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Just wanted to add my two cents as someone who's been running a small town transportation business for 3 years. Go with the LLC 100%. I started as a partnership and switched after a passenger threatened to sue when they tripped getting out of my car (nothing came of it, but scared me straight). The tax filing is identical either way (Form 1065), but the peace of mind knowing my house isn't on the line is worth the $100 annual fee my state charges. Also, banks and insurance companies took me more seriously as an LLC - got better rates on commercial insurance too.
That's really helpful to hear from someone who's already doing something similar! Did you find it complicated to switch from partnership to LLC after you'd already started? I'm worried about setting up something and then having to change it later.
It wasn't too bad switching from partnership to LLC, but definitely created some extra paperwork I could have avoided by starting with the LLC. I had to formally dissolve the partnership, file new paperwork for the LLC, get a new EIN, open new business bank accounts, and update all my insurance policies and client contracts. The whole process took about a month and cost around $500 including state fees and having my accountant update everything. Would have been much simpler to just start with the LLC from day one. The annual maintenance is super easy though - just a simple form and fee in my state. Your state might be different, so check your secretary of state's website for the specific requirements.
Has anyone used QuickBooks Self-Employed for a small driving service like this? Trying to figure out if it's worth the subscription vs just using spreadsheets for tracking mileage and expenses.
I use it for my handyman business and it's great for tracking mileage automatically. The app uses GPS to track your trips and you just swipe business vs personal. At the end of the year it calculates all your mileage deductions automatically. Definitely worth it if you're driving a lot for business.
As someone who works in payroll, I can explain what's happening. Most payroll systems use one of two methods: the aggregate method or the per-period method. With the aggregate method, the system looks at year-to-date earnings and adjusts withholding accordingly. This works better for variable income. With the per-period method, each check is treated separately and "annualized" - so if you work one day, it still withholds as though that's your typical check, resulting in massive over-withholding. Ask your wife's employer which method they use. If it's per-period, she needs to complete a new W-4 that accounts for her ACTUAL expected annual income, not what one check multiplied by pay periods would suggest.
Thanks for the explanation! Do you know if there's any legal requirement for which method employers use? And would switching to a salaried position solve this problem, or would we still have issues if she took unpaid time off?
There's no legal requirement for which withholding calculation method employers use - it's usually determined by whatever payroll software they've implemented. Some systems allow changing the method, but many smaller employers are locked into whatever their provider offers. Switching to a salaried position would generally solve this problem since salary typically means consistent paychecks regardless of hours worked (within reason). Even with unpaid time off, most salary calculations are more consistent with withholding. However, part-time salaried positions are relatively uncommon in pharmacy settings. Another option is to ask if they can set up a "minimum withholding" arrangement where taxes never exceed a certain percentage of gross pay.
My advice - check your wife's paycheck carefully for other deductions. I had this same issue and found out they were also taking healthcare premiums, retirement contributions, and garnishments for student loans all out of one tiny check! I thought it was all taxes but it wasn't.
This is smart advice! My paycheck once went to zero and I assumed it was taxes, but it turned out they were taking uniform fees, health insurance for the whole month, and a retirement loan repayment all from one small check. Worth investigating all deductions!
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - there's a limit to how many Series I bonds you can buy with your tax refund! The max is $5,000 per person per year. So your plan to buy $6,500 in bonds won't work. You'll need to adjust your Form 8888 to only allocate $5,000 to bonds and put the extra $1,500 into your direct deposit.
Oh wow, thanks for pointing that out! I had no idea there was a $5,000 limit for tax refund bonds. Would've been a huge headache if my return got rejected because of that. I'll definitely adjust my Form 8888 to allocate $5,000 to bonds and the remaining $1,630 to direct deposit instead. Does anyone know if there's any special processing time I should expect when buying I bonds with my refund? Is it slower than a regular refund?
You're welcome! Glad I could help. From my experience, refunds with I-bond purchases do typically take a bit longer to process - usually 1-2 weeks longer than standard direct deposit refunds. The IRS needs to coordinate with Treasury Direct to create your bonds, which adds some processing time. Last year, my regular refund portion hit my bank account about 3 weeks after filing, but the confirmation email about my I-bonds didn't come until almost 5 weeks after filing. Just something to keep in mind if you're watching for your refund.
Quick question about buying I bonds through tax refunds - do you need an existing Treasury Direct account first? Or does the IRS set one up for you? I couldn't figure this out from the Form 8888 instructions.
You don't need a pre-existing Treasury Direct account! When you purchase I bonds with your tax refund through Form 8888, the Treasury will actually mail you paper I bonds. These aren't the electronic bonds you'd get through TreasuryDirect.gov. It's one of the few ways to still get paper savings bonds nowadays.
This is slightly off topic but dont forget that your sister is probably eligible for a Social Security lump sum death benefit of $255. Its not much but its something. She should contact Social Security right away as there are time limits. Also if they were married for at least 9 months she might be eligible for monthly survivor benefits depending on her age.
One more thing to consider - if your sister and her husband had any joint accounts, the basis (original cost) of investments might get a "step up" as of the date of death. This can be SUPER important if they owned stocks or property together. Basically, the deceased's portion gets revalued to what it was worth on the day they died, which can save a ton in capital gains taxes later. Might want to look into this if they had any investments.
Omar Farouk
Something similar happened to me last year. For multiple jobs, you might want to check box 2(c) on your W-4 which is specifically for multiple jobs. Also, have you checked if you qualify for any tax credits? With your income level, you might be eligible for the Earned Income Tax Credit depending on your filing status and if you have any kids.
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Natasha Orlova
ā¢I didn't know about checking that box! Will that really help? And I don't have kids, so I'm not sure about the tax credits. I'm filing as single.
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Omar Farouk
ā¢Yes, checking box 2(c) on the W-4 helps when you have similar-paying jobs. It basically tells your employer to withhold at a higher rate to account for your total income being higher. Even without kids, you might still qualify for EITC depending on your exact income. With your combined jobs totaling around $52,000, you might be just over the limit for a single filer, but it's worth checking. There are also education credits if you're taking any classes, or the Saver's Credit if you've contributed to a retirement account.
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Chloe Davis
I know this doesn't help for this year, but for next year, adjust your W-4! The new W-4 doesn't use allowances anymore (the "0" or "1" system). Instead, you can put an additional amount to withhold on line 4(c). I had this same issue and started having an extra $50 taken from each paycheck, which fixed the problem completely.
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AstroAlpha
ā¢This is what I've been doing for years with multiple jobs. I have them take an extra $100 per paycheck from my main job. I'd rather get a refund than scramble to pay a bill in April!
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