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Double check that you entered your education expenses as "qualified education expenses" specifically. Many tax programs have a separate section for this. On TaxHawk, go to the Education section and look for "Form 8863 Education Credits" - you need to specifically tell it to apply the Lifetime Learning Credit there. Also, even though the LLC is worth 20% of expenses up to $10k (so max $2k), remember that it's a non-refundable credit, meaning it can only reduce your tax liability to zero, but won't give you additional refund beyond that. So if your tax liability before the credit is $817, the credit will just reduce it to $0, not give you the remainder as a refund.
Thank you! I tried going back through the Form 8863 section specifically and I think I found the issue. There was a checkbox asking if my expenses were for "qualified education expenses" that I had missed. After checking that and going through that section again, it's now showing I owe $0 instead of $817! I understand now about the non-refundable part. I wasn't expecting to get money back, just wanted to not owe anything. This is such a relief!
Great to hear you got it figured out! Yes, that checkbox is crucial - it's easy to miss but makes all the difference. The tax software can't apply the credit if it doesn't know your expenses qualify. That's exactly right about non-refundable credits - they can bring your tax liability down to zero but no further. For future reference, if you expect to have tax liability again next year, you might want to consider making estimated tax payments throughout the year since you're self-employed. It can help avoid a surprise bill come tax time, even with credits applied.
Make sure your school is actually eligible for the Lifetime Learning Credit too! I had a similar issue and it turned out the program I was in wasn't at a qualified educational institution according to IRS rules. Check that your school has a Federal School Code and is eligible to participate in federal student aid programs, even if you didn't receive financial aid.
This is a good point. You can check if your school is eligible by looking up its Federal School Code on the FAFSA website. Almost all accredited universities and colleges qualify, but some vocational programs or non-degree programs might not.
You could also consider section 179 deduction for the improvements you made to the yard instead of including it in home office calculation. Things like the special fencing, turf, washing station etc might qualify as business equipment/improvements. Might be a cleaner deduction than trying to include outdoor space in home office square footage.
I hadn't even thought about Section 179 for the yard improvements! Would that be instead of including the square footage in my home office calculation, or could I possibly do both? The improvements cost about $4,800 total.
You generally can't double-dip by claiming the same expenses two different ways. The home office deduction would let you deduct a percentage of all household expenses including utilities, insurance, mortgage interest, etc. based on square footage used for business. If you instead use Section 179 for the improvements, you could potentially deduct the full $4,800 immediately rather than depreciating it over time, but you wouldn't include that outdoor space in your home office square footage calculation. It often comes down to which method gives you the better deduction in your specific situation.
Has anyone used Schedule C for this instead of Form 8829? I've heard the simplified option ($5 per square foot up to 300 sq ft) is easier but obviously doesn't work well for outdoor space.
The simplified option is definitely easier but it's generally not great for this situation. It's capped at 300 sq ft which is probably less than your combined indoor office and outdoor dog area. Plus, as you mentioned, there's no provision for including outdoor space. I'd stick with the regular Form 8829 if you want to include that yard space.
Has anyone here successfully negotiated an Offer in Compromise? I've heard the IRS settles for "pennies on the dollar" but don't know if that's just marketing hype from tax resolution companies.
The "pennies on the dollar" marketing is mostly hype, but Offers in Compromise are legitimate. The IRS accepts about 40% of OICs submitted, but they use a very specific formula: they look at your assets, income, and future earning potential to determine what they call your "reasonable collection potential." It's not about what percentage of the debt you're offering, but whether your offer matches what the IRS calculates they could reasonably collect from you over the remaining collection statute (usually 10 years from assessment). Some people qualify for significant reductions, while others might not qualify at all if they have substantial equity in assets or high income. The key to success is having the OIC properly prepared with thorough documentation of your financial situation. The application (Form 656) requires detailed financial disclosure, and the IRS verifies everything.
Hey OP, just sharing my experience - 4 years unfiled, owed $112K. The BIGGEST mistake I made was trying to handle it myself at first. If I could go back, I would have immediately hired a tax attorney (not just any tax preparer). The attorney was able to: 1) Stop immediate collection actions 2) File my returns strategically to minimize penalties 3) Negotiate penalty abatement (got about 40% removed) 4) Set up a manageable payment plan Cost me about $3,500 for the attorney but saved me at least $25K overall. In your situation with $175K owed, the savings could be much more significant. Just make sure to check credentials after your previous experience!
My bank was asking for my TIN for some savings account paperwork and I gave them my social security number. They said that was correct but then started talking about backup withholding and I got confused. Are those things related??
Another tip: If you have a tax preparer or use tax software like TurboTax or H&R Block, all your tax ID info is usually saved in your account. Might be easier than digging through paper documents if you filed electronically in previous years.
Which tax software do you recommend that's actually affordable? I used FreeTaxUSA last year but wasn't super impressed with how they handled my 1099 income.
Vanessa Figueroa
One thing nobody has mentioned - check if your dad's previous employer correctly calculated his withholding as well. I've seen cases where the first employer didn't withhold enough either, but it wasn't obvious until the combined income pushed into a higher tax bracket. Look at his total federal withholding from the first W-2 and divide by his gross income from that job. If it's less than about 10-12%, that might be part of the problem too. Sometimes the issue isn't just with the new employer but with how both jobs handled withholding.
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Heather Tyson
ā¢That's a good point. I just checked and his withholding from the first job was about 8.5% of his gross income. That does seem a bit low now that you mention it. Could that be contributing to the problem as well?
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Vanessa Figueroa
ā¢Yes, 8.5% is definitely on the low side for federal withholding. For someone making around $38,000, you'd typically expect to see closer to 10-12% withheld for federal taxes, assuming standard deduction and no special circumstances. This confirms that both employers were under-withholding. The first wasn't withholding quite enough, and then the second one withheld almost nothing because of the single paycheck issue. When combined, this created the unexpected tax bill. For 2025, he should definitely update his W-4 with his current employer to request additional withholding - maybe an extra $20-30 per paycheck to make up for the shortfall.
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Abby Marshall
Similar thing happened to my husband last year. The trick is to look at box 2 on both W-2s (Federal income tax withheld) and compare it to the total income. For that small paycheck from the new company, they should have withheld at least $85-100 if they were accounting for his total annual income, but they had no way of knowing about his other job. Something to watch for next time - whenever someone changes jobs, especially late in the year, they should fill out their W-4 to account for the income from the previous job. There's actually a specific worksheet for multiple jobs on the W-4 form now.
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Sadie Benitez
ā¢This is so helpful! My parents have been dealing with the exact same issue and I couldn't figure out why. Dad works at two different places and every year they owe a bit even though both jobs withhold taxes. Now I understand it's because neither employer knows about the other income.
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