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Can't use FreeTaxUSA for my 2024 taxes, what's my next best option?

So I just found out I can't use FreeTaxUSA this year because of my specific tax situation. Last year I used them and everything was smooth, but apparently they don't support some forms I need for 2024. I've got a mix of W-2 income, some side gig 1099 work, and I had to deal with selling some investments after my grandmother passed away (nothing huge, but enough to complicate things). I really liked FreeTaxUSA because it was affordable and straightforward, but now I'm stuck trying to figure out another option that won't cost me an arm and a leg. My taxes aren't super complicated but definitely not simple either. I've heard of TurboTax and H&R Block but they seem expensive. TaxSlayer maybe? I'm open to any recommendations from people who've been in similar situations. My budget is pretty tight right now so I'd prefer something reasonably priced if possible! Any advice would be appreciated.

Don't sleep on OLT.com (OnLine Taxes). It's under $50 for federal + state, and handles investment sales, 1099s, etc. Interface isn't fancy but gets the job done. Been using it for 5 years with similar tax situation to yours.

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Have you used it for reporting inherited stocks? That's the part that's tripping me up with my grandma's investments. Need to make sure I get the cost basis right.

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Yes, I've used it for inherited stocks. It handles the stepped-up basis correctly - there's a specific section where you can indicate the shares were inherited and enter the fair market value on the date of death as your basis. It also has a surprisingly helpful help section that explains the inheritance rules clearly. Way better than some of the more expensive options I tried previously that made this unnecessarily complicated.

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anybody have thoughts on TaxHawk? its basically freetaxusa with a different name... might work for you if youre having specific issues with the freetaxusa interface but still want the same basic system?

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TaxHawk and FreeTaxUSA are actually run by the same company! So if FreeTaxUSA doesn't support certain forms you need, TaxHawk probably won't either. They have identical limitations on which tax situations they support.

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How are Variable Annuities Taxed for a Beneficiary - Question on Transfer vs Rollover

So my uncle passed away last year and had a variable annuity. As the beneficiary, I opened an Inherited Traditional IRA to receive these funds as a transfer from his variable annuity. Here's where it gets messy - the financial company holding the annuity accidentally processed it as a rollover instead of a transfer. Now the IRS has contacted me saying I owe almost $15,000 in additional taxes because rollover amounts get reported as taxable income, while transfers are non-taxable events that don't get reported to the IRS. The financial advisor who handled this transaction initially has since left the company. When I explained the situation to the new advisor, they tried to "fix" it by just changing their internal paperwork from "transfer" to "rollover" to match what was sent to the IRS. But that doesn't solve my tax problem at all! The IRS is saying the entire amount that moved from the annuity to my Inherited IRA (about $68,000) counts as taxable income for the tax year when it was moved. That's the exact difference between what the IRS says my taxable income should be versus what I reported on my return. My question is: If the financial institution corrects their mistake and resubmits the forms to properly show this as a transfer instead of a rollover, would that clear me of this additional tax obligation? If not, what steps should I take to get this corrected? I'm completely stressed out over a mistake that wasn't even mine!

Something to be aware of: if the financial institution already reported the transaction to the IRS as a taxable event using a 1099-R, they are required to issue a corrected 1099-R (often called a 1099-R with the "CORRECTED" box checked). Simply changing their internal paperwork doesn't fix the issue with the IRS. Also, for future reference for anyone inheriting annuities: always be extremely clear about requesting a "direct trustee-to-trustee transfer" not a "rollover" when moving inherited annuity funds. Get confirmation in writing before the transaction processes, and if possible, have the receiving institution initiate the transfer rather than the sending institution.

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Is there a time limit on when a financial institution can issue a corrected 1099-R? My mom's situation happened almost 2 years ago and we're just now discovering the mistake.

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There's technically no specific time limit for a financial institution to issue a corrected 1099-R. They can (and should) correct erroneous information even years later. For your situation with your mom, you generally have 3 years from the original filing deadline to file an amended return to correct mistakes. So even at 2 years out, you still have time to get this fixed. The financial institution may be resistant since it creates extra work for them, but they are obligated to provide accurate tax reporting. Be persistent and escalate to management if needed.

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Has anyone successfully had the IRS waive penalties and interest in a situation like this? I got the financial institution to admit their error, but the IRS is still charging me penalties and interest on the "deficiency" even though they agree I don't owe the base tax anymore.

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Yes, I had success getting penalties (but not all interest) waived by requesting penalty abatement due to reasonable cause. I explained that the error was made by the financial institution, not me, and provided their admission letter. The IRS has discretion here and often waives penalties when you can prove the error wasn't your fault.

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Best business structure: 2-member LLC vs partnership for airport shuttle service?

My husband and I both work full-time jobs, but he's an amazing driver and absolutely loves taking people to and from the airport. We live in a small vacation town where there's literally no Uber service at all. We're thinking about investing in a hybrid vehicle and starting either a partnership or LLC for this side business. I'm trying to figure out whether we'd be better off as an LLC or just a simple partnership for tax purposes. For context, we're estimating maybe $13k in revenue max during our first year, and it would just be the two of us - no employees or anything. What's the smarter business structure for our situation?

Just wanted to add my two cents as someone who's been running a small town transportation business for 3 years. Go with the LLC 100%. I started as a partnership and switched after a passenger threatened to sue when they tripped getting out of my car (nothing came of it, but scared me straight). The tax filing is identical either way (Form 1065), but the peace of mind knowing my house isn't on the line is worth the $100 annual fee my state charges. Also, banks and insurance companies took me more seriously as an LLC - got better rates on commercial insurance too.

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That's really helpful to hear from someone who's already doing something similar! Did you find it complicated to switch from partnership to LLC after you'd already started? I'm worried about setting up something and then having to change it later.

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It wasn't too bad switching from partnership to LLC, but definitely created some extra paperwork I could have avoided by starting with the LLC. I had to formally dissolve the partnership, file new paperwork for the LLC, get a new EIN, open new business bank accounts, and update all my insurance policies and client contracts. The whole process took about a month and cost around $500 including state fees and having my accountant update everything. Would have been much simpler to just start with the LLC from day one. The annual maintenance is super easy though - just a simple form and fee in my state. Your state might be different, so check your secretary of state's website for the specific requirements.

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Has anyone used QuickBooks Self-Employed for a small driving service like this? Trying to figure out if it's worth the subscription vs just using spreadsheets for tracking mileage and expenses.

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I use it for my handyman business and it's great for tracking mileage automatically. The app uses GPS to track your trips and you just swipe business vs personal. At the end of the year it calculates all your mileage deductions automatically. Definitely worth it if you're driving a lot for business.

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Can my wife's entire paycheck be withheld for taxes? Is this normal for variable hourly workers?

My wife is a part-time pharmacist working hourly without benefits. Her schedule varies week to week depending on the pharmacy's needs. This last pay period was really frustrating - she only worked one shift (8 hours) and when her paycheck came, literally ALL of it went to taxes! Nothing left for her actual earnings. Is this normal? Does it make sense that tax withholding would be a fixed amount regardless of how many hours she actually works? I'm so confused. What happens in a situation where she earns LESS than what should be withheld for taxes in a pay period? Will they take more out of future paychecks to make up the difference? Is the pharmacy trying to withhold some yearly calculated amount based on her W-4? We're already on an installment plan with the IRS for last year's taxes (about $6,800 left to pay), so I don't think we can claim any exemption from withholding, right? We definitely have tax liability. It just seems crazy that some weeks she's basically working for free and won't see that money until we file our 2025 taxes next year. Any advice on how to handle this without completely exempting her from withholding?

As someone who works in payroll, I can explain what's happening. Most payroll systems use one of two methods: the aggregate method or the per-period method. With the aggregate method, the system looks at year-to-date earnings and adjusts withholding accordingly. This works better for variable income. With the per-period method, each check is treated separately and "annualized" - so if you work one day, it still withholds as though that's your typical check, resulting in massive over-withholding. Ask your wife's employer which method they use. If it's per-period, she needs to complete a new W-4 that accounts for her ACTUAL expected annual income, not what one check multiplied by pay periods would suggest.

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Thanks for the explanation! Do you know if there's any legal requirement for which method employers use? And would switching to a salaried position solve this problem, or would we still have issues if she took unpaid time off?

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There's no legal requirement for which withholding calculation method employers use - it's usually determined by whatever payroll software they've implemented. Some systems allow changing the method, but many smaller employers are locked into whatever their provider offers. Switching to a salaried position would generally solve this problem since salary typically means consistent paychecks regardless of hours worked (within reason). Even with unpaid time off, most salary calculations are more consistent with withholding. However, part-time salaried positions are relatively uncommon in pharmacy settings. Another option is to ask if they can set up a "minimum withholding" arrangement where taxes never exceed a certain percentage of gross pay.

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My advice - check your wife's paycheck carefully for other deductions. I had this same issue and found out they were also taking healthcare premiums, retirement contributions, and garnishments for student loans all out of one tiny check! I thought it was all taxes but it wasn't.

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This is smart advice! My paycheck once went to zero and I assumed it was taxes, but it turned out they were taking uniform fees, health insurance for the whole month, and a retirement loan repayment all from one small check. Worth investigating all deductions!

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Using Form 8888 to Buy Series I Savings Bonds with Tax Refund - Need Help!

Hey tax community! Could really use some guidance here. Just doing my taxes for 2025 and I've got a pretty big refund coming my way. I want to put a chunk of that money into Series I savings bonds while getting some cash too. Specifically, I'm planning to get $6,500 in Series I bonds and have about $130 deposited straight to my checking account. I believe Form 8888 is what I need, but I'm confused about a few things: 1. If I'm buying savings bonds just for myself (not gifting to anyone), does that mean I only check box 4 on Form 8888? The instructions for boxes 5a and 6a mention checking them if buying bonds for myself, but that seems contradictory. Should I leave 5a and 6a unchecked? 2. For the direct deposit portion - I filled out Section I on Form 8888 with my bank info. On Form 1040, I checked the box by line 35a indicating I'm attaching Form 8888. Do I still need to put my banking details in parts 35b, 35c, and 35d of the 1040? Seems redundant but I don't want to mess this up. 3. For line 35a on the 1040, what amount should I enter? Is it just the $130 (direct deposit amount)? Or should it be $6,630 (bonds + direct deposit)? Or something completely different? Really appreciate any help on this! Don't want to make a mistake and delay getting those bonds.

One thing nobody's mentioned yet - there's a limit to how many Series I bonds you can buy with your tax refund! The max is $5,000 per person per year. So your plan to buy $6,500 in bonds won't work. You'll need to adjust your Form 8888 to only allocate $5,000 to bonds and put the extra $1,500 into your direct deposit.

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Oh wow, thanks for pointing that out! I had no idea there was a $5,000 limit for tax refund bonds. Would've been a huge headache if my return got rejected because of that. I'll definitely adjust my Form 8888 to allocate $5,000 to bonds and the remaining $1,630 to direct deposit instead. Does anyone know if there's any special processing time I should expect when buying I bonds with my refund? Is it slower than a regular refund?

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You're welcome! Glad I could help. From my experience, refunds with I-bond purchases do typically take a bit longer to process - usually 1-2 weeks longer than standard direct deposit refunds. The IRS needs to coordinate with Treasury Direct to create your bonds, which adds some processing time. Last year, my regular refund portion hit my bank account about 3 weeks after filing, but the confirmation email about my I-bonds didn't come until almost 5 weeks after filing. Just something to keep in mind if you're watching for your refund.

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Quick question about buying I bonds through tax refunds - do you need an existing Treasury Direct account first? Or does the IRS set one up for you? I couldn't figure this out from the Form 8888 instructions.

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You don't need a pre-existing Treasury Direct account! When you purchase I bonds with your tax refund through Form 8888, the Treasury will actually mail you paper I bonds. These aren't the electronic bonds you'd get through TreasuryDirect.gov. It's one of the few ways to still get paper savings bonds nowadays.

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