


Ask the community...
For what it's worth, I've been using different services for extensions vs filing for years. Usually do my extension through the free fillable forms on the IRS website since it's super basic, then use TaxAct for my actual return. Never had an issue. Just make sure wherever you file the extension gives you confirmation that it was accepted by the IRS.
Do you have to create an account with the IRS to use their free fillable forms for the extension? And is it actually free or do they try to upsell you?
You do need to create an account on the Free File Fillable Forms site, but it's pretty straightforward. It's completely free with no upsells - it's the official IRS program. It's basically just the raw forms without any guidance, so the extension form (4868) is simple enough, but some people find the complete tax forms overwhelming without software guidance. For just the extension though, it's a great free option.
Does anyone know if filing an extension affects your refund timing? Like if I'm owed money, will I get it later because I extended?
One thing nobody has mentioned yet - if you're starting mid-year like you are, you might need to adjust your withholding differently than if you were working the full year. The withholding tables assume you're making that income for the entire year, so sometimes you need to account for that. Also, since your husband makes a good chunk on commission, you might want to look at your total tax situation quarterly. My wife and I do a "check-in" every quarter to see if we need to adjust withholding based on how commissions are trending.
That's a really good point about starting mid-year! So should I have more or less withheld since I'm starting in March rather than January? And I like the idea of quarterly check-ins - do you use any particular method to estimate where you stand?
Since you're starting mid-year, you'll have less annual income than your salary rate would suggest for a full year, which could actually result in overwithholding if you don't account for it. However, this might balance out with your husband's income putting your combined total in a higher bracket. For our quarterly check-ins, we use a simple method. We take our year-to-date income from paystubs, multiply our most recent month by however many months are left in the year, add in expected bonuses/commissions, then use a tax calculator to estimate our total tax. Then we compare that to how much tax has been withheld so far plus what will likely be withheld for the remainder of the year. If there's a gap of more than $1,000 in either direction, we adjust our W4s.
Something that tripped me up when I first moved to the US was understanding that the W4 isn't just a one-time thing. You can (and should) update it whenever your financial situation changes! Your best bet is probably to start with the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator tool online. It walks you through everything step by step and gives specific numbers to put on your W4.
The IRS Withholding Estimator is good but I found it super confusing to use. It asks for so much detailed information that I wasn't sure where to find on my paystubs. Does anyone know a simpler alternative?
Just wanted to add that my CPA confirmed this is legit but said to be VERY careful. He's seen several clients get audited specifically for Section 179 vehicle deductions. He said if you claim 100% business use on a vehicle that could reasonably be personal (like a luxury SUV), it's a potential red flag. He recommended keeping these records for EVERY business trip: - Exact mileage - Date and time - Business purpose - Who you met with - What was discussed And get the vehicle's exact weight from the manufacturer's specs, not just the general model info.
Does your CPA think it's better to lease these vehicles instead of buying them outright? I've heard leasing changes the tax treatment somehow.
He actually said it depends on your specific situation. Leasing has different tax treatment - you can deduct the actual lease payments rather than using Section 179 or depreciation. This can sometimes be advantageous if you don't have enough income to utilize the full Section 179 deduction in one year. The luxury auto lease rules can make things more complicated though. For expensive vehicles, the IRS requires an "inclusion amount" that effectively reduces your deduction for leased vehicles above certain thresholds. Definitely something to discuss with your own tax professional based on your specific business needs and financial situation.
Someone PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong, but I think these videos mislead on one big point - you don't actually save the full 30-40% of the purchase price in taxes unless you're in the highest tax brackets. The deduction reduces your taxable income, not your actual tax bill directly. So if you're in like a 24% tax bracket, a $80,000 deduction would save you about $19,200 in taxes (24% of $80,000), not $30,000-40,000 like some videos claim.
Don't forget about depreciation for bigger purchases! I made the mistake of incorrectly categorizing everything my first year. For items over $2,500, you might want to consider Section 179 deduction or bonus depreciation rather than just expensing them outright. For example, that desk you mentioned could potentially be depreciated over 7 years OR you could use Section 179 to deduct it all upfront. Same with expensive computers or other equipment. Also, keep track of any repairs vs. improvements to your home office space. Repairs can generally be deducted immediately (based on your home office percentage) while improvements might need to be depreciated.
Is there a dollar threshold for when something should be depreciated vs just expensed? Like if my desk was only $300, do I still need to depreciate it or can I just deduct it all at once under supplies/furniture?
There's actually a "de minimis safe harbor election" that lets you expense (rather than depreciate) items that cost less than $2,500 per item or invoice. So for your $300 desk, you could absolutely deduct it all at once instead of depreciating it over several years. Many small business owners don't know about this and end up creating unnecessary complexity by depreciating smaller items. For slightly larger purchases, Section 179 expensing is another great option that lets you deduct the full cost of qualifying equipment in the year you put it into service, rather than depreciating it. The limits are quite generous for small businesses (up to $1,160,000 for 2023).
Did your accountant explain the difference between the regular method and simplified method for home office? The simplified method lets you deduct $5 per square foot (up to 300 sq ft) without tracking actual expenses. Might be easier than tracking all those utility percentages!
Simplified method is WAY easier but usually results in a smaller deduction in my experience. I tracked both methods for two years and regular method gave me about $1,200 more in deductions. Depends on your situation though.
Keisha Johnson
One thing nobody mentioned - if you do agree with the CP2000 adjustment, make sure you check if it affects your state taxes too! I made that mistake and ended up getting a similar notice from my state a few months later. Had to pay additional interest because I didn't amend my state return after resolving the federal issue.
0 coins
Dylan Campbell
ā¢Oh man I didn't even think about state taxes! Does anyone know if I need to contact my state tax department proactively or wait to see if they send me something?
0 coins
Keisha Johnson
ā¢It depends on your state, but most states automatically receive information from the IRS about adjustments to federal returns. However, you usually need to be proactive and file an amended state return rather than waiting for them to contact you. In most states, you have a certain timeframe (often 60 or 90 days) after finalizing changes with the IRS to submit an amended state return without additional penalties. If you wait for them to notice and contact you, you'll likely end up paying more in interest and possibly penalties too.
0 coins
Paolo Longo
When you respond to the CP2000, make sure you include ALL documentation they ask for, not just some of it. I made that mistake and it dragged my case out for months because they kept requesting additional info. Even if you think a document isn't relevant, if they ask for it, include it!
0 coins
CosmicCowboy
ā¢Is it better to mail the response or use their online portal if available? I've heard horror stories about mailed documents getting lost.
0 coins