I went through something similar last year and here's what worked for me. The most important thing is to understand that as the custodial parent, you have the strongest legal claim to your children as dependents, even with the grandmother living in the same house. First, file your taxes as early as possible in January. The IRS doesn't actually give preference to who files first, but if your return is already processed, it makes things much cleaner. For the grandmother situation specifically - since you live together, you'll need to be able to prove you provide more than 50% of your children's total support. Start documenting everything NOW: keep receipts for groceries (estimate the portion for your kids), their clothing, medical expenses, school supplies, etc. Even if grandma pays utilities, if you're covering the majority of kid-specific expenses plus your share of housing, you should easily meet the support test. The father has zero legal ground to stand on since the kids haven't lived with him since 2012. The IRS requires children to live with the claiming parent for more than half the year. I'd suggest having honest conversations with both of them about your intentions to claim the kids. Sometimes people don't realize they're not legally entitled to claim children, and a polite explanation can prevent the whole mess. With grandma, maybe you can work out an arrangement where you contribute more to household expenses with part of your refund. If anyone does file claiming your kids, don't panic. File a paper return with your documentation, and the IRS will apply their tiebreaker rules - which strongly favor you as the biological parent who lives with the children.

I understand how stressful this situation must be! You're dealing with multiple people who might try to claim your children, but the good news is that as their custodial parent, you have the strongest legal position. Here's my advice as someone who's navigated similar family tax issues: **Immediate steps:** 1. **Start documenting everything NOW** - Keep receipts for groceries (even a rough estimate of what goes to feeding your kids), their clothing, medical bills, school expenses, etc. Even though you live with grandma, if you're providing the majority of your children's support, you have the right to claim them. 2. **Have those difficult conversations** - Talk to both the father and grandmother before tax season hits full swing. For the father, explain that since the kids haven't lived with him since 2012, he legally cannot claim them under IRS rules. For grandma, acknowledge that you appreciate her help but as their parent, you need these tax benefits to continue supporting them. 3. **File early** - The IRS usually starts accepting returns in late January. Get your return prepared and submit it as soon as possible. **If disputes arise:** Don't panic if someone else files first. You can still file a paper return claiming your children, and the IRS will apply their tiebreaker rules. As the biological parent who lives with and supports the children daily, you should prevail in any dispute - just make sure you have that documentation ready. Consider getting a signed statement from grandma acknowledging that you're the primary provider for the kids. This could be invaluable if questions come up later. You've got this - just stay organized and proactive!

This thread has been incredibly helpful! As someone who's been buying and selling vintage collectibles for a few years now, I can confirm everything that's been said about the collectible tax rates. One additional point that might be useful - if you're dealing with multiple collectibles sold throughout the year, you might want to consider bunching your sales into years when your overall income is lower. Since collectibles are taxed at your ordinary income rate (capped at 28%), strategic timing can really make a difference. For example, I had a big bonus year where I was temporarily in the 32% bracket, so I held off selling some collectibles until the following year when I was back down to 24%. Saved me 4% on the gains, which added up to real money. Also, if you're serious about collecting comics or other items as investments, consider keeping a detailed log of market research, time spent researching purchases, and any educational materials you buy about collecting. While you can't deduct these as business expenses if you're treating it as investment activity, having detailed records shows the IRS that you're approaching this seriously as an investment rather than just a hobby.

Great question about comic books! I've been collecting and occasionally selling comics for about 5 years now, and your understanding is spot on. The collectible capital gains rate is indeed your ordinary income tax rate capped at 28%. One thing I'd add that hasn't been mentioned much - make sure you understand what constitutes your "basis" in the comics. It's not just what you paid for the comic itself. You can also include: - Shipping costs when you bought them - Sales tax you paid - Professional grading fees (CGC, CBCS, etc.) - Authentication costs - Any restoration work (though this can be tricky territory) I learned this the hard way when I sold a key Silver Age comic last year. I had paid $800 for it, plus $50 shipping, $30 grading fee, and about $15 in sales tax. So my basis was $895, not just the $800 purchase price. When I sold it for $1,400, I only owed taxes on $505 in gains instead of $600. Also, keep digital copies of all your receipts and document the condition when you bought them. The IRS can be pretty particular about collectibles since values are often subjective. Having a paper trail makes everything much smoother if you ever get audited. Good luck with your comic collecting adventure! The vintage market has been really strong lately.

Just wanted to add another perspective on the business structure aspect. Since your wife would be the owner of the B&B as a NZ citizen, you'll also need to consider whether this creates any issues with US gift tax rules if you're contributing funds to a business you don't legally own. Also, regarding the rental property in the US - even if you're breaking even cashflow-wise, don't forget that you'll be taking depreciation deductions which will reduce your basis. When you eventually sell, you'll have depreciation recapture to deal with, which is taxed as ordinary income up to 25%. This could create a significant tax bill down the road that many people don't anticipate. One more thing to research: NZ has something called the "bright-line test" for property investments, which could affect the tax treatment of your B&B if you sell within a certain timeframe. Since you're planning to reinvest profits initially, this might not be immediate concern, but it's worth understanding for long-term planning. The international tax situation is definitely complex, but with proper planning and the right resources, it's totally manageable. Good luck with the move!

One more consideration for your move to NZ - make sure you understand the timing of when you become a New Zealand tax resident. NZ uses a combination of factors including days present, permanent place of abode, and center of vital interests. This matters because it determines when you start being subject to NZ tax on your worldwide income. If you're keeping your US house initially and spending time setting up in NZ, you might have a period where both countries could claim you as a tax resident. The US-NZ tax treaty has tie-breaker rules, but it's something to plan for carefully. Also, since you mentioned potentially applying for NZ citizenship eventually, be aware that this could complicate your US tax situation if you ever want to renounce US citizenship down the road. The IRS has an "exit tax" (covered expatriate rules) that can be quite punitive for high-net-worth individuals, and they look at your net worth and tax compliance history over the 5 years before expatriation. Not saying you'd want to renounce, but it's good to understand all the long-term implications as you make these decisions. The expat tax world has lots of moving pieces that interact in unexpected ways!

This thread has been incredibly helpful! As someone who just started doing gig work myself, I wanted to add one more resource that's been a lifesaver for me - the IRS Publication 334 (Tax Guide for Small Business). It's free on the IRS website and has a whole section specifically about self-employment income and deductions. What I found most useful is that it explains exactly what records you need to keep and for how long (spoiler: keep everything for at least 3 years). It also has examples of legitimate business deductions for delivery drivers that I hadn't thought of, like car washes if you clean your car specifically to maintain a professional appearance for customers. One thing I wish someone had told me earlier - consider opening a separate checking account just for your gig work earnings and expenses. It makes tracking so much easier come tax time, and if you ever get audited, having that clear separation between personal and business finances looks really professional to the IRS. Some banks even offer free business checking accounts for low-volume businesses. Also, for anyone worried about the complexity of filing taxes with gig income - TurboTax, FreeTaxUSA, and other tax software have specific sections for gig workers that walk you through everything step by step. You don't need to be a tax expert to get it right!

I'm jumping into this conversation as someone who just went through this exact situation last tax season! The confusion about the $400 vs $600 thresholds is so common among new gig workers. Here's what I learned the hard way: you're absolutely right that Doordash only sends a 1099-NEC when you hit $600, BUT the IRS still expects you to report all income regardless. The $400 threshold for self-employment tax is completely separate from the 1099 reporting requirement. At $342.50, you're currently under both thresholds, so technically you wouldn't need to file for self-employment tax purposes if this is your only income. However, I'd strongly encourage you to start tracking everything now - earnings, miles, expenses - because it's incredibly easy to cross $400 without realizing it, especially if you pick up any other gig work. I made the mistake of not tracking my miles properly when I first started, thinking I'd stay under the threshold. Ended up going over $400 by December and had to scramble to reconstruct my mileage records. Trust me, it's much easier to track from day one than to try to piece it together later! Also keep in mind that even if Doordash doesn't report your earnings to the IRS via 1099, they still have records of all payments made to you. During an audit, the IRS can request those records directly from the company. It's always better to be proactive about tax compliance, especially since proper deduction tracking often means you'll owe less (or even get money back) than you expect.

I'm an accountant and handle this situation all the time with clients. Here's a simple checklist for unused LLCs: Federal: If single-member (disregarded entity), no separate federal filing needed. If multi-member or elected corporate taxation, file returns showing zero activity. State Income Tax: Varies dramatically by state. Some require returns regardless of activity. State Franchise/Privilege Tax: Many states charge these regardless of income (CA's $800 minimum is notorious). Annual Reports: Often required by Secretary of State offices regardless of activity. Honestly, between state fees, franchise taxes, and filing requirements, an unused LLC usually costs more trouble than it's worth. I typically advise clients to dissolve unused entities and form a new one when they're actually ready to start the business.

As someone who went through this exact situation last year, I'd definitely recommend getting professional advice before making the dissolution decision. I almost dissolved my unused LLC thinking it was just costing me money, but my accountant pointed out that if I planned to start any business in the next few years, keeping it might actually save money in the long run. Formation fees, registered agent costs, and the time to set everything up again can add up. Plus, some states have "shelf life" restrictions where you can't reuse certain business names for a period after dissolution. If you're truly done with business plans, dissolve it. But if there's any chance you'll want to start something in the next 2-3 years, it might be worth keeping and just staying compliant with the minimal requirements.