IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

I work in tax preparation and see this exact issue multiple times every tax season. Box 7 errors are surprisingly common, especially in larger companies with complex payroll systems. The $1,450 amount you're seeing could be from several sources that got miscoded: - Year-end bonuses or profit sharing - Overtime premium pay - Attendance bonuses - Safety incentives - Holiday pay differentials Here's what I'd recommend: First, gather all your paystubs from 2024 and look for any special payments that add up to $1,450. Second, if HR continues to ignore you, escalate to your manager or their supervisor - payroll errors affect the company's tax reporting too, so they should take it seriously. If you absolutely can't get a corrected W-2 before filing, you'll need to file Form 4852 (Substitute for Form W-2) explaining the error. But honestly, most employers will issue a W-2c once they understand the problem affects their own tax compliance. Don't give up on getting this fixed - it's worth the effort for accurate tax reporting.

0 coins

This is really helpful advice! I'm dealing with a similar situation where my W-2 shows tips but I work in IT. Quick question - if I do end up having to file Form 4852, will that delay my refund or cause problems with the IRS? I'm worried about making things more complicated than they need to be, but it sounds like getting the correct reporting is important for future tax years too.

0 coins

Jace Caspullo

β€’

I've been dealing with payroll issues for years as an HR coordinator, and Box 7 errors are unfortunately more common than they should be. What often happens is that payroll systems have default coding that doesn't get updated when new types of compensation are added. For your $1,450 amount, I'd suggest checking if you received any of these payments that commonly get miscoded: - Safety bonuses or perfect attendance awards - Referral bonuses for bringing in new employees - Training completion incentives - Equipment or uniform allowances that should have been reported differently One thing that might help speed up your HR response: mention that incorrect Box 7 reporting can affect the company's quarterly tax filings and potentially trigger IRS inquiries. Sometimes framing it as a compliance issue rather than just an employee concern gets faster action. If you're filing soon and can't wait for a corrected W-2, definitely don't just ignore the Box 7 amount or try to move it to Box 1 on your return. The IRS matching system will catch that immediately. Document your attempts to get it corrected and be prepared to explain the situation if the IRS contacts you later.

0 coins

Vince Eh

β€’

This is such valuable insight from someone who actually deals with payroll systems! I never would have thought that safety bonuses or attendance awards could get miscoded as tips. That actually makes me wonder if my $1,450 might be from the perfect attendance bonus we got at the end of last year - the timing would match up perfectly. I'm definitely going to mention the compliance angle when I follow up with HR tomorrow. Do you think it's worth also CC'ing my manager on the email to add some pressure, or should I give HR one more chance to respond first?

0 coins

Micah Trail

β€’

I went through this exact same frustration last month! The IND-032-04 error is so confusing when you first get it. What ended up working for me was using the AGI method that @Elijah Jackson mentioned - just took the last 5 digits of my spouse's 2023 AGI and used that as the PIN. One tip that might help: if you're using tax software like TurboTax or H&R Block, sometimes they'll show you what AGI they're pulling from your prior year return when you import it. That way you can double-check you're using the right number before submitting. Also want to echo what others said about keeping better records - I now write down our PINs in a secure note in my password manager right after e-filing each year so this doesn't happen again!

0 coins

Amina Toure

β€’

Great advice about using the password manager! I wish I had thought of that before running into this mess. The AGI method really seems to be the go-to solution for most people based on all these responses. It's crazy how such a simple fix can save so much time and stress. Definitely going to start keeping better records of this stuff going forward - lesson learned the hard way! πŸ˜…

0 coins

Had this exact same rejection code last week and it was driving me crazy! What finally worked for me was a combination of suggestions I found here. First tried the AGI method (last 5 digits of spouse's prior year AGI) which didn't work for us, then I remembered my spouse actually saved their PIN in our shared Google Drive folder where we keep all our tax documents. Found it in a file called "2023 Tax Info" - might be worth checking if you have any shared folders or cloud storage where tax stuff gets saved. If you can't find it anywhere and the AGI method doesn't work, I'd definitely recommend the callback services people mentioned here rather than trying to get through to IRS directly. Spent 3 hours on hold myself before giving up. Sometimes having a fresh set of eyes look at your specific situation makes all the difference. Good luck!

0 coins

Sofia Morales

β€’

This is such a helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar PIN issue right now and feeling so overwhelmed by all the different solutions. The Google Drive tip is genius - I never would have thought to check our shared cloud storage. We definitely have a "Tax Docs" folder that might have this info saved. Quick question for anyone who's been through this - if the AGI method doesn't work and I can't find the original PIN anywhere, how long does it typically take to get through to someone at the IRS who can actually help reset it? I keep seeing mixed experiences with wait times and I'm trying to figure out if it's worth attempting or if I should just go straight to one of those callback services people are mentioning. Also @Zoe Christodoulou - when you found the PIN in your Google Drive, was it clearly labeled or did you have to dig through multiple files? Trying to figure out where my spouse might have saved this info! 🀞

0 coins

Sofia Torres

β€’

I've been following this discussion as someone who's dealt with similar virtual asset sales, and wanted to add a few practical points that might help. First, regarding the original question about CSGO knives - everyone's right that these are treated as capital assets, not collectibles. But one thing to consider is the complexity of establishing your exact cost basis if you've done any case openings or trade-ups to get the knife. If you unboxed it from a case, your basis would include the case cost plus the key cost, not just the current market value. Also, for anyone selling high-value items ($10k+), you might want to consider whether this pushes you into the Net Investment Income Tax (NIIT) territory, which adds an additional 3.8% on top of capital gains for high-income earners. One final tip - if you're sitting on multiple valuable items, consider your overall tax situation before selling everything at once. Sometimes it makes sense to realize gains gradually over multiple years, especially if you're near the thresholds between different capital gains brackets or if you have other investments that could generate offsetting losses. The virtual asset space is still evolving rapidly from a tax perspective, so keeping good records now will save you headaches later as the IRS guidance becomes more specific.

0 coins

Keisha Williams

β€’

This is such a valuable addition to the discussion! The point about case openings and trade-ups affecting cost basis is something I hadn't fully considered. If someone unboxed a knife from a case they bought, would they also need to factor in the statistical probability/expected value of getting that specific knife, or is it simply case + key cost regardless of the odds? Also, your mention of the NIIT threshold is really important for high-value traders. For those who might not know, that 3.8% kicks in at $200k+ adjusted gross income for singles, so it's definitely worth factoring in if you're dealing with significant gains from virtual assets on top of other income. The gradual realization strategy makes a lot of sense, especially given how volatile the CS market can be. Better to have a planned approach than to panic sell everything at once and potentially hit unfavorable tax brackets.

0 coins

Lucas Lindsey

β€’

This has been such an educational thread! As someone who's been hesitant to sell my own valuable CSGO items because of tax uncertainty, this discussion has really clarified things. One practical question I haven't seen addressed: if you're selling multiple items throughout the year (say, a knife now and some expensive gloves later), do you need to report each transaction separately on Schedule D, or can you aggregate them somehow? I'm wondering about the paperwork burden if someone is actively trading/selling multiple high-value skins. Also, for those mentioning third-party marketplaces - has anyone had experience with the newer platforms that are trying to be more tax-compliant? Some of them claim to provide better transaction records and even tax summaries, which could make reporting easier. The consensus here seems to be that proper documentation is key, regardless of which platform you use. I'm definitely going to start keeping better records of all my virtual asset transactions going forward, even for smaller items. Better safe than sorry when it comes to the IRS!

0 coins

the irs bout to put ur ex in timeout lmaooo

0 coins

Sasha Ivanov

β€’

IRS dont play about dependent fraud 😈

0 coins

Just went through this mess with my baby daddy last month! The IRS will definitely catch it - their system automatically flags duplicate dependents. You'll both get a letter asking for proof. Since you filed first and have custody documentation, you're in a good position. Just make sure you have everything organized: school enrollment, medical records, proof they lived with you more than half the year. The person who can't prove it will have to amend their return and pay back any credits they got. Your ex is gonna learn the hard way that the IRS doesn't mess around with this stuff πŸ’―

0 coins

I can definitely relate to the anxiety you're feeling right now - I went through this exact situation about 18 months ago and it felt like my world was falling apart at the time. But I want to reassure you that this is absolutely resolvable and you have several good options available. The most important thing I learned is that being assigned to a private collection agency doesn't mean you've lost your rights or options with the IRS. In fact, you can request to have your account transferred back to the IRS at any time, and they often offer more reasonable payment terms than the collection agencies do. Here's my advice based on what worked for me: 1. **Call the IRS first, not the collection agency.** The number is 1-800-829-1040. Yes, you'll be on hold for a while, but it's worth it. Tell them you want to discuss options for your tax debt that's been assigned to a collection agency. 2. **Be completely honest about your financial situation.** They'll likely have you complete Form 433-F over the phone, which asks about your income, necessary expenses, and assets. Don't try to hide anything - they can verify most of it anyway, and honesty gets you better terms. 3. **Ask about all your options.** Payment plans, Offer in Compromise, Currently Not Collectible status - make sure you understand what's available based on your specific situation. 4. **File that 2022 return immediately.** Even if you can't pay, filing stops additional failure-to-file penalties from piling up. The collection agency initially wanted $425/month from me, which would have been impossible. When I worked directly with the IRS, they accepted $165/month based on my actual ability to pay. The whole process took about 6 weeks to fully resolve, but the relief was incredible once I had a manageable plan in place. Don't let the fear paralyze you - taking action is the only way forward, and you have more control over this situation than it probably feels like right now.

0 coins

Juan Moreno

β€’

Thank you so much for sharing your detailed experience - this is incredibly helpful! I'm feeling a lot less alone in this situation after reading everyone's responses. Your point about calling the IRS first instead of the collection agency is really interesting. I was assuming I had to work with the collection agency since that's who sent me the letter. I'm curious about the timeline you mentioned - you said it took 6 weeks to fully resolve, but how long after that first call to the IRS did you start seeing actual progress? I'm worried about what happens during that transition period while they're figuring out whether to transfer my account back. Also, when you mention the $165/month payment being based on your "actual ability to pay" - did they give you any guidance on what expenses they consider "necessary" versus optional? I'm trying to prepare for that Form 433-F conversation and want to make sure I'm realistic about what they'll accept. The anxiety is definitely real, but reading all these success stories is giving me the courage to actually pick up the phone tomorrow. Thanks again for taking the time to share your experience!

0 coins

I can answer some of your timeline questions based on my experience! After that first call to the IRS, I actually saw movement pretty quickly - within about a week I received a letter confirming they had received my request to transfer my account back from the collection agency. During the transition period (which was about 2-3 weeks), I continued getting calls from the collection agency, but I just told them a transfer was in progress and they noted it in their system. For the Form 433-F expenses, the IRS uses something called Collection Financial Standards that include national standards for things like food, clothing, personal care, and local standards for housing and transportation based on your area. They're actually pretty reasonable - they allowed my actual rent, utilities, car payment, insurance, groceries, and basic living expenses. What they don't typically allow are things like cable TV, gym memberships, dining out, or other discretionary spending. The key is to be honest and realistic. They can see your bank statements if needed, so don't inflate expenses, but also don't sell yourself short on legitimate necessities. When I was honest about my tight budget, they worked with me to create a payment plan I could actually stick to. One tip: gather a few months of bank statements before you call so you have real numbers for your monthly expenses rather than guessing. It makes the conversation much smoother and shows them you're taking it seriously. You've got this! Making that first call really is the hardest part.

0 coins

Amara Adeyemi

β€’

I'm so sorry you're going through this stress - I completely understand that sinking feeling when you get that letter from the IRS. I went through something very similar about a year ago and want you to know that this situation is absolutely manageable, even though it feels overwhelming right now. Here's what I wish someone had told me from the start: **You are NOT stuck with the private collection agency.** This was the biggest revelation for me. You can call the IRS directly at 1-800-829-1040 and request to have your account transferred back to work with them instead. The IRS often offers much more reasonable payment terms than the collection agencies. A few key things that helped me: 1. **Verify the letter is legitimate first** - make sure it's from one of the four authorized agencies (CBE Group, ConServe, Performant, or Pioneer Credit Recovery). 2. **Don't avoid their calls** - I made this mistake for weeks and it just added to my anxiety. Once I engaged and started asking about options, everything became clearer. 3. **File your 2022 return IMMEDIATELY** - even if you can't pay what you owe. This stops additional failure-to-file penalties from accumulating. 4. **Be honest about your financial situation** - when you talk to the IRS, they'll likely have you complete Form 433-F over the phone. They use standardized allowances for necessary expenses and can often work out a payment plan based on what you can actually afford. The collection agency initially wanted $380/month from me, which was impossible. When I worked directly with the IRS, they accepted $145/month based on my real financial situation. The whole process took about a month to resolve once I stopped avoiding it. You're already taking the right step by reaching out for advice. This is scary but it's resolvable, and you have more options than you realize right now!

0 coins

Julian Paolo

β€’

Thank you so much for this detailed response! Your experience sounds almost identical to what I'm going through right now, and it's incredibly reassuring to hear that you were able to get your monthly payment down from $380 to $145 by working directly with the IRS instead of the collection agency. I'm definitely guilty of the avoidance strategy you mentioned - I've been letting their calls go straight to voicemail because I honestly had no idea what to say or what my options were. Reading all these responses has given me the confidence to actually engage with this situation instead of hoping it will somehow go away. One quick question about the Form 433-F process - when you completed it over the phone with the IRS, did they accept your word on your monthly expenses or did they require documentation like bank statements or pay stubs? I'm trying to prepare for that conversation and want to make sure I have realistic numbers ready. Also, during that month it took to resolve everything, were you still getting calls from the collection agency or did they stop once the IRS started the transfer process? I'm planning to call the IRS first thing tomorrow morning. Thanks again for sharing your experience - it's exactly what I needed to hear to stop feeling so paralyzed by this situation!

0 coins

Mohammed Khan

β€’

When I completed Form 433-F over the phone, the IRS agent mostly accepted my verbal responses for monthly expenses, but they did ask me to email or fax supporting documentation within a few days. I sent them my last two pay stubs and a couple months of bank statements to verify my income and major expenses like rent and utilities. Having realistic numbers ready definitely helped - I'd already calculated my actual monthly expenses before calling, so I wasn't guessing. During the transfer process, I did continue getting calls from the collection agency for about 2-3 weeks. When I answered, I just told them that I had requested my account be transferred back to the IRS and they noted it in their system. The calls became less frequent once that was documented, and they stopped completely once I received official notification that the transfer was complete. One tip for your call tomorrow: try calling right at 8 AM when they open - the wait times are usually shorter in the morning. And don't be discouraged if the first agent you talk to isn't super helpful - sometimes it takes calling back to get someone who really knows the collection transfer process. You're taking exactly the right approach by being proactive about this!

0 coins

Prev1...836837838839840...5643Next