure it actually shows the calculation based on your vehicle's value. Some towns are better than others at clearly showing this breakdown. If your bill just shows a total amount without explanation, you might want to call your town's tax assessor office to get a detailed breakdown - the IRS wants to see that it's truly a value-based tax. Also, if you're new to itemizing, don't forget to compare your total itemized deductions to the standard deduction ($13,850 for single filers in 2023). Sometimes even with legitimate deductions like vehicle excise tax, you might still be better off taking the standard deduction. But it's definitely worth calculating both ways to see which gives you the bigger benefit! The fact that you're asking these questions shows you're being thorough, which is exactly the right approach for your first time itemizing.

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This is really helpful advice, especially the tip about calling the tax assessor's office if the breakdown isn't clear on the bill! As someone who's completely new to all this tax stuff, I'm wondering - how do you actually calculate whether itemizing is better than the standard deduction? Is there a simple way to add up all your potential deductions first before deciding which route to take?

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Zara Ahmed

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@Carlos Mendoza Great question! The easiest way is to make a simple list of all your potential itemized deductions first. For 2023, you d'add up: - State and local income taxes Line (5a -) Personal property taxes like vehicle excise tax Line (5c -) Mortgage interest Line (8a -) Charitable contributions Line (11 -) Medical expenses over 7.5% of your income Line (4 Once) you have that total, compare it to the standard deduction $13,850 (for single, $27,700 for married filing jointly in 2023 .)If your itemized total is higher, then itemizing saves you more money. Most tax software will actually do this calculation automatically and recommend whichever gives you the bigger deduction. But doing the math yourself first helps you understand whether it s'even worth gathering all those receipts and documentation for itemizing! In many cases, unless you have significant mortgage interest or made large charitable donations, you might find the standard deduction is still better even with legitimate deductions like vehicle excise tax.

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Raj Gupta

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As a tax professional, I can confirm that motor vehicle excise tax is indeed deductible on Schedule A Line 5c as a personal property tax, provided it's based on the vehicle's value rather than weight or a flat fee. What I'd add to this great discussion is that you should also check if your state offers any credits or deductions that might interact with this federal deduction. Some states have tax credit programs that could affect how you handle these payments. Also, since this is your first time itemizing, I'd recommend keeping a dedicated folder (physical or digital) for all your Schedule A documents throughout the year - not just the vehicle excise tax receipt, but also charitable donation receipts, medical bills, mortgage interest statements, etc. This makes tax time much less stressful when you have everything organized in one place. The advice about comparing itemized vs. standard deduction is spot on. Many first-time itemizers are surprised to find that even with several legitimate deductions, the standard deduction still comes out ahead. But it's always worth calculating both ways, especially if you have significant mortgage interest or made substantial charitable contributions during the year.

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Emma Davis

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This is such valuable advice from a tax professional! I'm definitely going to start that dedicated folder system you mentioned - I can already tell that keeping everything organized throughout the year will save me so much headache next tax season. One follow-up question: when you mention checking for state credits or deductions that might interact with the federal deduction, are you talking about situations where claiming something on your federal return might affect your state taxes? I want to make sure I'm not missing anything or accidentally creating problems on my state return by deducting the vehicle excise tax federally. Also, thank you for confirming the value-based requirement - my town's bill clearly shows the calculation based on my car's assessed value, so I feel confident now that it qualifies for the deduction.

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2025 IRS Refund Schedule: Jan 27 Start, 10 Days for Direct Deposit, 17 Days for Paper Checks (EITC/CTC Delays Until March)

Finally got the official 2025 refund schedule dates from my tax pro and wanted to share with everyone who's wondering when they might get their refund. The IRS starts accepting returns January 27th, 2025 this year. Here's the full schedule I received: ``` If the IRS Accepts an Then Direct Deposit E-Filed Return By: refund may be received as early as 10 days after e-file accepted. (E-filed, but paper check mailed apx. 1 week after that): The IRS started accepting returns on Jan. 27, 2025. Jan. 27, 2025 Feb. 7 (Feb. 14)** Feb. 3 Feb. 14 (Feb. 21)** Feb. 10 Feb. 21 (Feb. 28)** Feb. 17 Feb. 28 (Mar. 7)** Feb. 24 Mar. 7 (Mar. 14) Mar. 3 Mar. 14 (Mar. 21) Mar. 10 Mar. 21 (Mar. 28) Mar. 17 Mar. 28 (Apr. 4) Mar. 24*** Apr. 4 (Apr. 11)*** Mar. 31*** Apr. 11 (Apr. 18)*** Apr. 7*** Apr. 18 (Apr. 25)*** Apr. 14*** Apr. 25 (May 2)*** ``` ** = Returns with EITC or CTC may have refunds delayed until March to verify credits. I noticed the pattern here is that direct deposits seem to come about 10 days after e-file acceptance, with paper checks taking about another week after that. For example, if your return is accepted on January 27th, you might see your direct deposit by February 7th, but if you're getting a paper check, it'll be more like February 14th. Has anyone already filed and received their refund based on this schedule? Are these dates actually accurate? My tax pro seemed pretty confident about these timeframes, but I know the IRS can sometimes have delays that aren't reflected in these official schedules. Also, has anyone dealt with the EITC or CTC delay before? Wondering how long those actually take in practice compared to the March estimate they're giving.

Jamal Carter

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anyone else notice how the dates are actually better than last year? usually theres like a 21 day wait but these are showing 10-14 days

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Mei Liu

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its bc they upgraded their systems finally. bout time tbh

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Thanks for sharing this detailed schedule! As someone who's been through the tax refund waiting game multiple times, I appreciate having concrete dates to work with. One thing I'd add is that even with these official timeframes, it's worth checking your "Where's My Refund" tool on the IRS website regularly since individual circumstances can still cause delays beyond what's shown here. For those with EITC/CTC, the March delay is frustrating but it's actually mandated by the PATH Act - they legally have to hold those refunds until mid-February before they can even start processing them, so March is unfortunately realistic. Also heads up that if you're claiming any new credits or deductions this year, or if there are any discrepancies with prior year info, you might see additional delays even beyond these schedules. The IRS has definitely been more thorough with their reviews lately.

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Kylo Ren

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Really appreciate you mentioning the PATH Act - I had no idea that was why EITC/CTC refunds get delayed! That actually makes me feel better knowing it's a legal requirement and not just the IRS being slow. Do you know if there's any way to track the status once they start processing those credits in mid-February, or do we just have to wait until March to see any movement?

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