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Does anyone know how to handle Box 19 and 20 if you work remotely? My W-2 shows a local tax for a city I never worked in (just where my company is based). I'm using H&R Block software and it's confusing me.
This is actually a common issue with remote work! Some cities (like Philadelphia, NYC, and Cincinnati) have special rules about taxing employees who work for companies based in their jurisdictions, even if you work remotely. You might be liable for that tax, BUT many cities changed their rules during/after COVID. You should check that specific city's tax department website for their remote work policies.
Great question about Boxes 15-20! These can definitely be confusing for first-time filers. Just to add a few more tips to what others have shared: 1. **Double-check the math** - Make sure Box 16 (state wages) isn't higher than your total wages from Box 1. Sometimes there are legitimate reasons for differences (like state-specific deductions), but it's worth verifying. 2. **Save copies of everything** - Keep your W-2 and any state returns you file. If you have discrepancies later, you'll need these documents. 3. **TurboTax tip** - When you get to the state tax section, TurboTax will automatically import the Box 15-20 info if you're using their W-2 import feature. Just make sure to review what it imports since OCR sometimes makes mistakes. 4. **Reciprocity agreements** - Some neighboring states have agreements where you only pay tax to your resident state even if you work across state lines. Worth checking if this applies to your situation. Don't stress too much - the software will guide you through most of it, and the IRS/state agencies are generally understanding with honest mistakes on first-time returns. Good luck with your filing!
This is really helpful advice! I'm also a first-time filer and didn't know about reciprocity agreements - that could potentially save me from having to file in multiple states. Do you know where I can find a list of which states have these agreements? I'm working in Pennsylvania but live in Delaware, so I'm hoping there might be something in place between those two states.
quick questions - do the payments actually need to match the profitability by quarter or can i just divide my total estimated taxes for the year into 4 equal payments? my s-corp has really seasonal income so some quarters have way more profit than others.
You can do equal quarterly payments based on your annual projected income. That's actually the safest option for most people. The IRS just wants to make sure you're paying throughout the year rather than all at once at filing time.
Great question about S Corp quarterly payments! Just to add some clarity - you're absolutely right to be thinking about this carefully. The key thing to remember is that as an S Corp owner, you wear two hats: employee (if you take a salary) and owner/shareholder. From the business account, you should pay: - Payroll taxes for your salary (employer portion of FICA, unemployment taxes, etc.) - Any business-specific taxes like state franchise fees From your personal account, you should pay: - Estimated quarterly payments for the income tax on your share of the S Corp profits - Your portion of self-employment tax equivalent (though S Corp profits aren't subject to SE tax, which is one of the benefits) Since this is your first profitable quarter, make sure you're also paying yourself a reasonable salary if you haven't been already - the IRS expects S Corp owner-employees to take W-2 wages before distributions. Congrats on the profit, and keep that business/personal separation clean for your records!
This is really helpful! I'm new to S Corps and had no idea about the "two hats" concept. Quick follow-up question - when you mention paying myself a "reasonable salary," how do I figure out what's reasonable? Is there a specific percentage of profits I should be taking as salary versus distributions? I want to make sure I'm not setting myself up for problems with the IRS down the road.
I just went through this whole wash sale nightmare last week. One thing nobody mentioned is that some brokers report wash sales differently on their 1099-B forms. For example, my Schwab statement clearly marked the wash sale adjustment with code "W" and a separate column, but my E*TRADE statement had it buried in the footnotes!
Absolutely true. I had the same issue with TD Ameritrade last year. Their 1099-B format is really confusing for wash sales. Did you figure out where to look on different brokerage statements?
Great point about the different brokerage formats! I've dealt with statements from several brokers and they all seem to handle wash sale reporting differently. Here's what I've learned: **Fidelity**: Look for Box 1g on the 1099-B - they clearly mark wash sale adjustments with a "W" code and show the disallowed loss amount. **Vanguard**: They include wash sale info in Box 1f (adjustment code) and provide detailed explanations in the supplemental information section. **Charles Schwab**: As you mentioned, they use code "W" and have a separate column for wash sale adjustments - probably the clearest format. **Robinhood**: This one's tricky - they often combine multiple transactions and the wash sale adjustments can be hard to track. Look for the "Wash Sale Loss Disallowed" line item. **E*TRADE**: Like you said, often buried in footnotes or shown as an adjustment to cost basis without clear labeling. The key is to look for any codes like "W" or "D" (for disallowed loss) and check both the main form and any supplemental statements. When in doubt, most brokers have customer service that can walk you through reading their specific 1099-B format. Don't feel bad about calling - these forms are genuinely confusing even for experienced investors!
This is incredibly helpful! I've been struggling with my Robinhood statement all week trying to figure out where they put the wash sale information. You're absolutely right that they combine transactions in a confusing way. I found the "Wash Sale Loss Disallowed" line buried on page 3 of my statement, but the amount didn't match what I calculated manually. Did you run into this issue? I'm wondering if Robinhood's automated system sometimes misses wash sales that cross between different but substantially identical ETFs. Also, has anyone had experience with how these different broker formats work when importing directly into tax software versus manual entry? I'm curious if some formats import more cleanly than others.
The advice about estate distributions potentially losing IRA status is crucial - this is actually a common mistake executors make. If the IRA funds were distributed to the estate first, you're likely looking at fully taxable distributions for everyone. However, there's still hope! Some IRA custodians will work with you to establish inherited IRAs even after an estate distribution, especially if you can document that the intent was always to preserve the tax-advantaged status for beneficiaries. The key is acting quickly. For your non-citizen family members, once you get this sorted out, they'll follow the same rules as citizens regarding inherited IRAs. Your father will need annual RMDs plus the 10-year rule, while your sisters just need to empty their accounts within 10 years. Given your San Diego location and that 7.5% HELOC rate, paying off the debt might indeed be the smart move - especially with current market volatility. Just make sure to factor in the combined federal and California tax hit when calculating your net savings. I'd strongly recommend having the executor contact the IRA custodian immediately to see if this can be corrected before any individual distributions are made.
This is really helpful advice, thank you! I'm going to call the executor first thing Monday morning to see what can be done about preserving the IRA status. Do you happen to know if there's a specific timeframe where custodians are more willing to work with beneficiaries on this kind of correction? Also, regarding the California tax implications - would it make sense to consult with a tax professional about potentially making estimated tax payments if we do end up with taxable distributions this year? I'm worried about getting hit with underpayment penalties on top of everything else.
I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now with my late uncle's IRA, and I can share some insights from what I've learned working with both the executor and IRA custodian over the past few months. First, regarding the estate distribution issue - you absolutely need to act fast on this. In my case, we caught it just in time and the custodian (Fidelity) was willing to work with us to establish inherited IRAs even though the executor had initially requested estate distribution. The key was showing clear documentation that all beneficiaries intended to maintain the tax-advantaged status. For your non-citizen family members, I can confirm they'll be treated the same as citizens for inherited IRA purposes as long as they're U.S. tax residents (which green card holders are). Your father's situation with the RMDs plus 10-year rule is correct - it's called being an "eligible designated beneficiary" due to his age. One thing to consider for your California tax situation - if you're planning to pay off that HELOC, you might want to calculate whether taking partial distributions over 2-3 years would keep you in lower tax brackets. California's tax rates can really add up when combined with federal taxes on large distributions. Also, don't forget about potential estimated tax payments if you do take a lump sum - the IRS expects quarterly payments on large windfall income like this.
This is incredibly helpful - thank you for sharing your real-world experience! It's reassuring to know that Fidelity worked with you on this. Do you remember roughly how long the process took once you provided the documentation? I'm also curious about your mention of estimated tax payments - did you end up having to make them quarterly, or were you able to adjust your withholdings from other sources to cover the additional tax liability? I'm trying to figure out the best approach since this inheritance wasn't exactly planned for in my 2025 tax strategy. The partial distribution idea is really smart too. I hadn't fully considered how spreading it over 2-3 years might keep me in lower brackets for both federal and California taxes. That could potentially save more than I'd earn by immediately paying off the HELOC, especially if the tax savings are significant.
Anthony Young
Just a quick tip - if you're planning to use Form 4506 to request your complete return from the IRS, be aware that it can take a LONG time to process. My request took almost 11 weeks last year! If you need this for a mortgage that's closing soon, you might want to discuss alternatives with your lender.
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Charlotte White
ā¢This is true! I had to do this recently and it took forever. One alternative is to ask your mortgage lender if they'll accept a "Record of Account Transcript" instead. My loan officer initially insisted on the full return but when I explained the delay with Form 4506, they checked with their underwriting department and the transcript ended up being sufficient.
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Evan Kalinowski
ā¢Thanks for the heads up. The closing is in 3 months so that might be cutting it close. I'll definitely talk to the lender about alternatives based on all this helpful advice. Seems like getting the full return is way more complicated than I thought!
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Freya Johansen
I'm a tax preparer and see this confusion all the time! Just to clarify what others have mentioned - the IRS website only provides transcripts, not your actual filed return with all the forms and schedules. However, there's one more option that hasn't been mentioned yet: if you filed electronically, your tax software provider is actually required to retain copies of your returns for at least 3 years. Since TurboTax isn't showing your return, try calling their technical support line (not customer service) and specifically ask them to help you access your "archived return" or "prior year documents." Sometimes returns get moved to a different section of your account after the filing season ends. You might also try logging in with a different browser or clearing your cache. If that doesn't work, the Form 4506 route is your best bet for getting the complete return from the IRS, but as others noted, it takes time and costs $43. For urgent situations like mortgage applications, definitely push back with your lender about accepting the Tax Return Transcript - most will accept it once they understand the IRS limitations.
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Elijah O'Reilly
ā¢This is really helpful advice from a professional perspective! I'm curious - when you mention that tax software providers are required to retain copies for 3 years, is that a federal requirement or just industry practice? I've had issues with other tax software companies in the past where they claimed they couldn't access older returns, so I'm wondering if there's a regulation I can reference when pushing back with them. Also, do you know if there's a difference in retention requirements between the major providers like TurboTax, H&R Block, etc.?
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